Spreading of Stratified Currents in Lowland Reservoirs

The results of comprehensive hydrophysical studies of gradient and density-induced gravitational currents with thermal stratification in valley reservoirs are considered. The lengthwise and vertical development of currents as well as their evolution is considered. Local swells are detected in the near-bed nepheloid layer and clouds of suspended materials are found to be ejected from the density-induced current near abrupt changes in the bed relief. The near-bed density-induced current is found to strongly interact with the drift current in the presence of inner wave and variable-direction wind. The measured vertical profiles of velocity in the sections along the axis of the current and the longitudinal distributions of the average flow velocity and suspended material concentration are found to agree with model calculations.     

Calibrating multi-frequency acoustic backscatter systems for studying near-bed suspended sediment transport processes

The utilisation of sound backscattered from sediments in suspension, to measure profiles of near-bed particle size and concentration, has been gaining increasing acceptance and usage by sedimentologists and coastal engineers over the past two decades. To obtain the sediment parameters from the backscattered signal requires an inversion to be conducted on the signal and this necessitates a system calibration. The calibration can be carried out by detailed acoustic and electronic measurements, or alternatively by measuring the backscattering from suspensions with known scattering characteristics. Here, we explore the latter approach and describe in some detail the calibration of a triple frequency acoustic backscatter system. The aim is to provide coastal scientists involved in using acoustics as a tool for sediment transport research, with a clear exposition of the calibration process. Suspensions of glass spheres of varying particle size were used as the calibration scatterers. To interpret the signal backscatter from the suspension of glass spheres a simple model for sphere scattering is presented. The results show that consistent calibration results can be obtained in a relatively simple and robust manner.     

Numerical investigation of the factors influencing the vertical profiles of current,salinity, and SSC within a turbidity maximum zone

The flow-sediment interaction plays a considerable role on the vertical (internal) profiles of current,salinity and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) within a turbidity maximum zone (TMZ).Numerical modeling provides valuable insights into the complex estuarine physical processes.By combining numerical modeling with field observations,the influencing factors of fine sediment dynamics within the TMZ of Yangtze Estuary have been explored in this study.Firstly,during the neap tide,the measured data present that the current is too weak to break the density stratification,and the vertical flow structure is effectively altered.Secondly,a three-dimensional numerical model based on the Delft3D has been developed and a range of numerical sensitivity analyses were carried out to distinguish the dominant mechanisms and physical processes responsible for the phenomena observed from the measurement data.The numerical investigation highlights the following findings.(1) The vertical profile of currents within the TMZ is largely affected by saltwater intrusion,especially during lower currents when the baroclinic pressure gradient can significantly reshape the local vertical profiles of velocity.(2) The baroclinic effects are primarily determined by the stratification of salinity.(3) In addition to salinity,SSC also influences the local density stratification when its contribution to fluid density is comparable to that of salinity.(4) The settling velocity determines the overall sediment distribution and vertical profiles of the SSC in the water column.The SSC-dependent settling velocity (including the flocculation-induced acceleration and hindered settling deceleration phases) affects the longitudinal movement of the sediments.(5) The vertical profiles of current,salinity and SSC within the TMZ are highly associated with the turbulence determined by the model.The approach to modulate the vertical eddy viscosity in the model,based on the empirical dependency between Rig and Prt,may lead to a numerical instability in the stratified flow.In order to improve the stratification of SSC,additional turbulence damping effect is suggested to be implemented in the model.     

Observation and numerical modeling of tidal dune dynamics

Tidal sand dune dynamics is observed for two tidal cycles in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France. An array of instruments is deployed to measure bathymetric and current variations along dune profiles. Based on the measurements, dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements are quantified and show important dynamics in phase with tidal currents. We observed superimposed ripples on the dune stoss side and front, migrating and changing polarity as tidal currents reverse. A 2D RANS numerical model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of a flat non-cohesive sand bed submitted to a tidal current. The model reproduces the bed evolution until a field of sand bedforms is obtained that are comparable with observed superimposed ripples in terms of geometrical dimensions and dynamics. The model is then applied to simulate the dynamics of a field of large sand dunes of similar size as the dunes observed in situ. In both cases, simulation results compare well with measurements qualitatively and quantitatively. This research allows for a better understanding of tidal sand dune and superimposed ripple morphodynamics and opens new perspectives for the use of numerical models to predict their evolution.     

Morphodynamic and experimental assessments of wave theories in intermediate water depths

Although the near-bed, wave induced currents predicted by the various wave theories are responsible for seabed sediment transport, it is presently unclear which theory should be included in coastal geomorphic models. The theoretical expressions for near-bed, shorenormal flows are re-examined and the predictions are tested with morphodynamic and laboratory data. Five wave theories (Airy, Stokes, Cnoidal, Solitary, and Gerstner) are summarized here and arranged to predict the maximum onshore and offshore near-bed flows and the flow asymmetry as functions of the wave period, the wave height, and the water depth. Morphodynamic argument suggests that only Stokes and Cnoidal wave theories predict the asymmetry required to generate prototype seabed profiles in intermediate water depths. Laboratory measurements of wave induced near-bed flows are then reported and analysed. The results suggest that Stokes wave theory over-predicts the observed peak flows. A correction is derived which is shown to be analogous to the pressure attenuation corrections which are routinely applied to wave recording, seabed mounted transducer measurements.     

Experimental study of near-bed concentration and sediment vertical mixing parameter for vertical concentration distribution in the surf zone

Two formulae for the near-bed concentration(C_a) and the sediment vertical mixing parameter(m) are established based on a large scale wave flume experiment.The advantage of the new formulae is that the turbulent kinetic energy induced by wave breaking can be taken into account;the formula for C_a is in terms of the near-bed,time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy,and the formula for m is in terms of depth-and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy.A new expression for suspended sediment load also is established by depth integration of the vertical distribution of the suspended sediment concentration obtained on basis of the new formulae.Equation validation is done by comparing the predicted C_a and m to measurements for different types of waves(regular wave,wave group,and irregular wave),and good agreement is found.The advantages of the proposed formulae over previous formulae also are discussed.     

The influence of asymmetries in overlying stratification on near-bed turbulence and sediment suspension in a partially mixed estuary

Data collected from the York River estuary demonstrate the importance of asymmetries in stratification to the suspension and transport of fine sediment. Observations collected during two 24-h deployments reveal greater concentrations of total suspended solids during the flood phase of the tide despite nearly symmetric near-bed tidal current magnitude. In both cases, tidally averaged net up-estuary sediment transport near the bed was clearly observed despite the fact that tidally averaged residual near-bed currents were near zero. Tidal straining of the along-channel salinity gradient resulted in a stronger pycnocline lower in the water column during the ebb phase of the tide and appeared to limit sediment suspension. Indirect measurements suggest that the lower, more intense, pycnocline on the ebb acted as a barrier, limiting turbulent length scales and reducing eddy diffusivity well below the pycnocline, even though the lower water column was locally well mixed. In order to more conclusively link changes in stratification to properties of near-bed eddy viscosity and diffusivity, longer duration tripod and mooring data from an additional experiment are examined, that included direct measurement of turbulent velocities. These additional data demonstrate how slight increases in stratification can limit vertical mixing near the bed and impact the structure of the eddy viscosity below the pycnocline. We present evidence that the overlying pycnocline can remotely constrain the vertical turbulent length scale of the underlying flow, limiting sediment resuspension. As a result, the relatively small changes in stratification caused by tidal straining of the pycnocline allow sediment to be resuspended higher in the water column during the flood phase of the tide, resulting in preferential up-estuary transport of sediment.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

Observational evidence for estuarine circulation in the German Wadden Sea

Observational evidence is presented, which corroborates the hypothesis of the general presence of estuarine circulation in the Wadden Sea as put forward in a previous study (Burchard et al., 2008). Current velocity data from moored ADCPs (in the Hörnum Deep south of Sylt Island, 2002-2009) and ship cruises (in several locations in the German Wadden Sea, 2000-2008) were analysed. As a general result, the vertical current profiles above the benthic boundary layer are usually more homogeneous during flood than during ebb, with a pronounced dependence on the cross-shore horizontal density difference. This tidal asymmetry consequently must lead to a residual outflow of Wadden Sea waters in the upper part and a residual inflow of water in the lower part of the water column, thus giving a generic explanation for the obvious net import of suspended sediments from the German Bight into the Wadden Sea.     

Velocity profiles and basal stresses in natural debris flows

The internal deformation within debris flows holds essential information on dynamics and flow resistance of such mass-wasting processes. Systematic measurements of velocity profiles in real-scale debris flows are not yet available. Additionally, data on basal stresses of the solid and the fluid phase are rare. Here, we present and analyse measurements of vertical velocity profiles in two debris flows naturally occurring in the Gadria Creek, Italy. The method is based on cross-correlation of paired conductivity signals from an array of sensors installed on a fin-shaped wall located in the middle of the channel. Additionally, we measure normal stress and pore fluid pressure by two force plates with integrated pressure transducers. We find internal deformation throughout the flows. Only at the very front was some en-bloc movement observed. Velocity profiles varied from front to tail and between flows. For one debris flow, pore fluid pressure close to normal stress was measured, whereas the other flow was less liquefied. The median shear rates were mostly less than 5 s⁻¹ and Savage numbers at the basal layer ranged from 0.01 to 1. Our results highlight the variable nature of debris flows and provide quantitative data on shear rate and basal stress distribution to help guide model development for hazard assessment and landscape evolution. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Monitoring the physical forcing of resuspension events in the Thermaikos Gulf—NW Aegean during 2001–2003

This work constitutes an attempt to assess the relative importance of natural versus anthropogenic forcing for sediment resuspension on the shelf of the Thermaikos Gulf (NW Aegean) through a 2-year experiment in the framework of the E.U. project INTERPOL. Four periods of different hydrographic characteristics were identified, including two periods of stronger vertical homogenisation and two of stratified conditions. The former periods were characterized by stronger near-bed currents, while relatively weak internal wave motions dominated the periods of stratification. The near-bed currents showed strong coherence with the wind during the period of full homogenisation, whereas during stratification periods the wind provided indirect forcing evident mostly in the internal-wave bands. The site was too deep for the surface waves to cause any sediment resuspension. In conclusion, the observed near-bed currents at the site of interest did not appear to produce significant local resuspension of sediment; notably, the current-turbidity correlation suggested a shoreward transport of suspended material. The large-scale turbidity variability was rather related to the onset of the trawling period in mid-October 2001 and the increased riverine discharge in late summer/autumn 2002.     

Monitoring alluvial sand suspension by eddy correlation

Eddy correlation techniques are standard tools in micrometeorology and oceanography to measure momentum and contaminant transport across turbulent boundary layers. They can, in theory, be used to estimate the net vertical suspended sediment flux directly over different areas of an alluvial channel boundary, and thus disclose ongoing erosion/deposition patterns. The basic principles and main problems in applying the technique to alluvial suspension are first introduced. Results from a trial application of the method in a large sand bed river are then presented; the focus of the analysis is on the substantial (and surprising) contributions of multi-minute flow fluctuations to suspension work in the study environment. The data were collected in a 10 m deep channel of the Fraser River near Mission, British Columbia, Canada. Turbulent fluctuations of flow components streamwise and normal to the bed, along with the output of an optical suspended sediment sensor, were monitored over 7 h, 1 m above the bed. Flow velocities averaged 0·9 ms^?1 and mean suspended sediment concentrations 500 mgl^?1, at sensor level above 1–5 dm high dunes. Spectral analysis of the records reveals that approximately 30 per cent of the vertical suspended sand mixing across the sensor level (and roughly as much of the momentum exchange) was linked to gradual flow oscillations with periods between 1 and 13·6 min (underlying briefer, turbulent fluctuations). Extended periods of sediment-rich, slightly upward directed but slower mean flow alternated with periods of sediment-poor, slightly downward and faster mean flow; these slow fluctuations involved 10–20 cms^?1 changes in 5 min average flow speed, 2–4· changes in vertical flow angle and 100 mgl^?1 changes in mean sand concentration. To obtain accurate eddy-correlation estimates of the vertical suspension flux in the study conditions, hour-scale flow and turbidity records that include many of these multi-minute cycles appear to be necessary. The spectra of the Fraser River near-bed signals do not conspicuously differ in overall shape (in terms of low-frequency content and location of peak) from turbulent spectra encountered in some atmospheric boundary layers. Nonetheless, the long period fluctuations observed on the Fraser River may not be turbulent; rather they may reflect slowly evolving perturbations in the near-bed streamlines, caused by bedform translation or gradual fluctuation within the large-scale streamwise cells of the secondary flow.     

Currents induced by vertical varied radiation stress in standing waves and evolution of the bed composed of fine sediments

This paper extends the conventional concept of radiation stress （Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964） in progressive water waves to standing waves, so that its vertical profile could be defined and calculated in a new technical way. The hydrodynamic numerical model being coupled with the vertically varying radiation stress in standing waves is used to simulate the currents being induced by standing waves in the vertical section. Numerical modeling of suspended sediment transport is then carried out to simulate the evolution of the bed composed of fine sediments by the currents. The scour and deposition patterns simulated are in qualitative agreement with prior laboratory and field observations.     

Evaluation of in situ and remote sensing sampling methods for SPM concentrations, Belgian continental shelf (southern North Sea)

Large sets of suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentration data from in situ and remote sensing (moderate resolution imaging spectroradiometer, MODIS) samplings in the Belgian nearshore area (southern North Sea) are combined in order to evaluate their heterogeneity and the sampling techniques. In situ SPM concentration measurements are from a vessel (tidal cycle) and from a tripod. During the tidal cycle measurements, vertical profiles of SPM concentration have been collected; these profiles have been used as a link between satellite surface and near-bed tripod SPM concentrations. In situ time series at fixed locations using a tripod are excellent witnesses of SPM concentrations under all weather conditions and may catch SPM concentration variability with a much finer scale. The heterogeneity has been statistically assessed by comparing the SPM concentration frequency distributions. Tidal cycle, tripod and MODIS datasets have different distributions and represent a different subpopulation of the whole SPM concentrations population. The differences between the datasets are related to meteorological conditions during the measurements; to near-bed SPM concentration dynamics, which are partially uncoupled from processes higher up in the water column; to the sampling methods or schemes and to measurement uncertainties. In order to explain the differences between the datasets, the tripod data have been subsampled using wave height conditions and satellite and tidal cycle sampling schemes. It was found that satellites and low-frequent tidal cycle measurements are biased towards good weather condition or spring–summer seasons (satellite). The data show that the mean surface SPM concentration derived from satellite data is slightly lower than from in situ tidal cycle measurements, whereas it is significantly lower than the mean SPM concentration interpolated to the water surface from the tripod measurements. This is explained by the errors arising from the interpolation along the vertical profiles, but also by the fact that satellite-measured signal saturates in the visible band used to retrieve SPM concentration in very turbid waters.     

Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand: Observations of nearshore sediment segregation and oceanic storms

Nearshore regions act as an interface between the terrestrial environment and deeper waters. As such, they play important roles in the dispersal of fluvial sediment and the transport of sand to and from the shoreline. This study focused on the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand, and the processes controlling the dispersal of sediment from the main source, the Waipaoa River. Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in water shallower than 15 m were observed from April through mid-September 2006. This deployment afforded observations during 3-4 periods of elevated river discharge and 5 dry storms.Similar wind, river discharge, wave, current, and turbidity patterns were characterized during three of the wet storms. At the beginning of each event, winds blew shoreward, increasing wave heights to 2-3 m within Poverty Bay. As the cyclonic storms moved through the system the winds reversed direction and became seaward, reducing the local wave height and orbital velocity while river discharge remained elevated. At these times, high river discharge and relatively small waves enabled fluvially derived suspended sediment to deposit in shallow water. Altimetry measurements indicated that at least 7 cm was deposited at a 15 m deep site during a single discharge event. Turbidity and seabed observations showed this deposition to be removed, however, as large swell waves from the Southern Ocean triggered resuspension of the material within three weeks of deposition. Consequently, two periods of dispersal were associated with each discharge pulse, one coinciding with fluvial delivery, and a second driven by wave resuspension a few weeks later. These observations of nearfield sediment deposition contradict current hypotheses of very limited sediment deposition in shallow water offshore of small mountainous rivers when floods and high-energy, large wave and fast current, oceanic conditions coincide.Consistently shoreward near-bed currents, observed along the 10 m isobath of Poverty Bay, were attributed to a combination of estuarine circulation, Stokes drift, and wind driven upwelling. Velocities measured at the 15 m isobath, however, were directed more alongshore and diverged from those at the 10 m isobath. The divergence in the currents observed at the 10 and 15 m locations seemed to facilitate segregation of coarse and fine sediment, with sand transported near-bed toward the beach, while suspended silts and clays were exported to deeper water.     

Adaptation of the S-5-S pendulum seismometer for measurement of rotational ground motion

The Russian electrodynamic seismometer model S-5-S has been adapted for the measurement of rotational ground motion. The mechanical system of the original S-5-S seismometer consists of electrodynamic sensing and damping transducer coils mounted on an asymmetrical double-arm pendulum. This pendulum is suspended on a footing using two pairs of crossed flat springs, which operate as the axis of rotation. The pendulum is stabilised by an additional spring. The S-5-S can be used either as a vertical or as a horizontal sensor. The adaptation of the S-5-S seismometer described below involves removal of the additional spring and installation of an additional mass on the damping arm. Strain gauge angle sensors are installed on one pair of the crossed flat springs. The main dynamic parameters of the rotational seismometer created in this way, i.e. the natural period and damping, are controlled electronically by feedback currents proportional to the angular displacement and angular velocity, both fed to the damping transducer coil. This new seismometer, named the S-5-SR, enables measurement of the rotational component of ground motion around the horizontal or the vertical axes. The output signal from this S-5-SR seismometer can be proportional either to rotational displacement or rotational velocity.     

Properties of suspended sediment in the estuarine turbidity maximum of the highly turbid Humber Estuary system, UK

Measurements are presented of the properties of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) of the upper Humber and Ouse estuaries during transient, relatively low freshwater inflow conditions of September 1995. Very high concentrations of near-bed SPM (more than 100 g l⁻¹) were observed in the low-salinity (less than 1), upper reaches. SPM within the ETM consisted largely of fine sediment (silt and clay) that existed as microfloc and macrofloc aggregates and individual particles. Primary sediment particles were very fine grained, and typically, about 20–30% was clay-sized at high water. The clay mineralogy was dominated by chlorite and illite. There was a pronounced increase in particle size in the tidal river, up-estuary of the ETM. The mean specific surface area (SSA) of near-bed SPM within the ETM was 22 m² g⁻¹ on a spring tide and 24 m² g⁻¹ on a neap tide. A tidal cycle of measurements within a near-bed, high concentration SPM layer during a very small neap tide gave a mean SSA of 26 m² g⁻¹. The percentage of silt and clay in surficial bed sediments along the main channel of the estuary varied strongly. The relatively low silt and clay percentage of surficial bed sediments (about 10–35%) within the ETM’s region of highest near-bed SPM concentrations and their low SSA values were in marked contrast to the overlying SPM. The loss on ignition (LOI) of near-bed SPM in the turbid reaches of the estuary was about 10%, compared with about 12% for surface SPM and more than 40% in the very low turbidity waters up-estuary of the ETM. Settling velocities of Humber–Ouse SPM, sampled in situ and measured using a settling column, maximized at 1.5 mm s⁻¹ and exhibited hindered settling at higher SPM concentrations.     

On the significance of wind event frequency for particulate resuspension and light attenuation in coastal waters

Wind-induced resuspension of particulate matter was investigated in a shallow coastal region off southwestern Australia, chosen for its isolation from the complexity of other confounding physical processes. The site had negligible river discharge, low nutrient concentrations and was largely devoid of tidal currents. Moorings were deployed in the micro-tidal waters to measure current speed, wave parameters, backscatter, subsurface irradiance and dissolved oxygen concentration. Two contrasting sites were chosen as representative of high and low wave-energy environments. Turbulent kinetic energy, recorded by the instruments, was dominated by the wind-wave signal. During wind events, at the most exposed site, bed shear stress exceeded the critical stress required to lift and resuspend sediments. At the most enclosed site, bed shear stresses only exceeded the critical stress required to suspend less dense material such as benthic fluff. Wind-waves were found to be the dominant mechanism driving the vertical redistribution of particulate matter. Low frequency storm events and high frequency (daily) sea breezes were found to differ significantly in their retention of particulate matter suspended in the water column. Long periods of calm generally followed the passage of a storm, allowing suspended particulate matter to settle out, while consecutive daily sea breezes were more effective in holding particulate matter in suspension. Linear correlations were found between the backscatter (a proxy for suspended particulate matter), light attenuation and dissolved oxygen concentration. Approximately half the variability in dissolved oxygen concentration could be attributed to the variability in light attenuation, with a decline in concentration during wind resuspension events. Variability in dissolved oxygen concentration was interpreted as a possible indicator of the moderation of pelagic phytoplankton productivity during wind events.     

Rapid alternating vertical temperature gradients in the East China Sea

Data from an array of current meters, thermistor chains, and meteorologically instrumented buoys deployed in the shallow water (depths of 97 to 115 m) of the East China Sea during AMTEX-75 (February 1985) show that the vertical temperature difference between the 20 and 70 m depths regularly alternated between∼0°C and a maximum of 0.65°C. The periodicity of change was predominantly that of the semidiurnal tide, 12.4 h, with some modulation at diurnal or near diurnal periodicity. The vertical gradient developed most often when currents were in a northwest direction, a direction parallel to the average northwest-southeast horizontal surface water temperature gradient; when the currents reversed 180°, to the southeast, the vertical gradients tended to decrease or disappear altogether. An explanation is given in terms of vertical shear in the semidiurnal tidal currents coupled with the slightly higher current speeds during the offshelf phase (southeast direction) of the current ellipse.     

Feedback between residual circulations and sediment distribution in highly turbid estuaries: An analytical model

Motivated by field studies of the Ems estuary which show longitudinal gradients in bottom sediment concentration as high as O(0.01 kg/m⁴), we develop an analytical model for estuarine residual circulation based on currents from salinity gradients, turbidity gradients, and freshwater discharge. Salinity is assumed to be vertically well mixed, while the vertical concentration profile is assumed to result from a balance between a constant settling velocity and turbulent diffusive flux. Width and depth of the model estuary are held constant. Model results show that turbidity gradients enhance tidally averaged circulation upstream of the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM), but significantly reduce residual circulation downstream, where salinity and turbidity gradients oppose each other. We apply the condition of morphodynamic equilibrium (vanishing sediment transport) and develop an analytical solution for the position of the turbidity maximum and the distribution of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) along a longitudinal axis. A sensitivity study shows great variability in the longitudinal distribution of suspended sediment with the applied salinity gradient and six model parameters: settling velocity, vertical mixing, horizontal dispersion, total sediment supply, fresh water flow, and water depth. Increasing depth and settling velocity move the ETM upstream, while increasing freshwater discharge and vertical mixing move the ETM downstream. Moreover, the longitudinal distribution of SSC is inherently asymmetric around the ETM, and depends on spatial variations in the residual current structure and the vertical profile of SSC.