沿岸流中混合系数的实验研究

进行了在规则波作用下破波带内水平混合系数测量的物理模型实验。通过在沿岸流流场中投放墨水点源和采用CCD摄像机摄像,测量了点源扩散过程。利用水深平均二维扩散方程近似解析解得到了由实验结果计算混合系数的方法。实验结果表明:扩散系数仅依赖于当地水深,与波浪参数(周期和波高)无关。沿岸流沿水深变化产生的离散作用导致顺流方向(纵向)混合系数远大于横流方向(横向)混合系数。横流方向混合系数中由波浪产生的扩散系数占总扩散系数约40%,其余为波浪破碎引起的湍流产生的扩散系数。     

护滩软体排对潮滩碱蓬湿地修复的影响研究——以江苏条子泥为例

河口海岸潮滩湿地具有重要的生态服务功能,是近年来国家海岸带保护修复重大工程的重点关注区域。江苏条子泥潮滩湿地是中国黄（渤）海候鸟栖息地（第一期）的重要组成部分,面临着潮滩湿地保护修复和海堤工程维护的统筹协调等问题。护岸工程软体排是河口海岸工程常用的维护措施,但其对潮滩湿地保护和修复的影响尚不清楚。通过野外调查、碱蓬移栽和播种试验,分析了护滩软体排工程临近区域的高程、水动力、沉积物等环境参数对盐地碱蓬（Suaeda salsa）湿地修复的影响。结果表明：1）软体排对潮滩地貌影响明显,软体排内滩面稳定,软体排外亦有掩护效果,两月内促进盐沼植被区高程增量达29 cm,软体排外光滩高程变化剧烈;软体排建造后,海堤附近滩面地形有助于碱蓬植被定植,形成的高滩上移栽碱蓬存活率达55%,而在低处潮滩无法存活。2）碱蓬植被密度和株高受到盐度、高程、中值粒径环境因子的显著影响（P<0.05,P为显著性水平）,高程与碱蓬植被密度、株高正相关;盐度和中值粒径与碱蓬植被密度负相关;流速与碱蓬植被密度负相关;有效波高与碱蓬株高负相关。研究结果可为潮滩软体排护滩工程的实施、碱蓬盐沼植被定植机理和生态修复提供科...     

上海洋山建港后港域夏季水文泥沙状况分析

对2007年9月17-26日在上海洋山港海域固定观测点(平均水深13 m)观测得到的水文泥沙要素,以及悬沙和底质样品分析.分析结果为:1)港域有效波高0.21-1.37 m(风速0.6～14.0 m/s),平均0.61 m(平均风速5.5 m/s).平静天气(平均风速小于5.0 m/s)下,波高随水深变化,两者的相关系数为0.899;而在强风天气下,波高受风况控制.2)最大表层流速超过2.00 m/s.大潮涨潮流占优势,小潮时落潮流占优势;与北岛链汉道封堵前相比,大潮涨、落潮平均流速分别减小15%和30%,小潮涨、落潮平均流速均减小30%～40%.各层余流均为西北方向,与涨潮流方向一致;垂向平均余流速0.11 cm/s,表层达0.25 m/s.3)离底高程1.35 m层和0.35m层最大悬沙浓度均大于3 kg/m3,两层平均悬沙浓度分别为0.89和0.95 kg/m3.无论大潮还是小潮涨潮悬沙浓度均大于落潮,这种现象在大潮时更为显著,潮周期中最大悬沙浓度出现在涨急.与工程前相比悬沙浓度明显降低,大、小潮降低均达20%.4)港区底质平均粒径9.0μm,工程后有变细的趋势.     

长江河口南港枯季沙波对安全航行的影响研究

基于1997年、2002年、2006年枯季长江河口南港床面形态的现场观测,分析沙波发育对水深的影响。结果表明:(1)枯季南港沙波一般分布于吴淞口至中段121°44.′5E细砂、粉砂质底床区间,呈逐年向下游扩大的趋势,发育尺度由西向东逐渐变小,河床沉积物粒度组成由上游至下游逐渐细化,分选性变差;(2)沙波波高一般为0.2～1.31m,平均为0.47m,波高沿程向下游递减,水深均处于15m的上段波高虽最大可达1.31m,但足以通行第四代集装箱船,而水深降至11.8m的中段,最大波高可达0.80m的沙波发育将直接影响第四代集装箱船的乘潮入港条件。     

潮滩上波高的时空变化及其影响因素——以长江三角洲海岸为例

于2009—2010年的不同季节在崇明东滩北部、中部、南部以及杭州湾北岸东段的芦潮港岸段,利用目前先进的SBE 26plus浪潮仪进行了多个潮周期的波浪观测。研究表明,观测期间潮周期平均风速为1.9～11.0m/s、最大风速为2.8～12.1m/s,各测点潮周期平均水深为0.28～2.12m,高潮位最大水深为0.37～3.19m,潮周期有效波高为0.03～0.45m,最大波高为0.08～1.59m。波高的时空变化受风速、风向、水深和岸滩坡度的综合影响。通常情况下,向岸风期间的波浪较大;风速、水深、岸滩坡度越大,潮滩上的波高也越大。空间上,岸滩坡度最小的崇明东滩中部(坡度0.6‰)测点波高和水深之间的相关性最好,岸滩坡度最大的芦潮港潮滩(坡度8.7‰)测点两者间的相关性最差。时间上,波高和水深之间的相关性与风速、风向的变化有关。因此,只有在潮滩坡度较小(例如<1‰),风速、风向较为稳定时,波高和水深之间的显著正相关关系才存在。要了解某个潮滩的波浪特征,有必要利用先进的仪器进行系统的原位观测,而非简单地借助其它潮滩的波浪研究结果。研究推断,在向岸强台风和大潮高潮位阶段,崇明东滩中潮线附近的最大波高可达1.5～2.0m,芦潮港堤外潮滩的最大波高可达2m以上。     

设计彩沙示踪法研究滨海沙滩底沙运动--以厦门大学滨海沙滩为例

本文设计彩沙示踪法于厦大滨海沙滩东段进行试验 ,取得了沙粒运动方向、最大运移速度、扩散范围、沿岸输沙率及粒度分异运移状态等定量数据 ,弥补了以往示踪法难以定量分析的缺陷。结果表明 :调查期间 ,厦大滨海沙滩东段沙粒运动是构成厦门岛南岸岸滩在偏东向波浪作用下形成的西南向沿岸漂沙之一个环节 :沙粒大体平行岸线向北运动 ;沙粒沿岸最大运移速度为 2 0 0m/d ;经一个潮周期 ,沙粒向两侧的最大横向扩散距离为 2 0m ,最大垂直扩散深度达 7cm ;岸滩横断面沿岸输沙率为 42 5t/d ;在该岸段沿岸漂沙中 ,粗粒沙偏向低潮带一侧 ,而细粒沙偏向高潮带。     

黄海镆铘岛海域海草床数量分布及其生态特征

海草床是近海三大典型海洋生态系统之一,具有巨大的碳储备功能,并为众多海洋生物提供重要的栖息场所及食物来源,在维持近岸海洋生态系统平衡中发挥着重要的作用。2016年8月通过对黄海镆铘岛海域的现场调查,发现分布面积为272.84 ha的海草床主要种类为鳗草(Zostera marina)和红纤维虾形草(Phyllospadix iwatensis)。鳗草的分布面积约为177.23 ha,占总面积的65%,主要分布在镆铘岛沿岸的海参养殖池中,红纤维虾形草的分布面积约为95.61 ha,占总面积的35%,主要分布在沿岸的礁石上,呈明显的带状分布。鳗草的平均株高为(86.8±5.8)cm,平均植株密度和生物量分别为(364.0±14.2)株/m~2和(528.7±20.5)gDW/m~2;红纤维虾形草的平均株高为(112.8±3.8)cm,平均植株密度和生物量分别为(3087.0±35.4)株/m~2和(2320.0±26.6)gDW/m~2。红纤维虾形草的分布水深为(1.80±0.04)m,海草床的水体溶解氧含量较高,达到(10.4±0.1)mg/L,分布有鳗草的海参池塘的底质粒径为(4.6±0.1)mm。结合历史资料,发现该海域海草床退化现象十分严重,这除了受自然环境变化的影响外,与过度的人类活动干扰有关。并提出了海草床修复与保护的建议和对策,可为进一步研究与保护该区域海草床生态系统提供基础。     

1976年黄河改道以来三角洲近岸区变化遥感监测

通过对黄河三角洲沿岸10个河口、潮汐汉道的23景陆地卫星影像高潮线的解译与对比,探讨自1976年黄河改道以来,三角洲岸线的变化特征;同时,利用GIS软件处理1976年和1992年滨海区水深测量数据,并与黄河利津站同期入海沙量进行对照分析。结果表明：1)目前黄河三角洲总体处于侵蚀破坏阶段,侵蚀岸线长相当于淤积岸线的2倍;2)人类活动对三角洲岸线变化的影响不断增强,人工海岸长度大幅度增加,总岸线长度缩短,岸线趋于平直;3)52．6％的黄河入海泥沙堆积于入海口附近,其中92％的泥沙堆积在15m水深线以内,向外迅速减少,20m水深线以外出现侵蚀;4)87％黄河入海泥沙往东、东南方向扩散与沉积,往南、东北方向扩散与沉积的泥沙很少,河口的北、西北方向整体上处于侵蚀状态。海岸侵蚀与河口泥沙的输移密切相关。     

粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析

利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析.分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点.     

长江三角洲南翼盐沼有机质分布及来源初探

通过对长江三角洲南翼最大淤涨带钻孔柱样进行沉积有机碳(POC)、有机碳同位素组成(δ~(13)C)、总氮(TN)、粒度的测定,研究长江三角洲南翼盐沼有机质分布及来源。结果表明:POC、TN分布受控于长江入海泥沙及人类活动,有机质主要赋存于细颗粒物质中(16μm),长江入海泥沙偏粗,有机质含量降低,围垦导致物质组成趋向均一化。δ13C自陆向海方向增大,自陆向海盐沼陆相有机质比例下降,海相有机质比例上升。围垦活动使海相有机质比例上升,长江入海泥沙对盐沼发育影响力下降,但长江入海泥沙对盐沼发育仍起主导作用。此研究揭示流域水沙及人类活动对河口盐沼发育的影响,丰富海岸带研究资料。     

4种典型滨海植物的耐盐能力

滨海植物是海岸生态系统的重要组成部分,而绝大部分滨海植物的耐盐能力与生态适应机制尚不清楚,本研究选择马鞍藤(Ipomoea pescaprae)、小刀豆(Canavalia cathartica)、全缘冬青(Ilex in?tegra)、大叶银边海桐(Pittosporum pentandrum)4种滨海典型植物,通过...     

SWAN predictions of waves observed in shallow water onshore of complex bathymetry

SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0-m water depths. Although the model assumptions include small bottom slopes, the alongshore variations of the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over the steep canyon are predicted well over the 50 days of observations. For example, in 2.5-m water depth, the observed and predicted wave heights vary by up to a factor of 4 over about 1000 m alongshore, and wave directions vary by up to about 10°, sometimes changing from south to north of shore normal. Root-mean-square errors of the predicted wave heights, mean directions, periods, and radiation stresses (less than 0.13 m, 5°, 1 s, and 0.05 m³/s² respectively) are similar near and far from the canyon. Squared correlations between the observed and predicted wave heights usually are greater than 0.8 in all water depths. However, the correlations for mean directions and radiation stresses decrease with decreasing water depth as waves refract and become normally incident. Although mean wave properties observed in shallow water are predicted accurately, nonlinear energy transfers from near-resonant triads are not modeled well, and the observed and predicted wave energy spectra can differ significantly at frequencies greater than the spectral peak, especially for narrow-band swell.     

Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast

A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile.     

海陆相互作用下粤东岬湾海岸剖面的侵蚀演变

粤东海域海洋动力作用较强,平均波高0.9—1.3m,最大碎波水深5.9—10.0m,海流流速10—60cm.s-1。粤东岬湾海岸剖面中段处于侵蚀演变态势。文章基于海陆相互作用下的界面理论,阐述了在大浪或强浪情况下,碎波带波浪水动力强度最大值和底剪应力的分布及其对海底沉积物搬运和造成地形侵蚀的机理;另外,在海流作用下,海洋水团底层流速所形成的底剪应力亦可引起海底基岩侵蚀和沉积物的搬运堆积,改变地貌形态。文章最后得出岬湾海岸剖面变化的2种基本模式,即基岩海岸岬角剖面形态发育模式和湾内沉积性海岸剖面形态发育模式。前者剖面上部为陡壁,下部呈缓凹型;后者剖面为凹型,滨线有一定进退演变。     

Determining the stability of vertical breakwaters against sliding based on individual sliding distances during a storm

In this paper, the occurrence rate of caisson sliding of a vertical breakwater during a storm and the probabilistic distribution of the individual sliding distances are derived as functions of such important design variables as water depth, significant wave height, and caisson width. The expressions for various representative sliding distances such as the significant sliding distance are also derived. The derived statistical characteristics of individual sliding distances are then used for calculating the first passage probability of an allowable individual sliding distance during a storm. A method is also proposed to calculate the time-dependent first passage probability for the case where wave climate and mean water depth change with time. Finally, tentative design criteria for the allowable individual sliding distance are proposed. The proposed method is applied to fictitious breakwaters in different water depths near the Port of Hitachinaka in Japan. The time-dependent first passage probability is calculated for the next 50 years in which the wave height may increase due to climate change. The first passage probability increases as time elapses, as the water depth increases, and as the allowable individual sliding distance decreases. Comparison with a previous study that uses a performance-based design method shows that the allowable first passage probability should be in the range between 0.05 and 0.09. For the proposed method to be used in a practical design, however, more detailed study should be made to determine the allowable values of individual sliding distance, first passage probability, and representative sliding distance, by comparing with current design methods.     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

Rapid erosion of a small southern California beach fill

A winter storm eroded a small (160,000 m³) beach fill at Torrey Pines State Beach in southern California. The fill, constructed in April 2001, was a 600-m long flat-topped berm, extending from a highway revetment seaward about 80 m, terminating in a 2-m tall, near-vertical scarp. The size distributions of the preexisting and fill beach sand were similar (median ∼0.2 mm). A total of 56 cross-shore transects were surveyed between the revetment and 8 m water depth biweekly along 2.7 km of the beach centered on the fill area. During summer and fall, the incident significant wave heights measured 1 km offshore of the fill usually were below 1 m, the scarp was not overtopped, and the fill did not change greatly. The beach face alongshore of the fill accreted, consistent with the usual seasonal cycle in southern California. During a storm (3 m significant wave height) in late November, erosion began when wave uprushes overtopped the scarp and reached the relatively flat elevated fill, where the overwash flowed alongshore to initially small depressions that channeled the flow seawards. The offshore flow rapidly deepened and widened the channels, which maintained steep vertical faces and eroded by slumping. Thirty hours after the storm began, the shoreward end of the eroded channels had retreated to the highway revetment, leaving uneroded sand peninsulas protruding seawards ∼50 m from the revetment and elevated ∼1.75 m above the surrounding beach. Erosion of the beach adjacent to the fill was much less variable alongshore than within the fill region. During the next few days, the peninsulas eroded almost completely.     

斜向入反射波分离的数值模拟研究

改进了Goda分离单向入反射波频谱的方法，给出的新方法可应用于斜向入反射波的分离，且测波仪器对的方向可按任意角度布置。当两测点在入射波方向上的投影距离为入射波半波长的倍数时，该方法会出现奇异问题。建议取两测点在入射波方向上投影距离为峰频波长的0．05－0．45倍。这时可得到较好的结果。文中采用数值模拟的方法对模拟波列进行了分离，分离出的波谱与输入的靶谱基本一致，通过分离出的入反射波频谱计算出的各波面过程与输入的各过程线也基本相近，并能较准确地给出结构的反射系数，由此说明该方法是可靠的。