Beach erosion and recovery during consecutive storms at a steep‐sloping,meso‐tidal beach

This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m³/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m³/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing

There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (H_s/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<H_s/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (H_s/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s^‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics

The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.     

A patch hierarchy approach to modeling surface and subsurface hydrology in complex flood‐plain environments

Geomorphology interacts with surface‐ and ground‐water hydrology across multiple spatial scales. Nonetheless, hydrologic and hydrogeologic models are most commonly implemented at a single spatial scale. Using an existing hydrogeologic computer model, we implemented a simple hierarchical approach to modeling surface‐ and ground‐water hydrology in a complex geomorphic setting. We parameterized the model to simulate ground‐ and surface‐water ?ow patterns through a hierarchical, three‐dimensional, quantitative representation of an anabranched montane alluvial ?ood plain (the Nyack Flood Plain, Middle Fork Flathead River, Montana, USA). Comparison of model results to ?eld data showed that the model provided reasonable representations of spatial patterns of aquifer recharge and discharge, temporal patterns of ?ood‐water storage on the ?ood plain, and rates of ground‐water movement from the main river channel into a large lateral spring channel on the ?ood plain, and water table elevation in the alluvial aquifer. These results suggest that a hierarchical approach to modeling ground‐ and surface‐water hydrology can reproduce realistic patterns of surface‐ and ground‐water ?ux on alluvial ?ood plains, and therefore should provide an excellent ‘quantitative laboratory’ for studying complex interactions between geomorphology and hydrology at and across multiple spatial scales. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Bathymetric control of surf zone retention on a rip-channelled beach

Simulations from a numerical model address the impact of nearshore morphology on surf zone retention on, open coast, rip-channelled beaches exposed to shore-normal waves. In the model, rip channels are regularly spaced alongshore with a given spacing λ. For a given reference case bathymetry (λ= 200 m), rip current circulations retain floating material at a hourly rate R of about 80 % which is in line with most existing field and laboratory studies in similar settings. The influence of a surf zone rip-channel morphology on surf zone retention is evaluated by a number of morphologic parameters. Results show that rip spacing is important. The ratio of the surf zone width X _s to rip spacing λ controls surf zone retention with R rapidly increasing with increasing X _s /λ up to a threshold of about 1 above which R levels off to become asymptotic to 100 %. The impact of the presence of a rip head bar is profound but nonlinear. The onset of wave breaking across the rip head bar drives a weak seaward located circulation providing major pathways for surface water exiting the surf zone compartment. Additional simulations suggest that alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry are important. Patterns in the wave field enforced by wave refraction and potentially wave breaking across offshore bathymetric anomalies can provide a conduit for transporting floating material out of the surf zone and into the inner shelf region. This has major implications for surf zone flushing by inner-bar rips on multiple-barred beaches and on beaches facing bathymetric anomalies on the inner shelf.     

Dynamics of intertidal drainage channels on a multi‐barred macrotidal beach

The intertidal drainage channels on a macrotidal bar–trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) beach were monitored during a 17‐day survey. Type 1 channels were persistent, dominantly longshore systems essentially limited to the wide intertidal zone between mean high and low water neap tidal levels. The cumulative length of this channel type fluctuated as a function of topographically controlled through‐flow or flow impedance in troughs, and showed no correlation with the semi‐lunar tidal cycle. Smaller, ephemeral type 2 channels appeared as dominantly cross‐shore systems incising bars on the narrower upper and lower beach zones during spring tides. They disappeared during neap tides through infill by waves and aeolian activity. The only significant phase of type 1 channel mobility occurred during a brief moderate‐energy storm at the start of the survey. The effect of this mobility on beach morphology was inextricably linked to that of waves and currents. Meander bend migration, forced by wave‐ and longshore‐current‐induced migration of a bar during the storm, resulted in important but highly localized morphological change that was only a minor part of an irregular saw‐tooth pattern of change that affected the entire beach profile, and that was largely controlled by wave processes and longshore currents. The flow velocities in channels on this beach are too weak to generate the formation and longshore migration of high‐energy bedforms. Channel mobility and impact on beach morphology are expected to increase under storm conditions. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Flow threads in surface run‐off: implications for the assessment of flow properties and friction coefficients in soil erosion and hydraulics investigations

Soil surface microtopography produces non‐uniform surface run‐off, in which narrow threads of relatively deep and fast ?ow move within broader, shallower, slower‐moving regions. This kind of ?ow is probably widespread, given that microtopography is itself common. Methods used to record the properties of surface run‐off include grid‐ or transect‐based depth observations, with a single mean ?ow speed derived by calculation from V = Q/WD, and the use of dye timing to estimate velocity, with an effective mean depth calculated from D = Q/WV. Because these methods allow only single, ?ow‐?eld mean values to be derived for V or D, neither is well suited to non‐uniform ?ows. The use of depth data to derive a ?ow‐?eld mean V furthermore implicitly applies area weighting to the depth data; likewise, the use of dye speeds for V inherently overestimates mean V because dye dominantly follows the faster ?ow threads. The associated errors in derived parameters such as friction coef?cients are not readily quanti?ed and appear not to have been addressed previously. New ?eld experiments made on untilled soil surfaces in arid western NSW, Australia, explore these circumstances and the implications for deriving meaningful measures of ?ow properties, including friction coef?cients. On surfaces deliberately chosen for their very subtle microtopography, average thread velocities are shown to be commonly 2·5 times greater than the ?ow‐?eld mean, and locally 6–7 times greater. On the other hand, non‐thread ?ow speeds lie below the ?ow‐?eld mean, on average reaching only 84 per cent of this value, and often considerably less. Flow‐?eld means conceal the existence of regions of the ?ow ?eld whose properties are statistically distinct. Results con?rm that a reliance on ?ow‐?eld average depths yields estimates of friction coef?cients that are biased toward the shallower, high‐roughness parts of the ?ow, while if dye speeds are relied upon the results are biased toward the deeper, smoother threads of ?ow. A new approach to the evaluation of friction coef?cients in non‐uniform ?ows is advanced, involving the determination of separate coef?cients for threads and non‐thread zones of the ?ow ?eld. In contrast, ?ow‐?eld friction coef?cients as they are customarily derived in run‐off plot experiments subsume these distinct coef?cients in proportions that are generally unknown. The value of such coef?cients is therefore questionable. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach

A field experiment was conducted on a high energy macro-tidal beach (Perranporth, UK) to examine rip current dynamics over a low-tide transverse bar/rip system in response to changing tide and wave conditions. Hydrodynamic data were collected using an array of in situ acoustic doppler current meters and pressure transducers, as well as 12 GPS-tracked Lagrangian surf zone drifters. Inter-tidal and sub-tidal morphology were measured through RTK-GPS and echo-sounder surveys. Data were collected for eight consecutive days (15 tides) over a spring-neap tidal cycle with tidal ranges of 4–6.5 m and offshore significant wave heights of 1–2 m and peak periods of 5–12 s.     

Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semi‐diurnal and lunar tidal cycles,North Lincolnshire,England

Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (H_s < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (H_s < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Barchan‐shaped ripple marks in a wave flume

Barchans, isolated crescent‐shaped bedforms, are believed to be formed under almost unidirectional wind or water ?ows and limited sand supply. The formation of barchan morphologies under the action of purely oscillatory wave motion has not yet been fully investigated. The present study attempted to form barchan topography in a wave ?ume and to compare this with barchans in the ?eld. Barchan morphologies of ripple size, called the barchan ripples, were generated from a ?at bed by the action of waves. The horn width, the distance between horn tips, of the barchan ripples increased linearly with an increase in the total length, the overall length projected on the centre line of the barchan, with a coef?cient common to barchan dunes in deserts. The ratio of horn length to horn width of the barchan ripples was smaller than that of barchan dunes, but similar to that of subaqueous barchans in the ?eld. The longer the wave period was, the larger the ratio of the body length to horn width became. Most subaqueous barchans formed under waves (in the laboratory) and unidirectional ?ows (in the ?eld) had blunter horns than subaerial barchans. The shape of the barchan ripples changed with wave period. The outer rim became rounder with increasing wave period. The relationship between the base area and the height of barchan morphologies seems to be linear, with a constant coef?cient for the scale from ripples to dunes. The barchan ripples showed a linear relationship between the height and the horn width, similar to that for barchan dunes. The migration speed of the barchan ripples was proportional to the cube of the ?ow velocity and was inversely proportional to height. The same relation with a different value of the coef?cient was obtained for barchan dunes. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Millennium‐scale recurrent uplift inferred from beach deposits bordering the eastern Nankai Trough,Omaezaki area,central Japan

A flight of Holocene marine terraces on the southwestern coast of Cape Omaezaki of central Japan provides evidence of recurrent millennium‐scale uplift events. We reconstructed the uplift history of these terraces by using facies analysis of drill core and geoslicer samples, environmental analysis of trace fossils, and ¹⁴C age determinations. Coastal uplift can be identified by the displacement of beach deposits such as foreshore deposits, which represent the intertidal swash zone of a wave‐dominated sandy coast. Three levels of former beach deposits facing the Nankai Trough were identified near the coast in the Omaezaki area. The highest of these, dated at about 3020–2880 BC, records a maximum of 2.2–2.7 m of emergence. The middle beach surface, of minimum age 370–190 BC, shows 1.6–2.8 m of emergence. The lowest beach surface, which is older than 1300–1370 AD, records 0.4–1.6 m of emergence. Our analysis of vertical crustal deformation data during the Holocene in this region suggests that rapid and strong uplift was restricted to the southwestern coast of the Omaezaki area and was probably caused by high‐angle thrusting on subsidiary faults branching from the underlying plate boundary megathrust.     

A casting procedure for reproducing coarse‐grained sedimentary surfaces

In the ?eld, the measurement of near‐bed hydraulics remains problematic. Greater precision is possible in the laboratory, but, in the case of gravels, it is dif?cult to create a water‐worked channel‐bed that is realistic enough to replicate faithfully the conditions found in nature. In this paper, a technique to reproduce coarse‐grained sedimentary fabrics of large areal extent is described. It involves moulding natural river‐bed surfaces from which facsimiles are cast. Remarkably realistic casts with dimensions of 1 m by 2 m have been produced and their quality assessed using spatial data derived using automated digital photogrammetry. The casts reproduce the prototype surfaces with errors at millimetre scale (0·5 per cent of the microrelief). The technique has facilitated the introduction of sedimentary surfaces that incorporate natural, complex structures of grains up to cobble size into experimental channels where detailed studies of near‐bed hydraulics can be carried out. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 2: impact on alongshore variability of inner‐bar rip channels

Double sandbar systems are common morphological features along sandy, wave‐dominated, micro‐ to meso‐tidal coastlines. In the companion paper, we demonstrated how various alongshore inner‐bar rip‐channel patterns can develop through morphological coupling to an alongshore‐variable outer bar. The simulated coupling patterns are, however, scarcely observed in the field. Instead, inner‐bar rip channels more often possess remarkably smaller and more variable alongshore length scales, suggesting that coupling mechanisms do not play a substantial role in the overall double‐sandbar dynamics. Here we use a numerical model to show that the relative importance of self‐organization and morphological coupling changes in favour of the latter with an increase in waterdepth variability along the outer‐bar crest. Furthermore, we find that the typical alongshore variability in inner‐bar rip‐channel scale is indicative of a mixture of self‐organization and morphological coupling rather than self‐organization alone. Morphological coupling may thus be more important to understanding and predicting the evolution of inner‐bar rip channels than previously envisaged. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 1: patterns and physical explanation

Crescentic sandbars and rip channels along wave‐dominated sandy beaches are relevant to understand localized beach and dune erosion during storms. In recent years, a paradigm shift from hydrodynamic template models to self‐organization mechanisms occurred to explain the formation of these rhythmic features. In double sandbar systems, both the inner‐ and outer‐bar rip channels and crescentic planshapes are now believed to be free instabilities of the nearshore system arising through self‐organization mechanisms alone. However, the occasional occurrence of one or two inner‐bar rip channels within one outer‐bar crescent suggests a forced, morphologically coupled origin. Here we use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to show that alongshore variability in outer‐bar depth, and the relative importance of wave breaking versus wave focussing by refraction across the outer bar, is crucial to the inner‐bar rip channel development. The coupling patterns simulated by our model are similar to those observed in the field. Morphological coupling requires a template in the morphology (outer‐bar geometry) which, through the positive feedback between flow, sediment transport and the evolving morphology (that is, self‐organization) enforces the development of coupling patterns. We therefore introduce a novel mechanism that blurs the distinction between self‐organization and template mechanisms. This mechanism may also be extended to explain the dynamics of other nearshore patterns, such as beach cusps. The impact of this novel mechanism on the alongshore variability of inner‐bar rip channels is investigated in the companion paper. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Dye dispersion in the surf zone: Measurements and simple models

To examine the spatial and temporal effect of low-volume land-based runoff on beach contamination, discrete batches of dye were released at the shoreline at three beaches in Santa Monica Bay in 2000 (Malibu Creek, Santa Monica Canyon and Pico–Kenter drain). Dye concentration was measured at the shoreline 25, 50 and 100 m alongshore from the dye release point for up to 40 min after dye release. The shoreline concentration time series are characterized either by approximately exponential decay in concentration after passage of the dye patch maximum concentration or by persistent low concentration up to 30 min after passage of the initial dye patch front. In the absence of detailed measurements of physical conditions, several simple advection–diffusion models are used to simulate shoreline concentration time series for an idealized surf zone in order to probe the roles of alongshore current shear and rip currents in producing the observed characteristics in dye concentration time series. Favorable qualitative and quantitative comparison of measured and simulated time series suggest alongshore current shear and rip currents play key roles in generating the observed characteristics of nearshore dye patch dispersion. The models demonstrate the potential effects of these flow features on the extent and duration of beach contamination owing to a continuous contamination source.     

Estimation of debris‐flow magnitude in the Eastern Italian Alps

The estimation of debris‐?ow magnitude is an essential step in the assessment of debris‐?ow hazard. Although different methods have been developed for the assessment of debris‐?ow magnitude, this is still a dif?cult task because of the complexity of ?ow processes and the lack of data to test estimation procedures in many mountainous regions. Data on debris‐?ow magnitude from 127 basins in the Eastern Italian Alps have been collected from scienti?c and technical journals, technical reports, historical documents gathered from local archives, and ?eld surveys. These data were used to develop and test different predictive approaches, encompassing regression equations, geomorphological surveys and probabilistic analysis of time series. Regression techniques were used to correlate debris‐?ow magnitude to morphometric parameters and geological characteristics of the basins. Values of the channel debris yield rate (contribution per unit length of channel), proposed in the literature, were compared with data from the study area for identifying reference values for channel stretches of different morphological characteristics. Although limited to the few basins in which suf?cient data were available, the probabilistic analysis of time series of debris‐?ow magnitude provides indications about the relations between magnitude and frequency of debris ?ows. Some observations about the capability and drawbacks of considered methods are presented and the combined use of different approaches for the estimation of debris‐?ow magnitude is suggested. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Assessing aeolian beach‐surface dynamics using a remote sensing approach

A remote sensing technique for assessing beach surface moisture was used to provide insight into beach‐surface evolution during an aeolian event. An experiment was carried out on 21 October 2007 at Greenwich Dunes, Prince Edward Island National Park, Canada, during which cameras were mounted on a mast on the foredune crest at a height of about 14 m above the beach. Maps of beach surface moisture were created based on a calibrated relationship between surface brightness from the photographs and surface moisture content measured in situ at points spaced every 2.5 m along a transect using a Delta‐T moisture probe. A time sequence of maps of surface moisture content captured beach surface evolution through the transport event at a spatial and temporal resolution that would be difficult to achieve with other sampling techniques such as impedance probes. Erosion of the foreshore and berm crest resulted in an increase in surface moisture content in these areas as the wetter underlying sediments were exposed. Flow expansion downwind of the berm crest led to sand deposition and a consequent decrease in surface moisture content. Remote sensing systems such as the one presented here allow observations of the combined evolution of beach surface moisture, shoreline position, and fetch distances during short‐term experiments and hence provide a comprehensive rendering of sediment erosion and transport processes. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Spatial prediction of river channel topography by kriging

Topographic information is fundamental to geomorphic inquiry, and spatial prediction of bed elevation from irregular survey data is an important component of many reach‐scale studies. Kriging is a geostatistical technique for obtaining these predictions along with measures of their reliability, and this paper outlines a specialized framework intended for application to river channels. Our modular approach includes an algorithm for transforming the coordinates of data and prediction locations to a channel‐centered coordinate system, several different methods of representing the trend component of topographic variation and search strategies that incorporate geomorphic information to determine which survey data are used to make a prediction at a specific location. For example, a relationship between curvature and the lateral position of maximum depth can be used to include cross‐sectional asymmetry in a two‐dimensional trend surface model, and topographic breaklines can be used to restrict which data are retained in a local neighborhood around each prediction location. Using survey data from a restored gravel‐bed river, we demonstrate how transformation to the channel‐centered coordinate system facilitates interpretation of the variogram, a statistical model of reach‐scale spatial structure used in kriging, and how the choice of a trend model affects the variogram of the residuals from that trend. Similarly, we show how decomposing kriging predictions into their trend and residual components can yield useful information on channel morphology. Cross‐validation analyses involving different data configurations and kriging variants indicate that kriging is quite robust and that survey density is the primary control on the accuracy of bed elevation predictions. The root mean‐square error of these predictions is directly proportional to the spacing between surveyed cross‐sections, even in a reconfigured channel with a relatively simple morphology; sophisticated methods of spatial prediction are no substitute for field data. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Short‐term intertidal bar mobility on a ridge‐and‐runnel beach,Merlimont, northern France

Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Wave-induced setup of the mean surface over a sloping beach

A new theoretical approach for the wave-induced setup over a sloping beach is presented that takes into consideration the explicit variations of the surface waves due to bottom slope and viscosity. In this way, the wave forcing of the mean Lagrangian volume fluxes is calculated without assuming that the local depth is constant. The analysis is valid in the region outside the surf zone and is based on the shallow-water assumption. A novel approach for separating the viscous damping of the waves from the frictional damping of the mean flow is introduced, where the mean Eulerian velocity is applied in the bottom stress for the mean fluxes. In the case where the onshore Lagrangian mean transport is zero, a new formula is derived for the Eulerian mean free surface slope, in which the effects of bottom slope, viscous wave damping and frictional bottom drag on the mean flow are clearly identified. The analysis suggests that viscous damping of the waves and frictional dissipation of the Eulerian near-bed return flow could lead to setup outside the surf zone.