Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

Numerical simulation of solitary wave scattering by a circular cylinder array

The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified.     

Wave run-up on a coaxial perforated circular cylinder

This paper describes a plane regular wave interaction with a combined cylinder which consists of a solid inner column and a coaxial perforated outer cylinder.The outer perforated surface is a thin porous cylinder with an annular gap between it and the inner cylinder.The non-linear boundary condition at the perforated wall is a prime focus in the study;energy dissipation at the perforated wall occurs through the resistance to the fluid across the perforated wall.Explicit analytical formulae are presented to calculate the wave run-up on the outer and inner surfaces of the perforated cylinder and the surface of the inner column.The theoretical results of the wave run-up are compared with previous experimental data.Numerical results have also been obtained:when the ratio of the annular gap between the two cylinders to incident wavelength(b-a)/L≤0.1,the wave run-up on the inner surface of the perforated cylinder and the surface of inner column can partially or completely exceed the incident wave height.     

Wave Runup-Rundown Ampu''''tude on Slopes

This paper gives an overall discussion about water level change on slopes under wave action, including wave runup, wave rundown and wave up-down amplitude, and a suggested formula for their calculation.     

多消浪室开孔沉箱消浪特性的数值模拟研究

本文基于雷诺平均的Navier-Stokes方程和k-ε模型求解湍流流动,采用流体体积法(Volume of Fluid,VOF)追踪自由表面运动,建立无反射波浪数值水槽,对多消浪室开孔沉箱的消浪特性进行数值模拟研究。将单消浪室和多消浪室开孔沉箱反射系数和结构前波面分布的数值分析结果与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证,两者符合良好。利用数值算例,研究多消浪室开孔沉箱的反射特性以及开孔结构附近的速度场和湍流强度分布。分析结果表明:波浪与开孔沉箱相互作用时,涡旋和湍动主要分布在开孔墙和消浪室内部自由表面附近;与单消浪室开孔沉箱相比,多消浪室开孔沉箱可以更有效的耗散波浪能量,降低结构的反射系数。本文分析结果可为开孔沉箱结构的工程设计提供参考依据。     

Runup of solitary waves on a straight and a composite beach

Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and wave gauges have been used to investigate the runup of solitary waves at two different beaches. The first beach is straight with an inclination of 10°, whereas the second is a composite beach with a change in the 10° inclination to 4° at a vertex point above the equilibrium water level. Comparison with numerical simulations using a Navier–Stokes solver with zero viscosity has been performed for the composite beach. Four different amplitudes of incoming solitary waves are investigated.Measurements of the runup show that the composite beach gives a lower runup compared to the straight beach. Furthermore, the composite beach experiences a longer duration of the rundown compared to the straight beach. This is at least partially assumed to be a result of scaling effects, since the fluid above the vertex creates a relatively thinner runup tongue compared to the straight beach scenario.The appearance of a stagnation point at the beach boundary is clearly visible in both the PIV results and the numerical simulation. This stagnation point is originating at the lowermost part of the beach, and is moving upwards with time. It is found that the stagnation point moves faster upwards for the straight beach than for the composite beach. Further, the stagnation point is moving even faster in the numerical simulation, suggesting that the velocity with which the stagnation point moves is influenced by viscous scaling effects.Finally, the numerical simulation seems to capture the physics of the flow well, despite differences in the phase compared to the PIV results. This applies to both the flow field and the surface elevations.     

A Numerical Investigation of the Reduction of Solitary Wave Runup by A Row of Vertical Slotted Piles

To improve the current understanding of the reduction of tsunami-like solitary wave runup by the pile breakwater on a sloping beach, we developed a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM in this study. The Navier Stokes equations were applied to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combined with an LES model to solve the turbulence and a VOF method to capture the free surface. The adopted model was firstly validated with existing empirical formulas for solitary wave runup on the slope without the pile structure. It is then validated using our new laboratory observations of the free surface elevation, the velocity and the pressure around a row of vertical slotted piles subjected to solitary waves, as well as the wave runup on the slope behind the piles. Subsequently, a set of numerical simulations were implemented to analyze the wave reflection, the wave transmission, and the shoreline runup with various offshore wave heights, offshore water depths, adjacent pile spaces and beach slopes. Finally, an improved empirical equation accounting for the maximum wave runup on the slope was proposed by taking the presence of the pile breakwater into consideration.     

Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave radiation by a moving vertical cylinder

In this paper the fully nonlinear potential model based on a finite element method is used to investigate the nonlinear wave motion around a moving circular cylinder. The results for the cylinder in transient motion are compared with the experimental data and a much better agreement than the linear theory is found. Further simulation for a circular cylinder in sinusoidal motion is made. It is found that when the ratio of the cylinder diameter D to the wavelength L is relatively small at a fixed motion amplitude the nonlinear components of the runup on the cylinder surface at the second- and third-harmonic frequencies become more important and this is confirmed by the experimental data. Results for the hydrodynamic force are also provided for a cylinder oscillating in a channel. It is noticed that when the frequency of the cylinder motion in a channel is between the first and the second natural frequencies of the symmetric mode, the time history has components not only at the frequency of the cylinder motion but also at the first natural frequency. The latter remains significant over the period that the simulation is made. This has important implications to model testing. If measurement is to be made at such a frequency it may take long time for the motion to become periodic at the frequency of the cylinder motion.     

Numerical modeling of wave runup and forces on an idealized beachfront house

In this paper, a numerical wave model based on the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) and k–ε equations is used to estimate the impact of a solitary wave on an idealized beachfront house located at different elevations on a plane beach. The locations of the free surface are reconstructed by volume of fluid (VOF) method. The model is satisfactorily tested against the experimental data of wave runup, and the analytical solution of wave forces on vertical walls. The time histories of wave profiles, forces, and overturning moments on the idealized house are demonstrated and analyzed. The variations of wave forces and overturning moments with the elevation of the idealized beachfront house are also investigated.     

不规则波与开孔沉箱相互作用数值模拟

采用三步有限元法对N-S方程进行离散,同时借助CLEAR-VOF方法追踪流体自由表面,利用主动吸收式造波等手段改进了二维不规则波浪数值水槽,使得水槽中的波浪谱与目标靶谱吻合较好。进而建立了不规则波浪与开孔沉箱作用一种新的数值模式,分析研究不规则波作用下开孔沉箱的反射率,并与现有的物模结果和数模结果进行了对比,为不规则波与开孔沉箱作用问题的研究,探求了一种新的数值手段。     

Interaction of cnoidal waves with an array of vertical concentric porous cylinders

An array of large concentric porous cylinder arrays is mounted in shallow water exposed to cnoidal waves. The interactions between waves and cylinders are studied theoretically using an eigenfunction expansion approach. Semi-analytical solutions of hydrodynamic loads and wave run-up on each cylinder are obtained using first approximation to cnoidal waves. The square array configuration of four-legged identical concentric porous cylinder is investigated in present study. Numerical results reveal the variation of dimensionless wave force and wave run-up on individual cylinder with angle of incidence, porosity parameter, spacing between outer and inner cylinders, spacing between concentric porous cylinders and wave parameter. Different mechanism of wave force is found under different range of scattering parameter.     

Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave and N-wave runup on coast

A total variation diminishing Lax–Wendroff scheme has been applied to numerically solve the Boussinesq-type equations. The runup processes on a vertical wall and on a uniform slope by various waves, including solitary waves, leading-depression N-waves and leading-elevation N-waves, have been investigated using the developed numerical model. The results agree well with the runup laws derived analytically by other researchers for non-breaking waves. The predictions with respect to breaking solitary waves generally follow the empirical runup relationship established from laboratory experiments, although some degree of over-prediction on the runup heights has been manifested. Such an over-prediction can be attributed to the exaggeration of the short waves in the front of the breaking waves. The study revealed that the leading-depression N-wave produced a higher runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude, whereas the leading-elevation N-wave produced a slightly lower runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude. For the runup on a vertical wall, this trend becomes prominent when the wave height-to-depth ratio exceeds 0.01. For the runup on a slope, this trend is prominent before the strong wave breaking occurs.     

COMCOT数值模式的介绍和应用

介绍了一个成熟的海啸数值模式-COMCOT模式.COMCOT模式是一个能够模拟海啸产生、传播和增水全过程的基于浅水波方程的有限差分模型.模型采用多层网格嵌套,根据海啸在不同区域的传播特点和要求,分别选用不同的分辨率和计算设置,从而兼顾了模式的精度和计算效率.利用此模式模拟了2006年12月26日台湾南部7.2级地震产生海啸波的传播情况,结果与两个潮位站的海啸波监测数据相吻合.     

Experimental and Theoretical Investigation of Wave Forces on A Partially-Perforated Caisson Breakwater with A Rock-Filled Core

1.IntroductionVertical breakwaters are widely used for harbor and coastline protection in coastal engineering.Recently,perforated breakwaters have been often used in practice as they can effectively reduce thewaveforces actingon,the wave reflectionfromand…     

Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone

In this paper, a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme is applied to study surf zone dynamics. The numerical model solves the 2DH extended Boussinesq equations proposed by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) where nonlinear and dispersive effects are both relevant whereas it solves NSWE equations where nonlinearity prevails. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method allow an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and runup; therefore no empirical (calibration) parameters are necessary. Comparison with laboratory measurements demonstrates that the proposed model can accurately predict wave height decay and mean water level setup, for both regular and solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. The model is also applied to reproduce two-dimensional wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal, showing good agreement with experimental data.     

Third order wave force on axisymmetric bodies

The third order triple-frequency wave load on fixed axisymmetric bodies by monochromatic waves is considered within the frame of potential theory. Waves are assumed to be weak non-linearity and a perturbation method is used to expand velocity potentials and wave loadings into series according to a wave steepness of kA. Integral equation method is used to compute velocity potentials up to second order in wave steepness. The third order triple-frequency wave loads are computed by an indirect method and an efficient method is applied to form the third order forcing term on the free surface quickly. The method can be used to compute third order triple-frequency surge force, heave force and pitch moment on any revolution bodies with vertical axes. The comparison with Malenica and Molin's results is made on surge force on a uniform cylinder, and comparison with experimental results is made on third order surge force, heave force and pitch moment on a truncated cylinder. More numerical computations are carried out for third order forces and moments on a uniform cylinder, truncated cylinders and a hemisphere.     

Wave-induced water table fluctuations,sediment transport and beach profile change: Modeling and comparison with large-scale laboratory experiments

Coastal groundwater systems can have a considerable impact on sediment transport and foreshore evolution in the surf and swash zones. Process-based modeling of wave motion on a permeable beach taking into account wave-aquifer interactions was conducted to investigate the effects of the unconfined coastal aquifer on beach profile evolution, and wave shoaling on the water table. The simulation first dealt with wave breaking and wave runup/rundown in the surf and swash zones. Nearshore hydrodynamics and wave propagation in the cross-shore direction were simulated by solving numerically the two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model and the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. The hydrodynamic model was coupled to a groundwater flow model based on SEAWAT-2000, the latter describing groundwater flow in the unconfined coastal aquifer. The combined model enables the simulation of wave-induced water table fluctuations and the effects of infiltration/exfiltration on nearshore sediment transport. Numerical results of the coupled ocean/aquifer simulations were found to compare well with experimental measurements. Wave breaking and infiltration/exfiltration increase the hydraulic gradient across the beachface and enhance groundwater circulation inside the porous medium. The large hydraulic head gradient in the surf zone leads to infiltration across the beachface before the breaking point, with exfiltration taking place below the breaking point. In the swash zone, infiltration occurs at the upper part of the beach and exfiltration at the lower part. The simulations confirm that beaches with a low water table tend to be accreted while those with a high water table tend to be eroded.     

多消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的迭代解析研究

基于势流理论,对多消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行解析研究。研究中采用开孔墙处的二次压力损失边界条件,可以直接考虑波高对于开孔墙处能量损失的影响。利用匹配特征函数展开法和迭代方法得到当前问题的解析解。收敛性验证表明,迭代计算和级数解均具有良好的收敛性。该解析解的计算结果与分区边界元的数值计算结果一致,并且与已有的试验结果符合良好。通过算例分析,研究开孔沉箱防波堤反射系数的主要影响因素。结果表明：与单消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤相比,多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤可以在更宽的波浪频率范围内保持低反射;增大开孔墙的开孔率,有利于降低多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤的反射系数;当开孔墙的开孔率沿着入射波方向依次递减时,多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤的反射系数较小。本文所建立的解析模型简单可靠,可用于工程初步设计中分析开孔沉箱防波堤的水动力性能。     

Runup of the surface waves of various shapes on a sloping beach

In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone.