Gravelly shoreface deposits: a comparison of modern and ancient facies sequences

The morphology and dynamics of modern gravel shorefaces are poorly documented. This hinders the interpretation of possible ancient counterparts. A comparative study of a modern (Chesil Beach, England) and an ancient (Baytree Member of the Cardium Formation, Alberta) gravel shoreface shows that the two systems are very similar close to and above sea-level, with a high (about 1 m) gravel plunge step lying below plane-bedded sands and gravels of the beachface. The shoreface at Chesil Beach is dominated by asymmetrical gravel wave ripples. These are oriented offshore near the toe of the shoreface, and onshore in shallower depths. This may reflect offshore movement during storms and landward reworking during fair weather. The Baytree Member is over 12 m thick and comprises over 80% conglomerate. Conglomerate is decimetre-bedded, massive or cross-bedded, with sets over 60 cm thick produced by gravel bedforms migrating alongshore. It is interbedded with discontinuous cm- to dm-bedded sandstones which may be cross-bedded. Pebble fabric and cross-bed orientation both indicate strong alongshore sediment transport. Near the base of the section, pebble orientations suggest that gravel wave-ripples developed below the zone of strong longshore flows. Differences between these two examples may be attributed to different directions of wave approach.     

Tidal-inlets and gravel deposition during the late Norwich Crag (Lower Pleistocene) of north-eastern Suffolk,U.K.

The Norwich Crag of north-eastern Suffolk is mainly composed of near-shore sands representing several sequences (cycles of transgression and regression). It is difficult to separate out the different sequences but the final sequence here is well known for the localised development of beds of flint gravel that have been interpreted as the in-situ remnants of prograding beaches. While a review of the evidence supports the involvement of this sedimentary environment in the overall processes, the evidence shows that virtually only gravels associated with rip-channels represent in-situ beach gravels and that thicker gravel beds are the infill of much larger channels. From consideration of the characteristics of the large channels it is concluded that these large channels were tidal-inlets between prograding barrier islands and that the gravels were derived from the adjacent up-drift beach faces of the barrier-islands.     

Facies and ground-penetrating radar characteristics of coarse-grained beach deposits of the uppermost Pleistocene glacial Lake Algonquin, Ontario, Canada

The lithofacies of the uppermost Pleistocene ( ca 11 800 to 10 400 ¹⁴C yr  bp ), cold-temperate, coarse-grained beach deposits of Lake Algonquin, the precursor of the present Lake Huron of North America, have been studied and interpreted based on analogous features of modern beaches from the same region. Ice foot and ice-cementation develop during winter but, unlike Arctic beaches, ice-related sedimentary features are seldom, if ever, preserved in the Pleistocene and recent deposits of the Great Lakes. Instead, the deposits retain the typical characteristics of wave-dominated, pure gravel and mixed sand and gravel beaches, there including the classical subdivision of infill zone, swash zone/sand run, imbricated zone, coarse flat-clast zone and coastal dunes. These zones form a regular succession on the surface of many modern beaches; however, they seldom occur as quasi-complete vertical successions in older deposits. In the studied uppermost Pleistocene deposits, the various components are separated vertically by erosional contacts (bounding surfaces) readily recognizable on working faces of large sand and gravel pits and mappable in the subsurface by ground-penetrating radar. The lithofacies are sufficiently diagnostic to allow recognition of depositional settings, and the lithofacies architecture allows the deciphering of important geological events, such as: (i) local input of fluvial material onto the shoreface, where it was partially reworked by waves and moved onto the beachface; (ii) occurrence of major storm events; and (iii) repeated rapid transgressions and regressions typical of the glacial-lake precursors of the modern Great Lakes.     

有槽沙坝海岸交叉波浪作用下裂流特征

研究叠加波浪场作用下的裂流特征,有助于全面深入开展海岸裂流的致灾机理及风险评估。为分析水动力和水底地形共同作用下形成的裂流特征,开展了交叉叠加波浪作用下有槽沙坝海岸的裂流流动特征试验,即同时考虑沿岸地形变化（存在沟槽）和交叉波浪共同作用所形成裂流。通过对裂流槽附近ADV（Acoustic Doppler Velocimetry）流速测量结果,分析叠加波浪场和裂流沟槽同时存在时所产生的裂流分布特征。裂流中心位置和宽度受裂流槽和波浪节点共同控制,裂流长度依赖于波高和海岸坡度。无槽情况裂流的驱动力主要是由波浪沿岸不均匀所产生的平均水面沿岸压力梯度,有槽情况裂流的驱动力由平均水面沿岸压力梯度和辐射应力沿岸梯度共同决定,二者量值相对大小依赖于波浪周期。     

Structure of gravel beaches and their relationship to tidal range

The height of accretionary gravel beaches, determined by the vertical distance between the large sphere zone at the seaward margin and the large disc zone at the landward margin, is determined mainly by tidal range. As the beach builds seaward, this height translates into thickness and so the complete thickness of gravel beach accumulations is a good indicator, in the geological record, of tidal range. Beaches with a small tidal range have the zone between the large discs and the large spheres compressed and sometimes steepened. These beaches are characterized mainly by cusps and berms, both of which yield steeply dipping, seaward building, cross‐strata. Beaches built by large, persistent waves generally have a steep profile, whereas those with small wave height appear to have a shallow profile. Cusps generally have extremely well‐sorted gravels, often in an openwork fabric and with a landward crown of coarse gravel that may grade seaward into shape‐sorted, gently dipping gravels. Berms, which may extend for hundreds of metres along the coast, comprise, in section, very well‐sorted cross‐stratified gravels that may intermittently build seaward for a distance >15 m. Extensive selection pavements typify beaches with a high tidal range and comprise sheets of gravel which are well‐sorted and dip at comparatively low angles towards the sea. These selection pavements form beds that, in section, can be >50 m in seaward length; they grow from clasts, supplied to them from swash or backwash, and which are selected by the fabric of the existing sheet. In some cases, the selection pavements can be very mature having only a specific clast shape and size remaining. Total preservation of the beach sequence in the geological record is more likely to take place in areas of rapid deposition of sediments, such as the marine fringes to a fan delta.     

Gravel-topped offshore bar sequences in the Lower Carboniferous of southern Ireland

Within the Kinsale Formation (Lower Carboniferous) of southern Ireland are pebbly sandstones and conglomerates contained in what is known locally as the Garryvoe conglomerate facies. In this facies there are three main groups of lithologies: (a) heterolithic mudrocks and sandstones characterized by a wide variety of wave-produced structures; (b) sandstones dominated by swaley cross-stratification (SCS), parallel lamination, and rare hummocky cross-stratification (HCS); and (c) pebbly sandstones and conglomerates occurring as discrete beds or as gravel clasts dispersed through SCS sets. Successions of the facies comprise units of heterolithic mudrock and rippled sandstone alternating repeatedly with coarsening-upward units of SCS pebbly sandstone capped by top-surface granule and pebble lags. The Garryvoe conglomerate facies accumulated in a system of offshore bars on a muddy shallow-marine shelf that was dominated by waves and currents generated by storms. Sands and gravels were bypassed from a contemporaneous northerly coastal zone to the shelf, where they were moulded by the storm-generated flow into low, broad, sand ridges (offshore bars). The elongate bars were spaced kilometres apart, oriented obliquely to the coast, and separated by muddy interbar troughs. Their surfaces were largely covered by hummocky and swaley forms. Long-term, gradual seaward migration of the offshore bars concentrated gravels on landward flanks from the dispersed pebbly sands that were on the crests and seaward flanks. Exceptionally intense storms could form laterally extensive winnowed gravel lags above thinned bar sequences. Such storms could also flush gravel-bearing turbidity currents into muddy interbar trough areas.     

The lithology of Ogallala gravels and hunter‐gatherer procurement strategies along the Southern High Plains eastern escarpment of Texas,USA

Ogallala gravels are an important lithic material source for stone tool manufacture across the Great Plains. The lithology of eight gravel sample locations along the eastern escarpment of the Southern High Plains has been examined to quantify the composition and variability in Ogallala deposits. In addition, three Ogallala gravel quarry sites have been analyzed to determine how the lithology of Ogallala gravels influenced procurement and tool production strategies. Results indicate deposits of Ogallala gravels differ in their composition related to their position on the landscape, and the types of rocks vary by size and shape. Investigation of the quarry sites has revealed that the lithology of Ogallala gravels had an impact on testing and the initial stages of lithic reduction. Different rock types, however, may have more of an influence on later stages of tool manufacture at nearby campsites and other locations where Ogallala gravels are not as dense. © 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.     

Characteristics of diamondiferous Plio-Pleistocene littoral deposits within the palaeo-Orange River mouth, Namibia

The Orange River, the principal conduit transporting diamonds from hinterland sources to the Namibian coast in post-Cretaceous times, is characterised by an extreme wave dominated delta that has given rise to a progression of coarse rudaceous littoral deposits preserved onshore for > 150 km north of the mouth. Under the long-lived, prevailing vigorous wave, wind and northward longshore drift regimes, the Orange River outfall has been reworked into, amongst others, a series of economically viable, diamondiferous Plio-Pleistocene onshore gravel beach deposits. These placers comprise spits and barrier beaches in the proximal reach within the palaeo-Orange River mouth that, after ca. 5 km northwards, merge into extensive but narrow linear beaches that, in turn after ca. 70 km, give way to pocket beaches. Gravel and diamond size decreases northwards away from the ancestral Orange River mouth. The linear and pocket beach types have considerably higher diamond content but lower average diamond stone size than the two proximal units that are characterised by low diamond grade but comparatively large average diamond size. Given the risk of delineating low grade alluvial diamond deposits accurately, we present here sedimentological reconstructions of the subtidal, intertidal and supra-tidal facies that constitute the spit and barrier beach sequences, based largely on face mapping of exploration trenches and open-cast, mine cuts, as well as the results of large tonnage, sampling campaigns. Diamond distribution is also linked convincingly to basic littoral processes that were operational within the palaeo-Orange River mouth during the complex transgression that gave rise to the + 30 m package in Plio-Pleistocene times. In both the spit and barrier beach settings, the intertidal deposits prove to be the most promising targets whereas the subtidal sediments are the least economic. The constant raking associated with coarse, cobble–boulder-sized gravel foreshore deposits in an energetic micro-tidal wave regime increased the average diamond stone size in the intertidal deposits to 1 to 2 carats per stone (cts/stn), but the lack of fixed trapsites (no competent footwall within the palaeo-Orange River mouth at that level) prohibited the accumulation of substantially enriched diamondiferous gravels. Consequently, grades of only 1.5 to 6 carats per 100 tons (cpht) are realised. The highest grades (2 to 6 cpht) are found in the landward-facing, intertidal beach deposits on the spits where gentle reworking in that sheltered environment had somewhat enriched and preserved the diamond content. Significantly, the low average stone size of ca. 0.5 cts/stn in this lower energy setting probably reflects that of the general diamond population available at that time. In contrast, the sand-rich subtidal deposits in the spit sequence return the lowest grades (0.1 to 0.5 cpht), similar to those in the slightly younger, subtidal transgressive boulder lags of the barrier beaches. However, the stone size in the spit subtidal sediments is also low (0.1 to 0.5 cts/stn) due to the highly mobile, fine-grained character of those deposits, whereas that in the subtidal transgressive lag is large (2 to 3 cts/stn) as a result of the local, semi-permanent turbulence associated with the boulder-sized clasts in these gravel sheets. Diamond distribution is therefore also influenced by littoral facies and associated beach types, in addition to the spatial and temporal parameters that have already been documented for the onshore marine placers of the southern Namibian coast.     

Sedimentology and stratigraphy of a transgressive, muddy gravel beach: Waterside Beach, Bay of Fundy, Canada

Sediments exposed at low tide on the transgressive, hypertidal (>6 m tidal range) Waterside Beach, New Brunswick, Canada permit the scrutiny of sedimentary structures and textures that develop at water depths equivalent to the upper and lower shoreface. Waterside Beach sediments are grouped into eleven sedimentologically distinct deposits that represent three depositional environments: (1) sandy foreshore and shoreface; (2) tidal‐creek braid‐plain and delta; and, (3) wave‐formed gravel and sand bars, and associated deposits. The sandy foreshore and shoreface depositional environment encompasses the backshore; moderately dipping beachface; and a shallowly seaward‐dipping terrace of sandy middle and lower intertidal, and muddy sub‐tidal sediments. Intertidal sediments reworked and deposited by tidal creeks comprise the tidal‐creek braid plain and delta. Wave‐formed sand and gravel bars and associated deposits include: sediment sourced from low‐amplitude, unstable sand bars; gravel deposited from large (up to 5·5 m high, 800 m long), landward‐migrating gravel bars; and zones of mud deposition developed on the landward side of the gravel bars. The relationship between the gravel bars and mud deposits, and between mud‐laden sea water and beach gravels provides mechanisms for the deposition of mud beds, and muddy clast‐ and matrix‐supported conglomerates in ancient conglomeratic successions. Idealized sections are presented as analogues for ancient conglomerates deposited in transgressive systems. Where tidal creeks do not influence sedimentation on the beach, the preserved sequence consists of a gravel lag overlain by increasingly finer‐grained shoreface sediments. Conversely, where tidal creeks debouch onto the beach, erosion of the underlying salt marsh results in deposition of a thicker, more complex beach succession. The thickness of this package is controlled by tidal range, sedimentation rate, and rate of transgression. The tidal‐creek influenced succession comprises repeated sequences of: a thin mud bed overlain by muddy conglomerate, sandy conglomerate, a coarse lag, and capped by trough cross‐bedded sand and gravel.     

Provenance and sediment characteristics of contemporary gravel deposits at Sellicks Beach,eastern shore of Gulf St Vincent,South Australia

Sellicks Beach, located on the eastern shore of Gulf St Vincent, South Australia, is subject to wave-dominated processes and northward longshore transport. During winter, when wave energy is typically vigorous, gravel deposits are exposed across most of the beach, and three step-like berms are well developed. Sand is restricted to a narrow strip that is exposed only at low tide. In contrast, during summer, when wave energy is generally moderate to low, much of the gravel is covered by a thin veneer of sand and only the high berm, on the landward edge of the beach, remains as an obvious feature. Steeply dipping Neoproterozoic to Cambrian strata that outcrop strongly across Sellicks Hill are the original source rocks for the beach gravel; distinctive sedimentary textures, structures and fossils in the cobble-size clasts can be confidently matched with those of the provenance rocks. Much of the sediment entered the modern beach environment as a consequence of coastal erosion of transitional alluvial fan sediments. The oldest alluvial fan sediments are of late Pliocene to earliest Pleistocene age. Mount Terrible Gully provides a conduit for the input of fluvial sediment at the mouth of Cactus Canyon, where clasts as large as boulders accumulate across the beach. Sellicks Beach gravels are subject to longshore transport northwards. Relatively softer clasts, such as those derived from the Heatherdale Shale, are rare beyond Cactus Canyon. In contrast, quartzite clasts are more abundant towards the north. This lithological differentiation is attributed to preferential survivorship of clasts that are physically harder and chemically less reactive. The change in the shapes of clasts northwards, from predominately shingle-like ‘very platy’ and ‘very bladed’ at Cactus Canyon, to more ‘compact’ towards the boat ramp, is in accord with the more massive fabric of the surviving quartzite clasts. At Sellicks Beach, preservation of uplifted, coarse gravels, with entire and comminuted marine molluscan shells, of last interglacial age, provides evidence of neotectonism. At the landward margin of the beach, imbricated gravels in which pore spaces have been infilled with mud, and which show no evidence of modern coastal erosion, may provide evidence of continuing uplift during the recent Holocene. The geological setting, geomorphic framework and modern sedimentary regime at Sellicks Beach combine to provide an exceptionally useful outdoor laboratory for education in field geology.     

青海湖现代滨岸沉积微相及其特征

本文将青海湖滨岸带沉积划分为沿岸砾沙坝、泥坪、沙滩、砾石滩、泻湖和水下风沙堆积六个微相。与国内外其它湖泊滨岸沉积相比,以发育沿岸砾沙坝和水下风沙堆积为其特征。其中规模较大的沿岸砾沙坝和沙滩分布于地形坡度不大（坡度１０°±）和波浪、沿岸流及风力作用强烈的滨岸地区,粒度概率曲线以推移和跳跃总体为主、悬移组份含量少和跳跃总具双跳跃式为特征,垂向层序由分选差（δ_１＞１）的上部粗碎屑物与分选好（δ_１＜１）的下部细碎屑物构成反韵律层;砾石滩主要分布于冲积扇或扇三角洲入湖地带和湖蚀岸边,以砾石均匀、磨圆较好、绝大多数砾石长轴平行湖岸线和最大扁平面倾向湖方向且倾角８°±为特征;泥坪主要分布于湖水动力弱、无大河流注入的湖湾、湖岸地形平缓以及坝后湖水滞流地带;水下风沙堆积以分选好、磨圆好、石英表面具风蚀凹坑、概率曲线呈上凸和双跳跃式总体以及粒度参数δ_１＜１、Ｓ_ｋ＝－０．１５～０．２１、Ｋｇ＝０．７５～１．１３和Ｍ_ｄ＝０．２２～０．０２３ｍｍ为特征。本文对丰富湖泊沉积相内容具有一定意义。     

Tertiary structural relationships between Alps and Apennines: the critical Torino Hill and Monferrato area. Northwestern Italy

The relationship between the Alpine and Apenninic orogenic systems is concealed at the surface by Tertiary sediments of two main tectono-stratigraphic units: the 'Alpine-related' Torino Hill domain and the 'Apennines-related' Monferrato domain. Mapping and structural analyses carried out in the area behind the Mio-Pliocene Apenninic-Padane thrust front allow comparison of the kinematic history of the Torino Hill and Monferrato domains. These are separate by the transpressive Tlio Freddo Deformation Zone' (RFDZ), interpreted here as the superficial expression of a crustal discontinuity along which the Alpine metamorphic basement overrode the Apenninic Ligurian nappes during the Palaeogene.
The Western Monferrato structural setting is the result of: (i) Late Oligocene-Burdigalian transpressive tectonics due to lateral displacement between the Alps-related and the Apennines-related domains; and (ii) compressive post-Messinian tectonics related to northward transport along the main Padane thrust front. Post-Messinian tectonic events affected also the NW-vergent asymmetrical Torino Hill anticline.     

江西抚崇盆地晚白垩世-古新世莲荷组砾石砾组分析

赣杭构造带中、新生代红色粗碎屑岩发育,对红层中砾石组构分析有助于理解红盆形成、演化过程.运用砾组分析方法,对江西抚崇盆地晚白垩世—古新世莲荷组砾岩层的砾性、砾度、砾态及砾向进行分析,并在此基础上对研究区红盆砾岩的物质来源、成因和形成条件等进行综合判断.研究结果表明,莲荷组砾岩为晚白垩世—古新世半干旱—干旱条件下的一套冲积扇相粗碎屑沉积,具有多物源和快速堆积的特点.总体上,砾石成分复杂,风选程度较差,呈次棱角—次圆状,风化程度较低.盆地不同地区砾石成分组合特征具有明显差别,反映了盆地周围复杂的物源供应条件.根据盆地周边出露基岩地层和扁平状砾石产状统计玫瑰花图判断,莲荷组沉积时期,物源主要来自盆地内部的基岩地层以及盆地西南部、西部和东北部.     

Litho-asthenospheric structures of northern Italy as inferred from teleseismic P-wave tomography

Regional three-dimensional inversions of teleseismic P-wave travel time residuals recorded by high-frequency regional and local seismic networks operating along the Western Alps and surrounding regions were carried out and lithosphere and upper mantle P-wave velocity models down to 300 km were obtained.

Residuals of more than 500 teleseismic events, recorded by 98 fixed and temporary seismic stations, have been inverted.

The comparison between real residuals and the ones obtained from tomographic model indicates that the method is able to solve the feature of the regional heterogeneities.

Where the resolution is good, coherent lithospheric and upper mantle structures are imaged. In the shallower layers, high- and low-velocity anomalies follow the structural behaviour of the Alpine-Apenninic chains showing the existence of very strong velocity contrasts. In the deepest layers, velocity contrast decreases however two deep-seated high-velocity structures are observed. The most extended in depth and approximately trending NE-SW has been interpreted as a wreck of the oldest subduction responsible of the Alpine orogenesis. The second one, connected to the northwestern sector of the Apenninic chain, appears to vanish at depths greater than 180 km and is probably due to still active Apenninic roots.

Cross-sections depict the spatial trend of perturbations and in particular outline the sub-vertical character of the Alpine and Apenninic anomalies. Under the Ligurian Sea, the 3-D inversion confirms the uplift of the asthenosphere in agreement with the tectonic evolution of the basin.     

Raised coastal landforms as products of modern process variations, and their relevance in eustatic sea-level studies: examples from eastern Ireland

Products of marine processes occupy a considerable vertical range, which varies along the shore. Extreme waves can both cause erosion and form depositional structures up to several metres above the high tide mark. Temporary supra-elevation of water level by surge or wave set-up shifts effects upward. The preservation potential of products of extreme storms is relatively high, when compared to those associated with more frequent events. The level to which coastal landforms develop depends upon the conditions under which they form; thus sand beach ridges which are related to fairweathcr periods have a restricted height range when compared to gravel beach ridges building up under extreme storms. The varied coastal scenery of eastern Ireland provides many examples of storm-related products (barriers. cliffs, platforms, etc.). They have been related to a latc-Holocene eustatic sea level or even a partly isostatically controlled raised late-Holoccne sea level, but both elevations and apparent tilts can be explained by longshore variations in waves, tides and surges. Such an explanation is more consistent with other studies of latc-Holocene coastal evolution around the Irish Sea basin.     

砂砾岩水力压裂裂缝扩展规律的数值模拟分析

砂砾岩储层一般具有岩性和渗透性变化大、孔隙度低、连通性差、孔隙结构复杂和非均匀性严重等特点,因此,在水力压裂过程中,裂缝扩展形态难以控制,大规模改造难度大。针对国内某典型砂砾岩油藏特征,采用数值计算方法对砂砾岩压裂裂缝的扩展规律进行了研究,包括地应力场、砾石含量和粒径等对裂缝扩展形态及压裂压力的影响。研究表明,砾石的存在增加了压裂裂纹扩展的复杂性,裂纹主要有止裂、偏转、穿透和吸附4种表现模式,但主应力差严格控制着裂纹的走向,随着主应力差的增大,裂纹由总体绕砾扩展转变为总体穿砾扩展,失稳压力随着主应力差的增大而明显减小;砾石含量的多少体现了砂砾岩试样宏观的非均匀性,含量越高均匀性越差,随着砾石含量的提高,裂纹与砾石的相互作用占据主导地位,失稳压力随砾石含量的增加而增大;当砾石体积含量一定时,砾石粒径对压裂压力的影响主要取决于砾石排列的随机性,失稳压力随砾石粒径的增大而略有增大。     

江西抚崇盆地上白垩统河口组砾石统计特征及其地质意义

华东南晚白垩世陆相断陷盆地以发育红色粗碎屑岩为特征。通过对赣杭构造带西段的江西抚崇盆地上白垩统河口组19个砾岩露头测点的砾组分析,对河口组砾岩的砾性、粒度、砾态和砾向等进行了详细研究。总体上砾石成分复杂,分选性较差,磨圆程度中等,呈次棱角－次圆状,风化程度较低。结合红盆周边基岩地层特点,对红盆不同区域砾岩的物质来源、成因和形成条件等进行分析和讨论。研究结果表明,河口组砾岩为晚白垩世半干旱－干旱气候条件下的一套冲积扇和辫状河相粗碎屑沉积,具有多物源和快速堆积的特点。盆地不同地区砾石成分组合特征具有明显差别,反映了盆地周围复杂的物源供应条件。根据盆地基岩地层岩性特点和扁平状砾石倾向玫瑰花图,认为河口组沉积时期,红盆碎屑沉积物主要来自盆地的北东、北、北西和南东部。     

沙坝地形上沿岸流不稳定运动模式变化特性

为研究沙坝地形上沿岸流不稳定运动特征模式变化特性,建立了考虑底摩擦影响的不稳定模型,并用该模型计算了两种沙坝地形(坡度分别为1:40和1:100)上的不稳定特征模式,这些模式内容包括不稳定运动波长、传播速度、不稳定增长率和扰动速度场。将这些结果与忽略底摩擦计算结果进行了比较,分析了底摩擦对不稳定特征模式的影响。上述研究表明沙坝地形上不稳定运动传播速度约为时均沿岸流最大值的0.71~0.79;1:40沙坝地形上产生不稳定运动所用的时间比1:100地形上更短;底部摩擦可以很大程度上抑制沿岸流不稳定运动的产生;一般观测到的(准)韵律形、新月形沙坝都在后剪切区(紧邻时均沿岸流最大值向海方向区域)产生;不稳定运动在沙坝处运动最强,并且坡度越缓,不稳定运动沿岸方向波长越长。