岬间海滩泥沙输运趋势与剖面分形研究

根据1999年7月实测的粤东岬间海滩沉积与地形变化资料,采用沉积物输运概率模式(McLaren模型)对海滩沿岸泥沙运移趋势进行探讨。结果表明,在常波况条件下海滩沿岸泥沙向偏南方向运移,在高能条件下可能出现与常波况条件下相反运动的趋势。进一步利用分形分布模型研究了海滩剖面的分形性质,提出了岬间海滩剖面地形变化的短期分形预测模型。     

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.     

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

砾石堤坝和多孔方型鱼礁消浪护滩的试验研究——以北戴河西海滩为例

本文通过物理模型试验,研究了砾石堤坝、多孔方型鱼礁、堤坝+鱼礁等不同防护措施对岸滩的保护作用。通过测量不同防护措施的波浪透射系数、输沙率、水下坡度角及床面地形变化,并与无防护措施的工况进行对比,结果发现：不同试验条件下堤坝+鱼礁工况的透射系数仅为0.21～0.36,对波浪具有显著的消减作用;同一水位不同防护措施下的输沙率由大变小依次为：堤坝、堤坝+鱼礁、无工程、鱼礁;堤坝迎浪面的水下坡度角随极限波高呈现先增大、后减小的趋势,堤坝工况的水下坡度角约是堤坝+鱼礁工况的2～4倍;对于近岸的地形恢复,堤坝+鱼礁工况的效果比较明显,且对岸滩附近的侵蚀较少。堤坝+鱼礁的防护措施可明显减小波浪的透射系数,增加向岸输沙率,对恢复近岸地形、保护岸滩有显著作用。     

广西万尾岛金滩沿岸输沙计算与分析

依据CERC公式,年内代表浪向作用下,广西万尾岛金滩平直岸滩中部泥沙分别向东西两侧净输沙,意味着金滩中部有淘刷趋势而两端有淤积趋势,而实际上岸滩中部滩面长年基本稳定、未有明显侵蚀现象。分析认为公式计算成果反映的输沙特征定性仍然是正确的,岸滩能够维持稳定是因为还存在自海向岸的横向输沙补给沙源。当岸滩并非平直且足够长时,应完整分析纵、横向输沙才能更为合理地反映岸滩泥沙运动特征。     

Grain Size Analysis and Depositional Environment Condition along the Beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari,Southern Tamilnadu Coast,India

Textural analysis is the epicenter of any sedimentological research. Granulometric analyses of unconsolidated sediments are used as an index to decipher the depositional environment. The granulometric analysis display a significant fluctuation in mean size, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis due to the variation in wave energy and the extent of turbulence affecting the beach environment during the crosshore and alongshore movement of sediments. The present study is to document the variation in grain size distribution within foreshore sediments, i.e., between the high water line and the plunge point wherein the sediments are deposited under different wave energy conditions.     

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。     

近岸人工沙坝的剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制研究综述

近岸人工沙坝养滩是一种重要的海滩养护手段,开展人工沙坝地形演变研究是海岸带保护修复工程的重要需求。本文围绕不同动力条件下的人工沙坝横向迁移规律、形态演变模式、地貌耦合规律和水沙运动机制等理论层面,以及人工沙坝平衡剖面描述和演变过程数值模拟等方法层面,总结了近年来关于人工沙坝剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制的国内外研究进展,并提出了关键过程机理深化、模拟预测方法改进和实际养滩工程应用等方面的今后研究重点。     

青岛市浮山湾、汇泉湾、崂山湾海滩与海底沉积环境分析

距今12000a，世界洋面已上升至今日海面以下60m处。而后海面继续回升，在距今6000a时，海面已上升到比今日海面还要高3～4m的位置，这就是汇泉广场下面存在海相地层的原因。也是唠山太清官门前存在干枯小泻湖的原因。大约在距今6000a时，青岛市的浮山湾、汇泉湾、唠山湾已经形成，并在海湾中，形成最初的海湾沉积。自那时以来，崂山湾变化不大；而浮山湾、汇泉湾则发生明显的变化。浮山湾展示为宽阔的沙滩形态，自上世纪60年代在燕儿岛建立船厂以来，大面积的沙滩已经消失。目前所见海岸完全为人造海岸，现已不存在海滩。汇泉湾与汇泉广场的填平有关，早期的海岸线，有可能到达中山公园的院墙一带。现在所见的第一海滨浴场也是人为建设所致。     

海滩泥沙促淤防冲技术研究进展与展望

将海滩泥沙的促淤防冲技术方法按结构物的型式分为3大类:实体不透水型、生态型和其他新颖结构型式。分别阐述了这3类型式的作用机理以及应用中应考虑的主要因素;结合这3类技术在海岸工程中的应用实例及其效果分析,分别总结其优缺点。介绍了促淤防冲技术的最新发展动态,指出安全、经济、高效和环保是其发展趋势,建议采用施工易、造价低和阻水小的结构和轻质材料。     

Siltation Prediction for Navigation Channels and Harbour Basins on Muddy Beach

- This paper, after briefly reviewing the experimental research on sediment transport on muddy beach since the 1950s, improves and perfects the method for forecasting siltation in navigation channels and harbour basins which was first put forward in China by the authors. In consideration of silty sediment and sand, some factors in forecasting methods have been changed and modified. Consequently, the modified methods can be used either to compute siltation in navigation channels and harbour basins on muddy beach or to compute siltation and scouring in navigation channels and harbour basins on both silty beach and sandy beach. The verification of field data from eleven large, medium and small natural harbours shows a good agreement between the forecasting by the modified method and the natural conditions. Finally, the paper deals with the rational utilization of water area after the construction of the West Dyke in Lianyungang, the maintenance of water depth of the navigation channel at the entrance, siltation distribution, siltation in the navigation channel and harbour basin for ships of 100 thousand tonnnage. Results once again prove that the prospect of constructing Lianyungang Harbour into a deepwater harbour is bright.     

Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements

We observed the onshore migration (3.5 m/day) of a nearshore sandbar at Tairua Beach, New Zealand during 4 days of low-energy wave conditions. The morphological observations, together with concurrent measurements of waves and suspended sediment concentrations, were used to test a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore model. Because of the coarse bed material and the relatively low-energy conditions, the contribution of the suspended transport to the total transport was predicted and observed to be negligible. The model predicted the bar to move onshore because of the feedback between near-bed wave skewness, bedload, and the sandbar under weakly to non-breaking conditions at high tide. The predicted bathymetric evolution contrasts, however, with the observations that the bar migrated onshore predominantly at low tide. Also, the model flattened the bar, while in the observations the sandbar retained its steep landward-facing flank. A comparison between available observations and numerical simulations suggests that onshore propagating surf zone bores in very shallow water (< 0.25 m) may have been responsible for most of the observed bar behaviour. These processes are missing from the applied model and, given that the observed conditions can be considered typical of very shallow sandbars, highlight a priority for further field study and model development. The possibility that the excess water transported by the bores across the bar was channelled alongshore to near-by rip-channels further implies that traditional cross-shore measures to judge the applicability of a cross-shore morphodynamic model may be misleading.     

An Efficient Tool for Wave Climate Analysis in European Coastal Waters

Abstract. We describe a software system that allows even an inexperienced user to estimate the wave statistics at any location along the European coastal zone. The system is composed of a solid, well verified data set, a geographical tool, a modelling section and a statistical package. Their use is fully transparent to the user.     

楮岛沙滩不同时间尺度变化特征与波能流密度相关性探讨

在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现：楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值（选取数据采集前15 d的波浪条件参与计算）与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。     

黄河三角洲飞雁滩动力特征与地形剖面塑造

飞雁滩是1964年1月至1976年5月黄河尾闾由刁口流路入海形成的黄河亚三角洲。自1976年黄河改走清水沟入海后,飞雁滩岸滩发生强烈侵蚀后退。以20世纪70年代开始的地形固定断面观测资料、2004年4月现场水文泥沙及沉积物取样资料为基础,地形剖面后退距离作为统计参数,并根据实测资料计算了潮流和波浪底摩阻流速的横向分布,分布和沉积物结构方面解释了飞雁滩典型剖面的变化特征。30a来飞雁滩岸滩地形剖面经历了"快速后退侵蚀-慢速调整-波动触发"的变化过程,这也正是其三角洲前缘侵蚀逐渐消失过程。沉积物抗冲性强弱是剖面蚀退速度变化的主要原因,水动力条件的变化改变了不同阶段的地形剖面最大蚀退量水深范围与闭合深度。风暴潮仍是今后海滩地形剖面演变的触发动力。     

黄河三角洲飞雁滩动力特征与地形剖面塑造

飞雁滩是1964年1月至1976年5月黄河尾闾由刁口流路入海形成的黄河亚三角洲。自1976年黄河改走清水沟入海后,飞雁滩岸滩发生强烈侵蚀后退。以20世纪70年代开始的地形固定断面观测资料、2004年4月现场水文泥沙及沉积物取样资料为基础,地形剖面后退距离作为统计参数,并根据实测资料计算了潮流和波浪底摩阻流速的横向分布,从动力分布和沉积物结构方面解释了飞雁滩典型剖面的变化特征。30a来飞雁滩岸滩地形剖面经历了“快速后退侵蚀——慢速调整——波动触发”的变化过程,这也正是其三角洲前缘侵蚀逐渐消失过程。沉积物抗冲性强弱是剖面蚀退速度变化的主要原因,水动力条件的变化改变了不同阶段的地形剖面最大蚀退量水深范围与闭合深度。风暴潮仍是今后海滩地形剖面演变的触发动力。     

岬湾海滩灾后恢复过程与主控影响因子研究以澳洲Narrabeen海滩为例

位于澳洲悉尼附近的Narrabeen海滩经历着较频繁的风暴浪侵袭,在鲜有人工干预下,该海滩具有从风暴期间的沙坝剖面到常浪期稳定的滩肩剖面交替演变的自适应特征。为探明Narrabeen海滩在经历风暴浪后的自恢复动力,本文通过该海滩多年连续实测资料,分析典型风暴浪过后海滩剖面在常浪作用下的演变规律以及在恢复过程中的主要水动力要素。研究结果表明：Narrabeen海滩的恢复速率存在沿岸差异,沙滩中部恢复速率最快;在常年SE浪向主导下,小波高长周期波浪对北部以及中部剖面的恢复起促进作用,而潮动力对南部剖面在恢复期内的动态响应调控作用更强。本文据此提出考虑潮差的累积波能概念,发现其与南部海滩恢复能力间有良好的相关性。经调查,地形造成的浪向变化以及各剖面的地质地貌特征是造成该岬湾海滩恢复效率和恢复动力空间差异性的主要原因。此外,从年际时间尺度看,风暴剖面的恢复能力还受控于南方涛动因子。本文的研究方法和结论可为在极端海洋动力下岬湾海滩的防灾减灾和灾后修复提供有益借鉴。     

飘袋式捕沙器试制及其应用研究

介绍新近试制的飘袋式捕沙器的结构、测量原理、操作方法和输沙率计算程序。在湄洲岛客运码头附近沙滩的应用研究结果表明 ,该种捕沙器可用于现场实测由各种波生流或其它复杂水动力因素产生的沙质沉积物的迁移速率。这对于难以应用模拟计算法取得沉积物输沙率的复杂环境滨海区 ,提供了一种较好的实测方法     

长江口悬沙动力特征与输运模式

本项研究用ADCP在长江河口进行高频、高分辨率三维流速和声学浊度的定点观测,通过对定点站位潮周期内的悬沙浓度、流速和盐度的分析,计算悬沙输运率;悬沙输运机制分析表明平流作用、斯托克斯漂移效应在悬沙输运中占据主导地位.此外,从河口内向河口外,潮周期内的水动力特征与悬沙净输运具有明显的地域性差异,主要表现在悬沙输送的贡献因子、盐度的垂向混合和分布特征、垂向流速等方面.在拦门沙下游和口外地区,悬沙均向西、北方向输送,而拦门沙上游则向东、南方向输送.这种悬沙输运格局,对于长江口拦门沙及附近最大浑浊带的形成有着重要的作用.