Application of longshore transport equations to the Andhra coast,east coast of India

Ship-reported waves published in the Indian Daily Weather Report are compiled for a period of 16 years and are used for the estimation of the longshore transport rate. Using the two well known longshore transport equations, viz., the Shore Protection Manual equation and the Komar and Inman equation, the longshore transport rate at Visakhapatnam beach is computed and the values are compared with earlier studies. Based on the inference that the Shore Protection Manual equation yields a better estimate for this region, the same equation is used for the estimation of the longshore transport rate along the Andhra coast. This study shows that the general direction of longshore transport is towards northeast during March to October and southwest during November to February. The longshore transport rate is high during the southwest monsoon period from June to September. A higher sediment transport rate is observed for the coastline oriented at 80 degrees east of north. The annual net transport is found to be quite low at the coastal segments near Ramaypatnam, Machilipatnam and Sacremento Light House, whereas it is found to be high near Nizampatnam, Gollapalem and Narasapur.     

山东半岛北岸跨锋面物质输运对辽东半岛东岸沉积有机质含量及来源的影响

深入理解气候变化影响下海洋动力过程变化及其多重环境效应,是了解海岸海洋系统未来演化趋势的重要途径。因此,本文在辽东半岛东岸泥质区取柱状样一根,通过沉积物粒度、TOC/TN含量、δ13C以及δ15N等指标,分析气候变化下山东半岛北岸跨锋面物质输运强度变化,及其对辽东半岛东岸泥质区沉积有机质含量和来源的影响。结果表明,高海面时期以来,山东半岛北岸跨锋面物质输运可分为两个变化阶段：6.5～2.9 cal ka BP,其强度随冬季风和黄海暖流的不断减弱而减弱;2.9 cal ka BP至今,由于冬季风较弱而黄海暖流总体强盛,其强度随黄海暖流的波动而呈现4段式的复杂变化。此外,辽东半岛东岸泥质区陆源和海源有机质含量与其强度呈正相关,相应于跨锋面物质输运强度的变化,6.5～2.9 cal ka BP期间,陆源和海源有机质含量持续减少,而2.9 cal ka BP至今则呈现复杂的4段式变化。总体上看,自6.5 cal ka BP以来,陆源有机质贡献率不断下降而海源有机质贡献率逐渐上升。     

厦门岛东海岸的蚀退与防护

根据波浪输沙和地形对比，对厦门岛东部海岸的岸滩侵蚀动态及演变趋势进行探讨，并根据其海岸特点提出相应的防护对策。     

Mixing process on the northeast coast of Hokkaido in summer

Direct measurements using a free-falling micro-profiler were conducted on the northeast coast of Hokkaido in the summer of 2007 to clarify the mixing process in the Soya Warm Current (SWC) region in terms of microstructure. The distribution of the Turner angle (Tu) showed that these regions have a high potential for double diffusive convection, but direct measurements of the turbulent dissipation rate (ε) and dissipation of temperature variance ( $ \chi_{T} $ ) did not necessarily correspond to each other in the SWC region, especially in the offshore front of SWC and farther offshore. The mixing efficiency indicated that, even though the Turner angle (Tu) indicated a high potential for double diffusive convection, turbulent mixing was the main contributor to the mixing process in this region, and double-diffusive convection only contributed partially and sparsely, especially in the boundary off SWC water. The bottom mixed layer (BML) is known to thicken off the SWC. The vertical diffusivity coefficient was enhanced near the bottom (10^?4–10^?3 m² s^?1) off the SWC, and these results support that turbulence near the bottom off the SWC contributed to the thickening of the BML.     

Guiana current over North Brazil shelf and continental slope

Using thein situ currents measurements conducted during Cruise 41 of the R/VAkademik Vernadsky, we have considered the structure of the Guiana Current in winter over the shelf, continental slope and in the deep-water part of the ocean, adjoining the Brazilian coast. Regular variations of the current velocity with depth have been identified, and the current velocity's stability and variability determined. The paper examines how the barocline component of the hydrostatic pressure horizontal drop influences the current velocity's vertical profile. An attempt has been made to evaluate the current's transport. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Low frequency current variability on the shelf break northeast of Taiwan

A buoy-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler was deployed on the shelf break off the northeast coast of Taiwan to monitor current variations in the upper ocean. The acquired data show that the flow in the upper water column was initially southwest and then abruptly turned northwest. This abrupt change occurred in mid-October, starting from the surface layer and then gradually extending to the deeper layer. In contrast with this flow, the flow in the lower water column was southwest over the entire record, but its amplitude was reduced after the middle of October. The abrupt change of current from southwest to northwest is related to the intrusion of Kuroshio. Examination of two CTD casts showed the salinity of the upper ocean to have increased after the directional shift in mid-October, further indicating the Kuroshio intrusion. The sea level data at Keelung provided other evidence for the intrusion of Kuroshio. The sea level descended as the intrusion occurred and kept the low value until the end of the record. The northwest flow, which carried the water away from the northern coast of Taiwan, is responsible for this descent. Although the intrusion of Kuroshio was mainly confined to the upper ocean, it did have influence on the whole water column. Examination of the wind record at Pengchiayu showed that the time of Kuroshio intrusion was not coincident with the intensification of the northeasterly monsoon. The local wind and the current at 20 m were incoherent. Both the variation of Kuroshio current and the fluctuation of Kuroshio path may be responsible for the variation of the local current. Since the intrusion of Kuroshio has a weak relationship with local wind variation, it appears to be induced by non-local factors.     

厦门岛东北部海滩回填重塑研究

在对厦门岛东北部海滩改造条件评价的基础上，选定泥金南部，长尾礁一下保-香山段海滩作为海滩回填重塑靶区，着重对下保-香山段海滩改造在海滩平衡，上下限高程，回填宽度，坡度，回填量及辅助工程措施等方面进行了研究，并提出相应的回填改造参数。     

闽东滨海断裂带活动特征研究

本文根据2006年在福建近海开展的多道地震的勘探成果,结合该区历史沉积资料,探讨闽东滨海海底断裂构造的分布特征,推断其新近活动时期为中新世晚期-上新世初期,并以遥感卫片为辅助手段,分析沿岸线性构造与滨海断裂之间的关系.航天遥感技术和卫片的采用,扩大了观察地质构造的视域和深度,弥补了野外地质观察的局限性,而物探、钻孔等工程和探测技术在本文中则为了解海底断层结构、规模提供了重要佐证,判断该断裂已达大断裂的规模.     

Study on the upwelling along the east coast of Guangdong

-There is a wind-caused upwelling along the east coast of Guangdong in summer. Its central position is above the depth of 20 m, and its annual variation is quite large. In August 1982, the velocity of the upwelling was 1.2 ×10-3 cm/s, the vertical flux of active phophate, 1.5m mol/(m2·d); and the primary productivity, 1558 mg/(m2·d), in the area outside the bay of Jieshi. Inside the up-welling facing the shore, a phenomenon of lacking oxygen existed at the sea bottom above 5 m depth. In the area outside the upwelling center, there was a phenomenon of upward water temperature inversion. The physical and chemical characteristics in the area of the upwelling are as follows: temperature, 22.13℃; salinity, 34.19, dissolved oxygen, 3.72 ml/1; oxygen saturation degree, 74.6%; pH value, 8.14; and active phosphate, 1.10 m mol/m3.     

Comparative advantage and distant water fishing fleets: The Australian east coast tuna longline fishery

A coastal state benefits from importing the services of a distant water fishing nation (DWFN) fleet if the DWFN has a comparative advantage in exploiting the fishery, based on factors such as market access, costs or technology. The paper compares the activities of the Australian and Japanese vessels in the east coast tuna longline fishery and finds the Australian vessels receive higher prices, have higher costs and use a different technology from the Japanese fleet. These differences suggest a pattern of comparative advantage which can lead to Australia benefitting from importing the services of the Japanese fleet.     

Classification of marine bioregions on the east coast of South Africa

Marine bioregional planning requires a meaningful classification and spatial delineation of the ocean environment using biological and physical characteristics. The relative inaccessibility of much of the ocean and the paucity of directly measured data spanning entire planning regions mean that surrogate data, such as satellite imagery, are frequently used to develop spatial classifications. However, due to a lack of appropriate biological data, these classifications often rely on abiotic variables, which act as surrogates for biodiversity. The aim of this study was to produce a fine-scale bioregional classification, using multivariate clustering, for the inshore and offshore marine environment off the east coast of South Africa, adjacent to the province of KwaZulu-Natal and out to the boundary of the exclusive economic zone (EEZ), 200 nautical miles offshore. We used remotely sensed data of sea surface temperature, chlorophyll a and turbidity, together with interpolated bathymetry and continental-slope data, as well as additional inshore data on sediments, seabed oxygen and bottom temperature. A multivariate k-means analysis was used to produce a fine-scale marine bioregionalisation, with three bioregions subdivided into 12 biozones. The offshore classification was primarily a pelagic bioregionalisation, whereas the inshore classification (on the continental shelf) was a coupled benthopelagic bioregionalisation, owing to the availability of benthic data for this area. The resulting classification was used as a base layer for a systematic conservation plan developed for the province, and provided the methods for subsequent planning conducted for the entire South African EEZ. Validation of the classification is currently being conducted in marine research programmes that are sampling benthic biota and habitats in a sampling design stratified according to the biozones delineated in this study.     

Evaluation of HF ground-wave radar on the east coast of Canada

HF ground-wave radar runs of roughly ten days duration were carded out in two tidally dominated regions off the Canadian East Coast in conjunction with oceanographic experiments. The surface current deduced from the HF radar observations are here compared with Eulerian velocities from various moored current meters and Lagrangian velocities derived from surface drifters. The agreement with the current meters is generally better than 0.05 m/s. Real current shear in the top 15 m of the water column of up to 0.1 m/s, lasting for up to 12 h, was observed on several occasions, coincident with wind reversals. The agreement between moored instruments and shallow-draft rectangular drifters was good, and with deeper draft cylindrical drifters it was excellent.     

琼东沿岸泥质沉积常量元素地球化学特征

对南海北部陆架琼东沿岸泥质区$20孔进行了岩性、粒度和常量元素分析,初步探讨了该泥质区常量元素地球化学特征.S20孔岩性较均一,主要为黏土质粉砂,研究区受相对单一而稳定的水动力条件控制.常量元素含量变化符合“元素的粒度控制律”,R型因子分析结果表明,第一因子P2O5,MnO,TiO2,A12O3,Fe2O3和K2O等的...     

Sources and transport of lipids on Amazon continental shelf

Dissolved material and recent sediment from the Amazon continental shelf have been analyzed for hydrocarbons to study the sources and potential fate of the transported organic matter. Dissolvedn-alkanes are present at low concentrations (ppb level) and are dominated by lipids from marine phytoplankton with carbon number maxima (C_max) at C₁₈/C₂₂ and an even-to-odd carbon predominance < C₃₀ (CPI_17–27 from 0.18 to 0.54). In the sediments, bimodal distributions ofn-alkane chain length suggest a mixed input of terrestrial (C_max at C₂₇/C₂₉/C₃₁ and CPI_25–33 from 0.75 to 1.82) and phytoplanktonic/microbial (C_max at C₂₀ and CPI_15–25 from 0.38 to 0.62) organic matter. Sesquiterpenes were the most significant cyclic compounds in all the dissolved samples analyzed reflecting a contribution from resinous trees to the terrestrial organic pool. On the other hand, enhanced concentrations of these compounds in the dissolved phase on the northwest portion of the Amazon shelf, contrasting with decreased concentrations in the sediment samples, suggest that dissolved lipids are released from solid phase in the intensely stirred seabed. Structured organic matter in the sediment has been characterized as being composed of, on average: 19% plant cuticles, 25% woody tissue, 13% pollens and spores, 24% amorphous material, 7% bituminite and 12% altered organic material.     

福建长乐东部海岸沙丘风蚀坑研究

沙丘风蚀坑是沙质海岸常见的风成地貌形态,是固定沙丘开始活化的明显标志.福建长乐东海岸风沙规模大、地貌类型多样,发育了许多典型的海岸沙丘地貌.由于各种自然和人为因素的作用,部分海岸沙丘发育了风蚀坑.根据对研究区风蚀坑的实地调查,本文论述了风蚀坑的形态特征、风蚀坑内的风速与风向变化,以及风蚀坑的风沙搬运与沉积过程,并对风蚀坑的成因和风蚀坑的演化阶段进行了讨论.文中得出以下几点结论:(1)研究区主要发育槽形风蚀坑,风蚀坑中轴线的方位多介于NE40°～NE65°之间,两侧侵蚀壁坡度介于35°～40°之间.(2)大型风蚀坑,风速在顶部最大.小型风蚀坑,较狭窄部位的风速可能大于项部.(3)大型风蚀坑,沿着中轴线上风向基本上保持不变,近侵蚀壁的风向则发生不同程度的改变.小型风蚀坑,从坑口到坑顶的风向变化明显.     

Predicting significant wave height off the northeast coast of the United States

To develop a simple method to predict the significant wave height, we analyze 18 years of hourly observations from 12 different buoys that are off the northeast coast of the United States. Water depths ranged from 19 to 4427 m for these moored buoys. We find that, on average, all of these buoys exhibit a region of constant wave height for 10-m wind speeds between 0 and 4 m s⁻¹. That wave height does, however, depend on water depth. For wind speeds above 4 m s^–1, the wave height increases as the square of the wind speed; but the multiplicative factor is again a function of water depth. We synthesize these results in a prediction scheme that yields the significant wave height from simple functions of water depth and 10-m wind speed for wind speeds up to 25 m s^–1.     

海南岛东海岸海草床生态系统健康评价

根据2004~2009年海南岛东海岸长圮港、龙湾、高隆湾、黎安港、新村港等地海草分布区的水质、沉积物、生物质量、栖息地、生物5个指标调查数据,按照《近岸海洋生态健康评价指南》(HY/T087-2005)海草生态系统评价方法,对海南岛东海岸海草床生态系统健康指标进行评价。结果显示,海南岛东海岸海草床水环境与沉积环境均处于健康状态;龙湾海草床生物残毒评价为亚健康,其余站位均处于健康状态;黎安港与长圮港海草床栖息地评价处于不健康状态,其余站位均处于健康状态;黎安港海草床生物评价处于不健康状态,新村港海草床生物评价处于亚健康状态,其他地方栖息地与生物评价均处于健康状态。海草床生态系统健康评价显示,黎安港处于不健康状态,新村港与长圮港处于亚健康状态,龙湾与高隆湾处于健康状态。总体上看,海南岛东海岸分布于珊瑚沿岸海草床生态系统比较健康,分布泻湖沿岸海草床趁于亚健康向不健康方向转变。本文希望通过对海南岛东海岸海草床生态系统的健康评价研究,为海草床生态系统的保护与修复提供理论依据。     

琼东海域珊瑚共附生放线菌的多样性

应用免培养方法与可培养方法相结合的方式对琼东海域6种珊瑚样品中的共附生放线菌进行研究,具体为滨珊瑚(Porite)、扁脑珊瑚(Platygyra)、角蜂巢珊瑚(Favites)、盔形珊瑚(Galaxea)和鹿角珊瑚(Acropora).免培养方法中,利用放线菌特异性引物对样品总DNA进行16S rRNA基因序列扩增,并将扩增产物进行Miseq高通量测序,测序结果分析表明,6种珊瑚样品中的放线菌序列属于37个分类单元,主要分布在酸微菌目、棒杆菌目、微球菌目、丙酸杆菌目和假诺卡式菌目,其中37.8%的分类单元与已有效发表菌株的序列相似性小于97%,可能代表着放线菌新的类群.可培养方法中,通过6种培养基分得137株放线菌,分属于放线菌门放线菌纲5个目11个科下的20个属,优势类群为分枝杆菌属(Mycobacterium)、考克氏菌属(Kocuria)和微球菌属(Micrococcus),其中放线孢菌属(Actinomycetospora)、柠檬球菌属(Citricoccus)和涅斯捷连科氏菌属(Nesterenkonia)是第一次从珊瑚样品中发现;琼东海域珊瑚共附生放线菌多样性丰富,新类型的放线菌资源挖掘潜力比较大.