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1.
This study describes the formation of two successive baymouth spits systems on the south‐eastern Brazilian coast and the degradation of the first system. The study area includes the Jureia Beach spit, the deflected Ribeira de Iguape River mouth, the central Iguape sandy headland, the Icapara Inlet of the Mar Pequeno Lagoon and the northern end of the Comprida Island barrier spit. The wave and river flow patterns were combined with the coastline evolution and the alongshore migration rates deduced from satellite images. Initially, both spits showed convergent alongshore migration rates equal to or less than 83 m/yr. However, the extreme river flow due to high rainfall during a very strong El Niño event in 1983 eroded the inland side of the Jureia Beach spit, which finally retreated due to wave erosion. In 1989, a sand bank emerged in the river mouth, which attached to the central headland forming a recurved northeastward spit. In 1994, the high fluvial discharge associated with another very strong El Niño event caused the landward migration of the new spit and emersion of a second sand bank. This second sand bank merged with the Jureia Beach spit in 1997 at an alongshore migration rate of 1795.6 m/yr. Wave erosion of the central headland continued and the attached spit disappeared in 2000. In 2009, the headland erosion merged the river mouth and the Icapara Inlet, which resulted in flanking baymouth spits in a configuration that remains today. Therefore, two models for the formation of baymouth spits have been documented for wave‐dominated microtidal coasts in humid tropical regions with intense fluvial discharge. The convergent longshore migration of the spits is controlled by both the bidirectional longshore drift and the fluvial discharge, the latter eroding the fronting spit, supplying sediments and acting as a hydraulic blockage for longshore drift. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
This paper addresses a series of geomorphic questions relating to large‐scale (> 1 km), long‐term (100 – 1,000 years) coastal planshape evolution. Previous research on soft‐cliff coasts has recognised the role of protective fronting beach volumes on reducing rates of cliff toe retreat. However, it is the maintenance of this critical threshold that ultimately determines two contrasting modes of shoreline behaviour: Mode A, in which there is little beach sediment and shoreline evolution is controlled by material strength; and, Mode B, when ample beach sediment means that shoreline evolution is controlled by longshore sediment transport. Here we use a numerical model (SCAPE) to investigate temporal and spatial changes in beach volume on a broader range of feedbacks than considered in previous models. The transition between Mode A and Mode B coasts is defined by relative sediment inputs to outputs and used to explore how these contrasting modes control the evolution of an initial linear frontage exhibiting longshore changes in cliff lithology (material resistance and the proportion of beach grade material in the eroded bedrock). Under Mode A, relative changes in material resistance result in long term heterogeneous rates of retreat, which result in the development of persistent headland and embayment features. However, under Mode B, feedbacks between coastal planshape, longshore sediment transport, beach volume and wave energy result in steady state retreat rates regardless of longshore variations in resistance. Results are compared and contrasted to previous simulations and site specific examples and a conceptual model of Mode A and Mode B interactions presented. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
Linear sandbanks appear in the lee of coastal headlands where the hydrodynamics are dominated by strong tidal currents and the seabed is characterized by an abundance of sands. They may develop as symmetrical sandbanks on either sides of the headland or as an unique banner bank. The present study numerically investigates the combined effects of waves and tide on the initial development of headland-associated sandbanks. A morphological model based on the coupling of the wave propagation module SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) with the three-dimensional circulation module COHERENS (COupled Hydrodynamical-Ecological model for REgioNal and Shelf seas) is applied to an idealized Gaussian shaped headland for waves conditions varying in heights and directions at the offshore boundary. The coupling considers the effects of the interactions between the wave and current bottom boundary layers, namely the enhanced levels of turbulence near the bottom and the increase of the total bottom shear stress. Waves substantially modify the initial development of sandbanks formed by suspension narrowing their width and reorienting them along the side of the headland. They weakly impact the morphogenesis of sandbanks by bedload favoring on a short-time scale the growth of symmetric circular-shaped features and a central depositional spit prolonging the headland tip. Waves of transverse directions toward the tip of the headland contribute to the initiation by suspension of a well-developed feature in the headland side of low energy limiting the seabed evolution in the exposed area.  相似文献   

4.
Bastos  A.  Collins  M.  Kenyon  N. 《Ocean Dynamics》2003,53(3):309-321
Numerical simulations of tidal flow and sand transport around a coastal headland (Portland Bill, southern UK) were undertaken to investigate patterns of sand transport during the development of tidally induced transient eddies. Results obtained from a 2-D finite-element hydrodynamic model (TELEMAC-2D) were combined with a sediment transport model (SEDTRANS), to simulate the sand transport processes around the headland. Simulation of the tidal flow around Portland Bill has shown the formation and evolution of tidally induced transient eddies, around the headland. During the evolution of these transient eddies, no current-induced bedload (transport) eddy is formed for either side of the headland. Net bedload sand transport direction, around a coastal headland, is the result of instantaneous gradients in bedload transport rates, during flood and ebb flows, rather than the average (residual) flow. Thus, the use of residual (water) circulation to describe patterns of sediment movement as bedload is not an appropriatedapproach. In the case study presented here, the distinct characteristics of the coastal and seabed morphology around the Isle of Portland (i.e. headland shape and the bathymetry) indicate that these parameters can be influencing tidal (flow) and sediment dispersion around the headland. Such an interpretation has broader implications and applications to headland-associated sandbanks elsewhere.Responsible Editor: Hans Burchard  相似文献   

5.
A coastal prediction system for Tampa Bay, comprised of a numerical circulation model and Lagrangian particle transport model, rapidly produces hindcast/forecast simulations that alert authorities to high impact areas following the introduction of hazardous material into the bay. The effectiveness of the prediction system as an event response tool is evaluated during an anhydrous ammonia spill. A week-long simulation predicts the trajectory of the material due to winds and currents. Physical transport of the model particles alternates from being tidally driven to being driven both by wind action and residual circulation. A forecast simulation showing particle distribution drove field sampling that resulted in the detection of a Pseudo-nitzschia bloom likely initiated from excess ammonium in the bay. An online component of the coastal prediction system is in development to better manage response and mitigation efforts for future hazardous material spills in Tampa Bay.  相似文献   

6.
A three-dimensional primitive-equation model is used to simulate the Long Island Sound (LIS) outflow for a 1-year (2001) period. The model domain includes LIS and New York Bight (NYB). Tidal and wind forcing are included, and seasonal salinity and temperature variations are assimilated. The model results are validated with the HF radar, moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP), and ferry-based ADCP observations. The agreement between simulated and observed flow patterns generally is very good. The difference in seasonal mean currents between the model and moored ADCP is about 0.01 m/s; the correlation of dominant velocity fluctuations between the model and HF radar is 0.83; and the difference in mean LIS transport between the model and shipboard ADCP is about 5%. However, the model predicts a prominent tidally generated headland eddy not supported by the HF radar observation. The model sensitivity study indicates that the tides, winds, and ambient coastal front all have important impact on the buoyant outflow. The tides and winds cause stronger vertical mixing, which reduces the surface plume strength. The ambient coastal front, on the other hand, tends to enhance the plume.  相似文献   

7.
Sea stacks are common and striking coastal landforms, but few details are known about how, how quickly, and under what conditions they form. We present numerical and analytical models of sea stack formation due to preferential erosion along a pre‐existing headland to address these basic questions. On sediment‐rich rocky coasts, as sea cliffs erode and retreat, they produce beach sediment that is distributed by alongshore sediment transport and controls future sea cliff retreat rates. Depending on their width, beaches can encourage or discourage sea cliff erosion by acting either as an abrasive tool or a protective cover that dissipates wave energy seaward of the cliff. Along the flanks of rocky headlands where pocket beaches are often curved and narrow due to wave field variability, abrasion can accelerate alongshore‐directed sea cliff erosion. Eventually, abrasion‐induced preferential erosion can cut a channel through a headland, separating it from the mainland to become a sea stack. Under a symmetrical wave climate (i.e. equal influence of waves approaching the coastline from the right and from the left), numerical and analytical model results suggest that sea stack formation time and plan‐view size are proportional to preferential erosion intensity (caused by, for example, abrasion and/or local rock weakness from joints, faults, or fractures) and initial headland aspect ratio, and that sea stack formation is discouraged when the sediment input from sea cliff retreat is too high (i.e. sea cliffs retreat quickly or are sand‐rich). When initial headland aspect ratio is too small, and the headland is ‘rounded’ (much wider in the alongshore direction at its base than at its seaward apex), the headland is less conducive to sea stack formation. On top of these geomorphic and morphologic controls, a highly asymmetrical wave climate decreases sea stack size and discourages stack formation through rock–sediment interactions. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
The potential for rapid coastline modification in the face of sea-level rise or other stressors is alarming, since coasts are often densely populated and support valuable infrastructure. In addition to coastal submergence, nutrient-related water pollution is a growing concern for coastal wetlands. Previous studies found that the Suspended Sediment Concentration (SSC) of coastal wetlands acts as a first-order control of their sustainability, but SSC dynamics are poorly understood. Our study focuses on the Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR) Long Term Ecological Research (LTER) site, a shallow multiple tidal inlet system in the USA. We apply numerical modelling (Delft3D-SWAN) and subsequent analyses to determine SSC dynamics within the VCR. In particular, we consider two important controls on SSC in the system: vegetation (seagrass and salt marsh) and offshore waves. Our results show that vegetation colonies and increased wave energy lengthen water residence time. The reduction in the tidal prism decreases SSC export from the bay via tidal inlets, leading to increased sediment retention in the bay. We found that alongshore currents can enhance lagoon SSC by importing fine sediments from an adjacent inlet along the coastline. Our numerical experiments on vegetation seasonality can improve the understanding of wave climate impact on coastal bay sediment budget. Offshore waves increase sediment export from coastal bays, particularly during winter seasons with low vegetation density. Therefore, our study can help managers and stakeholders to understand how to implement restoration strategies for the VCR. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
The Darss–Zingst peninsula at the southern Baltic Sea is a typical wave-dominated barrier island system which includes an outer barrier island and an inner lagoon. The formation of the Darss–Zingst peninsula dates back to the Littorina Transgression onset about 8,000 cal BP. It originated from several discrete islands, has been reshaped by littoral currents, wind-induced waves during the last 8,000 years and evolved into a complex barrier island system as today; thus, it may serve as an example to study the coastal evolution under long-term climate change. A methodology for developing a long-term (decadal-to-centennial) process-based morphodynamic model for the southern Baltic coastal environment is presented here. The methodology consists of two main components: (1) a preliminary analysis of the key processes driving the morphological evolution of the study area based on statistical analysis of meteorological data and sensitivity studies; (2) a multi-scale high-resolution process-based model. The process-based model is structured into eight main modules. The two-dimensional vertically integrated circulation module, the wave module, the bottom boundary layer module, the sediment transport module, the cliff erosion module and the nearshore storm module are real-time calculation modules which aim at solving the short-term processes. A bathymetry update module and a long-term control function set, in which the ‘reduction’ concepts and technique for morphological update acceleration are implemented, are integrated to up-scale the effects of short-term processes to a decadal-to-centennial scale. A series of multi-scale modelling strategies are implemented in the application of the model to the research area. Successful hindcast of the coastline change of the Darss–Zingst peninsula for the last 300 years validates the modelling methodology. Model results indicate that the coastline change of the Darss–Zingst peninsula is dominated by mechanisms acting on different time scales. The coastlines of Darss and the island of Hiddensee are mainly reshaped by long-term effects of waves and longshore currents, while the coastline change of the Zingst peninsula is due to a combination of long-term effects of waves and short-term effects caused by wind storms.  相似文献   

10.
Small rivers commonly discharge into coastal settings with topographic complexities - such as headlands and islands - but these settings are underrepresented in river plume studies compared to more simplified, straight coasts. The Elwha River provides a unique opportunity to study the effects of coastal topography on a buoyant plume, because it discharges into the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the western side of its deltaic headland. Here we show that this headland induces flow separation and transient eddies in the tidally dominated currents (O(100 cm/s)), consistent with other headlands in oscillatory flow. These flow conditions are observed to strongly influence the buoyant river plume, as predicted by the “small-scale” or “narrow” dynamical classification using Garvine's (1995) system. Because of the transient eddies and the location of the river mouth on the headland, flow immediately offshore of the river mouth is directed eastward twice as frequently as it is westward. This results in a buoyant plume that is much more frequently “bent over” toward the east than the west. During bent over plume conditions, the plume was attached to the eastern shoreline while having a distinct, cuspate front along its westernmost boundary. The location of the front was found to be related to the magnitude and direction of local flow during the preceding O(1 h), and increases in alongshore flow resulted in deeper freshwater mixing, stronger baroclinic anomalies, and stronger hugging of the coast. During bent over plume conditions, we observed significant convergence of river plume water toward the frontal boundary within 1 km of the river mouth. These results show how coastal topography can strongly influence buoyant plume behavior, and they should assist with understanding of initial coastal sediment dispersal pathways from the Elwha River during a pending dam removal project.  相似文献   

11.
Shoreline evolution due to longshore sediment transport is one of the most important problems in coastal engineering and management. This paper describes a method to predict the probability distributions of long-term shoreline positions in which the evolution process is based on the standard one-line model recast into a stochastic differential equation. The time-dependent and spatially varying probability density function of the shoreline position leads to a Fokker–Planck equation model. The behaviour of the model is evaluated by applying it to two simple shoreline configurations: a single long jetty perpendicular to a straight shoreline and a rectangular beach nourishment case. The sensitivity of the model predictions to variations in the wave climate parameters is shown. The results indicate that the proposed model is robust and computationally efficient compared with the conventional Monte Carlo simulations.  相似文献   

12.
Beach profile data, collected twice per year at 19 stations over a 25 km length of coastline in Tremadoc Bay, have been analysed to quantify the inter-annual variability in beach levels over a 7 year period and the results compared against the output of a numerical model. Using hourly wind data as forcing, the morphological development of northern Tremadoc Bay was simulated by wave, tidal, longshore transport, total transport and bed level change models. The modelling methodology was efficient and innovative, allowing realistic simulations of long duration with a time step of 1 h, hence capturing the high frequency nature of wind events. The model was run for each of the 7 autumn/winter periods (generally November–April) and the modelled net change in beach levels compared with the data from all 19 stations. The model results had reasonable agreement with the beach profile surveys. However, the observed magnitude of bed level change in the bay lagged the model output by 1 year, indicating that sediment processes acting over a larger area are important in a relatively localised study of inter-annual variability.  相似文献   

13.
The behavior of electric and magnetic field variations over the eastern coastal region of North America is studied using a scaled laboratory electromagnetic analogue model. The model source frequency used simulates a period of 1 h in the geophysical scale. The results indicate that deflection and conductive channelling of induced electric current is important for both the E-polarization (northeast-southwest direction of the electric field of the source) and the H-polarization (northwest-southeast) of the source field. In the model, conductive channelling occurs through the Strait of Belle Isle, Cabot Strait, and in the St. Lawrence River. Current deflection is particularly prevalent around the southeast coast of Newfoundland for both E- and H-polarization, and around the northeast coastline of Nova Scotia for E-polarization. The model results also show current deflection by cape and bay coastal features, as well as by ocean depth contours.A comparison of model measurements for the cases of a uniform source field and a line current source indicate that the nature of the source field has a measurable but surprisingly small effect on the vertical to horizontal magnetic field ratio for both E- and H-polarizations, and negligible effect on the magnetotelluric ratio for coastal regions.The model fields in coastal regions were found to be strongly influenced by induced currents, deflected and channelled by the coastline and ocean bathymetry, and were dependent on the nature and particularly the polarization of the source field. Thus, along the complex coastline of eastern North America, a wide range of electric and magnetic field values should be expected. In some regions the coast effect, measured by the vertical to horizontal magnetic field ratio at the coast, could be expected to be extremely small or absent, while in other regions the ratio could approach a value as large as unity for variations of 1 h period.  相似文献   

14.
The electric and magnetic field variations across bay and cape coastlines are determined from scaled laboratory analogue models. The effect on the field response of such features along an otherwise straight coastline is limited to a distance approximately equal to the dimensions (diameter of the bay or cape) of the irregularity. For the E-polarization of the source field the perturbations in Hz and Hy are more confined, mainly to the immediate region of the bay or cape. The coast effect Hz/Hy for this polarization, and variations with a 4.2 min. period, is approximately a factor of two larger for the cape than for the bay, while the straight coastline Hz/Hy is roughly mid-way between the cape and bay values. For H-polarization the coast effect is again approximately a factor of two larger for the cape than for the bay, but both values are larger than the value for a straight coastline. The response of the various field components to the bay and cape features is decreased at longer periods, and as a measure, the coast effect is approximately a factor of 1.2 greater for the cape than for the bay for a 42 min. period as compared with the factor of 2 for a 4.2 min. period. The bay and cape deflect the induced currents flowing in the ocean and modify the currents diffusing into the land.This study demonstrates that data from coastal sites may be unreliable for correcting magnetic surveys or for analyses of short period geomagnetic source-field variations.  相似文献   

15.
There are four extensive sandbanks in the vicinity of the Isle of Portland, a headland in the English Channel. The formation and maintenance of the two most prominent of these sandbanks (one on either side of the headland) can largely be explained by net bedload convergence, driven by instantaneous headland eddies generated by tidal flow past the headland. However, there are also two less prominent sandbanks (again, one on either side of the headland), which are not located in zones of bedload convergence. It is suggested here that these latter two sandbanks were formed when the Isle of Portland was isolated from the mainland by a tidal strait. Relative sea-level data and radiocarbon dates indicate that this would have occurred ca. 9–7 ka BP, prior to the closure of the strait by sedimentation. Tidal flow through this strait generated eddy systems in addition to the headland eddies, leading to the formation of associated headland/island sandbanks. At 7 ka BP, sedimentation resulted in closure of the strait, leading to the present-day headland configuration, and subsequent reworking of these now moribund sandbanks formed by the strait. A series of idealised morphological model experiments, parameterised using bedrock depths and glacial isostatic adjustment model output of relative sea level, are here used to simulate this hypothesised sequence of sandbank evolution over the Holocene. The results of the model experiments are corroborated by in situ observations of bedforms and sediment characteristics, and by acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data applied to predictions of bedload transport over the sandbanks. In addition to demonstrating the mechanism which leads to the formation of sandbanks by tidal flow through a strait, the model results show that upon subsequent closure of such a strait, these sandbanks will no longer be actively maintained, in contrast to sandbanks which are continuously maintained by headland eddies.  相似文献   

16.
In order to determine wave transformations in an elongated bay, a numerical solution was used to interpret yearlong records of bottom pressure and wind velocity obtained at the mouth and head of Concepción Bay, on the Gulf of California side of the Baja California peninsula. Observed wind waves were predominantly produced by southeastward winds in the winter and north–northwestward winds in the summer. Typical mean wave periods at the bay entrance were between 3 and 5 s. In contrast, the waves at the head of the bay had predominant periods <3 s. The energetic long-period swell waves were dissipated somewhere in the bay as they were not observed at the head of the bay. This study centered in identifying the effects that caused swell waves to attenuate in the bay. The ‘Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN)’ model was used to determine the cause for such wave attenuation. Model results showed that swell waves were attenuated because of the combined effects of bottom friction, wave breaking, whitecapping, refraction and wave blocking by the coastline. Most of the attenuation (close to 90%), however, was caused by wave blocking owing to the change of coastline orientation of the bay. This wave blocking mechanism should therefore be explored further in embayments of complex coastline morphology.  相似文献   

17.
Based on multi-temporal topographic maps, remote sensing images and field surveys covering the entire coastal zone of mainland China, the coastlines of six periods since the early 1940 s were extracted. Coastline changes over the last 70 years were then analyzed in terms of coastline structure, coastline fractals, coastline change rates, land-sea patterns, and bay areas. The results showed that mainland coastline structure changed dramatically, and due to the significant coastline artificialization mainly driven by sea reclamation and coastal engineering, the remaining natural coastline merely accounts for less than one third at present. Coastline fractal dimension represented an overall spatial pattern of "north entirety south"; however, the discrepancy between the north and south coast was apparently narrowed due to dramatic coastline artificialization of northern China which in turn altered the whole pattern. Patterns and processes of land-sea interchange along the mainland coast were complex and varied spatially and temporally, with over 68% advancing toward sea and 22% retreating toward land. The net growth of land area was nearly 14.2 ×103 km2 with an average growth rate of 202.82 km2 a??; and coast retreat was characterized by area decrease of 93 bays with a magnitude of 10.1 ×103 km2 and an average shrinking rate up to 18.19% or an average shrinking speed up to 144.20 km2 a??, among which the total area of Bohai shrunk by 7.06%, with an average annual loss amounting to 82 km2. The dramatic coastline changes along mainland China have brought about kinds of challenges to the coastal environment, therefore the integrated management, effective environment protection and sustainable utilization of coastlines is urgent.  相似文献   

18.
Underway current velocity profiles were combined with hydrographic profiles at the entrance to Tongoy Bay, an equatorward facing bay in north-central Chile, with the objective of determining its exchange hydrodynamics. To the west, Tongoy Bay is bounded by Lengua de Vaca Point, a ~6 km-long northward protruding peninsula. Observations were obtained during three surveys (April 2005, December 2005, May 2009) along cross-bay transects for at least one full day. During the surveys, winds were upwelling-favorable and displayed diurnal variations. Non-tidal (tidally averaged) flows showed a consistent clockwise or southern hemisphere cyclonic, recirculation during the three surveys. This recirculation was likely part of a cyclonic gyre (10–20 km in diameter), not entirely resolved by the surveys, and formed by flow separation off Lengua de Vaca Point. Estimates of the baroclinic pressure gradient, combined with analytical solutions of density-driven and wind-driven flows, indicated that the recirculation in Tongoy Bay was nearly in geostrophic balance. An ageostrophic contribution to the dynamics was related to frictional effects derived from local upwelling-favorable winds. A linear superposition of the analytically derived density-driven and wind-driven exchange resulted in a flow pattern that resembled the observed net exchange flows at the bay mouth.  相似文献   

19.
《Advances in water resources》2005,28(10):1040-1047
The prediction of watertable fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is important for coastal management. However, most previous approaches have based on the one-dimensional Boussinesq equation, neglecting variations in the coastline and beach slope. In this paper, a closed-form analytical solution for a two-dimensional unconfined coastal aquifer bounded by a rhythmic coastline is derived. In the new model, the effect of beach slope is also included, a feature that has not been considered in previous two-dimensional approximations. Three small parameters, the shallow water parameter (ε), the amplitude parameter (α) and coastline parameter (β) are used in the perturbation approximation. The numerical results demonstrate the significant influence of both the coastline shape and beach slopes on tide-driven coastal groundwater fluctuations.  相似文献   

20.
A relatively unknown coastal zone of southern Mozambique in Africa is covered by vast mobile and stabilized dunefields. The aeolian dynamics of these transgressive dunefields are studied based on mobility and stability models, statistical analysis of climate data and topographic profiles. Detailed analyses of regional winds, rainfall records, atmospheric temperature records and annual monitoring of dune migration rates helped to find reliable data about instantaneous aeolian sand transport rates, wind drift potential, dune mobility and dune migration rates. The data obtained suggest that the coastal transgressive dunefields are controlled by the southeast winds, availability of loose sediments on the beach, the presence of headland boundary between Maputo and Gaza provinces and the appropriate deposition spaces between the coastline and lacustrine‐lagoon systems. Two distinctive segments of transgressive dunefields were identified in the region studied, including the northern segment of Maputo province with active (mobile) and semi‐vegetated dunes that migrate 23 m/yr landward, and Gaza province dunefields with stabilized (vegetated) and semi‐vegetated dunes. The data obtained in this research have considerable potential to make a valuable contribution to the study of coastal dunefields. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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