海浪对直立堤作用力的研究

海浪对水工建筑物作用的研究是具有十分重要意义的.目前直立堤在海岸工程中仍然是一种广为采用的结构型式.众所周知,很早以来,人们就波浪对直立堤的作用力问题进行了广泛的研究,获得了不少成功的结果.但至今在工程设计中,关于海浪对直立堤作用力的计算方法仍是把复杂的海浪抽象成为规则波的形式,根据规则波的波高、周期来计算,并且大都借室内规则波的模型试验进行验证与订正.在这种计算过程中,目前多数在求得海浪参数时,是考虑了海浪的不规则性的,但在波压力计算本身,则又从规则波理论出发.因此,为建立工程上实用的海浪对直立堤作用力的计算方法,国内外都从各种途径进行着研究.     

中咀湾避风港工程波浪分析及其应用

中咀湾是一个天然的避风良港,一般情况下外海波浪影响很小,主要受局部风场产生的局部风浪影响。本文采用曹宏生在Massel的扩展缓坡方程基础上推导出来的考虑陡变地形和能量耗散效应的缓坡方程为控制方程,结合固边界的反射边界条件,构成波浪传播变形的联合折射、绕射和反射的数学模型。文中将此方法运用在中国台州市大陈岛中咀湾避风港中,用波浪数学模型计算极端高水位和设计高水位时3种波况分别在3组重现期时工程海域的波浪要素,提供防波堤的堤前波高,并分析比较此处实心式和透空式防波堤的防浪性能。     

The effects of reflection coefficient of the harbour sidewall on the performance of floating breakwaters

This paper studies the interaction of linear water waves with a moored floating breakwater with a leeward boundary composed from a vertical wall. This describes a real modelling for the case of ports in contrary to the problems of unbounded domains. It involves the application of a partial reflection boundary condition for this sidewall. In fact, the partial reflection problem in practical application is of great importance in the design of a harbour or breakwater and mainly for short waves. The reflection coefficient of the harbour boundary (sidewall) plays an important role in modifying the performance of the floating breakwater. Moreover, it reduces the resonant peaks appearing inside the ports due to the energy accumulation in an enclosed domain. The effects of the variation of structural parameters of the breakwater on the transmitted wave height are discussed in details for various values of partial reflection.     

A Comparative Study of the Statistical Distributions of Wave Heights

Distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied.Recordsof surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed.Wave heights can be approximated by normal,two-parameter Weibull,and/or Rayleigh distribution.However,while the first two models may have almost equal probabilities to fit measured data quite satis-factorily,the Rayleigh distribution does not appear to be a good model for the majority of the cases stu-died.Surface elevations from field data are well described by the Gaussian model,but as with increasingwind speeds,water surface in a wind-wave flume deviates from normality,and the Edgeworth's form ofthe type A Gram-Charlier series is then applied.     

直立堤前波浪和波压力统计特征

基于1987年和1988年夏季在古镇口港直立堤前的实测资料,对波浪和波压力连续记录进行了统计分析和谱估计,研究了在堤前海浪不发生破碎条件下,堤前波浪和堤面不同高程上压力波的波面高度概率分布、堤前波浪波高和周期与波压力幅度和周期的概率分布特征、入射波行近提前过程中的谱变化及堤面不同高程上压力谱的变化特征。主要结果总结在本文最后一节。     

Interaction Between Waves and A Comb-Type Breakwater

The characteristics of wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation of comb-type caisson breakwaters are studied through laboratory physical model tests. Regular and irregular waves, with a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth, are considered. Different dimensions of each portion of the comb-type caisson breakwater are tested. Empirical formulae for calculating the reduction coefficient k, which is the ratio of horizontal wave force on unit length of the comb-type breakwater to that on unit length of the vertical wall breakwater, and for calculating the reflection coefficient of waves k, are obtained from the measurements. The comb-type caisson breakwater has been found to be very efficient in dissipating incident wave energy and in reducing wave reflection, and has already been used for the construction of an island breakwater in the Dayao Bay of Dalian Port, Liaoning Province, China. Compared with the cost of a common caisson breakwater, about 24. 5% of the investm     

On reflection and diffraction due to a detached breakwater

Wave reflection and diffraction due to the presence of a detached breakwater are studied with the aid of directional wave fields. At first, experiments were carried out for the case where a breakwater is the sole factor affecting the wave field. It is shown that, estimated directional spectra in front of a detached breakwater can be separated into two parts in the spatial domain. Denoting these as the incident and reflected part of the total energy, an estimate of the reflection coefficient can be obtained. An empirical equation is proposed. This equation relates the reflection coefficients with the distances of the measuring stations away from the breakwater, as well as directionality of the wave field. This equation was then applied to the experiments where the fishing harbour Ba-Do-Zhi (BDZ) was used as model. It is shown that favorable results are obtained. On the other hand, diffraction due to the detached breakwater was also studied in a similar way. It is shown that predictions based on the empirical equation are in quantitative agreements with measurements. It is proposed that these empirical equations can be used in engineering applications.     

Experimental and Numerical Study on the Hydrodynamic Characteristics of Solitary Waves Passing Over A Submerged Breakwater

In this study, solitary waves passing over a submerged breakwater are investigated both experimentally and numerically. A total of 9 experimental conditions are carried out, including different incident wave heights and water depths. Numerical simulations are performed using a high-order finite-difference model solving Navier–Stokes (N–S) equations. The predicted water wave elevation, velocity and pressure show good agreement with experimental data, verifying the accuracy and capacity of the numerical model. Furthermore, parametric studies are conducted by numerical modelling to examine the effects of the geometrical features of submerged dike on hydrodynamic characteristics around the breakwater.     

Deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on a sloping bed

This study investigates the wave deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on the slope. Experiments were conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. Measurements of the free surface elevations around an impermeable submerged breakwater were carried out using 19 capacitance-type wave gages. In addition, a numerical model is proposed in three-dimensional random wave field. It is shown that the numerical results reproduce the general trend of the experimental results well. Investigations are made to study the effect of the spreading parameter S_max and bottom topography (bottom slope and submerged breakwater) on the wave deformation. It is pointed out that concentration of wave energy with larger values of the spreading parameter S_max is located within narrow limits in onshore side of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the supplementary discussion is made by means of numerical results.     

Asymmetrical breakwater gap wave diffraction using finite and infinite elements

An experimental technique and configuration has been developed by the author to simulate and measure (using short range photogrammetric techniques) the wave heights of waves diffracting into a model basin of infinite extent. The finite and infinite element program “WAVE” developed in the Department of Civil Engineering, University College of Swansea, Wales, has been modified to run on the UNIVAC 1100 at the University of Cape Town. The program is used to model the experimental configuration being tested mathematically. Two configurations, namely a symmetrical and an asymmetrical breakwater gap configuration, are analysed both experimentally and numerically. It is concluded that there is a good correlation between the finite element and experimental results and that the “WAVE” program is a very useful tool for the prediction of wave heights in large harbour basins.     

Reflection of irregular waves from perforated-wall caisson breakwaters

An analytical model has been developed that predicts the reflection of irregular waves normally incident upon a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. To examine the predictability of the developed model, laboratory experiments have been conducted for the reflection of irregular waves of various significant wave heights and periods impinging upon breakwaters having various wave chamber widths. For frequency-averaged reflection coefficients, though the overall agreement is fairly good between measurement and calculation, the model somewhat over-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger values, and under-predicts at smaller values. The model also underestimates the energy loss coefficients as wave reflection becomes larger. These differences occur because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater, which increase the energy loss at the perforated wall. The frequency-averaged reflection coefficient shows a minimum when the wave chamber width is approximately 0.2 times the significant wavelength, and it decreases with increasing wave steepness. Finally, it is shown that the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater depends on the wave frequency, so that the reflected wave spectrum shows a frequency dependent oscillatory behavior.     

Diffraction of random wind-generated waves by detached breakwater or breakwater gap

The diffraction coefficient in some areas of the geometric shadow behind a detached breakwater or a breakwater gap proves to be markedly greater for random wind-generated waves than for periodic waves. The cause becomes clear in the light of the general theory of three-dimensional wave groups, which shows how some exceptionally large wave heights can occur in the geometric shadow.     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

Modelling of waves and currents around submerged breakwaters

Recent experimental data collected during the DELOS project are used to validate two approaches for simulating waves and currents in the vicinity of submerged breakwaters.The first approach is a phase-averaged method in which a wave model is used to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses, while a flow model (2-dimensional depth averaged or quasi-3D) is used to calculate the resulting wave driven currents. The second approach is a phase resolving method in which a high order 2DH-Boussinesq-type model is used to calculate the waves and flow.The models predict wave heights that are comparable to measurements if the wave breaking sub-model is properly tuned for dissipation over the submerged breakwater. It is shown that the simulated flow pattern using both approaches is qualitatively similar to that observed in the experiments. Furthermore, the phase-resolving model shows good agreement between measured and simulated instantaneous surface elevations in wave flume tests.     

涌浪作用下港内波况试验研究

基于秘鲁钱凯港的防波堤三维整体模型试验结果,研究了涌浪绕射、透射联合作用对港内波况的影响.分析了不同波向、不同谱峰周期的入射波条件下港内不同功能区的波况分布规律,并对比分析了具有不同周期的入射波对港内不同区域波高的影响,兼顾分析了波向的影响.结果表明,在涌浪作用下,受透射、绕射影响,不同入射波条件下港内比波高分布规律相...     

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的理论与试验研究

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤具有低反射、结构受力小、适宜较大水深和工程造价低等优点。为明确双消浪室局部开孔沉箱水动力特性的主要影响因素,采用理论分析和物理模型试验相结合的方法,对规则波和不规则波作用下双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行研究。基于势流理论,建立规则波和不规则波对局部开孔沉箱防波堤作用的三维解析解,采用二次压力损失边界条件考虑沉箱开孔墙对波浪运动的影响,利用周期性边界条件考虑防波堤结构沿长度方向的周期性变化。开展相应规则波和不规则波物理模型试验,验证理论模型的合理性。通过算例分析,研究不同波浪要素和结构参数对防波堤反射特性的影响。研究表明:双消浪室局部开孔沉箱相对消浪室宽度取值为0.08~0.20,沉箱前墙开孔率大于后墙开孔率时,防波堤在较大波浪频率范围内消波效果显著;当前后墙的开孔率相等时,防波堤反射系数的最小值随着开孔率增大而减小。     

Hydrodynamic efficiency of partially immersed caissons supported on piles

The efficiency of the breakwater, which consists of caissons supported on two or three rows of piles, was studied using physical models. The efficiency of the breakwater is presented as a function of the transmission, reflection and the wave energy dissipation coefficients. Regular waves with wide ranges of wave heights and periods and constant water depth were used. Different characteristics of the caisson structure and the supporting pile system were also tested. It was found that, the transmission coefficient (k_t) decreases with increasing the relative breakwater draft D/L, increasing the relative breakwater width B/h, and decreasing the piles gap-diameter ratio G/d. It is possible to achieve k_t values less than 0.25 when D/L≥0.1. The reflection coefficient takes the opposite trend especially when D/L≤0.15. The proposed breakwater dissipates about 10-25% of the incident wave energy. Also, simple empirical equations are developed for estimating the wave transmission and reflection. In addition, the proposed breakwater model is efficient compared with other floating breakwaters.     

波浪作用下涵洞式直立堤水体交换特性研究

基于计算流体力学(CFD)数值模拟和物理模型试验结合的方式,开展涵洞式直立堤在波浪作用下的水体交换研究。CFD数值模拟采用VPM (volume-average/point-value method)-THINC (tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing)/QQ (quadratic surface representation and Gaussian quadrature)模型,并在此基础上提出一种能够标记涵洞内外水体变化的双液相流体体积模型(VOF)方法,定性及定量描述涵洞内外水体的交换特性;物理模型试验主要用来验证数值模型的准确性。研究表明,在波浪的作用下,涵洞内部会形成一股往复振荡的水流,对水体交换起到重要的作用。该振荡流主要受到涵洞高度、波浪周期以及波高的影响,涵洞深度对其影响不大。在波浪长时间的作用下,涵洞式直立堤能有效地增强港池内外水体交换。     

Hydrodynamic characteristics of semi-immersed breakwater with an attached porous plate

In the present study, wave interaction with a fixed, partially immersed breakwater of box type with a plate attached (impermeable-permeable) at the front part of the structure is investigated numerically and experimentally. The large scale laboratory experiments on the interaction of regular waves with the special breakwater were conducted in the wave flume of Laboratori d’Enginyeria Marνtima (LIM) at Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya (UPC) in Barcelona. Experimental results are compared with numerical results obtained with the use of the Cornell breaking Wave and Structures (COBRAS) wave model. The effects of an impermeable as well as a permeable plate attached to the bottom of the breakwater on its hydrodynamic characteristics (wave transmission, reflection, dissipation, velocity and turbulence kinetic energy) are investigated. Computed velocities and turbulence kinetic energy in the vicinity of the structure indicate the effects of the breakwater with the attached (impermeable/permeable) plate on the flow pattern and the turbulence structure. The attached impermeable plate at the front part of the breakwater enhances significantly the efficiency of the structure in attenuating the incident waves. The permeable plate reduces the efficiency of the structure since wave energy is transmitted through the porous body of the plate. Based on the hydrodynamic characteristics it is inferred that the breakwater with an impermeable plate attached to its bottom is more efficient. The comparison of horizontal and vertical forces acting on the breakwater for all cases examined reveals that plate porosity influences slightly vertical force and severely horizontal force acting on the structure, reducing maximum values in both cases.     

深水工况下弧面胸墙沉箱堤的反射形态分析

为推广应用新型弧面胸墙沉箱堤,结合模型试验和数值模拟对比分析了深水工况下弧面胸墙沉箱堤和削角胸墙沉箱堤的反射形态。波面和波压的数值结果与试验数据吻合良好,验证了数值方法的有效性。反射系数表明,入射波浪在与弧面胸墙沉箱堤相互作用过程中的能量损耗最小,其反射强于削角胸墙沉箱堤。波面和流速包络图显示,两种堤型均在堤前形成了部分立波系统,腹点和节点以四分之一波长的距离增量交替出现,胸墙和直立部分产生的反射波存在相位差,导致初始腹点的位置向海侧偏移。弧面胸墙沉箱堤前叠合波的相位差影响最小,腹点包络高度最大,节点包络高度最小,反射效应最明显。两种堤型前中下层水流的周期平均速度均较小且对称,表明底床泥沙不会产生趋势性输移,但迎浪基床上方的环流系统可能引起局部冲刷。相对而言,弧面胸墙沉箱堤前的环流强度最弱,更有利于冲刷防护。