振荡流层移输沙条件下悬沙层泥沙扩散系数垂向分布特征研究

层移输沙是海岸带泥沙运动的主要形式之一,其垂向悬沙浓度分布规律的研究一直是海岸工程关心的重点。一般情况下,经典的纯扩散模型被用来描述和解释悬沙浓度的试验数据,该模型认为周期平均悬沙浓度主要由参考浓度、泥沙沉速和泥沙扩散系数确定。泥沙扩散系数可以由泥沙沉速和悬沙浓度的垂向梯度反演得到。既往研究大多直接给出泥沙扩散系数的结果,对于不同反演计算方法间结果差别的研究较少。本研究汇总了已有振荡流层移输沙试验数据,采用曲线拟合方法和直接差分方法计算了相应的泥沙扩散系数,研究表明两种方法得到的计算结果在垂向位置z 0.15 m处差异不大,随着垂向位置的升高,差分方法的计算结果略微大于拟合方法。考虑到拟合方法可以得到连续的泥沙扩散系数垂向分布,本研究推荐使用幂函数形式的曲线拟合方法求解悬移泥沙扩散系数。基于此,对比分析了层移输沙悬沙层泥沙扩散系数随泥沙粒径、振荡流周期、均方根流速和振荡流类型等物理参数的变化规律。在纯振荡流层移输沙条件下,泥沙扩散系数随泥沙粒径的增大而增大,而振荡流周期和均方根流速几乎不影响泥沙扩散系数。在振荡流和定常流共同作用下,泥沙扩散系数受振荡流周期和定常流流速的影响,泥沙扩散系数随着振荡流周期的增大或定常流流速的减小而增大。     

Analytical Study of Longitudinal Mass Flux Due to the Shear Effect in a Tidal Basin

The fundamental nature of the mass flux due to the shear effect is examined analytically in a basin with steady and oscillatory currents to promote a better understanding of the mass transport process in coastal waters. The currents are given from solutions of the simplified motion equation so as to be consistent with the diffusion equation. The matter concentration used is given by an analytical solution of the diffusion equation with the settling flux term contained. Mass flux, yielding the depth-averaged dispersion coefficient, is rather varied vertically in both steady and oscillatory currents. In the oscillatory current with a Stokes layer in particular, the vertical profile of flux is more complicated and even negative flux is induced near the basin floor. This negative flux does not necessarily yield a negative value of the vertically averaged dispersion coefficient. The exact dispersion coefficient given by the flux analysis is realized only in the steady state of the matter concentration distribution, though we can scarcely observe the steady state in the actual sea. The vertically uniform longitudinal dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage is shown to be caused from the vertical complexity of mass flux by the action of the vertical diffusing and the settling flux. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Yangtze Brackish water plume—circulation and diffusion

A system of 3-D linearized momentum equations, the continuity equation and a simplified equation of state for sea water are analytically solved. The solution comprises three parts. The first part is a wind-driven current, the second a jet-like current caused by Yangtze River outflow and the last a density flow. The computed current velocity is obtained by solving an advection-diffusion equation of salinity by a finite-difference method. The results show that the Yangtze brackish water plume spreads as a large low salinity tongue. At the surface, the turning of the tongue axis is mainly controlled by wind stress, Yangtze run-off and bottom topography. Near the bottom, the axis changes little all the year around. At about 10–15 m depth, there is a sharp halocline in summer, but at deeper layers the vertical distribution is almost always uniform. The computed salinity distribution agrees fairly well with the observed one.     

The intertidal erosion rate of cohesive sediment: a case study from Long Island Sound

Over the past decades, many attempts have been made to generate useful bottom erosion models for the study of cohesive sediment movement. This study addresses some of the key questions involved in determining the functional relationship between erosion rate and bottom shear stress. Current, wave, and turbidity data were collected from a bottom mounted instrument array in a moderately energetic estuarine environment. The bottom shear stress was calculated from a wave–current interaction model. The erosion rate was derived from the observed sediment concentration using a vertical mixing model. Examination of the relationship between erosion rate and bottom stress showed that the erosion rate varied at intertidal frequency. When averaged over the tidal fluctuation, the erosion rate remained approximately constant at low stress, but increased sharply when the shear stress rose above a critical value. This suggests two-stage erosion. The bed has a layered structure, in which a thin layer of loose, high water content material overlies a more consolidated bed. The top layer of high water content material (fluff) was easily disturbed and re-suspended by tidal currents, but the consolidated bottom layer was eroded only under conditions of high shear stress.     

On the vertical distribution of

The aim of this paper is to present an analytical expression for the vertical distribution of the correlation between the horizontal ( ) and vertical ( ) wave velocity components. This quantity, , which appears explicitly in the time-averaged momentum balance equations, has been shown to play an important role in the vertical distribution of wave-induced currents.The proposed formulation for is based on an identity that relates the effective (wave) shear stress to the effective (wave) normal stresses ( ² and ²) and to the vorticity of the oscillatory flow gw. This general expression has been applied to simplified situations and has been shown to degenerate into other existing formulations with comparable simplifying assumptions, viz. irrotational waves in shallow water over an arbitrary bottom topography and breaking waves over a horizontal bottom.The model has also been applied to the case of waves interacting with a depth-varying current over a horizontal bottom, in which preliminary results have been obtained for a simplified situation invoking linear (small-amplitude) wave theory.     

Entrainment of bottom sediment in the Seto Inland Sea in summer

Time series of the vertical distribution of resuspended matter and bottom current were collected concurrently during summer at a few anchored stations in the Seto Inland Sea. The vertical distribution of resuspended matter was measured every hour for about one tidal cycle and the three components of current fluctuation were obtained at each sampling station. Current data at each sampling station show that the bottom is hydraulically smooth.Assuming that the averaged vertical distribution of resuspended matter for one tidal cycle shows a steady state distribution, the settling velocityWs of resuspended matter is estimated to be in the range of 1.2×10^–2 to 5.7×10^–2 cm sec^–1 from analysis of the averaged distributions.The relation between the erosion rate and the bottom shear stress for this study area is investigated and is compared with that for other areas. The results show that the erosion of sediment in the Seto Inland Sea during summer occurs even due to the low bottom shear stress which is considered as almost smooth hydraulically.     

半封闭海区潮波运动问题的构建

利用海底粘滞性条件,首先导出了海底摩擦与海面坡度之间的简单关系式,在此基础上导出了水平流通量与海面坡度的关系式。然后利用连续性方程进一步得到了海面升高即潮位所满足的二阶椭圆型方程,进而导出了以潮位形式给出的半封闭海区岸壁不可穿透条件。最终在给定半封闭海区开边界水位分布的条件下构建了完整的关于潮位分布函数的微分方程边值问题。初步讨论表明,海底摩擦矢量与水平流通量矢量并不在相反的方向上。     

Studies on the Application of Steady State Assumption in 1DV Model for the Estimation of Settling Velocity of Suspended Sediments in a Shallow Estuary

Settling velocity is one of the important parameters in sediment transport modeling of estuaries. The methods adopted for its determination vary from theoretical equations to experimental methods. The theoretical equation generally adopted in the 1DV model include assumptions in order to simplify the solution. It is generally assumed that either the condition is steady or the vertical diffusion is negligible. This study evaluated the relative importance of the two assumptions made for the estimation of settling velocity. Two approaches were adopted: unsteady and negligible vertical diffusion (NS-NVD) and steady with vertical diffusion (S-VD) to estimate the settling velocity. The Muthupet Estuary in the Coromandal coast of India was selected for the study. The S-VD approach estimated settling velocity fairly well at the two locations with appreciable vertical diffusion. The NS-NVD approach was observed to be superior for estimating settling velocity at shallow reaches of the estuary having low flow velocity. The calculated settling velocity was further applied in 1DV model to predict the suspended sediment concentration. The S-VD approach predicted suspended sediment concentration at those locations with appreciable vertical diffusion with an R² value of 0.82 against 0.67 for the NS-NVD approach. At the other shallow reach of the estuary with low flow velocity, the NS-NVD approach gave an R² value of 0.822 against 0.71 for the S-VD approach. The vertical diffusion was observed to play a secondary role at those locations which are shallow with a water depth of 0.6 m and with a low flow velocity of the order of 0.01 m/s. The study demonstrated that localized hydrodynamic conditions influence the method adopted for the estimation of settling velocity.     

A quasi-three-dimensional numerical prediction model of salinity structure in Bohai Sea and Huanghai Sea

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Effect of the kelp Laminaria hyperborea upon sand dune erosion and water particle velocities

This paper presents a set of results from a laboratory study on water wave propagation above submerged vegetation growing in the surf zone and the effect of submerged vegetation on dune erosion. The study has focused on the kelp Laminaria hyperborea. The reason is that this kelp is commercially harvested along the Norwegian coast and there is a need to obtain better knowledge on the possible consequences of this harvesting. Experiments were run with irregular waves over a sloping bottom, and a kelp field was simulated by 5000 artificial kelp plants in a 1:10 scale. The experiments primarily focused on the effect of kelp upon erosion of a sand dune, wave damping and water velocities. It was found that the water level is a very important factor to the degree of dune erosion, while the kelp has only a minor effect. The kelp does, however, cause significant wave damping and the degree of wave breaking is reduced. It was also found that the kelp modifies the water velocity profile. In a region above the kelp canopy layer, the time-averaged water velocity was shoreward, while the seaward undertow was confined to a region higher up in the water column.     

黄海、渤海盐度准三维数值预报模式

黄海、渤海盐度的垂直结构具有典型的自模性，而其水平分布又受平流、水平扩散效应及径流等因素的影响。本文根据黄海、渤海实测资料拟合了盐度垂直剖面的自模函数，并结合描述表、底层盐度及上均匀层厚度这３个特征量水平分布的方程，给出盐度三维结构的准三维模式。在模式中，综合考虑了海面风和热输入的强迫作用以及流场的平流、侧向混合及底层混合的影响因素，同时还考虑了径流、蒸发及降水的作用，较客观地反映了盐度的三维分布及其变化的物理过程。试报结果分析表明，模式的功能较好，结果令人满意。     

Suspended particles near the bottom in Osaka Bay

The vertical distributions of suspended particles in Osaka Bay were measured by using anin situ beam attenuation meter. The concentration of suspended particles near the bottom increases rapidly toward the bottom where size of sediment is in a range of silt. The settling velocity of suspended particles near the bottom was measured with the use of a settling tower in the laboratory. The settling velocity of the suspended particles with diameter from 10 to 100m is 2×10^–3cm s^–1 to 5×10^–2cm s^–1. The density of the particles ranges from 2.0 to 1.1 and decreases with increasing particle diameter.     

A dispersion equation and dispersion coefficient for material transport in Inland Seas

To analyse material transport in inland seas, a horizontal two-dimensional dispersion equation is derived, and the dispersion coefficient due to the combined effect of vertical turbulent mixing and vertical shear of both a steady current and a tidal current is studied. In the present study, the assumption that velocity is uniform in horizontal planes is not necessary, and velocity has a free vertical profile; thus the dispersion coefficient formulated is general, and is represented by a tensor of the second order. The properties of the dispersion coefficient in the horizontal two-dimensional dispersion model are also investigated, and it is shown that the time-averaged dispersion coefficient due to the tidal current over a tidal period is approximately half that due to the steady current, if the velocity amplitude and the vertical profile of the tidal current are the same as those of the steady current (a similar result was presented byBowden (1965) for horizontal one-dimensional models). Finally, the dispersion coefficient in Hiuchi-Nada (Hiuchi Sound) in the central part of the Seto Inland Sea is evaluated by using the model. The values of the dispersion coefficient in that region range from 10³ cm² s^–1 to 10⁵ cm² s^–1 when vertical turbulent diffusivity is taken to be 50 cm² s^–1.     

A method to estimate the forces exerted by internal solitons on cylindrical piles

Internal soliton is the large amplitude wave existing in the pycnocline, induced by internal tide in the condition of special bottom topography. During its propagation process, the induced disturbance can bring about strong convergence of sea water and sudden strong current (wave-induced-current), which can cause severe threat to the ocean engineering structures, such as oil drilling platform and pipeline. In this paper, Morison’s empirical method, modal separation and regression analyses are introduced to estimate the forces and torques exerted by internal soliton on cylindrical piles. As an example, a limited set of observational data recording a passage of the internal soliton near Dongsha Islands is used to estimate the horizontal velocity and its acceleration in a vertical section for computing the force and torque on a supposed pile, and the estimation results are reasonable. It is shown that, the higher number of the modes retained in the calculation, the better the estimation of velocity profile fits the observational one. A better overall approximation to the real solution can be reached if there are more observational current data acquired in a whole vertical profile.     

Effect of hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom on the tidal dynamics in a rectangular basin

Expressions derived for the friction coefficient in an oscillatory rotating turbulent bottom boundary layer (BBL) over rough, incompletely rough (smoothly rough), and smooth underlying surfaces are incorporated as an individual module into a two-dimensional nonlinear tidal model, and the standard version of the model and its modified analogue are used to discuss the titular subject. It is established that the dynamics of tides in the Taylor basin can change noticeably under the effect of hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom. Such changes occur mainly in the influence domains of amphidromies. In the remaining parts of the basin, relative changes in the amplitudes and phases of tidal sea-surface level elevations do not exceed ±10% and ±10°, respectively. The largest discrepancies of tidal characteristics take place in the cases of the incompletely rough and smooth sea bottoms; the smallest discrepancies, in the case of the rough sea bottom. Estimates for the changes in tidal characteristics that are caused by the usually neglected effects of rotation and phase difference between the bottom friction and the tidal velocity at the upper BBL boundary are presented as well.     

Particulate organic carbon supply to the sea bottom: stable carbon isotope ratio analysis of the sediment trap samples at the mouth of otsuchi bay,Northeastern Japan

An array of sediment traps was deployed for the analysis of the pattern of particulate organic carbon (POC) supply to the sea bottom in April, May and July 1988 at the mouth of Otsuchi Bay (about 80 m depth), Northeastern Japan.On the basis of a simple two-component mixing model using stable carbon isotope ratios, the POC flux was separated into marine planktonic and terrestrial components. Both the planktonic and terrestrial POC fluxes had maximum values at 30 m above the sea bottom throughout the three experiments. The planktonic POC flux showed a significant decrease with depth between 30 m and 10 m or 5 m above the bottom. Vertical supply of the planktonic POC and supply of the resuspended planktonic POC were estimated on the basis of regression lines between water depth and the planktonic POC flux in the depth range where the flux decreases with depth.Vertical supply of the planktonic POC and supply of the resuspended planktonic POC to the sea bottom were largest in May (52.1 mgC m^–2 d^–1 and 19.5 mgC m^–2 d^–1 at 5 m above the sea bottom), and horizontal supplies of the terrestrial POC were almost constant (31.9±3.5 mgC m^–2 d^–1 at 5 m above the bottom) throughout the three experiments.     

Three-dimensional nonlinear random wave groups in intermediate water depth

High waves at ocean occur during a complex space–time evolution of wave groups. In this paper the nonlinear structure of three-dimensional sea wave groups at intermediate water depth is investigated. To this purpose, the Boccotti's Quasi-Determinism theory is firstly applied to describe the linear wave groups when a given exceptionally high crest occurs. Then, the second-order correction to the linear solution is derived for the general condition of three-dimensional wave groups, at a finite water depth. Several numerical applications, finally, have been carried out in order to show how both the spectral bandwidth and the directional spreading modify the nonlinear high waves at different water depth.     

Vertical diffusion in coastal areas—I

The suspended matter in seawater near the bottom is distributed by the effects of sinking and diffusion. The author developed a method of estimation of the vertical eddy diffusivity near the sea bottom and the particle size distribution of bottom sediment, in the case of equilibrium state. This estimation was made by the comparison of measured and computed vertical distribution of beam attenuation. The parameters which were used for the computation were (1) median of the particle size distribution of bottom sediment, assuming that the particle size was a log-normal distribution, and (2) the proportional constant of vertical eddy diffusivity which was proportional to the height from the bottom.As the suspended matter in seawater contains particles of different sizes, the computation of the diffusion and beam attenuation was made for each particle size, and summarizing the results, the vertical distribution of beam attenuation coefficient was computed.In order to estimate the beam attenuation in high particle concentration, an equation by which the effect of overlapping of particle shadow in the light beam was eliminated, was used.     

Resuspension of benthic fluff by tidal currents in deep stratified waters, northern North Sea

Suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentration and properties (particle size and settling velocity), water column and boundary layer dynamics were measured during a 60-d period at a site in 110 m water depth in the northern North Sea. The site was in stratified waters and measurements were made during September–November as the seasonal thermocline was progressively weakening. SPM concentration was low, c. 1 mg dm⁻³ in the surface mixed layer and maximum values of 2 mg dm⁻³ in the bottom mixed layer. The bottom layer was characterised by larger mean particle size. SPM signals in the two layers were decoupled at the start of the period, when the thermocline was strong, but were increasingly coupled as the thermocline progressively weakened. A spring-neap cycle of resuspension and deposition of SPM was observed in the bottom mixed layer. Bed shear stresses were too small to entrain the bottom sediment (a fine sand) but were competent to resuspend benthic fluff: threshold bed shear stress and threshold current velocity at 10 mab were 0.02–0.03 Pa. and 0.18 m s⁻¹, respectively. Maximum SPM concentration in the bottom layer preceded peak spring tide currents by 3 d. Simulation of fluff resupension by the PROWQM model confirms that this was due to a finite supply of benthic fluff: the fluff layer was stripped from the seabed so that fluff supply was zero by the time of peak spring flow. SPM was redeposited over neap tides. Fluff resuspension must have been enhanced by intermittent inertial currents in the bottom layer but unequivocal evidence for this was not seen. There was some resuspension due to wave activity. Settling velocity spectra were unimodal or bimodal with modal values of 2×10⁻⁴–2×10⁻³ mm s⁻¹ (long-term suspension component) and 0.2–5.7 mm s⁻¹ (resuspension component). The slowest settling particles remained in suspension at peak spring tides after the fluff layer had been exhausted. There was evidence of particle disaggregation during springs and aggregation during neaps.     

A numerical study of sea level and current responses to Hurricane Frederic using a coastal ocean model for the Gulf of Mexico

A three-dimensional, nonlinear, primitive equation ocean general circulation model is used to study the response of the Gulf of Mexico to Hurricane Frederic. The model has free surface dynamics and a second order turbulence closure scheme for the mixed layer. Realistic coastlines, bottom topography and open boundary conditions are used in the study. The model has a vertical sigma coordinate with 18 levels, and a horizontal resolution of 0.2°×0.2° for the entire Gulf. The study focuses on hurricane generated sea level, current, and coastally trapped wave (CTW) responses of the Gulf. Time series of sea levels from U.S. coastal tide gauge stations and the numerical model simulation of sea levels and currents on the shelf are used to study sea level, current and CTW responses. Both model sea levels and observations from tide gauge stations show a westward progression of the surge as a CTW response. The results of the study of sea levels and currents indicate that CTW propagate to the west with phase speeds of 7–10 m s^–1. There is also a strong nonlinear interaction between the Loop Current and hurricane induced currents. The surface current attains a maximum of 200 cm s^–1 in the eastern Gulf. The model surface elevation at several locations is compared with tide gauge data. The current meter data at three moorings are also compared with the model currents. The model simulations show good agreement with observed data for the hurricane induced coastally trapped wave, storm surge, and current distribution in the Gulf.