Boussinesq 方程组的一个精确解

浅水波的Boussinesq方程组是弱频散的、非线性的,它与Kdv方程有一定联系,但并不等价。本文给出这个方程组的一个孤立波精确解。它含有两个方向传播的孤立波,其一阶近似包括了Kdv方程的精确解,而零阶近似则为波峰处导数不连续的奇异解。     

旋转地球上不可压缩流体惯性重力波的频率方程

用微扰动方法对旋转地球上不可压缩流体的控制方程组进行线性化,得到了扰动解和流体界面上惯性重力波的频率方程。表面惯性重力波和惯性重力内波的相速公式都是这个更普遍的频率方程的特殊情况。     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

旋转地球上不可压缩流体惯性重力波的频率方程

用微扰动方法对旋转地球上不可压缩流体的控制方程组进行线性化，得到了扰动解和流体界面上惯性重力波的频率方程。表面惯性重力波和惯性重力内波的相速公式都是这个更普遍的频率方程的特殊情况。     

五阶斯托克斯波的简化解法及改进解

由于Ｓｋｊｅｌｂｒｅｉａ导出的确定五阶斯托克斯波的二个方程不易求解，本文将其简化为确定ｄ／Ｌ的一个方程：ｆ（Ｈ，Ｔ，ｄ，ｄ／Ｌ）＝０。根据这一简化解法，发现Ｓｋｊｅｌｂｒｅｉａ方程组的解有３种情况；存在唯一的精确解精确解不止一个；不存在精确解（但存在满足Ｓｋｊｅｌｂｒｅｉａ方程组方面的最佳近似解）。当精确解不止一个时，可应用变分原理的方法差别出合理的解，应用变分原理的方法还可将Ｓｋｊｅｉｌｂｒｉａ     

常底坡有限宽陆架诱导阻尼波的一种模型

在文献[1]中,作者曾给出了f-平面上陆架诱导阻尼波的无因次方程组及相应的诸无因次参数,就一个底坡均匀的有限宽陆架上自由波模型给出了它的解,并仅对非弥散陆架波和半无限宽陆架上的零阶边缘波这两种特殊情形下的弥散关系作了分析。作为推     

深水斯托克斯波的一种近似解析解

本文给出斯托克斯波的一种新的近似解法,得到了与经典三阶以上斯托克斯波不同弥散关系和波面函数.在与经典斯托克斯波比较后,它被证明是一种更好的逼近解析解.它对精确确定斯托克斯波解,特别是确定高阶斯托克斯波的表达形式有重要应用价值.     

非线性三维波波要素的计算方法

本文根据作者以前提出的重力表面波非线性相互作用理论解,系统地探讨非线性三维波波要素四阶近似理论关系式的计算方法,其中包括二维行进波和立波,也适用于斜向波与直墙相互作用(全反射和部分反射)。给出二种主要计算情况的计算方法,其中包括利用拟牛顿法求解非线性波要素方程组,卡尔丹法、迭代法和级数近似解析式,分析比较表明,本文提供的计算方法较为精确、有效,可应用于计算波浪及其与建筑物相互作用。     

分层海洋的内孤立波

本文从流体力学基本方程组出发,在非地转条件下导得了分层海洋的内孤立波方程—Kbv和mKdv方程,证实了在非地转条件下,一类海洋非线性波动是可以严格满足内孤立波方程的。在地转条件下采用f平面近似导出了KdV方程的演化形式一有源KdV方程,地转的影响含于源项中。由初步的分析得出,f对KdV方程的影响是微弱的。由已得的KdV和mKdV方程的解可知,内孤立波与线性波有着本质差别。     

运动物体生成内波的一类非线性谱方程组

本文给出了由运动物体所生成内波的基本方程组和对应的谱方程组。该方程组的线性部分是一具有体积源 (其下简称为体源 )的 Sturm- Liouville本征值问题 ,而它的非线性部分是由体源与线性波场相互作用的谱表示。在这类强迫方程的源项中包含了 10类内波谱 ,这些谱最终均可利用内波的振幅谱表示。本文给出了线性波场波要素的谱表示和运动物体生成内波的非线性谱方程可解性的讨论。为了检验所得到的谱方程组 ,文中又进行了该谱方程组线性部分的数值计算。     

Fusion and fission solitons for the (2+1)-dimensional generalized Breor—Kaup system

With a projective equation and a linear variable separation method, this paper derives new families of variable separation solutions (including solitory wave solutions, periodic wave solutions, and rational function solutions) with arbitrary functions for (2+1)-dimensional generalized Breor--Kaup (GBK) system. Based on the derived solitary wave excitation, it obtains fusion and fission solitons.     

Wave reflection and transmission by porous breakwaters: A new analytical solution

This study gives a new analytical solution for wave reflection and transmission by a surface-piercing porous breakwater. Velocity potential decompositions in the breakwater are used to obtain the solution. Different from traditional solutions, the new solution needs no complex dispersion relations (complex wave numbers) for wave motion through porous media. Thus, difficult procedures in traditional solutions for solving complex dispersion relations and handling non-self-adjoint eigenvalue problem are avoided. The calculated results of the new solution are in very good agreement with those of traditional solutions and multi-domain boundary element method solutions.     

Explicit Solution to the Wave Dispersion Equation with Higher Accuracy

Based on the previous study results, two higher accuracy explicit solutions to the dispersion equation for wave length are presented in this paper. These two solutions have an accuracy of 0.1% over all wave lengths, which is sufficiently complete for practical application. At the same time, several previous explicit solutions also have been reviewed and compared herein. In comparison with accuracy, the results show that the present two solutions are as good as Wu and Thornton's solution (which has a good accuracy over all wave lengths, but its calculation formula is so complex that it is hard to be used with a hand calculator), and are better than the other solutions, they may be rather useful in practical calculation with a hand calculator or computer.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers

The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.     

Influence of the earth rotation on the interfacial wave solutions and wave-induced tangential stress in a two-layer fluid system

Interfacial waves and wave-induced tangential stress are studied for geostrophic small amplitude waves of two-layer .uid with a top free surface and a .at bottom. The solutions were deduced from the general form of linear .uid dynamic equations of two-layer .uid under the f -plane approximation, and wave-induced tangential stress were estimated based on the solutions obtained. As expected, the solutions derived from the present work include as special cases those obtained by Sun et al. (2004. Science in China, Ser. D, 47(12): 1147–1154) for geostrophic small amplitude surface wave solutions and wave-induced tangential stress if the density of the upper layer is much smaller than that of the lower layer. The results show that the interface and the surface will oscillate synchronously, and the in.uence of the earth’s rotation both on the surface wave solutions and the interfacial wave solutions should be considered.     

Influence of the earth rotation on the interfacial wave solutions and wave-induced tangential stress in a twolayer fluid system

Interfacial waves and wave-induced tangential stress are studied for geostrophic small amplitude waves of two-layer fluid with a top free surface and a flat bottom. The solutions were deduced from the general form of linear fluid dynamic equations of two-layer fluid under the f-plane approximation, and wave-induced tangential stress were estimated based on the solutions obtained. As expected, the solutions derived from the present work include as special cases those obtained by Sun et al. (2004. Science in China, Ser. D, 47(12):1147-1154) for geostrophic small amplitude surface wave solutions and wave-induced tangential stress if the density of the upper layer is much smaller than that of the lower layer. The results show that the interface and the surface will oscillate synchronously, and the influence of the earth''s rotation both on the surface wave solutions and the interfacial wave solutions should be considered.     

A note on the effects of a thin visco-elastic mud layer on small amplitude water-wave propagation

In this note we investigated the effects of a thin visco-elastic mud layer on wave propagation. Within the framework of linear water-wave theory, analytical solutions are obtained for damping rate, dispersion relation between wave frequency and wave number, and velocity components in the water column and mud layer. The wave attenuation rate reaches a maximum value when the mud layer thickness is about the same as the mud boundary layer thickness. Heavier mud has a weaker effect on the wave damping. However, the wave attenuation rate does not always decrease as the elastic shear modulus increases. In the range of small values for elastic shear modulus, the wave attenuation can be amplified quite significantly. The current solutions are compared with experimental data with different wave conditions and mud properties. In general, good agreements are observed.     

Wave loads on large vertical cylinders: A design method

The finite element method based on linear diffraction theory proposed by Zienkiewicz and Bettess (1977) has been used to compute wave loads and moments about the bed of surface piercing cylinders of circular, square, rectangular and elliptical sections for different angles of wave incidence. On the basis of the results obtained, a design method is presented in the form of simple design charts for estimating wave forces and moments on large cylinders of arbitrary sections. The numerical solutions obtained have been checked for their validity by comparing with other theoretical solutions and experimental data. Further the application of the design method to a case study shows good correlation with experimental and other theoretical solutions.     

层化海洋中二阶多色波对可渗透结构的绕射问题

可渗透结构具有使波浪作用减弱的效应,而海水的层化及水波的非线性使结构的波绕射产生多层复杂机制。将可渗透结构应用于复杂海况条件中,海水的层化性、波浪的非线性及结构的透空性构成了波绕射的一个十分复杂的数学问题。该问题存在理论研究的必要性,而文章则着重探讨其数学分析的可能性。通过引入二层海的层化海模式及Stokes二阶波的非线性波模式,给出了二阶多色波对透空结构的波绕射的定解问题提法,提出了复合形式的二阶多色波辐射条件式及可渗透结构的二阶物面条件式,应用特征函数解法与积分法推导了多色波对结构绕射的一阶势解与二阶作用的耦合积分解式,并讨论了解式所涉及无穷积分的算法。     

Forces and moment on a horizontal plate due to wave scattering

Wave reflection and transmission from a fixed horizontal plate have been widely studied but theoretical solutions are only available for certain limiting conditions. A general solution for this wave scattering problem is presented using the finite-element method, covering the whole range of relative depth ratio from shallow to deep water limits and submergence depth ratio from the water surface to the bed. Existing long-wave solutions for the surface plate and the submerged plate have been extended to obtain the hydrodynamic forces and overturning moment exerted on the plate. Results from the finite-element program compare well with these solutions. Variations of the reflection coefficient, wave forces and moment, with the plate width to wave length ratio, relative depth ratio and submergence depth ratio are discussed.