Predicting bed form roughness: the influence of lee side angle

Flow transverse bedforms (ripples and dunes) are ubiquitous in rivers and coastal seas. Local hydrodynamics and transport conditions depend on the size and geometry of these bedforms, as they constitute roughness elements at the bed. Bedform influence on flow energy must be considered for the understanding of flow dynamics, and in the development and application of numerical models. Common estimations or predictors of form roughness (friction factors) are based mostly on data of steep bedforms (with angle-of-repose lee slopes), and described by highly simplified bedform dimensions (heights and lengths). However, natural bedforms often are not steep, and differ in form and hydraulic effect relative to idealised bedforms. Based on systematic numerical model experiments, this study shows how the hydraulic effect of bedforms depends on the flow structure behind bedforms, which is determined by the bedform lee side angle, aspect ratio and relative height. Simulations reveal that flow separation behind bedform crests and, thus, a hydraulic effect is induced at lee side angles steeper than 11 to 18° depending on relative height, and that a fully developed flow separation zone exists only over bedforms with a lee side angle steeper than 24°. Furthermore, the hydraulic effect of bedforms with varying lee side angle is evaluated and a reduction function to common friction factors is proposed. A function is also developed for the Nikuradse roughness (k _s), and a new equation is proposed which directly relates k _s to bedform relative height, aspect ratio and lee side angle.     

Implications of bedform dimensions for the prediction of local scour in tidal inlets: a case study from the southern North Sea

The bedforms and the local scour at the base of a cylindrical pile were studied in a tidal inlet in the Wadden Sea, southern North Sea, using high-resolution multibeam bathymetry data from four surveys. The observed changes in scour and bedform dimensions were interpreted in terms of hydraulic forcings varying periodically at different time scales. It appears that bedform orientation reacts to changing flow conditions on a semidiurnal basis, whereas bedform height and steepness reflect the spring-neap cycle as well as seasonal signals. The scour depth carries a strong overprint of the semidiurnal tidal cycle, which is at a maximum during the strongest tidal flow. Subtler variations in scour depth can possibly be attributed to the spring-neap tidal cycle. Based on these data on bedform and scour dimensions, correlation functions were established between scour depth and dune height as well as dune length. In measuring the scour depth under mobile bed conditions, establishing the seabed level based on the trough level of the bedforms nearest to the scour proved useful. These findings suggest that the dimensions of bedforms in dynamic equilibrium with prevailing hydraulic flow conditions can be used to estimate scouring in tidal environments.     

Sand waves and other bedforms in lower Cook Inlet,Alaska

Abstract

Lower Cook Inlet in Alaska has high‐ tidal currents that average 3–4 knots and normally reach a peak of 6–8 knots. The bottom has an average depth of about 60–70 m in the central part of the inlet that deepens toward the south. Several types of bedforms, such as sand waves, dunes, ripples, sand ribbons, and lag deposits form a microtopography on the otherwise smooth seafloor. Each bedform type covers a small field, normally a few hundred to a few thousand meters wide, and usually several kilometers long parallel to the tidal flow. High‐resolution seismic systems, side‐scan sonar and bottom television were used to study these bedforms. Large sand waves with wavelengths over 300 m and wave heights up to 10 m were observed. Fields of ebb‐oriented or flood‐oriented asymmetric bedforms commonly grade into more symmetric shapes. Several orders of smaller sand waves and dunes cover the flanks of the very large bedforms. The crest directions of both size groups are normally parallel, but deviations of up to 90° have been observed; local deviations may occur where smaller forms approach the crests of the larger sand waves. Bottom television observations demonstrated active bedload transport in a northerly direction on crests and midflanks of southward asymmetric large sand waves, but not in their troughs. Movement of bedload occurs in the form of small ripples. Although the asymmetry of the large bedforms suggests that migration has taken place in the ebb or flood directions, the very low surface angles (2.5°‐8°) of these bedforms do not indicate regular movements. The large bedforms are probably relict features, or they migrate only under severe conditions, whereas active sand transport by ripples and smaller sand waves and dunes moves bedload back and forth with the tides. An understanding of such movements is essential for determining design criteria for offshore installations and in benthic‐faunal studies.     

Sediment dynamics on the narrow,canyon-incised and current-swept shelf of the northern KwaZulu-Natal continental shelf,South Africa

Side-scan sonar, multibeam bathymetry, Shipek^TM grab, and high- to moderate-resolution sub-bottom data for the northern KwaZulu-Natal continental shelf reveal further insights into the interactions between sediment dynamics, strong western boundary currents and submarine canyon topography. Unlike previously recognised mechanisms for bedload parting on current-swept shelves, bedload partings here are the result of complex interactions between the western boundary poleward-flowing Agulhas Current and submarine canyon topography. This has resulted in bedforms orientated orthogonally to the canyon axis, with sediments entrained equator-wards into the canyon heads before resuming their dominant southerly migration. It is in these zones of parting where the most prominent bedforms occur; these bedform fields are formed by positive feedback in the boundary layer between an increasingly undulatory Agulhas Current and a seafloor incised by regularly spaced submarine canyons. Bedform morphometrics such as wavelength–height, depth–height and distance from thalweg–height relationships show no distinct patterns, indicating that the bedforms are heavily reworked and appear to be out of equilibrium with the inherent oceanographic conditions.     

Geomorphology of a sand wave in lower Chesapeake Bay,Virginia, U.S.A.

Morphologic and sedimentologic studies of a single sand wave within a sand wave field in the lower Chesapeake Bay suggest that the bedform was originally formed by ebb currents, and is presently in static equilibrium with the circulation pattern. In this report, the concept of solitary sand wave is introduced to describe the state of a sand wave when further evolution of the sedimentary structure is mostly independent of adjacent bedforms. This concept can be applied to several bedforms in the area that are isolated from others by flats. A particular sand wave that is included in this category is discussed.Contribution number 79, Instituto Argentino de Oceanografia.     

Extraction of morphometric bedform characteristics from profiling sonar datasets recorded in shallow coastal waters of China

The morphological characteristics of small-scale bedforms were measured by means of an acoustic profiling sonar on the Dafeng tidal flat,Jiangsu,in 2009,and in the Jiulong Estuary,Xiamen,in 2010,respectively.The "multi-threshold value" method was utilized to reveal the morphological undulations along which bedforms were present.Analyses of the datasets obtained show that:(1) sand ripples can have irregular shapes,and(2) changes in bedform morphology are small within a single tidal cycle but may be significant over several tidal cycles.Fractal and variogram analyses of the seabed roughness revealed the existence of a significant relationship between current speed and the fractal dimension of the seabed roughness.As current speed increases,seabed roughness increases with a trend of smaller-scale bottom structures being replaced by larger-scale structures.Furthermore,the surface of the larger-scale bottom structures can either become smooth due to the absence of smaller-scale features or become rougher due to the presence of superimposed smaller-scale structures.     

Sea level fluctuations in central California at subtidal to decadal and longer time scales with implications for San Francisco Bay, California

Sea level elevations from near the mouth of San Francisco Bay are used to describe the low-frequency variability of forcing of the coastal ocean on the Bay at a variety of temporal scales. About 90% of subtidal fluctuations in sea level in San Francisco Bay are driven by the sea level variations in the coastal ocean that propagate into the Bay at the estuary mouth. We use the 100-year sea level record available at San Francisco to document a 1.9 mm/yr mean sea level rise, and to determine fluctuations related to El Nino-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and other climatic events. At time scales greater than 1 year, ENSO dominates the sea level signal and can result in fluctuations in sea level of 10–15 cm. Alongshore wind stress data from central California are also analyzed to determine the impact of changes in coastal elevation at the mouth of San Francisco Bay within the synoptic wind band of 2–30 days. At least 40% of the subtidal fluctuations in sea level of the Bay are tied to the large-scale regional wind field affecting sea level variations in the coastal ocean, with little local, direct wind forcing of the Bay itself. The majority of the subtidal sea level fluctuations within the Bay that are not related to the coastal ocean sea level signal are forced by an east–west sea level gradient resulting from tidally induced variations in sea level at specific beat frequencies that are enhanced in the northern reach of the Bay. River discharge into the Bay through the Sacramento and San Joaquin River Delta also contributes to the east–west gradient, but to a lesser degree.     

Quantification of dune dynamics during a tidal cycle in an inlet channel of the Danish Wadden Sea

High-resolution swath bathymetry measurements at centimetre-scale precision conducted during a tidal cycle in the Grådyb tidal inlet channel in the Danish Wadden Sea reveal the short-term dynamics of a large, ebb-directed compound dune with superimposed small to medium dunes, all composed of medium sand. Dune dynamics were related to simultaneous measurements of flow using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. Spatially, dune crests displayed greater mobility than did dune troughs, due to higher flow velocities at the crests than in the troughs. Temporally, superimposed lower lee-side dunes migrated more during the flood than the ebb tide, due to higher near-bed trough flow velocities during the flood phase, resulting in varying exposure to flow. Net dune migration was flood-directed over the tidal cycle, despite annual net migration being ebb-directed. Hence, extrapolation of short-term migration rates is not possible in this case. The superimposed dunes reversed direction during each half tidal cycle whereas the compound dune only developed a flood cap during flood tide, i.e. the time required for complete reversal of the compound dune was much longer than that available in a half tidal cycle. Over the tidal cycle, the bed level was stable but significant erosion and accretion occurred during the tidal phases. During the ebb tide, bed material was brought into suspension with accelerating flow and settled with decelerating flow, resulting in an average erosion and accretion of the bed of ~7 cm in each case. During the flood tide, the bed of the compound dune was overall stable, although bed material was eroded from the exposed lower lee side, being partly transported to the crest in bedload and partly brought into suspension. In general, dune height fluctuated during the tidal cycle whereas dune length remained stable. The height of the compound dune responded to changes in water depth, which acts as a limiting factor to dune growth. By contrast, the height of the stoss-side dunes responded to flow velocity, i.e. the stoss-side dunes were water depth-independent.     

Sedimentary geology of the Columbia River Estuary

A multiyear study of the sedimentary geology of the Columbia River Estuary has provided valuable data regarding sediment distribution, bedform distribution, and suspended sediment distribution on spatial and temporal scales that permit delineation of sedimentary environments and insight into the sedimentary processes that have shaped the estuary. In comparison to other more-intensively studied estuaries in North America, the Columbia River estuary has relatively larger tidal range (maximum semidiurnal range of 3.6m) and large riverflow (6,700m³s⁻¹). Variations in riverflow, sediment supply, and tidal flow occur over a range of time scales, making the study of modern processes, as they relate to long-term effects, particularly challenging.Analyses of more than 2000 bottom-sediment grab samples indicate that the bed material of the estuary varies in a relatively narrow range between 0 and 8 phi (1.0 and 0.0039mm) with an overall mean size of 2.5 phi (0.177mm). Sediment size decreases generally in the downstream direction. Sediments from the upriver channels are coarse (1.5–2.0phi; 0.25–0.35mm) and moderately sorted; sediments in the central estuary show wider range and variation in grain size and sorting (1.75–6.0phi; 0.016–0.3mm). Sediment from the entrance region has a mean size of 2.75phi (0.149mm) and is well sorted. Seasonal changes in sediment size distributions occur and are best delineated by those samples containing more than 10% mud (silt plus clay). Sediments containing a significant fine fraction generally occur only in the peripheral bays and in channels isolated from strong currents. Thin deposits of fine sediments are occasionally found in main channels, and the ephemeral nature of these sediments suggest that they may erode and produce the silty rip-up clasts that appear intermittently in the same regions.The distribution of bedforms of various size and shape has been mapped with side-scan sonar during three seasons and at various tidal stages. The presence of bedforms with wavelengths of 6–8m and alternating slip faces about 40cm high indicates that the deeper portion of the entrance region is dominated by tidally reversing lower flow regime sediment transport. Bedforms in the upper reaches of the estuary are much larger, with heights of up to 3m and wavelengths of up to 100m. These bedforms, and the smaller, superimposed bedforms, imply downstream transport under fluvial conditions. In the central estuary, bedforms in the deep portion of the main channels are oriented upriver while those on the shallow flanks of the channels are oriented seaward. The landward limit of upriver bedform transport varies seasonally in response to riverflow fluctuations.A complex array of sedimentary environments exists in the Columbia River estuary. Each environment is influenced by the relative importance of waves, fluvial currents, and tidal currents, as modified by the presence or absence of estuarine circulation, vegetation, or human activity. The importance of these enviroments to the ecosystem of the estuary is discussed in subsequent papers in this volume.     

Anthropogenic influences on shoreline and nearshore evolution in the San Francisco Bay coastal system

Analysis of four historical bathymetric surveys over a 132-year period has revealed significant changes to the morphology of the San Francisco Bar, an ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of San Francisco Bay estuary. From 1873 to 2005 the San Francisco Bar vertically-eroded an average of 80 cm over a 125 km² area, which equates to a total volume loss of 100 ± 52 million m³ of fine- to coarse-grained sand. Comparison of the surveys indicates the entire ebb-tidal delta contracted radially, with the crest moving landward an average of 1 km. Long-term erosion of the ebb-tidal delta is hypothesized to be due to a reduction in the tidal prism of San Francisco Bay and a decrease in coastal sediment supply, both as a result of anthropogenic activities. Prior research indicates that the tidal prism of the estuary was reduced by 9% from filling, diking, and sedimentation. Compilation of historical records dating back to 1900 reveals that a minimum of 200 million m³ of sediment has been permanently removed from the San Francisco Bay coastal system through dredging, aggregate mining, and borrow pit mining. Of this total, ∼54 million m³ of sand-sized or coarser sediment was removed from central San Francisco Bay. With grain sizes comparable to the ebb-tidal delta, and its direct connection to the bay mouth, removal of sediments from central San Francisco Bay may limit the sand supply to the delta and open coast beaches.     

Mine Burial Experiments at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory

Several experiments to measure postimpact burial of seafloor mines by scour and fill have been conducted near the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution's Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO, Edgartown, MA). The sedimentary environment at MVCO consists of a series of rippled scour depressions (RSDs), which are large scale bedforms with alternating areas of coarse and fine sand. This allows simultaneous mine burial experiments in both coarse and fine sand under almost identical hydrodynamic forcing conditions. Two preliminary sets of mine scour burial experiments were conducted during winters 2001-2002 in fine sand and 2002-2003 in coarse sand with a single optically instrumented mine in the field of view of a rotary sidescan sonar. From October 2003 to April of 2004, ten instrumented mines were deployed along with several sonar systems to image mine behavior and to characterize bedform and oceanographic processes. In fine sand, the sonar imagery of the mines revealed that large scour pits form around the mines during energetic wave events. Mines fell into their own scour pits, aligned with the dominant wave crests and became level with the ambient seafloor after several energetic wave events. In quiescent periods, after the energetic wave events, the scour pits episodically infilled with mud. After several scour and infilling events, the scour pits were completely filled and a layer of fine sand covered both the mines and the scour pits, leaving no visible evidence of the mines. In the coarse sand, mines were observed to bury until the exposed height above the ripple crests was approximately the same as the large wave orbital ripple height (wavelengths of 50-125 cm and heights of 10-20 cm). A hypothesis for the physical mechanism responsible for this partial burial in the presence of large bedforms is that the mines bury until they present roughly the same hydrodynamic roughness as the orbital-scale bedforms present in coarse sand.     

Characterization of bedform morphology generated under combined flows and currents using wavelet analysis

The wavelet transform (WT) has been successfully implemented in many fields such as signal and image processing, communication theory, optics, numerical analysis, and fluid mechanics. However, the application of WT to describe bedform morphology in coastal areas, oceans, and rivers is rare. The present study demonstrates the capability of WT analysis to fully represent the space–frequency characteristics of signals describing bed topography generated in marine and river environments. In this study WT is used to examine the morphological characteristics of bedforms generated in two separate laboratory facilities: a wave tank and a meandering channel. In the wave tank a set of ripples superimposed upon large wave ripples were generated; while in the meandering channel, 2D and 3D migrating ripples and dunes were observed. The WT proved to be a useful tool in detecting the complex variability of the generated bedform structures. The size distribution of the bottom features such as ripples, large wave ripples and sandbars were first examined along a 2D bed profile. Later analysis studied the variability of features in the transverse direction by using the power Hovmöller. Experiments in the wave tank were conducted for a mobility number of ψ=(10, 28), and a Reynolds wave number of R_ew=(17,500, 83,500) which correspond to waves alone (WA) and to combined flow (CF) scenarios, respectively. Experiments in the meandering channel were conducted under a morphological regime that produced mainly migrating sandbars.     

Boundary roughness and bedforms in the surf zone

Hydrodynamical models of the nearshore system frequently assume that a single friction coefficient is sufficient to represent flow conditions at a point in the surf zone. Furthermore, models attempting to relate bed configuration to surf zone flows have relied primarily upon the wave orbital velocity as an indicator of potential bedforms, and thus as the control on boundary roughness. The data presented here point out potential errors arising from either of these approaches. The results of a field experiment conducted at Wendake Beach, Ontario, show that at a single location in an active surf zone, the Darcy-Weisbach friction coefficient, f, varied by approximately 250% (in this case between 0.016 and 0.041).

It is also shown that existing bedform models, based upon primary wave motions alone, do not accurately predict conditions at this study site. For a relatively constant wave orbital velocity and velocity asymmetry, it is found that changes in bed roughness, as a result of bedform development, are reflected mainly in the vertical profile of the long-shore current velocity. A sequence of bedforms, from oscillatory ripples through flat bed, is inferred from the data, and found to be supported by diver observations and preserved primary sedimentary structures.     

The effect of bedforms (crest and trough systems) on sediment erodibility on a back-barrier tidal flat of the East Frisian Wadden Sea, Germany

The erosion potential over bedforms in a tidal flat of the East Frisian Wadden Sea was studied by conducting erosion and physical and biological sediment property measurements on the crests and troughs of bedforms. Five stations along a cross-shore transect of 1.5 km length from immediately below the salt marsh to the mid tide-level of the tidal flat were visited during two field campaigns in June and September 2002. Measurements of sediment erodibility were made on both crests and troughs using an EROMES erosion device and quantified in terms of critical erosion shear stress and erosion rate. Surface sediment scrape samples (upper 1 mm layer) were taken from crests and troughs to determine various physical and biological properties of the sediment. The results show that crests are generally more stable (i.e. higher critical erosion shear stresses and lower erosion rates) than troughs. In general, crests contained more chlorophyll a, colloidal carbohydrate, and EPS (extracellular polymeric substance) than troughs. Median grain-size, water content and wet bulk density of the crests showed no statistically significant difference from those of the troughs with the exception at the most landward station immediately below the salt marsh margin, where crests had significantly lower water content and higher wet bulk density than troughs.Two different processes were identified for the difference in erodibility between crests and troughs: (1) At stations with emersion times less than 6 h, the higher benthic diatom biomass (measured as chlorophyll a concentration) on the crests increases the amount of EPS, which is likely to stabilize the sediment surface of these features; (2) in a saltmarsh transition area (most landward station), physical processes such as surface drying and compaction seem to enhance in a synergistic way the sediment stability on the crests.     

Transport and distribution of bacteria and diatoms in the aqueous surface microlayer of a salt marsh

The effects of tide and wind upon the distribution and transport of bacteria and diatoms in the aqueous surface microlayers of a Massachusetts and San Francisco Bay salt marsh were examined. The compression of the surface films by both tide and wind resulted in significant enrichments of bacterioneuston. At the San Francisco Bay site, significant numbers of diatoms were transported within the microlayer over a tidal cycle.     

Sorted bedforms on the inner shelf off northeastern New Zealand: spatiotemporal relationships and potential paleo-environmental implications

Sorted bedforms are heterogeneous shelf seabed features found ubiquitously on the inner shelf of New Zealand and around the world. In this study we examine the shallow stratigraphy of sorted bedforms using diver-collected short cores together with the textural analysis of the associated surface sediments in the Tairua-Pauanui embayment on the northeast coast of the North Island of New Zealand. Combining sonar and textural analysis together with the local oceanographic conditions provides new insight into the interpretation of sorted bedform features. In this regional case study, sorted bedforms are found to have a stratigraphic signature characterized by alternating fine and coarse sequences that does not reflect alternating calm (low-energy) and storm (high-energy) cycles. Instead, the core sequences suggest the signature of a heterogeneous inner shelf sedimentary facies developed from morphodynamic feedback mechanisms operating at the scale of the bottom boundary layer. The resulting sedimentary sequence (alternating coarse and fine units) found throughout this study site is the result of contemporaneous sorting processes.     

Regional-scale seafloor mapping and geohazard assessment. The experience from the Italian project MaGIC (Marine Geohazards along the Italian Coasts)

Recent developments in seafloor imaging and mapping techniques greatly improved our capability of identifying marine geohazards affecting continental margins. Geomorphic features can be detected in great detail by high-resolution multibeam imaging and regarded as geohazard indicators; the most common include slide scars and deposits, canyon headscarps and steep erosional flanks, fault-related seafloor unevenness, mud volcanoes, pockmarks, gravity flow deposits, erosional scours and bedforms indicating sediment mobility at diverse temporal/spatial scale. These processes are widespread on Italian continental margins and are potential indicators of geohazard for human settlements and infrastructures in the offshore and coastal zones. The national Project MaGIC (Marine Geohazards along the Italian Coasts) aims at documenting potential geohazards based on the acquisition of high-resolution multibeam bathymetry and on the production of maps of the geohazard-related geomorphic features for most of the Italian continental margins. With reference to this issue, we discuss some of the most frequent problems dealing with reconnaissance, interpretation and cartographic representation of geohazard-related geomorphic features at a regional scale.     

Sediment organic matter composition and dynamics in San Francisco Bay, California, USA: Seasonal variation and interactions between water column chlorophyll and the benthos

Sediment and water column data from four sites in North, Central and South San Francisco Bays were collected monthly from November 1999 through November 2001 to investigate the seasonal variation of benthic organic matter and chlorophyll in channel sediments, the composition and quality of sediment organic matter (SOM), and the relationship between seasonal patterns in benthic organic matter and patterns in water column chlorophyll. Water column chlorophyll peaked in the spring of 2000 and 2001, characteristic of other studies of San Francisco Bay phytoplankton dynamics, however an unusual chlorophyll peak occurred in fall 2000. Cross-correlation analysis revealed that water column chlorophyll at these four channel sites lead sediment parameters by an average of 2 to 3 months. Sediment organic matter levels in the San Francisco Bay channel showed seasonal cycles that followed patterns of water column production: peaks in water column chlorophyll were followed by later peaks in sediment chlorophyll and organic matter. Cyclical, seasonal variations also occurred in sediment organic matter parameters with sediment total organic carbon (TOC) and total nitrogen (TN) being highest in spring and lowest in winter, and sediment amino acids being highest in spring and summer and lowest in winter. Sediment chlorophyll, total organic carbon, and nitrogen were generally positively correlated with each other. Sediment organic matter levels were lowest in North Bay, intermediate in Central Bay, and highest in South Bay. C:N ratio and the ratio of enzyme hydrolyzable amino acids to TOC (EHAA:TOC) data suggest that SOM quality is more labile in Central and northern South Bay, and more refractory in North Bay and southern South Bay.     

Multitrack surveying of large bedforms

Data are presented from multitrack surveys of large, sandy bedforms in the Fraser River estuary, Canada. A detailed contour map and block diagram provide information on three-dimensional bedform geometry that could not be obtained using conventional survey methods. The technique has implications for estimation of bedload transport and for bedform classification.     

Application of a two-dimensional depth-averaged hydrodynamic tidal model

A two-dimensional hydrodynamic model application to the San Francisco Bay was performed using the Boundary-Fitted HYDROdynamic model (BFHYDRO). The model forcing functions consist of tidal elevations along the open boundary and fresh water flows from the Delta Outflow. The model-predicted surface elevations compare well with the observed surface elevations at five stations in San Francisco Bay. Mean error in the model predicted surface elevations and currents are less than 7 and 9%, respectively. Correlation coefficients for surface elevations and currents are higher than 0.94 and 0.95, respectively. The amplitudes and phases of the principal tidal constituents at 24 tidal stations in San Francisco Bay, obtained from a harmonic analysis of a 90-day simulation compare well with the observed data. The predicted amplitude and phase of the M₂ tidal constituent at these stations are respectively within 8 cm and 8° of the observed data. Maximum errors in the K₁ harmonic amplitudes and phases are less than 3 cm and 7° respectively. The asymmetric diurnal and semi-diurnal tidal ranges and spring and neap tidal cycles of the surface elevations and currents are well reproduced in the model at all stations.