Landward limit of wind setup on beaches

Open coast storm surge water levels consist of a wind shear forcing component generally referred to as wind setup; a wave setup component caused by wind-induced waves transferring momentum to the water column; an atmospheric pressure head component due to the atmospheric pressure deficit over the spatial extent of the storm system; a Coriolis-forced component due to effects of the rotation of the earth acting on the wind-driven alongshore current at the coast; and, if astronomical tides are present, an astronomical tide component. Astronomical tide is considered to be predictable and, therefore, not a meteorological driven component of storm surge although there may be interaction between the tide and meteorological driven water levels. Typically the most important component of storm surge on the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico shorelines is the wind setup component. The importance of inland flooding due to the wind setup component of storm surge is considered herein with special reference to the effect of subaerial slope on inland flooding where three different linear slopes are considered and storm surge is calculated for the region above still water level, using an analytic solution. The present study findings show that the inland storm surge from the wind setup component can be of considerable importance and lead to significantly higher storm surges than found for storm surge at the still water level intersection of the beach/land. It is shown that mild slopes can lead to very high water levels at the land–water interface (i.e. above the still water level intersection of the beach).     

The morphology and migration of transverse bars off the west-central Florida coast

A series of migrating shore-normal sandbars with wavelengths of 75–120 m and heights up to 2 m have been identified off the northern tip of Anna Maria Island, a barrier island on the west-central Florida coast. Similar features have been described elsewhere since the 1930s and termed ‘transverse bars’. The transverse bars identified off Anna Maria Island are found for about 3 km along the coast and extend 4 km offshore, well outside the normal surf-zone width. No cusps or any other associated beach expression is evident despite the fact that the bars come to within about 75 m of the beach. Sediments on the crests of the bars are a well-sorted fine quartz sand, whereas sediments in the troughs are a poorly sorted coarse carbonate shell hash. Historical aerial photographs and repeated high-resolution bathymetric surveys provide a means of quantifying the migration of the transverse bars. Analyses of orthorectified aerial photographs from the early 1940s through the mid 1990s clearly show movement or migration taking place in the bar field. In the 40-yr period from 1951 to 1991, the southern edge of the bar field moved 200–350 m to the south, with an average long-term migration rate of 8 m/yr. Repeated bathymetric surveys over an 8-month period give an average short-term migration rate of 21 m/yr to the south. Wave and current measurements suggest that southerly winds associated with the passage of cold fronts drive near-bed currents to the south that are strong enough to initiate sediment transport and cause the southerly migration of the transverse bars.     

Submarine bars on sandy coasts

A brief review of the studies concerning the problem of submarine bars over the past decade is presented. Various types of bars are distinguished, and the mechanisms responsible for the formation thereof are discussed. The short-term (days, weeks) behavior of the bars is described in relation to the changes in the local wave parameters. The bar systems are shown to demonstrate cyclic behavior of two different types on time scales of years and decades. In the former case, the bars arise near the shore, migrate towards the sea, and degrade in the external margin of the coastal zone. The other cycle’s type is characterized by the landward migration of the bars and their welding with a subaerial beach, which results in creating a conveyor delivering material to the beach and eventually to the foredune by Aeolian transport. In the former case, the bar zone behaves as a closed system, while, in the latter, as a transition zone. It is noted that the long-term evolution of a bar system is controlled by a feedback mechanism tending to return the system to the initial state.     

Quasi-three-dimensional modelling of the morphology of longshore bars

A morphological quasi-three-dimensional (Q3D) area model for barred coasts has been developed. The model combines a two-dimensional depth integrated model for wave-driven currents with a model for undertow circulation currents. The combined model makes a simultaneous simulation of the bar-forming processes associated with the undertow and the horizontal wave-driven circulation currents, which may cause instabilities of the bar and the formation of rip channels. Situations with normal and oblique wave incidence are considered. Compared to the depth integrated approach the Q3D model produces less pronounced alongshore irregularities for obliquely incident waves. For normal incident waves the Q3D model produces a crescentic bar while the depth integrated model predicts almost straight sections of the bar interrupted by rip channels. The sensitivity to variation of wave angle and beach slope is further investigated.     

Complex vertical migration of larvae of the ghost shrimp, Nihonotrypaea harmandi, in inner shelf waters of western Kyushu,Japan

The position of meroplanktonic larvae in the water column with depth-dependent current velocities determines horizontal transport trajectories. For those larvae occurring in inner shelf waters, little is known about how combined diel and tidally-synchronized vertical migration patterns shift ontogenetically. The vertical migration of larvae of Nihonotrypaea harmandi (Decapoda: Thalassinidea: Callianassidae) was investigated in mesotidal, inner shelf waters of western Kyushu, Japan in July–August 2006. The larval sampling at seven depth layers down to 60 m was conducted every 3 h for 36 h in a 68.5-m deep area 10 km off a major coastal adult habitat. Within a 61–65-m deep area 5–7.5 km off the adult habitat, water temperature, salinity, chlorophyll a concentration, and photon flux density were measured, and water currents there were characterized from harmonic analysis of current meter data collected in 2008. The water column was stratified, with pycnocline, chlorophyll a concentration maximum, and 2% of photon flux density at 2 m, recorded at around 22–24 m. The stratified residual currents were detected in their north component, directed offshore and onshore in the upper and lower mixed layers, respectively. More than 87% of larvae occurred between 20 m and 60 m, producing a net onshore transport of approximately 1.3 km d⁻¹. At the sunset flooding tide, all zoeal-stage larvae ascended, which could further promote retention (1.4-km potential onshore transport in 3 h). The actual onshore transport of larvae was detected by observing their occurrence pattern in a shallow embayment area with the adult habitat for 24 h in October 1994. However, ontogenetic differences in the vertical migration pattern in inner shelf waters were also apparent, with the maximum mean positions of zoeae deepening with increasing stages. Zoeae I and II performed a reverse diel migration, with their minimum and maximum depths being reached around noon and midnight, respectively. Zoeae IV and V descended continuously. Zoeae III had behaviors that were intermediate to those of the earlier- and later-stage zoeae. Postlarvae underwent a normal diel migration (nocturnal ascent) regardless of tides, with the deepest position (below 60 m and/or on the bottom) during the day. These findings give a new perspective towards how complex vertical migration patterns in meroplanktonic larvae enable their retention in inner shelf waters before the final entry of postlarvae into their natal populations.     

闽江口拦门沙整治工程建议

本文根据闽江口内、外拦门沙悬沙动态相关分析的基本结论,提出成套的整治工程建议包括壶江锁坝、五虎-川石锁坝、川石顺坝和梅花顺坝,文中记述各项工程的主要机制和具体的工程效益,供设计部门参考。     

Morphodynamic response of nearshore bars to a shoreface nourishment

The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm³ shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates.     

Temporal and spatial variations of the Huanghe River mouth bars

1 Introduction T aking the average riverbed elevation ofthe riverm outh from its upstream side to its dow nstream sidew ithin a m outh area as a base line, there is usually asand sw ell standing higher than the base line. If thesw ellis form ed in the distributary channel,itis consid-ered as “a longitudinalbar”;ifitis offornearthe riverm outh,itis called “m outh bar”(Jiand H uang,1995a),such as the cases in the C hangjiang R iver andQ iantang R iverm outh areas(see Figs 1 and 2). Fig. …     

Multiple longshore sand bars in the upper Chesapeake Bay

In the upper Chesapeake Bay (Maryland, U.S.A.) field surveys were conducted at 18 multiple longshore sand bar sites. The multiple bar systems were found in water depths less than approximately 2 m (mean sea level), and exhibited mild bottom slopes of 0·0052 or less. The number of bars composing each system ranged from four to 17 and the spacing between the crests typically increased in the offshore direction, ranging from 12 to 70 m. Bar height also typically increased with distance offshore and ranged from 0·03 to 0·61 m. A grain size analysis of crest and trough sediment did not reveal any significant differences and the sediment was categorized as ‘fine sand’. A review of the literature data indicated that the Chesapeake Bay multiple bars possessed similar characteristics to those found in Gelding Bay (Baltic Sea); similarities in fetch, wave height and tidal range between the two bays may account for this finding. The surf-scaling parameter indicated that the multiple bar systems were extremely dissipative with regard to wave energy, and wave height appeared to be an important factor in controlling bar spacing and bar height. A multiple wave break point hypothesis was discussed as a possible mechanism for the formation of Chesapeake Bay multiple longshore bars, and limited observational evidence appeared to support such a mechanism.     

Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars

Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars are investigated by a previously developed numerical model. First, the computed free surface displacements of regular waves at various locations are compared with the available experimental data to confirm the validity of the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. In addition, variations of decomposition characteristics with incident wave parameters and the change of energy spectrum for regular waves are also studied. Then the spectrum evolution of irregular waves over submerged bars, as well as the influence of incident peak wave period and the steepness of the front slope of the bar on spectrum evolution, is investigated. Wave decomposition and spectral shape are found to be significantly influenced by the incident wave conditions. When the upslope of the bar becomes 1:2, the length of the slope becomes shorter and will not benefit the generation of high frequency energy, so spectrum evolution is not significant.     

A field test of a linear stability model for crescentic bars

A morphodynamical linear stability analysis is used to predict the natural development of crescentic bed patterns and rip channels. The purpose is to investigate whether this technique, which is useful for understanding the physics of emerging bed-forms, can be used to make quantitative predictions in the field, which may then be of use for coastal engineers.     

Hydrodynamic performance of double rows of piles suspending horizontal c shaped bars

The wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation of the double rows of vertical piles suspending horizontal steel C shaped bars are experimentally and theoretically studied under normal regular waves. Different wave and structural parameters are investigated e.g. the wave length, the C shaped bars draft and spacing, the supporting piles diameter and spacing, and the space between the double rows. Also, the theoretical model based on an eigenfunction expansion method is developed to study the hydrodynamic breakwater performance. In order to examine the validity of the theoretical model, the theoretical results are compared with the experimental and theoretical results obtained by different authors. Comparison between experiments and predictions showed that theoretical model provides a good estimate to the different hydrodynamic coefficients when the friction factors of the upper and the lower parts are f_U = 1.5 and f_L = 0.75. The present breakwater physical model gives efficiency near other similar systems of different shapes.     

闽江口拦门沙悬浮泥沙动态的遥感分析

闽江口内、外拦门沙是福州港通海之主要障碍。本文应用遥感分析研究其悬浮泥沙的动态。结果表明,内拦门沙的形成与演变受多种因素控制,最重要的是川石水道的分流;外拦门沙是经梅花水道合流和铁板沙过滩水流分流后川石水道远端泥沙扩散的产物。目前,外沙浅滩仍显现不稳定状态。这些结论可为闽江口拦门沙整治规划提供科学依据。     

Interaction of non-breaking regular waves with a periodic array of artificial porous bars

A computational model is developed to investigate the wave damping characteristics of a periodic array of porous bars. The transmission and reflection coefficients as well as the wave energy dissipation are evaluated relating to the physical properties and geometric factors of bars. It is shown that the porosity, number, width and height of bars all play important roles in the wave damping characteristics, compared to other factors such as the intrinsic permeability. It is observed that like impermeable bars, permeable bars display Bragg phenomenon. However, Bragg reflection produced by permeable bars is smaller than that by impermeable bars. Permeable bars reflect smaller waves, transmit smaller waves and dissipate more wave energy. It is indicated that if the porosity increases, both the reflection and transmission coefficients decrease and more wave energy is dissipated. Further, it is found that the porosity controls the magnitude, but not the oscillation frequency of the reflection coefficient, which depends only on the number of bars.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

基于压磁效应的锈蚀钢筋应力状态检测试验研究

钢筋锈蚀是严重威胁结构安全的耐久性问题,基于压磁效应,研究均匀锈蚀和坑蚀两种锈蚀钢筋的应力状态与压磁场变化的关系。首先,采用通电加速锈蚀方法进行钢筋均匀锈蚀和点蚀试验;然后,通过轴向拉伸静载试验和疲劳加载试验,分析锈蚀钢筋的压磁信号特征。试验结果显示,磁感强度与钢筋应力状态之间具有较好的对应关系,屈服阶段不同锈蚀率下的钢筋磁感强度曲线有较明显区别,疲劳荷载作用下锈蚀钢筋的法向残余磁感强度和磁滞回环面积均呈现疲劳三阶段变化规律,可进一步运用于钢筋应力状态的检测中。     

Pockmarks in the inner Oslofjord,Norway

Multibeam bathymetric surveys of the Inner Oslofjord, Norway have revealed a high density of pockmarks in the 179-km² inner fjord area, which contains over 500 pockmarks of varying size, typically 20–50 m in diameter and 2–10 m deep. These pockmarks have been investigated with a variety of techniques, including acoustic subbottom profiling, sedimentological and geochemical analyses of cores, remotely operated vehicle observation, and morphometry. Both the distribution and shapes of the pockmarks suggest that they are related to structures in the bedrock underlying relatively thin (<50 m) unconsolidated glacial and postglacial sediments. The data provide no direct indication of a particular mode of pockmark formation, but release of large amounts of biogenic, shallow methane seems unlikely. Several lines of evidence point to a continuous process of pockmark formation followed by inactivity, with some pockmarks recently active whereas others have been inactive for a considerable time. Some pockmarks are characterised by coarse sediment in their centres. The density, variety and easy access make this pockmark field an ideal model area for pockmark research. John S. Gray is deceased.     

锈蚀钢筋在疲劳荷载作用下压磁场分布研究

针对锈蚀钢筋的疲劳损伤与寿命评估中的难度大、精度低等问题,引入压磁检测技术,对锈蚀钢筋疲劳过程中的压磁场分布进行检测,从宏观与微观相结合的角度分析压磁场分布与疲劳损伤之间的联系。试验结果表明,锈蚀钢筋的压磁场分布能够反映疲劳损伤的演变规律,疲劳后期非线性特征加剧,锈蚀率及应力幅越大则变化越为明显,磁感强度值、磁场分布梯度、"反转"现象等均有助于进行疲劳损伤评价与寿命预测。研究结果可为压磁无损检测技术在钢筋混凝土结构中的应用提供依据。     

The influence of sea state on formation speed of alongshore variability in surf zone sand bars

The formation time of alongshore morphological variability in surf zone sand bars has long been known to differ from one beach to the other and from one post-storm period to another. Here we investigate whether the type of sea state, i.e. distant swell waves or locally generated short period wind sea, affects the formation time of the emerging alongshore topographic variability.A numerical modeling approach is used to examine the emergence of alongshore variability under different shore-normal wave forcing. A research version of Delft3D, operating on the time-scale of wave groups, is applied to a schematised bathymetry with a single bar. The model is then used to investigate several wave scenarios, examining the impact of peak period, frequency spread and directional spread on the formation time of alongshore variability.Results show that an increase in wave period has a large effect, changing the formation time up to O (250%) in case the wave period is changed from a representative value for the Dutch coast (T_p ~ 5–6 s) to an Australian South East coast value (T_p ~ 10–12 s). In contrast, modifications in the directional and frequency spread of the wave field result only in a minor change in the formation time.Examination of hydrodynamics and potential sediment transport shows that the variations in formation time are primarily related to changes in the magnitude of the time-averaged flow conditions. Variations in the magnitude of very low frequency (f < 0.004 Hz) or infragravity (0.004 < f < 0.04 Hz) surf zone flow velocities do not affect the mean sediment transport capacity. Consequently the formation speed of patterns is primarily governed by positive feedback between mean flow and morphology, and low frequency flow fluctuations are of minor importance.These findings indicate that the development of alongshore topographic variability may be faster at swell dominated open coasts, primarily due to the occurrence of longer period swell. Also, at a given site, the arrival of a long wave period swell after a storm can accelerate the emergence of variability.     

Flexural performances of prestressed high strength concrete piles reinforced with hybrid GFRP and steel bars

Abstract

This study developed prestressed high-strength concrete (PHC) piles reinforced with high-strength materials (glass fiber-reinforced polymer (GFRP) bars) for flexural performance enhancement. Flexural strengths and behaviors of PHC piles reinforced with hybrid GFRP and steel bars were experimentally investigated, respectively. Large-scale specimens with total lengths of 12,000?mm and diameters of 600?mm were constructed and tested under bending, accompanied by evaluation of effects of non-prestressed reinforcement type and longitudinal reinforcement ratio. J-factors were calculated to evaluate deformability of all the specimens. PHC piles reinforced with GFRP bars were demonstrated to have much higher flexural capacity than those reinforced with steel bars. Moreover, strains at the midspans of cross sections of all the specimens basically conformed to the assumption of plane section. Failure of PHC piles reinforced with GFRP bars was attributable to gradual concrete crushing, while that of PHC piles reinforced with steel bars resulted from steel yielding. Results of this study were expected to provide theoretical basis for wide engineering applications of PHC piles reinforced with hybrid GFRP bars and steel bars in marine structures.