Calculating bottom orbital velocity beneath waves

Methods are presented for calculating directly from a known wave height, period and water depth the orbital velocity produced at the sea bed by surface waves. Two curves are sufficient to allow the root-mean-square bottom orbital velocity to be calculated for wave-spectra having any one of the JONSWAP, Pierson-Moskowitz, Bretschneider, ISSC or ITTC forms. A third curve covers the monochromatic case. Other curves allow the ratio of the peak periods of bottom orbital velocity and surface elevation to be calculated for the above five spectral forms. Values are deduced for the height and period of the monochromatic wave which most closely matches the bottom orbital velocity obtained from a full spectral representation, optimised over water depths ranging from deep water to breaking.     

Wave parameter gradients along the wave ray

Computer methods have been used to track selected deep-water waves along their orthogonals to the surf zone. Three bottom orbital parameters were computed at each step: diameter, maximum velocity and acceleration. These three parameters were then plotted along the several wave rays, thereby providing shoreward gradients.The three gradients have essentially the same geometry, so that any one can be taken as an indicator of the other two. Bottom slope changes are responsible for departure of the gradients from linearity. The bottom orbital gradients are quite different from gradients of wave height and wave length. These results from coasting waves cannot be applied directly to the case of forced, or wind-driven, waves.The non-linear nature of the bottom orbital gradients indicates that the near-shore bottom should exhibit a crude banding, more-or-less parallel with the coast, with different sediment transport and ripple-mark geometry from band to band.     

The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.     

广东流沙湾4个测站2个周日潮流观测的准调和分析

采用短期资料的潮流准调和分析方法,对水深为4.4～17.0 m的流沙湾4个测站2个周日潮流观测获得的表、中、底层的潮流资料进行了分析,分别计算了4个测站O1、K1、M2、S2、M4、MS4共6个主要分潮的潮流调和常数,并给出了各观测站位在各层的潮流椭圆要素.计算结果表明：流沙湾主要为日潮流海区,其中湾外为规则日潮流,湾内为不规则日潮流;湾外主要分潮流的北分量一般大于东分量,而湾内主要分潮流的北分量一般小于东分量.观测期间余流的流向主要呈西北向,最大余流流速出现在湾内地形突然收窄处,且在湾内中层余流流速要大于表、底层余流流速.整个海区潮流的可能最大流速表层在57～107 cm/s之间,中层在53～106 cm/s之间,底层在34～98 cm/s之间.流沙湾湾外潮流主要为顺时针的旋转流运动,湾内为带有旋转流的往复流运动.     

High seas marine protected areas: Benthic environmental conservation priorities from a GIS analysis of global ocean biophysical data

Designing a representative network of high seas marine protected areas (MPAs) requires an acceptable scheme to classify the benthic (as well as the pelagic) bioregions of the oceans. Given the lack of sufficient biological information to accomplish this task, we used a multivariate statistical method with 6 biophysical variables (depth, seabed slope, sediment thickness, primary production, bottom water dissolved oxygen and bottom temperature) to objectively classify the ocean floor into 53,713 separate polygons comprising 11 different categories, that we have termed “seascapes”. A cross-check of the seascape classification was carried out by comparing the seascapes with existing maps of seafloor geomorphology and seabed sediment type and by GIS analysis of the number of separate polygons, polygon area and perimeter/area ratio. We conclude that seascapes, derived using a multivariate statistical approach, are biophysically meaningful subdivisions of the ocean floor and can be expected to contain different biological associations, in as much as different geomorphological units do the same. Less than 20% of some seascapes occur in the high seas while other seascapes are largely confined to the high seas, indicating specific types of environment whose protection and conservation will require international cooperation. Our study illustrates how the identification of potential sites for high seas marine protected areas can be accomplished by a simple GIS analysis of seafloor geomorphic and seascape classification maps. Using this approach, maps of seascape and geomorphic heterogeneity were generated in which heterogeneity hotspots identify themselves as MPA candidates. The use of computer-aided mapping tools removes subjectivity in the MPA design process and provides greater confidence to stakeholders that an unbiased result has been achieved.     

三门湾外海的潮汐和潮流特征

针对2009年5月-7月三门湾外海D8和D9两个站位布放的防渔网底拖锚系ADCP连续观测获取的流速资料和水位资料,采用调和分析和功率谱分析等研究方法,分析了该海域的潮汐和潮流特征,结果显示:该海域潮汐类型为正规半日潮,近岸的D9站浅水分潮比离岸的D8站显著,潮汐呈现出回归潮特征。三门湾外海潮流半日分潮能量最大, 各层潮流呈现出旋转流性质;椭圆率随水深增加;M₂、K₁分潮流最大流速均在次表层最大;最大分潮流速发生时刻底层比中、上层提前约半小时;该海域潮流的半日分潮流以正压为主,全日分潮流则表现出较为明显的斜压性。     

埕岛油田海域波—底相互作用

基于1976，1993年埕岛油田海域测深资料，应用HISWA浅水海浪数值计算模式，研究风暴浪入侵该海域导致的波-底相互作用后果。数值计算结果表明，海区固定点海底冲刷导致波场强化；波参数增量与冲刷深度有关；海底水质点轨道流速峰值，底摩擦耗散峰值及临界波高值相对水深分布均表明，该海域深水区海底冲刷将减弱，浅水区海底冲刷将加强。     

Response of the upper ocean to tropical cyclone in the Northwest Pacific observed by gliders during fall 2018

The evolution of thermohaline structure at the upper ocean during three tropical cyclones(TCs) in the Northwest Pacific was studied in this study based on successive observation by two new-style underwater gliders during fall 2018. These remote-controllable gliders with CTD sensor enabled us to explore high frequency responses of temperature, salinity, mixed and barrier layers in the upper ocean to severe TCs in this area. Results showed that three significant cooling-to-warming and stratification destructing-to-reconstructing processes at the mixed layer occurred during the lives of three TCs. The maximal cooling of SST all reached ≥0.5℃ although TCs with different intensities had different minimal distances to the observed area. Under potential impacts of solar radiation, tide and inertial motions, the mixed layer depth possessed significant high-frequency fluctuations during TC periods.In addition, barrier layers appeared and vanished quickly during TCs, accompanied with varied temperature inversion processes.     

Wave-induced Benthic Velocity Variations in Shallow Waters

Waves propagating from deep water into shallow coastal areas produce oscillatory currents near the sea bottom. The magnitude of these currents depend upon the period and amplitude of the incoming waves, and the dissipation mechanism such as wave breaking and bottom friction. Field experiments in a gently shoaling bay, i.e. Cleveland Bay, Northern Australia, showed that there is a broad band of water at around 6 m depth, where the benthic surge velocities are maximum. Both further inshore and offshore, the bottom velocities were less than at 6 m depth, contrary to the normal expectation that the velocities should increase as the water becomes shallower. A new and computationally efficient wave model was developed and was able to reproduce experimental results for waves above 50 cm wave height, but not for small waves (wave height about 30 cm). One implication of this higher band of benthic surge velocities may be to produce high water turbidities in this region. Turbidity data from Cleveland Bay is consistent with this hypothesis.     

基于FVCOM的泉州湾海域三维潮汐与潮流数值模拟

基于FVCOM海洋数值模式,采用非结构的三角形网格和有限体积法,建立了泉州湾海域高分辨率(26 m)的三维潮汐、潮流数值模型。模拟结果同2个验潮站和3个连续测流站的观测资料符合良好,较好地反映了泉州湾内潮汐、潮流运动的变化状况和分布特征,给出了M₂、S₂、K₁、O₁ 4个主要分潮的同潮图、表层潮流椭圆分布,以及模拟区域内最大可能潮差、表层最大可能潮流流速和潮余流分布。分析表明,4个分潮的最大潮汐振幅和迟角差分别为219 cm和19°,85 cm和25°,26 cm和12°,26 cm和9°;石湖港以东海域的潮波为逆时针旋转的驻波,以西海域为前进波;最大可能潮差由湾口的8.0m向湾内增加至8.8 m。湾内潮流类型为规则半日潮流,落潮最大流速大于涨潮最大流速,北乌礁水道为强流区,表层最大可能潮流流速为2.4 m/s;湾口潮流运动以逆时针方向的旋转流形式为主,湾内的潮流运动以往复流形式为主,长轴走向主要沿着水道方向,与等深线和海岸线平行;四个分潮流表层最大流速分别为1.4 m/s,0.58 m/s,0.12 m/s,0.10 m/s。余流流速大小与潮流强弱有密切的联系,表、中、底层最大余流流速分别为26 cm/s,20 cm/s,16 cm/s,三者在水平方向基本呈北进南出的分布形态。     

Wave resistance of a hovercraft moving in water with nonrigid bottom

Surface waves generated by a moving ship in water of finite depth are affected by the rheological properties of the movable bottom. The aim of this work is to evaluate the wave resistance exerted on a hovercraft modeled as a two-dimensional pressure distribution moving on the free surface of water with nonrigid bottom. Analysis of three-dimensional flows in two-fluid layers of finite depths is performed by assuming an inviscid upper layer (water) and a viscous lower layer (nonrigid bottom). Numerical calculations show that the maximum wave resistance occurs in the vicinity of the critical Froude number F=1. This maximum value decreases as the muddy bottom becomes less rigid.     

淤泥质潮流深槽最大冲刷深度的一个概念模型

以概念模式方法计算了淤泥质潮流深槽的最大深度,探讨了涨落潮流速、涨落潮历时、深槽淤泥质物质粒径、深槽顶底部原始深度、水道长度等因素对潮流深槽最大深度的影响。概念模式的假设条件是:(1)深槽形态为长方体,底部纵向坡度为0;(2)沉积物粒径无垂向变化;(3)只考虑潮流作用的影响,涨、落潮流速在时间序列上呈正弦分布;(4)不考虑细颗粒物质的粘性和絮凝作用。模拟结果显示:(1)涨、落潮历时对深槽最大深度的影响很小。(2)优势潮流流速与最大深槽深度之间存在着幂函数关系。(3)深槽的底质粒径、深槽的长度均与最大冲刷深度呈正相关关系。(4)深槽顶部水深与最大深度呈负相关关系。(5)由于潮汐水道深度与潮流流速和沉积物侵蚀强度之间具有负反馈关系,因此水道冲刷存在着一个极限,即最终可以达到均衡状态。潮流深槽的均衡态特征和达到均衡态所需的时间可运用沉积动力学方法来确定;同时,若应用深槽的真实参数,进一步减少模型的假设条件,可望使该模型具有实际的应用价值。     

长江河口拦门沙河床淤积和泥沙再悬浮过程

利用近２０年来长江河口所观测的地形、水文、悬沙和河床沉积物资料,着重对１９８８、１９８９、１９９６和１９９７年最新观测资料进行计算分析。结果表明,长江河口航道拦门沙河段来水沙量大,潮流作用强,潮波变形明显,水流挟沙力强。该河段潮流速随时间和空间变化,又处在盐淡水交换地带,流域和海域来沙在此河率时淤时冲,悬沙与床沙交换频繁,表现在涨急、落急时可床淤积层泥沙再次起动悬浮,憩流时只河床,在一个潮周期中含     

Effect of a submerged plate on the near-bed dynamics underincoming waves in deep water conditions

It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current.     

江苏近岸海域悬沙浓度的时空分布特征

2006—2007年间的四个季节在江苏近岸海域69个站位采集水样,获取悬沙浓度。通过对TM遥感数据反演,获取该海域四季大面悬沙浓度,并与调查的实测悬沙浓度进行对比。结果显示,大面调查的非同步数据基本可正确反映大区域悬沙浓度的季节与空间分布趋势。悬沙浓度等值线由高至低、由陆向海分布,底层浓度约为表层的2—3倍;废黄河口和长江口外海域为悬沙浓度高值区,而海州湾为低值分布区,东南部陆架区受台湾暖流影响出现低值中心。冬季整个海域悬沙浓度均较高,其次为春季,夏季最低;废黄河口海域的高值中心在不同季节分布位置有所移动。海底沉积物的再悬浮是苏北近岸悬沙最主要的来源,河流输沙量的季节变化是影响长江口海域悬沙浓度变化的关键因子。相关分析结果表明,潮流为影响悬沙浓度分布的主要控制因子;季风、风暴潮和风浪虽对悬沙的分布具有一定的影响,但冬季的低温环境是形成该季节整个海域悬沙浓度显著偏高的重要因素。     

南海东沙岛西南大陆坡内潮特征

2008年4月-10月,在南海东沙岛西南大陆坡底部布放了1套全剖面锚系,同时沿大陆坡底部布放了3套近底锚系,应用谱分析和调和分析方法分析温度和海流连续观测资料,进而研究该海域的内潮特征.结果表明,东沙岛西南大陆坡存在强内潮现象,大陆坡底部温度变化受到内潮波的影响,上层海洋存在强日潮周期的内潮波振动;正压潮和斜压潮均以O...     

Effects of scattering and resonance on energy dissipation of an internal tide in a narrow shelf

The effects of scattering and resonance on the energy dissipation of an internal tide were investigated using a two-dimensional model which is a reassembled version of the theoretical generation model devised by Rattray et al. (1969) for internal tide. The basic character of the scattering process at the step bottom was first investigated with a wide shelf model. When the internal wave incited from a deep region (Region II) into the shallow shelf region (Region I), a passing wave into the shallow region, a reflected wave into the deep region, and a beam-like wave, i.e. a scattered wave (SW), emanated at the step bottom. The SW, which consists of the superposition of numerous internal modes, propagated upward/downward into both regions. The general properties of the SW were well expressed around the shelf edge, even in the present model with viscosity effect. The amplitude of the SW decreased dramatically when the depth of the velocity maximum of the incident internal wave in Region II corresponded with the depth of the shelf edge. In the narrow shelf model, where the decay distance of the internal wave in Region I is longer than the shelf width, the incident internal wave reflected at the coast to form a standing wave. When the internal wave in Region I is enhanced by the resonance, the energy of the SW in Region II is also intensified. Furthermore, the energy of the modes in Region II predominated when the velocity maximum is identical to that of the dominant mode in Region I. These results suggest that the spatial scale of shelf region is a very important factor governing the energy dissipation of the internal tide through reflection and scattering in a narrow shelf.     

Experimental and numerical investigation of viscous effects on solitary wave propagation in a wave tank

Two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer. These Boussinesq-type equations were written in terms of the horizontal velocity components evaluated at an arbitrary elevation in the water depth and the free surface displacement. The leading order effects of the bottom boundary layer were represented by a convolution integral in the depth-integrated continuity equation. To test the validity of the theory, a set of laboratory experiments was performed to measure the viscous damping and shoaling of a solitary wave propagating in a wave tank. The time histories of the free surface profiles were measured at several locations along the centerline of the flume. To compare these laboratory data with theoretical results, the two-dimensional Boussinesq-type equations were integrated across the wave tank, resulting in a set of one-dimensional equations, while the side-wall boundary layers were properly considered. The agreement between the experimental data and numerical results was very good. The bottom shear stress formula was also given and its impact on the sediment transport rate was discussed.     

Inversion of teleseismic waves at Shidao Seismographic Station

1 IntroductionThe temporary Shidao seismographic station,the farthest one from China s Mainland (except Tai-wan Province) supported by a national fundamentalresearch project for the study of the evolution ofcontinental margin, is located at Shidao island(…     

A New Approach to High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations with Ambient Currents

A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.