Beach Morphodynamics influenced by an ebb‐tidal delta on the north Florida Atlantic coast

Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Optical dating of tidal sediments: Potentials and limits inferred from the North Sea coast

The accuracy of optical ages derived from tidal sediments depends largely upon the transport processes. These processes constrain the degree of bleaching by the time of deposition and the choice of grain size for dating. This study looks at flow regime, sediment bedding, particle size and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) over tidal flats in order to identify the tidal sub-environment from which reliable multigrain optical ages are most likely to be achieved. The resulting conceptual model is then compared with empirical OSL data obtained from Holocene sediments of the southern North Sea tidal coastal plain of continental Europe. Optical dating of the tidal sediments included single-aliquot-regenerative dose protocol applied to multigrain aliquots of fine sand and fine silt, statistical analysis using weighted skewness, standardised kurtosis and over-dispersion. It is inferred from the model that smaller grains should be better bleached than larger grains. However, because transport and deposition processes are extremely variable in both space and time, unequivocal “bleaching rules” could not be assigned to a particular tidal sub-environment. In this context more than 85% of our samples return accurate ages and around 13% of our optical ages are overestimated when compared with ages from established well-constrained stratigraphic frameworks. The empirical study confirms the concept of “variable bleaching rules”: both accurate and inaccurate ages are obtained from silty and sandy OSL samples regardless of the sub-environment and well-bleached samples may be obtained from all tidal sub-environments. Although our study is based on multiple-grain aliquots it also shows that an independent statistical treatment of equivalent dose data is an indispensable procedure to detect and correct for insufficient bleaching.     

Magellanic penguin mortality in 2008 along the SW Atlantic coast

Magellanic penguins migrate from Patagonia reaching northern Argentina, Uruguay, and southern Brazil on their winter migration, in parallel with the seasonal pulse of anchovy spawning. In 2008, Magellanic penguins went further north than usual. Many died and a few swam nearly to the Equator. Twelve groups surveyed 5000 km of coastline encountering 3371 penguins along the coast. Most penguins arrived in northern Brazil (68.4%) without petroleum (2933, 87%). Almost all penguins without petroleum were juveniles (2915, 99%) and 55% were alive when found. Penguins were dehydrated, anemic, hypothermic, and emaciated. Of the penguins with petroleum, 13% arrived in the southern half of Brazil, showing that petroleum pollution remains a problem along the SW Atlantic coast. The mortality occurred in the winter of 2008 when sea surface temperature were unusually cold perhaps reducing the prey for penguins.     

Patterns of significant seismic quiescence on the Mexican Pacific coast

Many authors have proposed that the study of seismicity rates is an appropriate technique for evaluating how close a seismic gap may be to rupture. We designed an algorithm for identification of patterns of significant seismic quiescence by using the definition of seismic quiescence proposed by Schreider (1990). This algorithm shows the area of quiescence where an earthquake of great magnitude may probably occur. We have applied our algorithm to the earthquake catalog on the Mexican Pacific coast located between 14 and 21 degrees of North latitude and 94 and 106 degrees West longitude; with depths less than or equal to 60 km and magnitude greater than or equal to 4.3, which occurred from January, 1965 until December, 2014. We have found significant patterns of seismic quietude before the earthquakes of Oaxaca (November 1978, M_w = 7.8), Petatlán (March 1979, M_w = 7.6), Michoacán (September 1985, M_w = 8.0, and M_w = 7.6) and Colima (October 1995, M_w = 8.0). Fortunately, in this century earthquakes of great magnitude have not occurred in Mexico. However, we have identified well-defined seismic quiescences in the Guerrero seismic-gap, which are apparently correlated with the occurrence of silent earthquakes in 2002, 2006 and 2010 recently discovered by GPS technology.     

Environmental pollution and natural populations: a biomarkers case study from the Iberian Atlantic coast

The degradation of estuaries is a result of human activities which overloads the environment with substances of both industrial and/or natural origins. Bioindicators have been consistently used to interpret effects of contaminants in the environment. In this study, the use of biomarkers (particular measurable characteristics of a bioindicator organism) was used to evaluate the contamination by xenobiotics of Crangon crangon natural populations. The central aim was to evaluate the capability of a battery of biomarkers to discriminate sites with different types of contamination. The activity of the enzymes cholinesterases (ChE), lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) and glutathione S-transferases (GST) were used as biomarkers. In addition, the ChE form(s) present in the cephalotorax of C. crangon were characterised. Organisms were seasonally sampled from winter 2001/2002 to autumn of 2002, at "reference" sites and at sites that receive agricultural, industrial and/or urban effluents. Results obtained in the characterisation of ChE with different substrates and selective inhibitors demonstrate that the form of ChE present in the cephalotorax of C. crangon shows proprieties of vertebrates' AChE and therefore it may be classified as true AChE-like ChE. The battery of biomarkers exhibited seasonal and local variations, apparently related to agricultural, industrial or urban effluent contamination. The tested biomarkers proved to be able to discriminate sources of environmental contamination, and confirms C. crangon as a sensitive species suitable to be used as a bioindicator.     

The density of North Atlantic and North Pacific deep waters

The densities of seventeen samples of seawater from GEOSECS stations 27 (North Atlantic) and 217 (North Pacific) have been measured with a vibrating flow densimeter at 25°C. The densities of the deep samples were found to be 5 ± 1.5and16 ± 3.6ppm greater, for the North Atlantic and North Pacific, respectively, than predicted by the equation of state of Millero, Gonzalez and Ward (1976) derived for seawaters of constant relative composition. The results are in good agreement with the density anomalies predicted by Brewer and Bradshaw (1975) on the basis of the observed increase of dissolved silica, alkalinity and total carbon dioxide in oceanic deep waters. The application of these corrections results in an agreement with the Millero, Gonzalez and Ward (1976) equation of state to ±4 ppm.     

Investigations of gram quantities of Atlantic and Pacific surface particulates

Particulates amounting to 0.1–2.0 g efficiently collected from large volumes of Atlantic and Pacific surface waters have been analyzed for carbonate, opal, quartz and several natural and man-made radioisotopes.The concentrations of particles range between 10 and 600 μg/kg. In the equatorial regions particle concentrations are low and similar in both the oceans. At higher latitudes (>30°N or S), the Atlantic waters, however, have higher concentrations of particles compared to those in the Pacific. The latitudinal distribution exhibits a north-south symmetry with higher concentrations in the 30°–60° belt. Based on the particulate abundance for CaCO₃ and opal and their sedimentation, we have estimated their production and in-situ integrated dissolution rates for a few regions.Radioisotopes having different source functions, namely¹⁴C and²³⁹Pu injected due to nuclear weapon tests,²³⁴Th,²³⁰Th and²²⁸Th produced in-situ in seawater,²³²Th which derives primarily from land,²¹⁰Pb introduced via wet precipitations and²²⁶Ra introduced through diffusion from deep-sea sediments have been measured in the particulates. The relative enrichment factors for these nuclides in particles vary as Th ? Pu > Pb > Ra. The atmospheric bomb fallout pattern is discernible in the surface particulates; the²³⁹Pu concentration increases with latitude in both the hemispheres; however, the values are about a factor of two lower in the southern hemisphere.The distribution pattern of radioisotopes is found to be complex, even for²³⁴Th whose source function in the oceans is uniform. In view of the differences in the source functions it becomes possible to delineate the principal geochemical/geophysical processes which determine the concentrations of these nuclides in surface waters.     

Strong tidal currents over two shallow banks in the western subarctic Pacific

The south-flowing waters of the Kamchatka and Oyashio currents are key components of the western subarctic Pacific gyre. The dissipation of tidal energy in shallow and coastal regions of these currents and the attendant mixing are the important processes that affect the upper layer temperature and salinity. Examples of the impact of tidal currents on water temperature and salinity are the persistent tide-driven mixing around the Kashevarov and Kruzenshtern banks. The Kruzenshtern Bank is a shallow submarine bank stretching along the eastern continental slope of the Kuril Islands with the minimum depth of 86 m. Surface drifters observations are used to determine the characteristics of tidal currents and the circulation over these banks. New software that allows more versatility in the harmonic analysis is used for drifter’s data. The two banks have similar features. The variations in current velocities are dominated by the diurnal signals. The K₁ and O₁ tidal ellipses over the banks are the largest and clockwise. The enhanced tidal currents suggest that the formation of cold and saline water in summer is due to mixing of water column over the banks with intermediate waters. Variations of tidal ellipses over the bank may explain the formation of polynya at the western end of the Kashevarov Bank. We found that the 18.6-year lunar nodal cycle is a significant characteristic of salinity variation at the temperature minimum in the eddies eastward of the Boussole Strait over the period 1990–2015.     

Downdrift coarsening of beach foreshore sediments at tidal inlets: An example from the coast of New Jersey

Analysis of grain size statistics of upper foreshore sediments on sand beaches at two tidal inlets in New Jersey, U.S.A. reveals that sediments are coarser at beaches flanking the inlets than updrift, although sediments become finer downdrift at the broad, regional scale. The local reversal of the regional trend in size grading is attributed to: (1) the offshore diversion of the finer sands along the surf zone on the ebb tidal delta, and (2) the removal of the finer sands from the inlet flank beach caused by low wave energy conditions at low stages of the tide and by deflation. Sediments thus become coarser at inlet beaches as a result of alterations in the interaction of waves with the beach and as a result of aeolian processes, not solely as a result of increased tidal current velocities as previously reported. The distance along the New Jersey barrier islands over which inlet processes are likely to affect changes in sediment size updrift averages less than 1100 m, but the impacts of inlets on the sedimentary record can be extended greater distances as a result of inlet migration.     

Radium and barium at GEOSECS stations in the Atlantic and Pacific

²²⁶Ra and Ba show a general linear correlation in the oceanic water column within the uncertainties of the data: the slope of the line is about 4.6 nanomoles (nmoles) Ra/mole Ba, the intercept being at about 4 nmoles Ba/kg. This demonstrates the usefulness of Ba as a “chemical analogue” of Ra. Box-model calculations indicate that the average deep-water excess of Ra over Ba should be about 10% relative to the surface. This is consistent with the observations outside the deep northeast Pacific. However, the uncertainties in the data are such that the regional variation in the primary input cannot be resolved. In the deep waters of the North Pacific there is in fact a large excess of Ra relative to Ba. The one detailed profile presently available (204) can be explained consistently by a simple vertical advection-diffusion model.     

Clast abrasion of a rock shore platform on the Atlantic coast of Ireland

The abrasion of coastal rock platforms by individual or clusters of clasts during transport has not been quantitatively assessed. We present a study which identifies the types of abrasion and quantifies erosion due to the transport of clasts during three storms in February and March 2016. We explore relationships between platform roughness, determined by the fractal dimension (D) of the topographic profiles, geomorphic controls and the type and frequency of abrasion feature observed. Clast transport experiments were undertaken in conjunction with the measurement of wave energy to assess transport dynamics under summer and winter (non‐storm) conditions. Platform abrasion occurred extensively during the storms. We identify two types of clast abrasion trails: simple and complex. In addition, we find two forms of erosion occur on these trails: Scratch marks and Percussion marks. An estimated 13.6 m² of the platform surface was eroded by clast abrasion on simple abrasion trails during the three storms. We attribute approximately two thirds of this to scratch‐type abrasion. The total volume of material removed by abrasion was 67 808 cm³. Despite the larger surface area affected by scratch marks, we find that the volume of material removed through percussion impact was almost seven times greater. We also find that the type and frequency of abrasion features is strongly influenced by the effect of platform morphometry on transport mode, with impact‐type abrasion dominating areas of higher platform roughness. Results of the clast transport experiments indicate that abrasion occurs under non‐storm wave energy conditions with observable geomorphological effects. We suggest that abrasion by clasts is an important component of platform erosion on high energy Atlantic coastlines, particularly over longer timescales, and that the morphogenetic link between the cliff and the platform is important in this context as the sediment supplied by the cliff is used to abrade the platform. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modeling the preservation potential of tidal flat sedimentary records,Jiangsu coast,eastern China

A forward modeling approach is proposed to simulate the preservation potential of tidal flat deposits. The preservation potential is expressed as a function of net deposition rate and a factor that represents the vertical flux of suspended load, or seabed lowering during erosion periods associated with bedload transport. The model takes into account a number of geometric parameters of a tidal flat sediment system and sediment dynamic processes. The former includes high water level, total sediment supply, the annual rate of the supply, the ratio of mud to bilk sediment in the supply, the bed slope of the tidal flat profile, as well as the slope of the stratigraphic boundary; the latter includes spring-neap cycles of tidal water level changes, boundary layer processes, resuspension of fine-grained sediments, bedload transport due to tidal currents, and bed elevation changes in response to sediment movement. Using this model, numerical experiments are carried out for a tidal flat system on the Jiangsu coast, eastern China, with the input data being derived from literature and from a series of sediment cores collected along an onshore–offshore transect. The results show that the preservation potential is highest over the upper part of the inter-tidal zone and in the lower part of the sub-tidal zone, and lowest near mean sea level and at low water on springs. The preservation potential tends to decrease with the advancement of the shoreline. The bed slope, tidal current direction and resuspension intensity influence the spatial distributions of the preservation potential. An implication of these results is that the temporal resolution of the tidal flat record depends upon the location and depth within the deposit; this should be taken into account in the interpretation of sedimentary records. Further studies are required to improve the model, on the hydrodynamic processes associated with extremely shallow water depths, sediment dynamic modeling of bed slope and profile shape, and the combined action of tides and waves for sediment transport on tidal flats.     

Reflection of equatorial Kelvin waves at eastern ocean boundaries Part II: Pacific and Atlantic Oceans

The effect of viscosity, non linearities, incident wave period and realistic eastern coastline geometry on energy fluxes are investigated using a shallow water model with a spatial resolution of 1/4 degree in both meridional and zonal directions. Equatorial and mid-latitude responses are considered. It is found that (1) the influence of the coastline geometry and the incident wave period is more important for the westward energy flux than for the poleward flux, and (2) the effect of the inclination of the eastern ocean boundary on the poleward energy flux, for the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, decline as the period of the incident wave increases. Furthermore, the model simulations suggest that the poleward energy fluxes from meridional boundaries give plausible results for motions of seasonal and annual periods. For comparatively shorter periods, a realistic coastline geometry has to be included for more accurate results. It is recommended that any numerical model involving the reflection of baroclinic Rossby waves (of intraseasonal, seasonal or annual periods) on the eastern Pacific or Atlantic Oceans, should consider the effect of the coastline geometry in order to improve the accuracy of the results.     

Bismuth in the Atlantic and North Pacific: a natural analogue to plutonium and lead?

Bismuth has been analysed on samples from a vertical section from California to VERTEX IV, north of Hawaii, from a profile in the western Sargasso Sea and from an extensive suite of surface stations in the North and South Atlantic. Taken together with data from samples of Bermuda rain and from the Mississippi, Amazon and the Orinoco and its tributaries, a general outline of the processes controlling the Bi distribution in the ocean can be worked out. The dominant source in the open ocean is aeolian with the fluvial inputs being very small. Most of the aeolian input is probably derived from volcanoes; an anthropogenic flux may be important in the northwest Atlantic. Bismuth is scavenged in the mixed layer and regenerated at shallow depth to give a distribution in the northwest Pacific similar to that of^239,240Pu and anthropogenic Pb. Below 2 km the values are extremely low, in the range 20–50 fM, lower than the coexisting levels for²³²Th. The residence time of the element in the water column is sufficiently short that there are large concentration decreases between the Deep Waters of the Atlantic and Pacific. In the latter ocean, the element appears to reflect essentially one-dimensional processes.     

Tides, sea-level rise and tidal power extraction on the European shelf

An established numerical tidal model has been used to investigate the impact of various sea-level rise (SLR) scenarios, as well as SLR in combination with large-scale tidal power plants on European shelf tidal dynamics. Even moderate and realistic levels of future SLR are shown to have significant impacts on the tidal dynamics of the area. These changes are further enhanced when SLR and tidal power plants are considered in combination, resulting in changes to tidal amplitudes, currents and associated tidal dissipation and bed shear stresses. Sea-level rise is the dominant influence on any far-field impacts, whereas tidal power plants are shown to have the prevailing influence over any changes close to the point of energy extraction. The spatial extent of the impacts of energy extraction is shown to be affected by the sea level when more than one tidal power plant in the Irish Sea was considered. Different ways to implement SLR in the model are also discussed and shown to be of great significance for the response of the tides.     

Pb-derived ages for the reconstruction of terrestrial contaminant history into the Mexican Pacific coast: Potential and limitations

²¹⁰Pb is widely used for dating recent sediments in the aquatic environment; however, our experiences working in shallow coastal environments in the Pacific coast of Mexico have demonstrated that the potential of ²¹⁰Pb for reliable historical reconstructions might be limited by the low ²¹⁰Pb atmospheric fallout, sediment mixing, abundance of coarse sediments and the lack of ¹³⁷Cs signal for ²¹⁰Pb corroboration. This work discusses the difficulties in obtaining adequate sedimentary records for geochronological reconstruction in such active and complex settings, including examples of ²¹⁰Pb geochronologies based on sediment profiles collected in two contrasting areas coastal areas (mudflats associated to coastal lagoons of Sinaloa State and the continental shelf of the Gulf of Tehuantepec), in which geochemical data was used to support the temporal frame established and the changes in sediment supply recorded in the sediment cores which were related to the development of land-based activities during the last century.