Reflection and breaking of internal waves on a sloping beach

The reflection and breaking of internal waves on a sloping beach were studied in a small wavetank filled with water and petroleum. The dependence of the reflection coefficient of the internal waves on wave steepness and on beach slope is found to be very similar to that of surface waves. The reflection coefficient is small for the very gentle slope, increases rapidly as the slope increases, and becomes almost constant for the steep slope. The reflection coefficient decreases with increase of the wave steepness. Also, the transition slope at which the coefficient curve has the maximum gradient increases with increase of the wave steepness. Breaking pattern of the internal waves is classified into four types; breaking, semi-breaking, wrinkle-generating, and non-breaking. Their dependence on beach slope and wave steepness is examined. The regular sequence of the four breaking types from breaking to non-breaking is observed with decrease of wave steepness or with increase of beach slope.     

Classification of “siome”, streaks and fronts

Siome, which was firstly defined by Uda (1938); is a line of convergence on the sea surface. There are many kinds of siome in the sea. I propose in this paper that siome should be classified into streak and front. Streak is defined as the convergence within the same water mass and front the convergence between two different water masses. Streaks and fronts are classified into more details on the basis of their mechanisms of generation. The proposed classification will be useful for understanding the dynamics of siome and should help to promote interdisciplinary studies around siome regions.     

Practical Formulas for Intercoupling of Pressure and Depth in the Black Sea

On the basis of the generalization of the concept of standard ocean to the Black Sea, we deduce practical formulas for the conversion of pressure into depth and vice versa depending on the latitude of the place with regard for the equation of state for 1980. The error of these relations for the standard Black Sea (whose salinity is equal to 22.2 at a temperature of +9°C from the surface to the bottom) does not exceed ±0.2m and ±0.2dbar. The difference between the practical and actual depths in winter and summer periods does not exceed ±0.35m for depths varying within range 0–2000m. The proposed practical formulas enable one to simplify the procedure of rapid evaluation of depth (or pressure) in real time by excluding the procedure of integration over a specific volume.     

On trajectories of Rossby wave-packets released in a lateral shear flow

The problem of reflexion and critical level absorption of barotropic non-divergent Rossby waves in a lateral shear flow is considered with a ray tracing method. The results are compared with those of a normal mode approach. Some oceanographical applications are suggested.     

Occurrence of small “Trigger” meanders in the Kuroshio off Southern Kyushu

Current path records of the Kuroshio off southern Japan have been examined for the period 1960–1977. Together with previously published results (S.Yoshida, 1961;Shoji, 1972) this evidence indicates that all major changes in the path of the Kuroshio off Cape Shiono were preceded by the formation of a small trigger meander off Kyushu and its downstream propagation to Cape Shiono. The periods of occurrence of these trigger meanders, most of which decay without propagating downstream, are documented. Small meanders off Kyushu occur throughout the year, but all of those which triggered changes off Cape Shiono were initially generated in the period January–April.Contribution No. 4 of the Pacific International Research Association.     

Nonlinearity of the horizontal velocity field under wind-waves

Using the data from a wind-tunnel experiment, bispectra of orbital-motions of wind-waves and of turbulence are calculated, and nonlinear interaction of wind-waves with turbulence in water are discussed. The wind-waves or the orbital motions of them, at first, produce the turbulence coherent with themselves, and then this coherent turbulence changes to the turbulence noncoherent with wind-waves. Nonlinearity of the velocity fluctuations in the surface layer in water under wind-waves is almost due to the nonlinear energy transfer from the orbital motions of wind-waves to the coherent turbulence. The vertical variations of the power spectra and of the normalized bispectra suggest that the wind driven currents near the surface play an important role in the process from orbital motion of wind-waves to noncoherent turbulence.     

Variability of the axial morphology and of the gravity structure along the Central Spreading Ridge (North Fiji Basin): evidence for contrasting thermal regimes

The Central Spreading Ridge (CSR) is located in the central part of the North Fiji Basin, a complex back-arc basin created 12 Ma ago between the Pacific and Indo-Australian plates. The 3.5 Ma old CSR is the best developed, for both structure and magmatism, of all the spreading centers identified in the basin, and may be one of the largest spreading systems of the west Pacific back-arc basins. It is more than 800 km long and 50–60 km wide, and has been intensively explored during the French-Japanese STARMER project (1987–1991).The CSR is segmented into three first order segments named, from north to south, N160°, N15° and N-S according to their orientation. This segmentation pattern is similar to that found at mid-ocean ridges. The calculated spreading rate is intermediate and ranges from 83 mm/yr at 20°30 S to 50 mm/yr at 17°S. In addition, there is a change in the axial ridge morphology and gravity structure between the northern and southern sections of the CSR. The axial morphology changes from a deep rift valley (N160° segment), to a dome split by an axial graben (N15° segment) and to a rectangular flat top high (N-S segment). The Mantle Bouguer Anomalies obtained on the northern part of the CSR (N160°/N15° segments) show bull's eye structures associated with mantle upwelling at the 16°50S triple junction and also in the middle of the segments. The Mantle Bouguer Anomalies of the southern part of the ridge (N-S segment) are more homogeneous and consistent with the observed smooth topography associated with axial isostatic compensation.At these intermediate spreading rates the contrast in bathymetry and gravity structure between the segments may reflect differences in heat supply. We suggest that the N160° and N15° segments are cold with respect to the hot N-S segment. We use a non-steady-state thermal model to test this hypothesis. In this model, the accretion is simulated as a nearly steady-state seafloor spreading upon which are superimposed periodic thermal inputs. With the measured spreading rate of 50 mm/yr, a cooling cycle of 200,000 yr develops a thermal state that permits to explain the axial morphology and gravity structure observed on the N160° segment. A spreading rate of 83 mm/yr and a cooling cycle of 120,000 yr would generate the optimal thermal structure to explain the characteristics of the N-S segment. The boundaries between the hot N-S segment and its cold bounding segments are the 18°10 S and 20°30 S propagating rifts. A heat propagation event along the N-S segment at the expense of the adjacent colder failing segments, can explain the sharp changes in the observed morphology and structure between the segments.     

A stratigraphic and tectonofacies framework of the “calcari aLucina” in the Apennine Chain,Italy

The Apennine Chain provides the first example of stratigraphic (time) and synsedimentary tectonic (space) distribution of the calcari aLucina Miocene equivalents of modern cold-vent carbonates. Chemosynthetic faunal assemblages and related carbonate deposits are found at different stratigraphic levels, with peaks during Langhian-Serravallian and late Tortonian-early Messinian times. A general increase in frequency and volume occurs with time. A genetic link between venting and the Messinian Evaporite event is difficult to demonstrate. However,Lucina limestones are limited to preevaporitic times, and their maximum abundance is reached just before the onset of the Messinian Evaporite accumulation.Lucina limestones occur in almost all tectofacies of the orogen, from backland to foreland.     

Bispectra of wind-waves and wave-wave interaction

Bispectra of wind-waves in wind tunnels were calculated in order to understand the characteristics of the nonlinear wave-wave interaction in actual wind-wave field. It is shown that the nonlinearity in wind-waves increases in magnitude with the development of wind-waves and that the characteristics of nonlinearity in wind-waves in the early stage of development differ from those in the late stage. It is shown that the bispectra are classified into five types (IV), and that the bispectral type changes from the type I to the type V as the wind-waves develop from the stage of the initial-wavelets to that of the sea-waves. The relations between frequencies of the component waves interacting each other are discussed in each bispectral type.     

Numerical computations of the storm surges in tosa bay

The storm surges which occurred in Tosa Bay in August 21, 1970 were numerically simulated. First of all NOAA's model SPLASH (Special Program to List Amplitudes of Surges from Hurricanes) was used and the effects of the typhoon's parameters, the bottom topography, the coastal configuration and the coordinate systems of storm surges were examined. SPLASH was then modified to suit computations of storm surges in the open sea and open boundary conditions were studied. Finally a two layer model was developed and the effects of the two layer system on surges were investigated.     

Benthic boundary layer processes in coastal environments: An introduction

This special issue ofGeo-Marine Letters Benthic Boundary Layer Processes in Coastal Environments includes 20 papers devoted to results of recent near-shore experiments supported by the Coastal Benthic Boundary Layer (CBBL) program. Experiments were conducted in gas-rich muddy sediments of Eckernförde Bay of the Baltic Sea and on relict sandy sediments of the West Florida Sand Sheet. In this introductory paper we present scientific justification for experiments and summarize preliminary results.     

Some characteristics of the development process of the wind-wave spectrum

The development process of wind-waves of which spectral peak distributes from 0.6 cps to 9.3 cps will be discussed on the basis of the wind tunnel experiments and of the field observations performed at Lake Biwa. The characteristics of power and slope spectra are here presented. The development process of these wind-waves is characterized by three stages;i.e. initial-wavelets, transition stage and sea-waves. In the wind tunnel experiments, the transition from the stage of the initial-wavelets to the transition stage occurs when the wave spectral peak arrives at the line 6.40×10^–4 k ^–2cm²·sec (wherek is wave number) or when the slope spectral density at the frequencyf _max becomes larger than 6.40×10^–4 sec. In the stage of sea-waves, the component wave of a wave-spectral peak is steepest in the component waves. And the wave spectral peak develops along the line 1.02×10² f ^–6 cm²·sec (wheref is the frequency corresponding to the wave numberk) untill it reaches the line 33.3f ^–4cm²·sec, and thereafter develops along the latter line, which indicates the constant density of slope spectrum. It is suggested that the nonlinearity of wind-waves must become stronger as wind-waves develop. The effective momentum flux _ws from the air flow to wind-waves in this stage is evaluated to be about 49% of the total stress ₀.     

Mean Vertical Distribution of the Dissipation Rate of Turbulent Energy in the Black Sea. Comparison with the Existing Models

We compare the results obtained by using theoretical and semiempirical models developed for the evaluation of the dissipation rate of turbulent energy in a stratified ocean with independent distribution of this quantity established by the authors for the active layer of the Black Sea (50–300 m) by using a one-dimensional model taking into account the balance of heat, salt, and fluid inside the layer. It is shown that, in a layer with gradual variation of the Väisälä–Brunt frequency N as a function of depth, the predominant sink of the energy of motion into dissipation N ² is ensured by the flow of energy through the spectrum of internal waves toward low frequencies and small vertical scales. On the contrary, in layers with abrupt drops of density as a function of depth (layers with jumps of density), an important role is played by the interface-type waves and the dependence of on N transforms into N .     

Kinetics of nitrate and ammonium uptake by the natural populations of marine phytoplankton in the surface water of the Oyashio region during spring and summer

The maximum uptake rate (_max) and affinity constant (K _s) for nitrate and ammonium were estimated in the surface water of offshore Oyashio in May (spring) and September (summer), 1990. The average _max/Chl.a for ammonium was 2.1 times larger than that of nitrate in both seasons. The average _max/Chl.a for both nitrogens were 3.5 times larger in summer than in spring. Water temperature and size composition of phytoplankton population were related to the seasonal difference in the _max/Chl.a. Phytoplankton population showed high affinity for both nitrogens in the spring and summer. In addition, the contribution of new production to total production was estimated by _max[_max–No₃/(_max–NO₃+_max–NH₄)]. The spring value was in the range of 0.26 to 0.45 (mean±SD=0.35±0.092), and the values in spring bloom were especially a little over 0.4. The summer value was in the range of 0.30 to 0.37 (0.34±0.04).     

Sediment Transport along the Southeast Mediterranean: A geological perspective

Sediment is being transported from the Nile Delta to the Israeli coast by a wave-induced longshore current carrying mainly sand, and by the geostrophic Mediterranean Current, detected in Earth Resources and Technology Satellite (ERTS) photographs through the presence of suspended sediments. The location of these suspended sediments is consistent with computations of the maximum depth of wave stirring on the shelf. Since the construction of the Aswan Dam in 1965, sand has been more than adequately supplied by the severe erosion of the Nile Delta beaches. No changes in the longshore transport of sediment along the Israeli coast are anticipated from the Aswan Dam for a few hundred years.In memory of O. H. Oren, a pioneer in the study of the Nile flood along the Israeli coast.     

Intrusive Stratification of the Gulf-Stream Frontal Zone According to the Results of Investigations Performed during Cruise 43 of the R/V Akademik Vernadskii

We analyze the data of investigation of the intrusive structure of the Gulf-Stream frontal zone obtained in making frequent drift sections with the help of an MGI-8102 probing complex, study the regularities of variation of temperature, salinity, and density along separate intrusions, and present a series of results connected with the specific features of initiation and development of intrusions and the types of exchange processes determining their transformations. It is shown that the T-diagrams of all intrusions are well separated into segments with different slopes. Moreover, by comparing the slopes and locations of these segments with each other and with the T-diagrams of the Gulf Stream and slope waters, we can fairly reliably attribute the corresponding segments of intrusions to one of the following four types: initial dynamic folds of the frontal zone, layers of domestic water separating the intrusive segments of foreign water from each other, intrusive segments characterized by the penetration of ambient water, and segments not intrusive initially but getting the required slope as a result of interaction with upper and lower intrusive segments. For segments of the last two types, it is possible to specify the predominant type of exchange.     

The mechanism of the development of wind-wave spectra

The mechanism of the development of wind-waves will be proposed on the basis of the observed wave spectra in the wind tunnels and at Lake Biwa (Imasato, 1976). It consists of two aspects: One is that the air flow over the wind-waves transfers momentum concentratively to the steepest component waves and the other is that the upper limit of the growth of a wave spectral density is given by the ultimate value in the slope spectral density. The first aspect means that the wave field has the momentum transfer filter on receiving the momentum from the air flow. Wind-waves in the stage of sea-waves receive the necessary amount of momentum by the form drag,e.g. according to the Miles' (1960) inviscid mechanism, through a very narrow frequency region around a dominant spectral peak. On the other hand, wind-waves in the stage of initial-wavelets receive it according to the Miles' (1962a) viscous model through a fairly broad frequency region around the peak. The upper limit ofS _max developing according to viscous mechanism is given byS _max =6.40×10^–4 k _max ^–2cm²s andS _max =2.03C(f _max )^–2cm²s(S _max is the power density of the wave spectral peak with the frequencyf _max ,k _max is the wave number corresponding to the frequencyf _max andC is the phase velocity).From the second aspect, the upper limit of the growth of wave spectral density is given by 33.3f ^–4cm²s in the frequency region of late stage of sea-waves. Therefore, the spectral peak, which has the largest value in the slope spectral density in the component waves of the wave spectrum, rises high over the line 4.15f ^–5cm²s. The energy is transported from the spectral peak to the high frequency part and to the forward face of a wave spectrum by nonlinear wave-wave interaction. This nonlinearity is confirmed by the bispectra calculated from the observed wind-wave data. In the stage of sea-waves, nonlinear rearrangement of the wave energy comes from a narrow momentum transfer filter, and, in the stage of initial-wavelets, it comes mainly from small corrugations and small steepness of the wave field.     

A note on small organism diffusion around an attractive center: A mathematical model

A mathematical model of small organism diffusion around an attractive center is presented. The diffusion equation includes a forcing term which creates a virtual flow of organisms toward the center. Owing to the attractive force, the organisms tend to collect in swarms or patches notwithstanding the diffusive motion of surrounding water.Contribution No. 176 of the Chesapeake Bay Institute, Department of Earth and Planetary Sciences, The Johns Hopkins University. This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research Contract N00014-67-A-0163-0006, Research Project NR083-016, by the U.S. Atomic Energy Commission under Contract AT (30-1) 3109, Document COO-3109-2, and by National Science Foundation Grant, GA-16603.     

Variation of water system distribution in the Sanriku Coastal Area

We analyzed hydrographic data obtained monthly by the Iwate Prefectural Fisheries Laboratory during 1977–1981. Our attention was focussed on the classification of waters based on the Temperature-Salinity (T-S) scatter diagram analyses, and on the extraction of the mean state of their distribution for each season. The water system was defined as all waters occupying some specific region on the T-S plane, and the mean state for each season was expressed by the distribution of the mode water systems (i.e., the most commonly occuring water system).Because of the coexistence of the Tsugaru Warm Current, the Oyashio and the Kuroshio, and their large seasonal variability, the sea waters had a wide variety of T-S combinations. The detailed T-S scatter diagram analyses allowed us to classify the waters into six water systems. A time-longitude diagram of water systems and the distribution of mode water systems are presented. The latter showed clear seasonal variations of the Tsugaru Warm Current and the Oyashio.Though the water system analysis was successfully able to present the distribution of the various waters in the Sanriku Coastal Area and to clearly extract the mean state of sea conditions, it was found that the classification of water systems on the T-S plane was not complete in all cases for this area.     

Vertical distribution of smaller macrobenthos and larger meiobenthos in the sediment profile in the deep-sea system of Suruga Bay (central Japan)

The vertical distribution of benthic organisms in the sediment profile was studied using horizontally sliced sediments collected at five stations at depths from 115 to 472 m in Suruga Bay, central Japan. Using sieves of 1.0 and 0.5 mm mesh, benthic organisms were divided into two size classes, smaller macrobenthos (>1mm, <1g wet weight) and larger meiobenthos (1.0 mm0.5 mm). The maximum depth of vertical distribution of organisms in the sediment profile was expressed by the 95 % intercept of the cumulative % curve of the number of individuals drawn with respect to depth in the sediment. It has long been supposed that benthic animals are concentrated in the surface centimeters of sediment in the deep-sea system, and the present study clearly substantiated this. Most benthic organisms of both of these two size classes were concentrated in the upper 5 cm of sediment. The vertical distribution was almost always deeper in the case of smaller macrobenthos than for larger meiobenthos. However the difference could not be substantiated statistically since the number of samples was insufficient. The maximum depth indices of polychaetes were found to be significantly larger than those of crustaceans in the case of macrobenthos, while in the case of meiobenthos, the difference was not significant. The maximum depth index of all benthic organisms was positively and significantly correlated with water-depth and the possible cause for this relationship is discussed.