海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面特征研究

通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。     

河北省京唐港附近沙坝—潟湖海岸地貌演化特征

河北省的沙坝—潟湖海岸,在自然因素和人类活动的双重影响下逐渐消亡,砂质岸线不断蚀退。基于京唐港附近15条海滩剖面2016—2017年夏、冬两季共4次监测结果,开展了剖面地形和表层沉积物粒度的时空变化研究。监测结果显示,海岸整体呈现蚀退,其中永乐岛和明月岛呈侵蚀淤积交替出现;吉祥岛受人为因素影响小,侵蚀严重,残留沙坝2年累计侵蚀10~30 m,每年夏季较冬季侵蚀显著。2016年度剖面冬季较夏季沉积物变粗,由于部分剖面沙滩侵蚀严重,淤泥质基底出露,沉积物变细。     

沙坝—泻湖海岸动力地貌学研究进展

国内外对沙坝－泻湖海岸的研究主要采取动力地貌学的方法，本文评述了近一个半世纪以来在这一领域所取得的重要成果。波浪、潮汐、径流等特殊的动力场决定了泥沙输运的方式和路径，从而形成了与其相应的沙坝、泻湖、潮汐通道三大地貌体系。     

华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究

为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故,自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查,在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果,本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性,尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化,冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中,裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区,但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时,部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明,当入射角达到10°～30°时,沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时,较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应,导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测,以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。     

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

废弃黄河三角洲海岸剖面演化模型

通过对海岸剖面的研究 ,我们已知道 ,在地貌动态方面 ,泥质海岸或粘质海岸基本上不同于砂质海岸。黄河三角洲由粉砂及粘土组成。我们设计了动力模型以模拟和预测黄河三角洲的近滨泥质剖面变化。1　波浪导致的海底剪切力在泥质海岸上 ,控制近滨水动力过程的一个重要机制是碎浪带周期性的高频率的交错移动。最大的破碎波剪切速率表明了一个几乎线性衰减的破浪带。高潮时 ,当入射波高增长时 ,破浪带宽度及地层剪切力的强度也增加。落潮期间 ,海平面下降时 ,破浪带向海迁移。结果 ,潮间带被逐渐暴露在空气中。对于一个给定的入射波高来说 ,在海…     

海岸沿岸流垂向分布实验研究

进行海岸沿岸流模型实验,利用ADV(acoustic doppler velocimeter)测量了沿岸流流速沿垂直岸线方向多个断面的垂向分布。采用Faria等的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将沿岸流沿水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,流速分布为修正的对数分布。最后对沿岸流垂向分布特征做了分析,并与Visser和Hamilton的实验结果做了对比。     

近岸人工沙坝的剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制研究综述

近岸人工沙坝养滩是一种重要的海滩养护手段,开展人工沙坝地形演变研究是海岸带保护修复工程的重要需求。本文围绕不同动力条件下的人工沙坝横向迁移规律、形态演变模式、地貌耦合规律和水沙运动机制等理论层面,以及人工沙坝平衡剖面描述和演变过程数值模拟等方法层面,总结了近年来关于人工沙坝剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制的国内外研究进展,并提出了关键过程机理深化、模拟预测方法改进和实际养滩工程应用等方面的今后研究重点。     

粤西海岸全新世中期以来海平面升降与海岸沙坝潟湖发育过程

沙坝湖海岸是一种重要的海岸类型。文章论述了粤西海岸全新世中期以来在海平面升降影响下沙坝湖地貌的发育过程,得出如下结论：距今7000a至5000a．海平面曾上升至＋4m,由于大陆架泥沙的向陆堆积,形成了揭湖拦湾沙坝的后缘高突部分：以后海平面逐步下降至现今位置,它所形成的海退沙楔发育成低矮的向海沙坝和海滩;距今2000a,海平面趋于相对稳定;现今海平面微升,出现了海岸侵蚀。文章还对该地在海平面升降影响下的海岸泥沙运移机制以及海岸高海面堆积和现今海岸侵蚀现象作了解析。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

Longshore Currents over Barred Beach with Mild Slope

The laboratory experiment and numerical simulations of wave-driven longshore currents by random waves on barred beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 were conducted to investigate the bimodal feature of mean longshore currents, with emphasis on the location and ratio of two peaks of longshore currents. The location and ratio of two peaks are controlled by the sand bar. The influences of wave heights and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. Numerical simulations were also performed to compute the measured velocity profile, with the emphasis on the effect of lateral mixing, bottom friction and surface rollers on numerical results.     

Longshore currents of regular waves on different beaches

The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.     

基于波形不对称性的波浪破碎指标

为了探寻波浪破碎与波形不对称性的关系,通过对1/200缓坡上波浪破碎实验研究结果的进一步分析,运用最小二乘法,拟合了波形不对称性参数与相对水深的关系,以及用波形不对称性参数表示的波浪破碎指标表达式。所得规则波的结果与Kjeldsen的深水波结果相同,而不规则波的结果比规则波的小。研究还表明,这一破碎指标与相对水深有关系,随着水深变浅,指标值增大。     

An experimental study of the spatial structures of the instabilities of longshore currents on plane beaches

A laboratory experiment on alongshore currents is conducted for two plane beaches with slopes 1:40 and 1:100 to investigate the instability of alongshore currents.The dye release experiment is also performed synchronously in surf zone.Complicated and strongly unstable motions of alongshore currents are observed in the experiment.To examine the spatial and temporal variations of the shear instabilities of longshore clearly,dye batches are released in surf zone.The deformation of the dye patch is observed efficiently and effectively with charge coupled device(CCD) system.Some essential characteristics of the shear instability are validated from the results of image analyses of the temporal variation of the dye patch.The influences of alongshore currents,Stokes drift,large-scale vorticity and the shear instabilities on the transport of dye are analyzed using the collected images.The spatial structure of the instabilities of longshore currents is studied by analyzing collected images of the dye patch.And the phase velocity of the meandering movements is obtained through measuring the movement distances of the oscillations of dye patch in alongshore direction with time.The results suggest that the propagation speed of the shear instability is approximately 50%-75% of maximum of mean alongshore currents for irregular and regular waves.The calculated propagation speed using a linear instability analysis theory is compared with the experimental results.The comparison shows agreements between them.     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。     

中国砂质海滩区域差异分布的构造成因及其堆积地貌研究

砂质海滩的形成与发育是联系地壳深部过程和地表过程的综合体现．本文根据中国沿岸砂质海滩分布状况调查结果,通过分析其分布规律与中国东部沿海中新生代构造地质分区不同海洋沉积环境的内在联系,探讨了砂质海滩区域性差异分布和堆积地貌的成因特点,从而为我国海岸资源利用的宏观配置和管理提供科学依据．研究得出：（1）中国沿岸砂质海滩的形成与发育受中新生代地质构造带控制,尤其受新构造期地壳断块升降活动差异性的影响,呈现出区域性富集的格局．（2）中国砂质海滩基本形成在构造隆起带岬湾沿岸,并且富集在其中新构造期处于上升区的海岸,这主要在于其区域性海岸环境具有形成砂质沉积的物质基础．（3）构造隆起带滨海泥沙的输沙途径及其再分配形式复杂多样,从而产生了各种不同的砂质海滩堆积地貌类型．（4）根据海岸地貌和沉积成因模式,将中国沿岸砂质海滩划分为岬湾海岸叠置沙体沉积形式、滨外坝沙体连续沉积形式和浪控三角洲平原岸改造沉积形式等3种基本模型．（5）沿海晚第四世纪古夷平地貌面与现代海平面相对高程分布的分析表明,山丘岬湾岸型砂质海滩主要形成在新构造运动下沉区段或构造相对稳定区段,而台地岬湾岸型和泻湖一沙坝岸型形成在上升区段,浪控三角洲平原岸型则分布在断块盆地．     

The effects of storms and storm-generated currents on sand beaches in Southern Maine, USA

Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms.

Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer.

A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s⁻¹ and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。