Ⅰ.随机海浪列率谱估计方法

首次将列率谱分析的两种谱估计方法：并矢周期图法和并矢相关法引入到随机海浪的研究。文中就不同环境条件下实验室资料，对两种谱估计方法进行了比较，结果表明：两种谱估计方法所得结果非常吻合。     

随机海浪列率谱与频率谱的实验比较研究：Ⅰ.随机海浪列率谱估计方法

首次将列率谱分析的两种谱估计方法,并矢周期图法和并矢相关法引入到随机海浪的研究,文中就不同环境条件下实验室资料,对两种谱估计方法进行了比较,结果表明：两种谱估计方法所得结果非常吻合。     

Ⅱ风浪列率谱的实验研究

利用风浪实验资料,系统地研究了列率谱随风速,风区的演变规律。与频率谱的计算结果比较表明：在主含能频段,特别在峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果基本吻合。但在高频段,特别在二倍峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果存在明显差异。文中就其存在的差异给出了可能的物理解释。     

Ⅲ变浅作用下列率谱和频率谱的实验研究

为研究变浅作用下的非线性海浪，本文利用并矢相关谱估计方法，设计并进行了多种强度下，由深水传入近岸浪变浅作用下，列率谱和频率谱随水深和坡度变化的实验比较研究。     

海浪方向谱估计方法的比较

分别利用数值模拟和实测资料对目前被认为分辨力较高的最大似然法(MLM)、扩展本征矢方法(EEV)、扩展最大滴方法(EMEP)以及贝叶斯方法(BDM)等四种海浪方向谱估计方法的可靠性进行了分析,从不同频率、不同噪声水平和不同方向集中度三个角度检验其再现性、稳定性和实用性,结果表明MLM、EEV和BDM大致给出相同的方向分布,其中BDM的再现性最好,但实用性逊于MLM和EEV,EMEP由于稳定性差,不适用于实测资料的分析.     

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

现代海浪功率谱估计的改进算法

海浪谱是随机海浪的一个重要统计性质,它不仅包含着海浪的二阶信息,而且还直接给出了海浪组成波能量相对于频率和方向的分布。谱方法已经成为研究海浪及其有关问题的有力工具。文中主要参照现代谱估计中的THREE谱估计方法,对基于Kullback-Leibler度量的随机信号的功率谱估计方法中优化参数的求解算法进行了改进,并与基于Hellinger度量的谱估计方法进行了比较。通过数值模拟和谱分析证实基于这两种度量的功率谱估计算法都能有效地避免谱线分裂和谱峰偏移现象。     

南海海域BT资料、南森站资料计算温跃层--三项示性特征的比较

南海海域海水温度调查资料主要为BT资料和南森站资料两种类型,为比较两种资料计算的温度跃层三项示性特征的区别,本文用同一种温跃层识别、统计方法分别对两种类型资料进行了判别和统计,在此基础上,绘制了南海冬、夏季跃层强度分布图。结果表明,两种类型的调查资料在计算浅温度跃层强度和上界深度上有较明显区别,BT资料的温跃层强度计算结果大于南森站资料,温度跃层上界较南森站资料深,温跃层厚度亦有差别,但规律不明显。两种类型资料对深温度跃层三项示性特征值的计算结果差异不明显。     

现场ηUV、PUV和UV波浪方向谱估计方法及比较

波浪方向谱的现场观测和谱估计方法是海洋动力研究的重要基础课题之一。本文依据不规则线性波理论，推导了ηＵＶ、ＰＵＶ和ＵＶ方法方向谱计算式，并利用η和ＰＵＶ实测数据进行了方向谱估计，同时比较了各种模式优劣，为现场波浪观测提供依据。     

入·反射波共存浪场的方向分布估计

基于管长龙等（１９９５ａ,ｂ）的扩展本征矢方法,提出了可用于入射波和反射波共存浪场能量方向分布的估计方法,并给出了直接计算反射率的公式。数值模拟结果表明,此方法大大改善了原有方法的估计精度,计算得到的反射率在一定范围内与实际符合     

Estimation of Wind Wave Frequency Spectra by Use of the Arcsine Law

In the present study,the surface elevation of wind waves oberved in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrum by use of the method of the arcsine law(MAL).The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL,presented by Yu and Lan(1979),uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation.66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan.Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra.Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method.The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.     

风浪槽内风浪外频谱谱形的一些特征

利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。     

基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型

海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。     

论运动坐标系中的海浪谱

基于Galieo变换，导出了运动坐标系与静止坐标系中海浪谱间的关系。由于海浪是频散的，两者间的关系是频率相关的。运动坐标系中的海浪频谱是与静止坐标系中的海浪方向谱相联系的。以文氏谱作为静止坐标系中的海浪频谱，给出了不同速度下运动坐标系中的海浪频谱。     

The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum: Part III — Directional spreading

The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell. A full parametric relationship for the directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is developed. The analysis clearly shows that typical dispersion relationships are questionable at high frequencies and that such effects can be significant. This result supports greater attention being focussed on the routine recording of wavenumber spectra, rather than frequency spectra.     

Taylor Dispersion of Contaminants by Dual-peak Spectral Random Waves

Recent extensive and important studies have provided detailed information and compelling evidence on how the presence of waves influences the vertical diffusivity/dispersivity in the coastal environment, which can affect various water quality considerations such as the distribution of suspended sediments in the water column as well as the potential of eutrophication. Comparatively, how the presence of waves influences the horizontal diffusivity/dispersivity has received only scant attention in the literature. Our previous works investigated the role played by the Taylor mechanism due to the wave-induced drift profile which leads to the longitudinal dispersion of contaminants in the horizontal direction, under regular sinusoidal waves and random waves with single-peak spectra.Natural waves in the coastal environment, however, often possess dual-peak spectra, comprising both higher frequency wind waves and lower frequency swells. In this study, the Taylor dispersion of contaminants under random waves with dual-peak spectra is examined through analytical derivation and numerical calculations. The effects of various dual-peak spectral parameters on the horizontal dispersion, including the proportion of lower frequency energy, peak frequency ratio and spectral shape parameter, are investigated. The results show that the relative energy distribution between the dual peaks has the most significant effect. Compared with single-peak spectra with equivalent energy, the Taylor dispersion with dual-peak spectra is stronger when the lower frequency is close to the peak frequency of the single-peak spectrum, and weaker with the higher frequency instead. Thus, it can be concluded that with a dual-peak wave spectrum, wind-dominated seas with higher frequency lead to stronger dispersion in the horizontal direction than swell-dominated seas with lower frequency.     

Measurement of the signal to noise ratio in seismic profiling

The measurement of the signal to noise ratio in continuous seismic profiling systems is carried out by means of a small general purpose digital computer equipped with an analog to digital converter. The computer is programmed to compute and compare the power spectrum of a sample of noise to the power spectrum of a sample of noise plus an echo. Power spectra of some twenty to fifty shots are averaged to yield reliable estimates of the signal to noise ratio as a function of frequency. The observed spectra agree well with spectra calculated from signals measured near to an air-gun. This measurement of signal to noise ratio as a function of frequency provides unambiguous information for the adjustment of the necessary band-pass filter thus improving the operation of a continuous seismic profiler.     

不规则波下船舶运动响应特征数值分析

针对不规则波浪作用下Wigley型船的运动响应问题进行了系统的研究,采用统计学方法深入探讨了船舶不规则运动幅值和响应周期的分布规律,并通过傅里叶变换对船舶运动响应进行了频谱特征分析。结果表明,船舶横摇方向与升沉和纵摇方向随机运动的响应特征有显著差异。在升沉与纵摇方向,波浪谱峰频率远离自振频率,前十分之一大振幅运动对应周期离散性较小,基本稳定在波浪谱峰周期附近,但小振幅运动周期分布离散性较大,频谱分析指出船舶升沉与纵摇运动响应频谱在波浪谱峰频率附近出现明显峰值。而在横摇方向,波浪谱峰频率与自振频率相耦合,不同振幅的横摇运动响应周期均稳定在自振周期附近,且周期离散性较小,频谱分析也表明横摇运动响应频谱主要集中于船舶运动自振频率附近。     

Numerical Study of Two-Dimensional Focusing Waves

Two-dimensional focusing waves are generated and investigated by numerical method. The numerical model is developed by introducing the wave maker boundary on the high-order spectral （HOS） method proposed by Dommermuth and Yue in 1987 and verified by theoretical and experimental data. Some cases of focusing waves considering different parameters such as assumed focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum are generated. Characteristics of the focusing wave including surface elevations, the maximum crest, shift of focusing points and frequency spectra are discussed. The results show that the focusing wave characteristics are strongly affected by focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum.     

以海浪波要素表示的外频谱形式

孙孕等（１９９４）提出了外频谱的概念,并推导出外频谱的理论形式,但其控制参量是由内频谱导出的,不便于实际应用,通过对实测海浪数据的分析,得到了控制外频谱的３个和内频谱有关的参量与波浪要素之间的关系,进而将外频谱表示以有效波高和有效波周期作为控制参量的形式,应用实测资料将本文得到的外频谱形式与理论外频谱进行了比较,发现二者符合良好。