Turbulent kinetic energy and sediment resuspension due to wave groups

Wave-induced sediment resuspension in nearshore regions has been observed occurring in an event-like manner and associated with the passage of wave groups. This paper describes field measurements of turbulent velocities obtained simultaneously with suspended sediment concentration and water surface elevation from Floreat Beach, Perth, Western Australia. The data were used to study the relationship between turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) on suspension events caused by wave groups and the intermittent nature of bottom turbulence production and sediment suspension. The field measurements showed the high TKE events occurred under wave crests, and sometimes under wave toughs, when the wave heights were increasing during the passage of a wave group; the TKE decreased after the maximum wave in the wave group had passed over the measurement location. High suspended sediment concentrations (ssc) and the intermittent high TKE events were not related rather the higher ssc events were associated with a secondary peak in the surface elevation, close to the maxima in the offshore velocity, and “burst” events in the Reynolds stress.     

General velocity formula of boundary layer above mobile sediment bed induced by asymmetric waves

Sediment movement in the wave boundary layer above a mobile sediment bed is complex.A velocity formula for the boundary layer is proposed for sheet flow induced by asymmetric waves above a mobile sediment bed.The formula consists of a free stream velocity and a defect function which contains a phase-lead,boundary layer thickness and mobile sediment bed.Phase-lag of sediment movement is considered in the formula for the mobile sediment bed.The formula needs six dependent variables about asymmetric wave and sediment characteristics.Asymmetry effects on parameters(orbital amplitude,roughness height,bed shear stress,and boundary layer thickness)are properly considered such that the formula can yield velocity differences among onshore,offshore,acceleration,and deceleration stages.The formula estimates the net boundary layer velocity resulting from the mobile sediment bed and asymmetric boundary layer thickness.In addition,a non-constant phase-lead also contributes to the net boundary layer velocity in asymmetric oscillatory sheet flow.Results of the formula are as good as that of a two-phase numerical model.Sheet flow transport induced by asymmetric waves,and the offshore net sediment transport rate with a large phase-lag under velocity-skewed waves,can be adequately estimated by the formula with a power sediment concentration function.     

Bimodal wave spectra in lower Chesapeake Bay, sea bed energetics and sediment transport during winter storms

The transition zone separating estuarine environments from the coastal ocean is characterized not only by distinctive morphological and sedimentary trends but by unique hydrodynamic forces as well. Lower Chesapeake Bay, a large coastal estuary within the Mid-Atlantic Bight of the U.S. East Coast, experiences complex wave and current-induced forces produced during winter storms. Wave and current measurements made near Thimble Shoal Light over five winter seasons show that most storms simultaneously produce both ocean and bay-generated wave trains that appear as distinct bimodal peaks in directional spectra. Analysis of selected storm wave records reveal that lower-frequency ocean waves, although nominally lower in amplitude than higher-frequency bay waves, are roughly equivalent to bay waves in terms of energy expended on beds of fine- to medium-grained sand at either end of the Thimble Shoal Channel. Grain-friction energy dissipation estimates calculated for waves and currents suggest that waves provide more net energy capable of transporting bottom sediment than currents, although strong barotropic flows briefly encountered during a major storm on 13–14 March 1993, exceeded wave energy expended at the bed by almost an order of magnitude. From analyses of wave orbital velocity spectra, it is shown that dual wave trains characterized by differences in peak frequency and direction may assist each other through interactions that increase their combined contribution to frictional energy dissipation and inferred sediment transport at the bed.     

Approximate velocity formula over mobile sediment bed induced by velocity-skewed waves and current

A velocity formula is proposed for flow over a mobile sediment bed induced by velocity-skewed waves and current. The formula is obtained by a separation of waves and current velocities and requires seven free variables related to free stream velocity and sediment characteristics. The formula includes two parts:(1) a wave part consisting of the free stream velocity and defect function, which considers phase lead, wave boundary layer thickness, and mobile bed level, and(2) a current part, which ch...     

A process-based model for sediment transport under various wave and current conditions

The purpose of this study is to investigate the capability of a newly developed process-based model for sediment transport under a wide variety of wave and current conditions.The model is based on the first-order boundary layer equation and the sediment advection-diffusion equation.In particular,a modified low Reynolds number k-e model is coupled to provide the turbulence closure.Detailed model verifications have been performed by simulating a number of laboratory experiments,covering a considerable range of hydrodynamic conditions such as sinusoidal waves,asymmetric waves and wave-current interactions.The model provides satisfactory numerical results which agree well with the measured results,including the time-averaged/dependent sediment concentration profiles and sediment flux profiles,as well as the time series of concentration at given elevations.The observed influences of wave orbital velocity amplitude,wave period and sediment grain size are correctly reproduced,indicating that the fundamental physical mechanisms of those processes are properly represented in the model.It is revealed that the present model is capable of predicting sediment transport under a wide range of wave and current conditions,and can be used to further study the morphodynamic processes in real coastal regions.     

Field measurements of shear stress and friction in the surf zone

Measurements of near-bed shear stress were undertaken in the shallow subtidal zone at Durras Beach, NSW, Australia using a sideways-looking acoustic velocity meter installed within the wave boundary layer. The wave climate was swell-dominated and wave conditions comprised shoaling and breaking waves as well as surf bores. The sediment at the field site was medium-grained sand, and observations of bedform geometry were conducted using a pencilbeam-sonar system. Using frequency-filtering techniques, the measured stresses were partitioned into terms representing turbulent (Reynolds) stress, stresses due to gravity and infragravity-scale oscillatory motions, and wave-turbulence-mean current cross-terms. Gravity wave-orbital scale motions contributed the largest fraction of the stresses, comprising 24% on average, followed by long-wave advection of vertical orbital motion (16%). The presence of wave orbital-scale motions near or at the water/sediment interface was likely due to the porous nature of the seabed, facilitating interfacial flow. Shear stresses did not scale with bed roughness but exhibited a linear relationship with the relative wave height. This indicates that for the experimental conditions, surf zone processes overwhelmed bed roughness effects on shear stress and friction. Calculations of the wave friction factor, f_w, showed that in a natural surf zone, this was a factor 3–4 larger than conventional predictions. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Bed shear stress in the southern North Sea as an important driver for suspended sediment dynamics

This paper addresses the spatial and temporal patterns of drivers for sediment dynamics in coastal areas. The basic assumption is that local processes are dominating. The focus is put on the bed shear stress in the southern part of North Sea giving the basic control for deposition–sedimentation and resuspension–erosion. The wave-induced bed shear stress is formulated using a model based on the concept that the turbulent kinetic energy associated with surface waves is a function of orbital velocity, the latter depending on the wave height and period, as well as on the water depth. Parameters of surface waves are taken from simulations with the wave spectrum model WAM (wave model). Bed shear stress associated with currents is simulated with a 3D primitive equation model, Hamburg Shelf Ocean Model. Significant wave height, bed shear stress due to waves and currents, is subjected to empirical orthogonal functions (EOF) analysis. It has been found that the EOF-1 of significant wave height represents the decrease of significant wave height over the shallows and, due to fetch limitation, along the coastlines. Higher order modes are seesaw-like and, in combination, display a basin-scale rotational pattern centred approximately in the middle of the basin. Similar types of variability is also observed in the second and third EOF of bed shear stress. Surface concentrations of suspended matter derived from MERIS satellite data are analysed and compared against statistical characteristics of bed shear stress. The results show convincingly that the horizontal distribution of sediment can, to a larger extent, be explained by the local shear stress. However, availability of resuspendable sediments on the bottom is quite important in some areas like the Dogger Bank.     

Burst-like sediment suspension events in a sand bed river

In a much quoted paper, Jackson (1976) hypothesized that turbulent [bursting] motions such as those documented in laboratory boundary layers play a major role in alluvial sediment suspension. To date, the hypothesis remained largely untested, due to difficulties in monitoring turbulent suspension in rivers. This study provides field data documenting burst-like turbulent motions over a sandy bed channel and quantifying the role of these motions in sand suspension. The data were collected in a 10 m deep channel of the Fraser River near Mission, British Columbia, Canada. Turbulent fluctuations of both flow components, downstream and normal to the bed, along with the output of an optical suspended sediment sensor, were monitored 1 m above the river bed. Typical flow velocities averaged 0·9 ms⁻¹ at the sensors, where mean suspended sediment concentrations were 500 mgl⁻¹; decimetre height small dunes on the backs of larger, half-metre amplitude dunes covered the channel bed in the area. Brief but intense, burst-like [ejection and inrush] events were identified in the flow records, where they are responsible for a high degree of [intermittency] in shear stress over the dunes: 80 per cent of the turbulent momentum exchange across the 1 m level can be ascribed to such brief (3-8 s duration) events, active under 12 per cent of the time. In addition, the record of fluctuating sediment concentrations reveals these burst-like motions to be highly effective in vertically mixing suspended sediment and thus, ultimately, in maintaining suspended sediment transport above the dune bed. The bulk (60 and 90 per cent in two deployments) of the vertical sediment mixing was accomplished by intense events active some 10 per cent of the time. No discrete recurrence timescale for these ‘burst-like’ mixing events is evident, however. Rather, a continuous variation of return periods was observed as a function of the magnitude of vertical mixing event considered. To that extent, conceptual models of sediment transport in terms of burst events with a predictable recurrence such as proposed by Jackson (1976) may be misleading.     

Experimental study of near-bed concentration and sediment vertical mixing parameter for vertical concentration distribution in the surf zone

Two formulae for the near-bed concentration(C_a) and the sediment vertical mixing parameter(m) are established based on a large scale wave flume experiment.The advantage of the new formulae is that the turbulent kinetic energy induced by wave breaking can be taken into account;the formula for C_a is in terms of the near-bed,time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy,and the formula for m is in terms of depth-and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy.A new expression for suspended sediment load also is established by depth integration of the vertical distribution of the suspended sediment concentration obtained on basis of the new formulae.Equation validation is done by comparing the predicted C_a and m to measurements for different types of waves(regular wave,wave group,and irregular wave),and good agreement is found.The advantages of the proposed formulae over previous formulae also are discussed.     

Relating millimeter-scale turbulence to meter-scale subtidal erosion and accretion across the fringe of a coastal mangrove forest

Within a wave-exposed mangrove forest, novel field observations are presented, comparing millimeter-scale turbulent water velocity fluctuations with contemporaneous subtidal bed elevation changes. High-resolution velocity and bed level measurements were collected from the unvegetated mudflat, at the mangrove forest fringe, and within the forest interior over multiple tidal cycles (flood–ebb) during a 2-week period. Measurements demonstrated that the spatial variability in vegetation density is a control on sediment transport at sub-meter scales. Scour around single and dense clusters of pneumatophores was predicted by a standard hydraulic engineering equation for wave-induced scour around regular cylinders, when the cylinder diameter in the equations was replaced with the representative diameter of the dense pneumatophore clusters. Waves were dissipated as they propagated into the forest, but dissipation at infragravity periods (> 30 s) was observed to be less than dissipation at shorter periods (< 30 s), consistent with the predictions of a simple model. Cross-wavelet analysis revealed that infragravity-frequency fluctuations in the bed level were occasionally coherent with velocity, possibly indicating scour upstream of dense pneumatophore patches when infragravity waves reinforced tidal currents. Consequently, infragravity waves were a likely driver of sediment transport within the mangrove forest. Near-bed turbulent kinetic energy, estimated from the turbulent dissipation rate, was also correlated with bed level changes. Specifically, within the mangrove forest and over the unvegetated mudflat, high-energy events were associated with erosion or near-zero bed level change, whereas low-energy events were associated with accretion. In contrast, no single relationship between bed level changes and mean current velocity was applicable across both vegetated and unvegetated regions. These observations support the theory that sediment mobilization scales with turbulent energy, rather than mean velocity, a distinction that becomes important when vegetation controls the development of turbulence.     

Suspended sediment transport and deposition over a dune: Río Paraná, Argentina

Field data from the Rio Paraná, Argentina, are used to examine patterns of suspended sediment transport over a sand dune. Measurements of three‐dimensional velocity are made with an acoustic Doppler current profiler whilst suspended sediment concentration and particle size have been quantified using a laser in situ sediment scattering transmissometer. Suspended sediment concentration and streamwise and vertical sediment flux are highest close to the bed, with an upward vertical flux over the stoss side of the dune and downward flux over the lee side. Suspended sediment concentrations are higher over the crest compared with the trough and suspended sediment is coarsest near the bed. About 17% of the suspended‐load transported over the crest is deposited in the lee side before it reaches the trough. Most of this deposited sand is coarser sediment that originates close to the bed over the crest, a result consistent with simulations based on the model of Mohrig and Smith (Water Resources Research 1996; 32: 3207–3217) for the excursion lengths of sediment dispersed in the lee side of a dune. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Adaptive criterion curves describing incipient motion of sediment under wave and current conditions

Sediment incipient motion is a fundamental issue in sediment transport theory and engineering practice. Whilst Shields curve often is used to determine the threshold of sediment movement under unidirectional current conditions, it is unclear whether it can be directly applied for the wave or combined wave-current conditions. The study developed adaptive criterion curves describing incipient motion of sediment under wave and current conditions based on the flow pattern around the sediment particles. Firstly, the flow pattern law for fixed particles was recognized based on the friction law under various dynamic conditions (wave, current, and their combinations), and the flow pattern demarcations for incipient sediment motion were obtained with the threshold conditions for sediment movement under various dynamic conditions combined. Secondly, the exact shape of the Shields curve in each flow regime was derived under the current condition. By combining the flow pattern demarcations for incipient sediment motion under the wave condition, the criterion curve under the wave condition was derived. By combining the flow pattern demarcations for incipient sediment motion under the combined current-wave condition, the criterion curve for sediment incipient motion under the combined current-wave condition was derived. The results indicated that the flow pattern around incipient particles includes laminar, laminar-rough turbulent transition, and rough turbulent regimes. The criterion curves for sediment incipient motion under various dynamic conditions stayed the same in the laminar and rough turbulent regimes, but different in the transition regime. Depending on the relative strengths of the currents and waves, the shape of the criterion curve under the combined current-wave condition transitions adaptively between the criterion curve under the current condition and the criterion curve under the wave conditions.     

Particle velocity and concentration profiles in bedload experiments on a steep slope

Depth profiles of particle streamwise velocity, concentration and bedload sediment transport rate were measured in a turbulent and supercritical water flow. One‐size 6 mm diameter spherical glass beads were transported at equilibrium in a two‐dimensional 10% steep channel with a mobile bed. Flows were filmed from the side by a high‐speed camera. Particle tracking algorithms made it possible to determine the position, velocity and trajectory of a very large number of particles. Approximately half of the sediment transport rate was composed by rolling grains, and the other half by saltation. This revealed a complex structure, with several concentration and flux peaks due to rolling, and one peak due to saltation. With an increase of the sediment transport rate, the depth structure remained the same at the water/granular interface, with peak value increases but with no shift in elevations. The saltation region expanded towards higher elevations with an increase of the particle velocity commensurate to the water velocity. The proportion of the sediment transport rate in saltation did not vary significantly. The particle streamwise velocity profiles exhibited three segments: an exponential decay in the bed, a linear increase where rolling and saltation co‐existed, and above this, a logarithmic‐like shape due to saltating particles. These results are comparable to profiles measured and modelled in dry granular free surface flows and in more intense bedload such as sheet flows. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

基于多波束地形测量的上荆江典型河段沙波形态特征分析

沙波形态影响水流结构、泥沙输移及动床阻力。本研究采用多波束测深系统首次精细测量了上荆江典型河段的床面地形,采用改进后的沙波形态量化算法统计了各类沙波形态参数,分析了不同水流强度下沙波形态的变化特征。计算结果表明:(1)测量河段小型与大型沙波的平均波高分别为0.16～0.81和0.96～2.31 m,波长分别为13～27和16～41m;沙波尺度相较于水深较小,小型与大型沙波的波高分别不超过水深的0.045和0.150倍;(2)沙波背流面坡度基本不超过14°,小于泥沙水下休止角,其与陡度之间的关系可以用线性方程描述;(3)中洪水流量对沙波形态尺度的塑造作用强于枯水流量,且对浅水区大型沙波形态尺度的塑造作用强于深水区。本研究量化了天然河流的沙波形态,较好地反映了沙波形态特征,能为大型冲积河流沙波形态的量化及特征参数的统计分析提供参考。     

Sand wave formation by stationary waves

In this paper we develop a new hypothesis which relates the formation of sand waves in open flow to the effect of stationary (lee) waves on flow with smooth nonhomogeneous downstream depth or behind an obstacle. The lee wave moves upstream with the phase velocity equal to the absolute value of the flow velocity, hence the wave crest does not move. Results of our experiments show that sand waves on the flow bed appear only below the lee waves and characteristics of sand waves are determined by the wave properties. We investigated the nonlinear stationary waves for subcritical and supercritical Froude numbers. These results allow us to predict sand waves characteristics for a particular flow.     

Bedform development and its effect on bed stabilization and sediment transport based on a flume experiment with non-uniform sediment

Non-uniform sediment deposited in a confined, steep mountain channel can alter the bed surface composition. This study evaluates the contribution of geometric and resistance parameters to bed sta-bilization and the reduction in sediment transport. Flume experiments were done under various hydraulic conditions with non-uniform bed material and no sediment supply from upstream. Results indicate that flume channels respond in a sequence of coarsening and with the formation of bedform-roughness features such as rapids, cascades, and steps. A bedform development coefficient is introduced and is shown to increase (i.e. vertical sinuosity develops) in response to increasing shear stress during the organization process. The bedform development coefficient also is positively correlated with the critical Shields number and Manning's roughness coefficient, suggesting the evolution of flow resistance with increasing bedform development. The sediment transport rate decreases with increasing bed shear stress and bedform development, further illustrating the effect of bed stabilization. An empirical sedi-ment transport model for an equilibrium condition is proposed that uses the bedform development coefficient, relative particle submergence (i.e. the ratio of mean water depth and maximum sediment diameter), modified bed slope, and discharge. The model suggests bedform development can play a primary role in reducing sediment transport (increasing bed stabilization). The model is an extension of Lane's (1955) relation specifically adapted for mountain streams. These results explain the significance of bedform development in heightening flow resistance, stabilizing the bed, and reducing sediment transport in coarse, steep channels.     

Suspended sediment fluxes at an intertidal flat: The shifting influence of wave,wind, tidal,and freshwater forcing

Using in situ, continuous, high frequency (8–16 Hz) measurements of velocity, suspended sediment concentration (SSC), and salinity, we investigate the factors affecting near-bed sediment flux during and after a meteorological event (cold front) on an intertidal flat in central San Francisco Bay. Hydrodynamic forcing occurs over many frequency bands including wind wave, ocean swell, seiching (500–1000 s), tidal, and infra-tidal frequencies, and varies greatly over the time scale of hours and days. Sediment fluxes occur primarily due to variations in flow and SSC at three different scales: residual (tidally averaged), tidal, and seiching. During the meteorological event, sediment fluxes are dominated by increases in tidally averaged SSC and flow. Runoff and wind-induced circulation contribute to an order of magnitude increase in tidally averaged offshore flow, while waves and seiching motions from wind forcing cause an order of magnitude increase in tidally averaged SSC. Sediment fluxes during calm periods are dominated by asymmetries in SSC over a tidal cycle. Freshwater forcing produces sharp salinity fronts which trap sediment and sweep by the sensors over short (∼30 min) time scales, and occur primarily during the flood. The resulting flood dominance in SSC is magnified or reversed by variations in wind forcing between the flood and ebb. Long-term records show that more than half of wind events (sustained speeds of greater than 5 m/s) occur for 3 h or less, suggesting that asymmetric wind forcing over a tidal cycle commonly occurs. Seiching associated with wind and its variation produces onshore sediment transport. Overall, the changing hydrodynamic and meteorological forcing influence sediment flux at both short (minutes) and long (days) time scales.     

Turbulent flow structures in alluvial channels with curved cross‐sections under conditions of downward seepage

Experimental investigations have been done to analyze turbulent structures in curved sand bed channels with and without seepage. Measures of turbulent statistics such as time‐averaged near‐bed velocities, Reynolds stresses, thickness of roughness sublayer and shear velocities were found to increase with application of downward seepage. Turbulent kinetic energy and Reynolds normal stresses are increased in the streamwise direction under the action of downward seepage, causing bed particles to move rapidly. Analysis of bursting events shows that the relative contributions of all events (ejections, sweeps and interactions) increase throughout the boundary layer, and the thickness of the zone of dominance of sweep events, which are responsible for the bed material movement, increases in the case of downward seepage. The increased sediment transport rate due to downward seepage deforms the cross‐sectional geometry of the channel made of erodible boundaries, which is caused by an increase in flow turbulence and an associated decrease in turbulent kinetic energy dissipation and turbulent diffusion.     

High rates of sediment transport by flashfloods in the Southern Judean Desert,Israel

A system has been installed to automatically monitor rainfall, streamflow, bedload discharge and suspended sediment concentration in the arid to hyper‐arid setting of Nahal Rahaf, Southern Judean Desert in Israel. The Rahaf gauging station is located in a relatively steep, wide channel with an unsteady bed driven by flash floods. It is an attempt to deploy modern automatic equipment for continuous sediment transport monitoring in harsh, arid fluvial environments. Unit bedload discharges are the highest recorded hitherto, suggesting they may represent an upper end member in the worldwide climate–bedload discharge relationship. Suspended sediment concentration is much higher than is typical of perennial fluvial humid environments. There is high correlation between suspended sediment concentration and water discharge on an event scale, with diverse intra‐event relations. The sediment yield of individual events is large, but the small number of floods limits the mean annual sediment yield to low values in this arid environment. This also has environmental implications, as large‐scale quarrying requires a long period of self‐restoration in such an arid fluvial setting. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.