Why ripples become sweiis,and swells in shallow water decay rapidly

Abstract

In an ocean with a horizontal bottom where no wind is blowing it is shown that the spin (angular momentum) of the ocean is conserved. Thus, when energy is dissipated, at least one of three things will happen: i) Wave spectra may move towards lower frequencies. ii) The directional distribution may be changed towards long-crested waves. iii) Shear currents may be generated. By neglecting ii) and iii), the frequency shift of a spectrum is calculated due to molecular dissipation. When all energy transforming phenomena as e.g. wave breaking and turbulence generation are taken into account, the conservation of spin seems to be able to explain the frequency shift of wave spectra. In shallow water it is shown that there is energy transfer from the waves to shear currents.     

The mass transport velocity induced by free oscillations at a single frequency

Abstract

Second order effects due to the presence of a first order free oscillation at a single frequency in a variable depth rotating ocean are examined. It is found that the second order Lagrangian mean velocity (mass transport velocity) satisfies the linearized equations for unforced steady geostrophic motion. This implies that if the ocean basin is laterally bounded and contains no closed geostrophic contours, the second order Lagrangian mean velocity vanishes everywhere.     

Baroclinic and topographic influences on the transport in western boundary currents

Abstract

One of the central unsolved theoretical problems of the large scale ocean circulation is concerned with explaining the very large transports measured in western boundary currents such as the Gulf Stream and the Kuroshio. The only theory up to now that can explain the size of these transports is that of non-linear recirculation in which the advective terms in the momentum equations became important near the western boundary. In this paper an alternative explanation is suggested. When bottom topography and baroclinic effects are included in a wind-driven ocean model it is shown that the western boundary current can have a transport larger than that predicted from the wind stress distribution even when the nonlinear advective terms are ignored. The explanation lies in the presence of pressure torques associated with bottom topography which can contribute to the vorticity balance in the same sense as the wind stress curl.

Three numerical experiments have been carried out to explore the nature of this process using a three dimensional numerical model. The first calculation is done for a baroclinic ocean of constant depth, the second for a homogeneous ocean with an idealized continental slope topography, and the third for a baroclinic ocean with the same continental slope topography. The nature of the vorticity balance and of the circulation around closed paths is examined in each case, and it is shown that bottom pressure torques lead to enhanced transport in the western boundary current only for the baroclinic case with variable depth.     

Topographic effects on the wind‐driven ocean circulation

Abstract

This is a study of the influence of bottom topography of an ocean basin on the wind‐driven, barotropic ocean circulation. A detailed investigation is made of the role of vorticity transfer to the ocean bottom in the presence of varying topography. It is shown that the wind‐driven gyre over the topography of the North Atlantic has a transport in the western part of the basin only half of that obtained in an ocean of constant depth.     

Long period divergent planetary waves

Abstract

A simple first order perturbation procedure is used to obtain an equation for divergent planetary waves when the period is much greater than the pendulum day. For unbounded regions the equation is the s2me as one derived by Longuet-Higgins (1965), but in bounded basins it is different. As an example, the eigen frequencies of a rectangular basin are calculated for a number of values of the parameters.

The energy density of planetary waves is also considered with results which correct those of Buchwald (1972) in the case of bounded basins.     

Stable and unstable barotropic shelf waves in a coastal current

Abstract

We consider the linearized stability of a barotropic coastal current flowing parallel to a straight coastline over a continental shelf and slope whose depth varies monotonically with distance from the coast. Some necessary conditions for stability and various semi-circle theorems are reviewed for general current profiles and bottom topography. A criterion for topography to be a destabilizing influence is derived. Some general results for stable waves are also described. Analytic solutions are obtained for a piece-wise linear current profile and the exponential depth profile (Buchwald and Adams, 1968). Dispersion diagrams are obtained for a monotonic current profile, where it is shown that the effect of topography is destabilizing, and for a triangular current profile. The dispersion diagrams generally contain a finite number (usually one or two) of unstable waves, and a set of stable waves, which may be infinite in number. The results are applied to some specific coastal regimes.     

Experiments in ocean circulation modelling

Abstract

In a laboratory model ocean, fluid in a rotating tank of varying depth is subjected to “wind-stress”, For a certain range of the parameters, Ekman number E and Rossby number R, a homogeneous fluid displays steady, westward intensified flow. For the same range of E and R, a two-layer fluid can have baroclinic instabilities. The parameter range for the various kinds of instabilities is mapped in a regime diagram. The northward transport in the western boundary current is measured as it varies with Rossby number for both homogeneous and two-layer fluid.     

Turning surface behaviour for internal waves subject to general gravitational fields

Abstract

It is shown that the turning surfaces associated with internal waves in a uniformly rotating, density stratified, Boussinesq fluid in the presence of an arbitrary gravitational field are regular points for the governing eigenvalue differential equation. The results are illustrated for two particular examples that have geophysical and astrophysical significance, namely radially directed spherical gravity, and the gravitational field in a rapidly rotating cylinder.     

On the derivation of the energy flux of linear magnetohydrodynamic waves

Abstract

New light is shed on the derivation of the energy flux of the linear MHD waves. It is shown that, according to a suggestion of Lighthill, the usual perturbation procedure, which starts from the general expression for the energy flux, need not be supplemented by an averaging procedure. As a result, it is shown that to second order in the wave amplitude, a quantity identifiable as the wave energy flux is conserved. Some of the subtleties inherent in the derivation of the pertubation energy equation are discussed.     

Advanced insights into sources of vertical velocity in the ocean

Estimating vertical velocity in the oceanic upper layers is a key issue for understanding ocean dynamics and the transport of biogeochemical elements. This paper aims to identify the physical sources of vertical velocity associated with sub-mesoscale dynamics (fronts, eddies) and mixed-layer depth (MLD) structures, using (a) an ocean adaptation of the generalized Q-vector form of the ω-equation deduced from a primitive equation system which takes into account the turbulent buoyancy and momentum fluxes and (b) an application of this diagnostic method for an ocean simulation of the Programme Océan Multidisciplinaire Méso Echelle (POMME) field experiment in the North-Eastern Atlantic. The approach indicates that w-sources can play a significant role in the ocean dynamics and strongly depend on the dynamical structure (anticyclonic eddy, front, MLD, etc.). Our results stress the important contribution of the ageostrophic forcing, even under quasi-geostrophic conditions. The turbulent w-forcing was split into two components associated with the spatial variability of (a) the buoyancy and momentum (Ekman pumping) surface fluxes and (b) the MLD. Process (b) represents the trapping of the buoyancy and momentum surface energy into the MLD structure and is identified as an atmosphere/oceanic mixed-layer coupling. The momentum-trapping process is 10 to 100 times stronger than the Ekman pumping and is at least 1,000 times stronger than the buoyancy w-sources. When this decomposition is applied to a filamentary mixed-layer structure simulated during the POMME experiment, we find that the associated vertical velocity is created by trapping the surface wind-stress energy into this structure and not by Ekman pumping.     

Steady flow past an island with applications to Bermuda

Abstract

Temperature and salinity data from the vicinity of Bermuda reveal large vertical displacements of the isopycnals of over 100 m close to the island. A model based on the steady flow of an inviscid, stratified ocean past a circularily symmetric island on a rotating plane gives good qualitative agreement. The effects of island slope and nonlinearities are accounted for in a perturbation procedure.

In an anomalous area over the left slope of the island (looking downstream) large steps were observed in the temperature and salinity profiles. The theoretical flow is shown to have a minimum Richardson number in this region. In a quasi-empirical manner it is possible to compute a Richardson number profile from the observed density data. This procedure gives values very close to that needed for instability to be possible suggesting that instabilities promote mixing and the development of the observed layers.     

The generation of baroclinic Rossby waves by stationary and and translating currents part 1. Stationary current forcing

Abstract

This paper investigates the generation of linear, baroclinic Rossby waves by an imposed current distribution, in a reduced gravity ocean, both with and without an eastern coast. A zonal current is impulsively applied and maintained along the northern edge of the domain of solution. Using Green's function techniques, analytical solutions are found, and these are evaluated for small times. Numerical solutions are obtained for larger times. The upper layer depth field consists of a transient response, due to the sudden application of the current. Maintenance of the current causes a response which is singular along the line of imposed non-zero h _y. The interior field decays with time (this is shown asymptotically). The parameters used are appropriate for the mid-latitude North Pacific, and the results are relevant to sudden transport changes in the North Pacific Current.     

On open boundary conditions for three dimensional primitive equation ocean circulation models

Abstract

An open boundary condition is constructed for three dimensional primitive equation ocean circulation models. The boundary condition utilises dominant balances in the governing equations to assist calculations of variables at the boundary. The boundary condition can be used in two forms. Firstly as a passive one in which there is no forcing at the boundary and phenomena generated within the domain of interest can propagate outwards without distorting the interior. Secondly as an active condition where a model is forced by the boundary condition. Three simple idealised tests are performed to verify the open boundary condition, (1) a passive condition to test the outflow of free Kelvin waves, (2) an active condition during the spin up phase of an ocean, (3) finally an example of the use of the condition in a tropical ocean.     

Internal waves in a rotating stratified fluid in an arbitrary gravitational field

Abstract

Small amplitude oscillations of a uniformly rotating, density stratified, Boussinesq, non-dissipative fluid are examined. A mathematical model is constructed to describe timedependent motions which are small deviations from an initial state that is motionless with respect to the rotating frame of reference. The basic stable density distribution is allowed to be an arbitrary prescribed function of the gravitational potential. The problem is considered for a wide class of gravitational fields. General properties of the eigenvalues and eigenfunctions of square integrable oscillations are demonstrated, and a bound is obtained for the magnitude of the frequencies. The modal solutions are classified as to type. The eigenfunctions for the pressure field are shown to satisfy a second-order partial differential equation of mixed type, and the equation is obtained for the critical surfaces which delineate the elliptic and hyperbolic regions. The nature of the problem is examined in detail for certain specific gravitational fields, e.g., a radially symmetric field. Where appropriate, results are compared with those of other investigations of waves in a rotating fluid of spherical configuration and the novel aspects of the present treatment are emphasized. Explicit modal solutions are obtained in the specific example of a fluid contained in a rigid cylinder, stratified in the presence of vertical gravity, with the buoyancy frequency N being an arbitrary prescribed function of depth.     

On the wave field generated by a variable wind

Abstract

By using an empirical expression relating the rate of increase in wave energy to the local wind speed, an equation for the phase speed at the peak of the wave spectrum is derived. The solution of the equation is determined for some simple wind fields. In particular, the wave field caused by a localised storm moving steadily over an unbounded ocean is considered. It is also shown that only a small fraction of the momentum transferred from the wind into the water propagates away from a local storm area in the form of wave momentum.     

On the hyperbolic nature of the equations of alluvial river hydraulics and the equivalence of stable and energy dissipating shocks

Abstract

The depth-averaged hydraulic equations augmented with a suitable bed-load sediment transport function form a closed system which governs the one-dimensional flow in an alluvial river or channel. In this paper, it is shown that this system is hyperbolic and yields three families of shock-wave solutions. These are determined to be temporally stable in restricted regions of the (H, F ₀)-plane, via the Lax shock inequalities. Further, it is demonstrated that this criterion is equivalent to the energy dissipation criterion developed by Needham and Hey (1991).     

The incidence of internal waves onto a thin submerged barrier

Abstract

The problem of oblique incidence of internal ocean waves on a thin submerged ocean barrier is considered when the ocean has exponential density stratification. A Wiener-Hopf approach is used combined with numerical evaluation of series. Results for the reflected energy are obtained and reveal a complex dependence on incidence and barrier height. Application of this model to waves incident on the Mid-Atlantic ridge suggests that the ridge almosts isolates first mode energy on one side of the ocean from the other side. In certain circumstances there, is a surprising appearance of “barrier” waves. These waves are closely confined to the barrier and propagate along it.     

Modelling the influence of spatially varying hydrodynamics on the cross-sectional stability of double inlet systems

The cross-sectional stability of double inlet systems is investigated using an exploratory model that combines Escoffier’s stability concept for the evolution of the inlet’s cross-sectional area with a two-dimensional, depth-averaged (2DH) hydrodynamic model for tidal flow. The model geometry consists of four rectangular compartments, each with a uniform depth, associated with the ocean, tidal inlets and basin. The water motion, forced by an incoming Kelvin wave at the ocean’s open boundary and satisfying the linear shallow water equations on the f -plane with linearised bottom friction, is in each compartment written as a superposition of eigenmodes, i.e. Kelvin and Poincaré waves. A collocation method is employed to satisfy boundary and matching conditions. The analysis of resulting equilibrium configurations is done using flow diagrams.

Model results show that internally generated spatial variations in the water motion are essential for the existence of stable equilibria with two inlets open. In the hydrodynamic model used in the paper, both radiation damping into the ocean and basin depth effects result in these necessary spatial variations. Coriolis effects trigger an asymmetry in the stable equilibrium cross-sectional areas of the inlets. Furthermore, square basin geometries generally correspond to significantly larger equilibrium values of the inlet cross-sections. These model outcomes result from a competition between a destabilising (caused by inlet bottom friction) and a stabilising mechanism (caused by spatially varying local pressure gradients over the inlets).

     

Long-wave instability of an isolated front

Abstract

The stability of an isolated one-layer reduced gravity front is examined. It is shown that the system is unstable to long-wave disturbances provided merely that a simple condition on the depth profile is satisfied far from the front. The instability does not require the extremum of potential vorticity needed by quasi-geostrophic theory. The instability releases mean kinetic and mean potential energy from the system, but lacking a second layer cannot truly be termed baroclinic instability.