A numerical model of flow over sand waves in water of finite depth

Summary. A model of turbulent flow above sand waves in water of finite depth is described. Closure assumptions are based on an eddy viscosity proportional to the square root of the local value of turbulent kinetic energy and mixing length dependent upon distance from the lower boundary. Results are presented for some idealized cases to investigate the effects of wave slope, water depth, Froude number and wave shape. The implications of the model for the transport of sediment are discussed and the development of the wave investigated. It is found that the crest of the wave will become sharper for lower flow rates, as has been observed in the sea. Comparisons are made with recent measurements made over sand waves in the Columbia River.     

Cyclic and Seasonal Beach Response: A Comparison of Oceanside and Bayside Beaches

This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches.

Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes.     

Decadal-scale variation in dune erosion and accretion rates: An investigation of the significance of changing storm tide frequency and magnitude on the Sefton coast, UK

Monitoring of frontal dune erosion and accretion on the Sefton coast in northwest England over the past 50 years has revealed significant spatial and temporal variations. Previous work has shown that the spatial variations primarily reflect longshore differences in beach and nearshore morphology, energy regime and sediment budget, but the causes of temporal variations have not previously been studied in detail. This paper presents the results of work carried out to test the hypothesis that a major cause of temporal variation is changes in the frequency and magnitude of storms, surges and resulting high tides. Dune toe erosion/accretion records dating from 1958 have been compared with tide gauge records at Liverpool and Heysham. Relatively high dune erosion rates at Formby Point 1958–1968 were associated with a relatively large number of storm tides. Slower erosion at Formby, and relatively rapid accretion in areas to the north and south, occurred during the 1970's and 1980's when there were relatively few major storm tides. After 1990 rates of dune erosion at Formby increased again, and dunes to the north and south experienced slower accretion. During this period high storm tides have been more frequent, and the annual number of hours with water levels above the critical level for dune erosion has increased significantly. An increase in the rate of mean sea-level rise at both Liverpool and Heysham is evident since 1990, but we conclude that this factor is of less importance than the occurrence of extreme high tides and wave action associated with storms. The incidence of extreme high tides shows an identifiable relationship with the lunar nodal tidal cycle, but the evidence indicates that meteorological forcing has also had a significant effect. Storms and surges in the eastern Irish Sea are associated with Atlantic depressions whose direction and rate of movement have a strong influence on wind speeds, wave energy and the height of surge tides. However, preliminary analysis has indicated only a modest relationship between dune erosion/accretion rates and the North Atlantic Oscillation index.     

An approach to the problem of coastal erosion in quaternary sediments

Approximately 40 per cent of the shorelines of the lower Great Lakes are backed by relatively weak Quaternary sediments, and similar shorelines are found on many middle and high-latitude coasts. The high rates of bluff recession which are characteristic of these areas lead to economic losses through erosion of land and damage to buildings, and may prompt a wide range of measures designed to reduce erosion and protect property. Assessment of the physical problem and of possible solutions to it can best be achieved through a sediment budget approach. This is illustrated through a case study of an area near Grimsby, Ontario. The volume of sediment supply to the beach was calculated from measurements of bluff height and annual recession rates. The potential volume of longshore sediment transport was determined from the wave climate of the area and computer modelling of wave refraction. The relationship between sediment supply and potential transport rate can be used to assess the magnitude of the sediment deficit or surplus at points along the shoreline, and this provides an insight into the controls on alongshore variations in recession rates.     

Profile response of a lacustrine multiple barred nearshore to a sequence of storm events

Profile change in a lacustrine multiple-barred nearshore was investigated over the ice-free season of 2001/2002 at Burley Beach on the southeastern shore of Lake Huron in order to identify the feedback mechanisms between the pre-existing morphology and the wave forcing and the consequence of those feedbacks to the behaviour of the nearshore environment. The characteristics of the offshore wave field were monitored using a Falmouth Scientific combined 3D-ACM wave recorder and pressure transducer. Supplemental wave data were downloaded from a 3-m discus buoy operated by the National Data Buoy Center, 75 km to the NW of the study site. The three nearshore bars were in a quasi-equilibrium state through a large part of the ice-free season, with dramatic changes occurring during relatively moderate storm events that followed much larger storms in late October. A comparison of the incident wave field with changes in the nearshore profile through canonical correlation analysis indicates that the morphology responds to the distribution of the significant, root-mean-square (rms) and average wave heights between surveys. The threshold between bar decay and onshore bar migration and growth is associated with the onset of breaking of the rms wave at the bar crest (H_rms h_cr⁻¹ ≈0.3–0.4). The threshold between onshore and offshore migration is associated with the onset of breaking of the average wave at the bar crest (H_avg h_cr⁻¹ ≈0.3–0.4), coincident with complete dissipation of the significant wave over the lakeward slope of the bar (H_s h_cr⁻¹ >0.6). Inshore wave data collected during an instrumented study at the same site revealed that the middle and inner bars remained at the threshold of onshore and offshore migration over a wide range of offshore significant wave heights (0.8 to 2.4 m) prior to the October storms. This self-organised equilibrium is a result of changes to the incident wave distribution through breaking on the outer bar. It is concluded that the prediction of bar response requires an understanding of the feedback between the bar and the local wave distribution in addition to an understanding of the feedback associated with the profile as a whole.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars in wave-dominated coastal settings — A review

Intertidal bar systems are ubiquitous features on wave-dominated beaches in coastal settings with a significant (> 1 m) tidal range. Depending primarily on the wave conditions and the tidal range, and to a lesser extent on the nearshore gradient, they can assume a variety of forms. Slip-face bars represent the most pronounced and dynamic intertidal bar morphology, and are generally found on their own around the mean high tide level. They usually form low on the intertidal beach after storm-induced beach erosion and develop into a berm under prolonged calm wave conditions. Low-amplitude ridges and sand waves represent multiple bar morphologies. The bars occur across the entire intertidal profile and they remain present throughout the year. Multiple intertidal bars tend to be rather subdued and relatively static, especially sand waves, and their origin remains unclear.The morphological response of intertidal bars to changing wave conditions is largely forced: bars build up and migrate onshore under calm waves, and are flattened and may migrate offshore during storms. The morphological response is, however, significantly affected by relaxation time effects and morphological feedback, particularly on beaches with multiple intertidal bars. Despite their morphological differences, the intertidal bar types exhibit pronounced similarities in their morphodynamics. Sediment transport processes and morphological response are principally controlled by the tidal water levels on the beach, because these, together with the offshore wave energy level and the beach morphology, determine the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.It is the dominant importance of tidal water level variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar morphodynamics.     

Novel particle method for modelling the episodic collapse of soft coastal bluffs

This paper presents a new, novel, particle-based Bluff Morphology Model (BMM), and with it investigates the stability, collapse, and equilibrium position of soft coastal bluffs (cliffs). This model combines a multiple wedge displacement method with an adapted Weakly Compressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (WCSPH) method. At first, the wedge method is applied to compute the stability of the bluff. Once the critical failure mechanism of the bluff slope has been identified, and if the factor of safety for the mechanism is less than 1, the adapted WCSPH method is used to predict the failure movement and residual shape of the slope. The model is validated against benchmark test cases of bluff stability for purely frictional, purely cohesive, and mixed strength bluff materials including 2D static water tables. The model predictions give a good correlation with the expected values, with medium resolution models producing errors of typically less than 2.0%. In addition, the prediction of lateral movement of a surveyed cliff and the dynamic collapse of a vertical bluff are computed, and compare well with published literature.     

Analyse d'Image pour l'Évaluation de l'Exposition de la Côte à l'Action des Vagues

A method of analysis was developed to estimate wind-induced wave heights in the coastal zone. The analysis is based on a digital bathymetry model in raster format. The model uses wind characteristics such as direction, velocity, and fetch. In addition, underwater terrain slope magnitude and orientation, and water depth are used in the computation of the model to estimate wave heights. Two analyses are shown, taking into account waves built from short fetch wind and indefinite fetch wind. The analysis was applied to Hare Bay in northern Newfoundland. First, we take into account a northerly wind of 6.9 ms⁻¹ where the fetch is 19 km or less. The estimated wave heights vary between 0 and 0.5 m. With the second application, we considered an indefinite ESE fetch wind of 17.8 ms⁻¹. In this case, the wave heights resulting from the application of the model vary between 0 and 11.8 m. We compared the modelling results based on ESE wind and the wave energy derived through visual analysis. Relationships were identified between the wave height classes and the wave energy categories.     

Magnitude and frequency of landsliding in a large New Zealand catchment

Knowledge of long-term average rates of erosion is necessary if factors affecting sediment yields from catchments are to be understood. Without such information, it is not possible to assess the potential influence of extreme storms, and, therefore, to evaluate the relative importance of various components of a sediment budget. A study of the sediment budget for the Waipaoa catchment, North Island, New Zealand, included evaluation of long-term rates of landsliding for six landslide-prone land systems in the catchment. The number of landslides per unit area generated by each of several storms was counted on sequential aerial photographs and correlated with the magnitude of the corresponding storm. The resulting relationships were combined with magnitude–frequency relationships derived for storms from 70- to 100-year rainfall records in the area to estimate a long-term magnitude–frequency relationship for landsliding for each land system. The long-term average values of the areal landslide frequency (number of slides per unit area per unit time) were then calculated from these relationships. The volumes of a sample of landslide scars were measured in the field, and the proportion of slides that deliver sediment to channels was determined from aerial photographs. These measurements then allowed calculation of the long-term average rate of sediment production to streams from landslides for different land systems and types of vegetation. Results suggest that shallow landslides currently contribute about 15±5% of the suspended sediment load in the Waipaoa River above the Kanakanaia gauging station, and that 75% of the sediment production from the landslides occurs during storms with recurrence intervals of less than 27 years. Reforestation of 6.3% (93 km²) of the slide-prone lands in the catchment between 1990 and 1995 resulted in a calculated decrease in slide-derived sediment of 10%. Calculations suggest that reforestation of an additional 3% (66 km²) of the catchment in areas with the most sensitive combinations of land system and storm regime could decrease the total sediment inputs from landsliding by about 20%.     

A study of geomagnetic storms

Summary. An attempt is made to find interplanetary magnetic field and solar-wind parameters which control the development of geomagnetic storms. For this purpose, the interplanetary energy flux is estimated in terms of the Poynting flux ( E × B /4π), and its time variations are compared with the rate of energy dissipation in terms of the ring-current particle injection u _i( t ), Joule dissipation in the ionosphere u_j ( t ) and auroral particle injection u_p ( t ) for 15 major geomagnetic storms.
It is shown that the growth of geomagnetic storms, namely the time variations of the rate of the total energy dissipation, u ( t ) = u _i( t ) + u _j( t ) + u _p( t ), is closely related to the Poynting flux by the following relation:
where l ₀≅ 7 R _E and θ' is a measure of the angle between the interplanetary magnetic field vector and the magnetospheric field vector at the front of the magnetosphere in the equatorial plane. Further, it is shown that within a factor of 2 for each storm period.
A large increase of u ( t ) is associated with substorm activity. Thus, the energy flux ɛ( t ) entering the magnetosphere is dissipated through magneto-spheric substorm processes within the magnetosphere, and their accumulated effects can be understood as geomagnetic storm phenomena.     

基于耦合模型的中国能源生产与消费预测及其环境响应(英文)

The paper presents the prediction of total energy production and consumption in all provinces and autonomous regions as well as determination of the variation of gravity center of the energy production, consumption and total discharge of industrial waste water, gas and residue of China via the energy and environmental quality data from 1978 to 2009 in China by use of GM(1,1) model and gravity center model, based on which the paper also analyzes the dynamic variation in regional difference in energy production, consumption and environmental quality and their relationship. The results are shown as follows. 1) The gravity center of energy production is gradually moving southwestward and the entire movement track approxi-mates to linear variation, indicating that the difference of energy production between the east and west, south and north is narrowing to a certain extent, with the difference between the east and the west narrowing faster than that between the south and the north. 2) The gravity center of energy consumption is moving southwestward with perceptible fluctuation, of which the gravity center position from 2000 to 2005 was relatively stable, with slight annual position variation, indicating that the growth rates of all provinces and autonomous regions are basically the same. 3) The gravity center of the total discharge of industrial waste water, gas and residue is characterized by fluctuation in longitude and latitude to a certain degree. But, it shows a southwestward trend on the whole. 4) There are common ground and discrepancy in the variation track of the gravity center of the energy production & consumption of China, and the comparative analysis of the gravity center of them and that of total discharge of industrial waste water, gas and residue shows that the environmental quality level is closely associated with the energy production and consumption (especially the energy consumption), indicating that the environment cost in economy of energy is higher in China.     

Energy production and consumption prediction and their response to environment based on coupling model in China

The paper presents the prediction of total energy production and consumption in all provinces and autonomous regions as well as determination of the variation of gravity center of the energy production, consumption and total discharge of industrial waste water, gas and residue of China via the energy and environmental quality data from 1978 to 2009 in China by use of GM(1,1) model and gravity center model, based on which the paper also analyzes the dynamic variation in regional difference in energy production, consumption and environmental quality and their relationship. The results are shown as follows. 1) The gravity center of energy production is gradually moving southwestward and the entire movement track approximates to linear variation, indicating that the difference of energy production between the east and west, south and north is narrowing to a certain extent, with the difference between the east and the west narrowing faster than that between the south and the north. 2) The gravity center of energy consumption is moving southwestward with perceptible fluctuation, of which the gravity center position from 2000 to 2005 was relatively stable, with slight annual position variation, indicating that the growth rates of all provinces and autonomous regions are basically the same. 3) The gravity center of the total discharge of industrial waste water, gas and residue is characterized by fluctuation in longitude and latitude to a certain degree. But, it shows a southwestward trend on the whole. 4) There are common ground and discrepancy in the variation track of the gravity center of the energy production & consumption of China, and the comparative analysis of the gravity center of them and that of total discharge of industrial waste water, gas and residue shows that the environmental quality level is closely associated with the energy production and consumption (especially the energy consumption), indicating that the environment cost in economy of energy is higher in China.     

Relation between beachface morphology and wave climate at Trafalgar beach (Cádiz, Spain)

Two years of offshore wave data and daily time exposure images from Trafalgar beach, a 2-km-long sandy beach located on the southwest coast of Spain that frequently exhibits rhythmic features, were used to (1) explore the variability of the beachface morphology and (2) determine environmental conditions associated with the different morphological states. The beachface morphology at three distinct alongshore sectors was analyzed and classified and five different morphological states were found that are related with the presence or absence of beach cusps and a berm: (1) large beach cusps, (2) small beach cusps, (3) low-tide terrace; (4) plane beach berm and (5) plane beach. The predominant beachface morphology is characterized by the presence of large beach cusps, and the main wave climate consisted of offshore significant wave heights ranging from 0.5–1 m and wave periods between 4 and 12 s. An alongshore variation of the morphology is found which might be related to the nearshore wave variability (SWAN wave model results). The morphologies are, in some cases, well-correlated with the daily offshore incident wave climate (described by the daily maximum significant wave height and the corresponding period), particularly for the moderate to high energy wave conditions. Small beach cusps appear under short period waves, whereas when the wave periods are longer the morphology tends to change to large beach cusps. This transition only occurs if the forcing is maintained as constant for a certain duration, which depends itself on the wave energy. It is concluded that correlations over 90% are only found for the highest wave energy conditions or under long wave periods. For the remainder, it is not possible to generally correlate the beachface morphology based only on the wave forcing because the previous morphological state cannot be ignored.     

宁夏特强沙尘暴气候背景及其成灾规律研究

沙尘暴是宁夏主要的灾害性天气之一,每年强及特强沙尘暴给当地国民经济造成巨大损失,并导致中部干旱带生态环境进一步恶化,加快了荒漠化进程。文章从沙尘暴发生的机理和形成机制出发,通过对历史气象资料及沙尘暴灾情资料的综合分析研究,初步形成宁夏沙尘暴天气运动、成灾规律的概念模型,并对宁夏沙尘暴灾害进行区划。     

An empirical–conceptual gully evolution model for channelled sea cliffs

Incised coastal channels are a specific form of incised channel that are found in locations where stream channels flowing to cliffed coasts have the excess energy required to cut down through the cliff to reach the outlet water body. The southern coast of the Isle of Wight, southern England, comprises soft cliffs that vary in height between 15 and 100 m and which are retreating at rates ≤ 1.5 m a^− 1, due to a combination of wave erosion and landslides. In several locations, river channels have cut through the cliffs to create deeply (≤ 45 m) incised gullies, known locally as ‘Chines’. The Chines are unusual in that their formation is associated with dynamic shoreline encroachment during a period of rising sea-level, whereas existing models of incised channel evolution emphasise the significance of base level lowering. This paper develops a conceptual model of Chine evolution by applying space for time substitution methods using empirical data gathered from Chine channel surveys and remotely sensed data. The model identifies a sequence of evolutionary stages, which are classified based on a suite of morphometric indices and associated processes. The extent to which individual Chines are in a state of growth or decay is estimated by determining the relative rates of shoreline retreat and knickpoint recession, the former via analysis of historical aerial images and the latter through the use of a stream power erosion model.     

Impact of storms on mixed carbonate and siliciclastic shelves: insights from combined diffusive and fluid-flow transport stratigraphic forward model

A quantitative stratigraphic model of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic continental shelves is presented to investigate the relationships between depositional processes and stratigraphic responses at long‐term, large spatial scales. A diffusion model is combined with a fluid‐flow approach to simulate both long‐term factors, i.e. the processes controlling large‐scale architecture, and short‐term processes, i.e. sediment redistribution by storms. Any net sediment accumulation is the result of the succession of a storm and a fair‐weather period. Sediments are mobilized by waves and advected by low‐frequency currents during storm events. Sediments are then reworked and redistributed downslope by diffusive processes during fair‐weather period. The results are successful in capturing several major characteristics of both modern and ancient depositional systems (geometry, differential preservation, net accumulation rates). The study highlights the importance of waves and unidirectional currents. Depositional geometry and shelf morphology depend on the balance between available sediment supply (generated in situ or detrital) and the transport energy, which is related to the style of sediment transport (diffusive or advective), and to the magnitude and frequency of storms.     

Rapid Development of Ferricretes on a Subtropical Valley Side Slope

Ferricretes can be formed along some valley-side slopes in the southeastern United States coastal plain as a consequence of erosional exposure of zones of iron precipitation in areas of groundwater discharge. This mode of ferricrete formation was demonstrated due to the recession of estuarine shoreline bluffs after hurricanes in 1996. Iron-precipitation zones exposed by bluff retreat at Flanner Beach, North Carolina in 1996 had formed indurated ferricretes by 1998. This confirms the valley-side groundwater discharge model of ferricrete formation, and shows that, once the zone of iron precipitation is exposed, ferricrete can form in less than two years. The newly formed ferricretes also allow the identification of five distinct stages in their formation: (1) iron precipitation in the zone of water table fluctuation; (2) the formation of brittle iron-cemented layers; (3) exposure by erosion or mass wasting and the first stage of hardening; (4) further hardening into indurated ferricrete; and (5) formation of limonite ferricretes, and impregnation with manganese oxides. The results from Flanner Beach show that the process may proceed from stages two and three to four and five in less than two years, suggesting that only short periods of stability following erosion or mass wasting episodes are necessary to allow ferricrete formation.     

Kadavu Island, Fiji: Fluvial Studies of a Volcanic Island in the Humid Tropical South Pacific

This paper examines features of drainage and stream channel form and process on the mountainous volcanic island of Kadavu in the humid tropical South Pacific, and interprets the findings in relation to island environmental characteristics such as geology, regolith soils, topography, vegetation and climate. At island and sub-island scales, drainage patterns are linked to the geographical arrangement and topography of the late Cenozoic volcanoes. Stream channel and bedload characteristics demonstrate the importance of both deep saprolite weathering profiles for supplying sediment into the fluvial system, and the high energy nature of the fluvial transport regimes. Landscape chemical denudation is estimated at 50-85 mm per 1,000 years from baseflow solute concentrations converted from water conductivity readings.
Relative tectonic and sea-level stability during the late Holocene and the largely undisturbed rainforest and savanna vegetation on the island suggest that climatic factors control rates of fluvial processes on Kadavu. Streamflow records show particularly that tropical storms can have a big impact. The effects of possible increasing numbers of cyclones in the South Pacific and human vegetation disturbance on Kadavu are considered.     

Dynamics of nebkhas superimposed on a parabolic dune and their effect on the dune dynamics

We report here on a bare barchan dune in Israel that converted over the last 60 years to a shrub-covered parabolic dune due to changes in land use. Thirty nebkhas (sand mounds) that were formed by sand trapped around shrubs growing on the dune were monitored during winter of 2004–2005. The rates of erosion or deposition were measured at five points in the nebkhas by erosion pins. All nebkhas were shown to undergo erosion or deposition activity. Nebkhas on the windward slope of the dune experienced primarily erosion. Those on the lee slope grew slowly by the light accumulation of sand. The largest nebkhas were found on the dune crest; they built up through the accumulation of sand that was eroded from the windward slope. There were no significant differences between the rates of erosion/deposition of the five study points placed in each nebkha. However, there were significant differences between the rates of erosion/deposition of the nebkhas on the three dynamic segments of the dunes (windward, crest and lee). A change in dune dynamics was observed by the emergence of shrubs on the crest. These shrubs trapped sand and increased the crest height. The sand trapped on the crest was not deposited on the lee side. In that case, the dune becomes narrower, higher, with a concave shape (of the windward slope), during the transformation from a barchan to a parabolic dune.