Continental shelf waves off the fukushima coast Part I: Observations

Current records obtained in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are analyzed. The existence of periodical current fluctuations whose period is about 100 hours and whose amplitude is as large as 15–25cm s^–1 is recognized. Auto-spectral analyses are made also for sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind records. Each spectrum has significant peaks at the similar period to the current spectrum. The wind spectrum has a broad peak compared with the current. The periodical current fluctuations propagate southward with speed of 3–5 km h^–1. These propagation speeds seem to correspond to those of the second-and third-mode shelf waves.     

Continental shelf waves off the Fukushima coast

Past observations and theories have indicated the importance of the constitution of the lowest-mode of shelf waves to the velocity field. However, significant contributions of the higher mode waves to current velocity fluctuations in the vicinity of the coast are suggested in observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast in Pt. I of this study (Kubota et al., 1981). To understand the importance of the higher modes, the generation of shelf waves is investigated theoretically by two methods. First, the generation of long shelf waves by monochromatic forcing is examined, and it is concluded that near the coast the second mode's contribution to the longshore velocity is the largest for the Fukushima coast. Second, the response of shelf waves to broad-band forcing is investigated by taking the dispersive characteristics of shelf waves into consideration. It is concluded that shelf waves with zero group velocity are selectively excited if the forcing has a broad-band spectrum. According to observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast, the wind spectrum has a broad peak at about 100 hours (Kubota et al., 1981). Since the third mode of shelf waves has zero group velocity around the period of 100 hours, the third mode can be selectively generated off the Fukushima coast. From this it is suggested that the Fukushima coast is in the forced region and that observed current fluctuations are motions associated with the second- and third-mode shelf waves.     

Numerical experiment on <Emphasis Type="Italic">Kyucho</Emphasis> around the Tango Peninsula induced by Typhoon 0406

A numerical experiment using a three dimensional level model was performed to clarify the mechanism generating a strong coastal current, Kyucho, induced by the passage of Typhoon 0406 around the tip of the Tango Peninsula, Japan in June 2004. Wind stress accompanied by Typhoon 0406 was applied to the model ocean with realistic bottom topography and stratification condition. The model well reproduced the characteristics of Kyucho observed by Kumaki et al. (2005), i.e., the strong alongshore current with maximum velocity of 53 cm s⁻¹ and its propagation along the peninsula with propagation speed of about 0.6 m s⁻¹ one half-day after the typhoon’s passage. Coastal-trapped waves (CTW) accompanied by downwelling were induced along the northwest coast of the peninsula by the alongshore wind stress. The energy density flux due to the CTW flowed eastward along the coast, and indicated scattering of the CTW around the eastern coast of the peninsula. In addition, significant near-inertial internal gravity waves were also caused in the offshore region from the west of the Noto Peninsula to the north of the Tango Peninsula by the typhoon’s passage. The energy flux density of the near-inertial fluctuations flowed southward off the Fukui coast, and part of the energy flux was trapped on the tip of the Tango Peninsula, flowing with the coast on its right. It was found that the strong current, Kyucho, at the northeastern tip of the Tango Peninsula was generated by superposition of the near-inertial internal gravity waves and subinertial CTW.     

Coastal-Trapped Waves with Several-Day Period Caused by Wind along the Southeast Coast of Honshu, Japan

Generation and propagation of several-day period fluctuations along the southeast coast of Honshu, Japan, were investigated by analyzing sea level data and by using a numerical model. The sea level data obtained at twelve stations from Choshi to Omaezaki in fall in 1991, showed energy peaks at the 3–6 day period at the eastern stations in this coast. Time lags of the 3–6 day period fluctuations between station and station indicate westward propagation along the coast. However, the energy level of the 3–6 day period fluctuations suddenly decreased south of the Izu Peninsula. Numerical experiments using a two-layer model were performed to clarify the generation and propagation mechanism of the several-day period fluctuations by periodical wind in fall. The amplitude distributions of observed sea level were qualitatively explained by a coastal-trapped wave (CTW) in the numerical experiment. From the discussions on propagation of a free wave, CTW with the characteristics of a shelf wave generated by the wind along the northeast of the Boso Peninsula was separated into two types of wave at the southeast of the peninsula. One is an internal Kelvin wave with large interface displacement and the other is the shelf wave propagating over the northern part of the Izu Ridge. The sudden decrease in the surface displacement with the 3–6 day period observed at the western stations is considered to be due to the local effect of the wind and phase relation between the internal Kelvin wave and shelf wave.     

Characteristics of coastal trapped waves along the southern and eastern coasts of Australia

The spatial structures and propagation characteristics of coastal trapped waves (CTWs) along the southern and eastern coasts of Australia are investigated using observed daily mean sea level data and results from a high-resolution ocean general circulation model (OGCM), and by conducting sensitivity studies with idealized numerical models. The results obtained from the sea level observations show that shortterm variations, with a typical period of 1 to 2 weeks, dominate the sea level variability in the southern half of Australia. The signal propagates anticlockwise around Australia with a propagation speed of 4.5 m/s or faster in the western and southern coasts and 2.1 to 3.6 m/s in the eastern coast. Strong seasonality of the wave activity, with large amplitude during austral winter, is also observed. It turns out that the waves are mainly generated by synoptic weather disturbances in the southwestern and southeastern regions. The numerical experiment with idealized wind forcing and realistic topography confirms that the propagating signals have characteristics of the CTW both in the southern and eastern coasts. Sensitivity experiments demonstrate that the difference in the phase speed between the coasts and reduction of the amplitude of the waves in the eastern coast are attributed to the different shape of the continental shelf in each region. The structures and the propagation characteristics of the CTWs around Australia are well reproduced in OFES (OGCM for the Earth Simulator) with dominant contribution from the first mode, although meso-scale eddies may modify the structure of the CTWs in the eastern coast. It is also found that generation or reinforcement of the waves by the wind forcing in the southern part of the eastern coast is necessary to obtain realistically large amplitude of the CTWs in the eastern coast.     

A Holistic Approach to Upwelling and Downwelling along the South-West Coast of India

An attempt has been made to develop a holistic understanding of upwelling and downwelling along the south-west coast of India. The main objective was to elucidate the roles of different forcings involved in the vertical motion along this coast. The south-west coast of India was characterized by upwelling during the south-west monsoon (May to September) and by downwelling during the north-east monsoon and winter (November to February). The average vertical velocity calculated along the south-west coast from the vertical shift of the 26?°C isotherm is 0.57?m/day during upwelling and 0.698?m/day during downwelling. It was concluded that upwelling along the south-west coast of India is driven by offshore Ekman transport due to the alongshore wind, Ekman pumping, horizontal divergence of currents and by the propagation of coastally trapped waves. Whereas downwelling along the coast is driven only by convergence of currents and the propagation of coastally trapped Kelvin waves. Along the west coast of India, the downwelling-favorable Kelvin waves come from the equator and upwelling-favorable waves come from the Gulf of Mannar region.     

Tides and tidal currents along the Okhotsk coast of Hokkaido

The development and propagation of the diurnal tidal currents along the Okhotsk coast of Hokkaido is made clear using newly obtained data. the diurnal currents are generated at the Soya Strait by the difference of the tidal amplitude and phase between the Sea of Okhotsk and the Japan Sea, and propagate as the shelf waves trapped along the coast. As a result, the amplitude in the coast becomes small and the phase is advanced for 12 hours compared to those in the offshore area. For the semidiurnal tides, the influence of the difference of the tides between both seas is restricted near the strait because they are quickly dispersed as the Poincaré wave.     

Origin of theAbiki phenomenon (a kind of seiche) in Nagasaki Bay

Large oscillations of water level in Nagasaki Bay are calledAbiki and are most frequently observed in winter. The largestAbiki recorded in the past 20 years at the tide station at Nagasaki occurred on March 31, 1979. Simultaneously, a distinct atmospheric pressure disturbance of solitary type with an amplitude of about 3 mb was recorded at several neighbouring stations in Kyûshû, which indicated the pressure disturbance probably travelled eastward with an average speed of about 110 km h^–1.The quantitative relation between this pressure disturbance and notable seiches observed in Nagasaki Bay is examined by means of numerical simulation, and it is confirmed that the exceptionally large range of oscillations in the bay, which reached 278 cm at the tide station, was indeed produced by this travelling pressure disturbance.The leading part of shallow water waves induced by the atmospheric pressure disturbance was amplified up to about 10 cm in amplitude, over the broad continental shelf region off China, because of near resonant coupling to the pressure disturbance. After leaving this continental shelf region, the amplified water wave converged into the shelf region (Gotô Nada) surrounded by the north-western coast of Kyûshû and the Gotô Islands and excited eigenoscillations on the shelf. A train of waves thus formed with a period of about 35 min entered Nagasaki Bay and was resonantly amplified at periods of 36 min and 23 min which are the eigen periods of the bay. Besides resonance, the combined effects of shoaling and reflection inside Nagasaki Bay also enhanced the amplification.     

Winter dynamics on the northern Portuguese shelf. Part 2: bottom boundary layers and sediment dispersal

The northern Portuguese shelf, between 41°N and 42°N, is characterised by the presence of a mid-shelf mud deposit, the Douro Mud Patch (DMP). Observations conducted between July 1996 and June 1999 under the framework of project OMEX II–II, are used to examine the impact of the dynamic processes in the lower water column, particularly on the DMP. The typical wave conditions observed during the winter maintain a highly energetic environment, capable of promoting the erosion of fine sediments at mid-shelf depths. However, the bottom nepheloid layers generated beneath these waves only extend a few meters above the bottom and are contained within rocky outcrops with similar heights that fringe the outer shelf. Each year there are about ten storms, mostly associated with southerly winds that create downwelling conditions over the shelf. The waves associated with these storms produce shear velocities over 3 cm/s at mid-shelf and bottom nepheloid layers which extend a few tens of meters above the bottom and spread offshore, over the outer shelf and upper slope. A rough estimate suggests that these events account for an offshore export of about 20×10⁶ kg of fine sediments each year (equivalent to 1–2% of sediments trapped at DMP).     

Onset of coastal upwelling in a two-layer ocean by wind stress with longshore variation

On the assumption that motions of the barotropic mode are horizontally nondivergent, action of the wind stress with longshore variation on a two-layer ocean adjacent to the meridional east coast is studied. Only the equatorward wind stress is considered. Along the east coast, upwelling is induced by the direct effect of the coast and is confined in a narrow strip with the width of the order of the internal radius of deformation. The upwelling propagates poleward with the internal gravity wave speed. Coastal upwelling induced by the wind stress with longshore variation may be interpreted as the generation and propagation of internal Kelvin waves. Associated with the coastal upwelling, the equatorward flow in the upper layer and the poleward flow in the lower layer are formed as an internal mode of motions. When the bottom topography with the continental shelf and slope is taken into account, occurrence of the poleward undercurrent is delayed by a few days because of the generation of continental shelf waves. And, after the forcing is stopped, the shelf waves propagate poleward away from the upwelling region and the poleward undercurrent fully develops. At the margin of the continental shelf, another upwelling region is induced and propagates poleward.     

A numerical experiment on the variations of western boundary currents: Part II. Response to a moving typhoon

Response of the barotropic western boundary current to typhoon passage is investigated by the use of the numerical models described in Part I. Steady states obtained in Part I are chosen as the initial conditions for undisturbed currents. In these models it is assumed that an axially symmetric typhoon (radius = 100 km, maximum wind speed = 27.4 m/sec) moves parallel to the western boundary.For the model with a flat bottom the boundary flow diminishes its strength and broadens its width after the passage of the typhoon offshore. For the model with a continental slope the effect of the typhoon is significantly different depending on the distance of the path of the typhoon from the western boundary. Specifically the north wind on the continental slope causes the formation of cyclonic vortex, which progresses southwards along the slope in the northern hemisphere. Linear theory of continental shelf waves indicates that the phase speed of the propagation of the vortex is 2.4 m/sec. Anomalies of the water level along the coast are also calculated from geostrophic relationships.     

Diurnal shelf waves off Hamada on San'in Coast

The tidal current data observed off Hamada on San'in coast have shown the diurnal tidal currents to be larger than the semidiurnal ones by a factor of 5–8, although the ratio (K₁+O₁)/(M₂+S₂) for the tidal heights at Hamada is 1.3. Furthermore, the diurnal currents are found to be more remarkable on the shelf slope than on the shelf. We consider such diurnal current features as being due to the vortical mode waves, and show that the broad shelf and steep shelf slope off San'in coast allow 1st-mode interior shelf waves (ISWs) at a diurnal-period. Using a simple shelf model, it is shown that ISWs occur in response to the seaward component of diurnal tidal oscillations on the shelf and their propagation originates from the western entrance of the Tsushima Straits.     

High Frequency Current Fluctuations and Cross-shelf Flows around the Pycnocline near the Shelf Break in the East China Sea

Relation between internal waves with short time scale and density distribution near the shelf break in the East China Sea is studied utilizing moored current meters, thermometers and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) casts. A well developed pycnocline was frequently observed around 150–200 m depth near the shelf break accompanied with the development of internal waves with short time scale. During the cruise in May 1998, the intensified internal wave motion with short time scale and the distinct offshore flow were observed just below the lower pycnocline, which shoaled and extended above the shelf area. It is suggested that vertical mixing generated by amplified internal waves would produce cross-shelf ageostophic density current around the pycnocline. During the cruise in May 1999, on the other hand, the lower pycnocline was located offshore below the shelf break, and the internal wave motion was amplified just above the lower pycnocline. In this case, the offshore flow should be generated above the lower pycnocline, but vertical profiles of current velocity were not obtained because acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data were not available around the lower pycnocline.     

Modelling the tides and their impacts on the vertical stratification over the Sofala Bank,Mozambique

The Sofala Bank, a wide shelf located along the central coast of Mozambique, hosts tides with high amplitudes. The Regional Ocean Modelling System (ROMS) was used to analyse the tidal currents on the bank and to investigate their effects on the stratification and generation of tidal fronts. During spring tides, barotropic tidal currents with maximum values ranging from 40 cm s^–1 to 70 cm s^–1 are found on the central bank. The major axis of the tidal ellipses for M₂ and S₂ follow a cross-shelf direction with mainly anticlockwise rotation. Similar to observations, three distinct regimes occur: (i) a warm well-mixed region on the inner shelf where the depths are <30 m; (ii) a wellmixed colder region above the shelf edge; and (iii) a stratified region offshore. The model shows that the tides lead to cooling where two criteria are satisfied: the Simpson and Hunter parameter log₁₀(h/U³) <3.2 and the depth h >30 m. The shelf edge of the bank is important for internal tide generation. Two frontal structures result, one offshore between cooler mixed waters and warmer stratified waters and the other in shallow inshore waters, between cooler mixed waters and solar heated mixed waters.     

1997–1998 El Niño off Peru: A numerical study

An eddy-resolving numerical simulation for the Peru–Chile system between 1993 and 2000 is analyzed, mainly for the 1997–1998 El Niño. Atmospheric and lateral oceanic forcings are realistic and contain a wide range of scales from days to interannual. The solution is validated against altimetric observations and the few in situ observations available. The simulated 1997–1998 El Niño closely resembles the real 1997–1998 El Niño in its time sequence of events. The two well-marked, sea-level peaks in May–June and November–December 1997 are reproduced with amplitudes close to those observed. Other sub-periods of the El Niño seem to be captured adequately. Simple dynamical analyses are performed to explain the 1997–1998 evolution of the upwelling in the model. The intensity of the upwelling appears to be determined by an interplay between alongshore, poleward advection (related to coastal trapped waves) and wind intensity, but also by the cross-shore geostrophic flow and distribution of the water masses on a scale of 1000 km or more (involving Rossby waves westward propagation and advection from equatorial currents). In particular, the delay of upwelling recovery until fall 1998 (i.e., well after the second El Niño peak) is partly due to the persistent advection of offshore stratified water toward the coast of Peru. Altimetry data suggest that these interpretations of the numerical solution also apply to the real ocean.     

Near-equatorial eddies off South America

A considerable amount of the Amazon River water that is discharged into the equatorial Atlantic is then advected northward along the shelf by the strong North Brazil Current (NBC). Being relatively fresh, this water remains in the near-surface layer and can serve as an excellent tracer for the complex and variable flow of the offshore mesoscale eddies. Both surface salinity observations and CZCS (Coastal Zone Color Scanner) imagery can be mapped to estimate the circulation patterns of the eddies. Presented here are two sets of XBT (expendable bathythermograph) sections that give the thermal structure of eddies off the Demerara Rise (6–9°N). They were occupied nearly contemporaneously with CZCS imagery obtained during October 1980 and November 1981. Several studies have shown from ship drift data, from CZCS observations, and from Geosat altimetry that, particularly during late summer and fall, the NBC is found to retroflect offshore to the east, supplying the North Equatorial Counter Current (NECC) and is associated with eddies along the coast. Good agreement is shown between the CZCS and a NAVOCEANO AXBT (airborne bathythermograph) survey during this period as well as observations of surface phytoplankton and geopotential anomaly from an earlier 1964 survey. Estimates of volume transport within the eddy structure indicate that at times the offshore retroflection during spring as well as autumn can amount to 10 × 10⁶ m³ s^–1. The pronounced eddy variability off South America is shown by comparing a number of past hydrographic surveys. These suggest that considerable spatial variability can occur as can seasonal changes in volume transport of the NBC and the associated eddy circulation.     

Coastal upwelling and downwelling events in the Seto Inland Sea

Prominent coastal upwelling and downwelling events due to Ekman transport were observed during the period from 14 to 18 August 1983 along the Misaki Peninsula in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan. The coastline of the Misaki Peninsula is aligned approximately in an ENE-WSW direction. When an ENE wind continued blowing for about two days, the warm water in the upper layer was pushed offshore and cold water in the lower layer upwelled along the peninsula. The estimated upwelling speed 3 m below the sea surface was 0.032 cm sec^–1. On the other hand, when a WSW wind continued blowing for about two days the warm water in the upper layer sank into the lower layer along the peninsula. The estimated downwelling speed 3 m below the sea surface was 0.080 cm sec^–1. The time lag between the variations of the alongshore wind and offshore current was about 0.5 days.     

Further study of synoptic variability in Wakasa Bay, Japan

Observations of synoptic variability from CTD and current meter measurements in Wakasa Bay, Japan in summer of 1980 and 1981 are compared with the results of 1979 reported by Yamagata, Umatani, Masunaga and Matsuura (1984). It is suggested that the speed and direction of propagation can basically be explained in terms of shelf wave dynamics.In the 1980 event, a dense (colder and more saline) water advanced eastward along the north coast at about 10 km day⁻¹. The lateral scale of the phenomenon was about 30 to 40 km, in agreement with the Rossby internal radius of deformation. The T-S and current data suggest that the 1980 cold event was dominated by phase propagation. In the 1981 event, a light (warmer and less saline) water area advanced eastward at the speed similar to the 1980 cold event, but the T-S and current data suggest that Lagrangian drift of water particles associated with strong eddy motions was not negligible.     

The California current system—hypotheses and facts

The primary purpose of this paper is to describe the seasonal variation of the various currents which comprise the California Current System—the California Current, the California Undercurrent, the Davidson Current and the Southern California Countercurrent—and to investigate qualitatively the dynamical relationships among these currents. Although the majority of information was derived from existing literature, previously unpublished data are introduced to provide direct evidence for the existence of a jet-like Undercurrent over the continental slope off Washington, to illustrate ‘event’-scale fluctuations in the Undercurrent and to investigate the existence of the Undercurrent during the winter season.The existing literature is thoroughly reviewed and synthesized. In addition, and more important, geostrophic velocities are computed along several sections from the Columbia River to Cape San Lazaro from dynamic heights given by (1966), and (1964), and and (1976). From these data and from long-term monthly wind stress data and vertical component of wind stress curl data (denoted curl τ) given by (1977), interesting new conclusions are made. 1. The flow that has been denoted the California Current generally has both an offshore and a nearshore maximum in its alongshore coponent. 2. The seasonal variation of the nearshore region of strong flow appears to be related to the seasonal variation of the alongshore component of wind stress at the coast, τ_y^N, at all latitudes. Curl τ near the coast may also contribute to the seasonal signal, accounting for the lead of maximum current over maximum wind stress from about 40°N northward. Large-scale flow separation and fall countercurrents that of headlands may account for the sudden occurrence of late summer and fall countercurrents that appear as large anomalies from the wind-driven coastal flow south of 40°N. 3. From Cape Mendocino southward a northward mean is imposed on the nearshore current distribution. The mean is largest where curl τ is locally strongest, in particular, off and south of San Francisco and in the California Bight. It may be responsible for the portion of the Davidson Current that occurs off California, for the San Francisco Eddy and for the Southern California Eddy or Countercurrent. When southward wind stress weakens in these regions, the northward mean dominates the flow. Flow separation in the vicinity of headlands may also be responsible for these northward flows. There is some evidence that during periods of northward flow a mean monthly τ_y^N-driven southward current occurs inshore of the mean northward flow. At all latitudes, wind-driven ‘event’-scale fluctuations are expected to be superimposed on the seasonal nearshore flow. 4. The spatial distribution and seasonal variation oftthe offshore region of southward flow appear to be related to the spatial distribution and seasonal variation of curl τ. The seasonal variation of curl τ in these areas, curl τ^l, is roughly in phase with the seasonal variation of τ_y near the coast and roughly 180° out of phase with the seasonal variation of curl τ near the coast. Southward flow lags negative curl τ by from two to four months. The offshore region of southward flow is strongest during the summer and early fall. The mean annual location of the maximum flow is at about 250–350 km from shore off Washington and Oregon, and at 430 km off Cape Mendocino, 270 km off Point Conception and 240 km off northern Baja. The offshore branch of the flow bends shoreward near 30°N, which is consistent with the shoreward extension of the region of negative curl τ, so that by Cape San Lazaro (25°N), a single region of strong flow is observed within 200 km of the coast. 5. A third region of strong southward flow occurs at distances exceeding 500 km from the coast. The spatial distribution of this flow appears to be related to the spatial distribution of curl τ. 6. The mean northward flow known as the Davidson Current consists of two regions in which the forcing may be dynamically different—seaward of the continental slope off Washington and Oregon and between Cape Mendocino and Point Conception, the mean monthly northward currents appear to be related to the occurrence of positive curl τ; along the coast of Oregon and Washington the northward currents are not related to the occurrence of positive curl τ but are consistent with forcing by the mean monthly northward wind stress at the coast. 7. A region of southward flow that is continuous with the California Current to the south is generally maintained off Oregon and parts of Washington during the winter. This southward flow appears to separate the northward-flowing Davidson and Alaskan Currents in some time-dependent region south of Vancouver Island. The banded current structure is consistent with the distribution of curl τ, if southward flow is related to negative curl τ. 8. The seasonal progression of the California Undercurrent may be related both to the seasonal variation of the offshore region of strong flow (hence to curl τ^l) and to the alongshore component of wind stress at the coast. South of Cape Mendocino a northward mean also seems to be superimposed on the flow. This mean may be related to the occurrence of strong positive curl τ near the coast. Velocities at Undercurrent depths have two maxima, one in late summer and one in winter. The slope Undercurrent is indistinguishable, except by location, from the undercurrent that is observed on the Oregon-Washington continental shelf.