Wind and current patterns in an arctic coast Lagoon

The response of wind-drift currents to the prevailing summer wind regime is reported for Simpson Lagoon on the Beaufort Sea (Arctic Ocean) coast of Alaska. Wind and current measurements were taken over the period July 17 to October 20 and August 11 to September 18, 1972, respectively, at a site eastward of the Colville River delta. Mean wind speeds and the frequency of occurrence of westerly storms tend to increase from July to October. Prevailing currents within the lagoon are towards the W to NW driven by the prevailing northeasterly winds. Relatively rapid reversals of current direction occur in response to alternating easterly and westerly winds. Cross correlations of power spectra of the filtered E-W components of the lagoon current record with the concurrent wind data gave a periodicity of 4–5 days at a 70% level of coherence. A linear correlation of −0·83 was obtained between the E-W components of the filtered current record and the wind record, and net water transport (from a progressive current vector analysis) over this period was determined to be towards the WNW with a mean vector velocity of 10·6 cm/sec.     

A numerical model investigation of the residual circulation in Hauraki Gulf,New Zealand

The homogeneous residual circulation in Hauraki Gulf arising from the tides, steady winds, and oceanic inflows is considered by use of a depth‐averaged 2‐dimensional numerical model. Vertical current structure of the wind‐driven circulation is derived by using the computed wind‐induced sea surface slopes, the wind stress, and a prescribed vertical eddy viscosity. Tidal residual circulation is weak, less than 0.01 ms^‐1 over most of the Gulf. The response of the Gulf to wind‐forcing indicates a preference for north‐west/south‐east directed winds, the flow through the Gulf being more than 3 times as strong as for winds from other directions. Surface currents are mainly in the wind direction, but subsurface currents reveal closed circulation cells in near‐coastal areas. Simple oceanic inflows give rise to water movements which penetrate to the inner part of the Gulf.     

Inverse-estuarine Features of the Upper Gulf of California

The Upper Gulf of California is the shallow (depth <30 m), tidal area at the head of the Gulf of California. It is an inverse estuary, due to the high evaporation rate (E1·1 m year⁻¹) and almost nil freshwater input from rainfall and the Colorado River. Historical and recent hydrographic data show that the area is almost vertically well-mixed throughout the year, that the horizontal distribution of properties follows the bathymetry, and that the hydrography has a strong annual modulation. As in other negative estuaries, the year-round salinity increase toward the head causes the density to do likewise, despite the seasonally reversing temperature gradient. The pressure gradient thus formed leads to water-mass formation and gravity currents (speed 0·1 ms⁻¹), both in winter and in summer. In winter, the high salinity water sinks beyond 200 m, while in summer it only reaches a depth of 20–30 m. The gravity currents appear to be modulated by the fortnightly tidal cycle, with events in neap tides. This phenomenon causes the presence, at least during neap tides, of slight stratification (Δσ_t≈−0·2).     

Hydrology and Salt Balance in a Large, Hypersaline Coastal Lagoon: Lagoa de Araruama, Brazil

Lagoa de Araruama in the state of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, is a hypersaline coastal lagoon as a result of semi-arid climate conditions, a small drainage basin and a choked entrance channel. The lagoon has been continuously hypersaline for at least 4·5 centuries, but the mean salinity has varied substantially. It has recently decreased from 57 to 52 as indicated by density (salinity) measurements between 1965 and 1990.Analysis of more than 20 years of salinity time series data, in addition to monthly lagoon cruises to measure the spatial salinity distribution, indicate that the lagoon salinity largely fluctuates in response to the difference between evaporation and precipitation. The major factor explaining the long-term trend of decreasing salinity in the lagoon is the constant pumping of 1 m³s⁻¹of freshwater to the communities surrounding the lagoon from an adjacent watershed, and subsequent discharge of this water into Lagoa de Araruama. The net salt budget is primarily a balance between the advective import of salt from the coastal ocean and eddy diffusive export of salt to the ocean, although the extensive mining of salt from the lagoon during past decades is also a small but significant contribution to the salt budget. The flushing half-life is proposed as a useful time scale of water exchange, is calculated based on a combination of hydrological and tidal processes, and is excellent for comparison of lagoons and assessing water quality changes. The flushing half-life measures 83·5 days for Lagoa de Araruama, considerably longer than for most other coastal lagoons. The proposed dredging of a second ocean channel to Lagoa de Araruama is probably not a good idea. It is likely to accelerate the decrease of lagoon salinity and somewhat improve the lagoon water exchange. At the same time, this will eliminate the apparent buffering capacity provided by the hypersaline environment, and thus may potentially cause water quality problems.     

北部湾的环流和水团对季节性强迫的响应

In the past 20 a, the gulf-scale circulation in the Beibu Gulf has been commonly accepted to be driven by a wind stress or density gradient. However, using three sensitive experiments based on a three-dimensional baroclinic model that was verified by observations, the formation mechanisms were revealed： the circula- tion in the northern Beibu Gulf was triggered by the monsoon wind throughout a year; whereas the southern gulf circulation was driven by the monsoon wind and South China Sea （SCS） circulation in winter and sum- mer, respectively. The force of heat flux and tidal harmonics had a strong effect on the circulation strength and range, as well as the local circulation structures, but these factors did not influence the major circulation structure in the Beibu Gulf. On the other hand, the Beibu Gulf Cold Water Mass （BGCWM） would disappear without the force of heat flux because the seasonal thermocline layer was generated by the input of heat so that the vertical mixing between the upper hot water and lower cold water was blocked. In addition, the wind-induced cyclonic gyre in the northern gulf was favorable to the existence of the BGCWM. However, the coverage area of the BGCWM was increased slightly without the force of the tidal harmonics. When the model was driven by the monthly averaged surface forcing, the circulation structure was changed to some extent, and the coverage area of the BGCWM almost extended outwards 100%, implying the circulation and water mass in the Beibu Gulf had strong responses to the temporal resolution of the surface forces.     

Physical oceanographic conditions in the deepwater Gulf of Mexico in summer 2000–2002

The circulation and distribution of water properties in the water column of the Gulf of Mexico influence the flux of carbon to the benthic environment. The eddy field of the upper 1000 m creates environmental conditions that are favorable for biological productivity in an otherwise oligotrophic subtropical ocean. This eddy field results in the transport of nutrients and organic matter into the photic zone through cross-margin flow of shelf waters, upwelling in cyclones, and uplift from the interaction of anticyclones with bathymetry. These conditions then allow the productivity that becomes a possible source of carbon to the benthos.Data from four cruises during summers of 2000–2002 are used to describe the currents and water property distributions in the deepwater Gulf of Mexico, which consists of water depths greater than 400 m. Comparisons are made to historical data sets to provide an understanding of the persistence of the characteristics of the Gulf and the processes that occur there.The currents in the Gulf are surface intensified, have minimum in 800–1000 m depths, and also exhibit bottom intensification, especially near sloping topography. Historical time series records show current speeds near-bottom reach 50–100 cm s⁻¹. At basin scales, these currents tend to flow cyclonically (counter-clockwise) along the bathymetry. These near-bottom, episodic, high-speed currents provide a mechanism for the transport of organic material, in both large and small particle sizes, from one benthic area to another.The distributions of temperature, salinity, nutrients, and dissolved oxygen during the study appear to be unchanged from historical findings. The source waters for the deep Gulf are the water masses brought into the Gulf by the Loop Current system. The properties in the upper 100–200 m are the most variable of the water column, consistent with their proximity to wind mixing, river discharge mixing, and atmospheric influences. Below 1500 m, there are no major horizontal variations in these water properties.     

Evaluation of a dynamically downscaled atmospheric reanalyse in the prospect of forcing long term simulations of the ocean circulation in the Gulf of Lions

The paper evaluates atmospheric reanalysis as possible forcing of model simulations of the ocean circulation inter-annual variability in the Gulf of Lions in the Western Mediterranean Sea between 1990 and 2000. The sensitivity of the coastal atmospheric patterns to the model resolution is investigated using the REMO regional climate model (18 km, 1 h), and the recent global atmospheric reanalysis ERA40 (125 km, 6 h). At scales from a few years to a few days, both atmospheric data sets exhibit a very similar weather, and agreement between REMO and ERA40 is especially good on the seasonal cycle and at the daily variability scale. At smaller scales, REMO reproduces more realistic spatio-temporal patterns in the ocean forcing: specific wind systems, particular atmospheric behaviour on the shelf, diurnal cycle, sea-breeze. Ocean twin experiments (1990–1993) clearly underline REMO skills to drive dominant oceanic processes in this microtidal area. Finer wind patterns induce a more realistic circulation and hydrology of the shelf water: unique shelf circulation, upwelling, temperature and salinity exchanges at the shelf break. The hourly sampling of REMO introduces a diurnal forcing which enhances the behaviour of the ocean mixed layer. In addition, the more numerous wind extremes modify the exchanges at the shelf break: favouring the export of dense shelf water, enhancing the mesoscale variability and the interactions of the along slope current with the bathymetry.     

On the estuarine transport reversal in deep layers of the Gulf of Finland

The Gulf of Finland is a 400-km long and 48–135-km wide tributary estuary of the Baltic Sea featuring the longitudinal two-layer estuarine flow modified by transverse circulation. Longitudinal volume transport in the deep layer is investigated by decomposing it into an averaged, slowly changing estuarine component (due to large-scale density gradients, river discharge and mean wind stress) and wind-driven fluctuating component. The derived expression relates the total deep-layer transport to the projection of wind stress fluctuation to a site-specific direction. The relationship is tested and calibrated by the results from numerical experiments carried out with the three-dimensional baroclinic circulation model. For the entrance to the Gulf of Finland, winds from northeast support standard estuarine circulation and winds from southwest work against the density-driven and riverine flow. The deep estuarine transport may be reversed if the southwesterly wind component exceeds the mean value by 4–5.5 m s⁻¹. According to the data from hydrographic observations in the western Gulf of Finland, an event of advective halocline disappearance was documented in August 1998. Comparison of the deep-water transport estimates calculated from the wind data in 1998 with the observed salinity variations showed that the events of rapid decay of estuarine stratification were coherent with the estimated reversals of deep-layer volume transport, i.e. events of salt wedge export from the gulf.     

Evolution of oceanographic conditions off Baja California: 1997–1999

This paper examines the oceanic response off Baja California, Mexico, to the 1997–1998 El Niño and the transition to La Niña conditions. The data presented were gathered during seven cruises over a grid based on the CalCOFI station plan, from lines 100–130, out to station 80. T–S diagrams with data obtained during the peak phase of El Niño, demonstrate that warmer and saltier (spicier) than normal conditions prevailed in the upper 600 m over this region. Temperature and salinity anomalies calculated for CalCOFI line 120 revealed waters near the coast at 50 m depth to be up to 8.7 °C warmer and S=0.8 saltier than the climatology during October 1997. These large anomalies persisted through January 1998, with some slight diminution in the magnitudes near the surface. This study suggests that anomalously warm and salty waters were fed from a source of spicy water to the southwest, identified as Subtropical Surface Water (StSW), and that low-salinity Tropical surface waters (TSW) were blocked to the southeast in the vicinity of the tip of the Peninsula. Subsurface waters associated with the California undercurrent (CU), fed from the Eastern Tropical Pacific (ETP), were also warmer and saltier than normal, and indicate a significant expansion in volume of the CU, presumably a result of intensification of poleward flow at depth. We postulate that the well defined near-surface and deep poleward flows in the study area reflect anomalous large-scale cyclonic circulation affecting the flow in the southeastern region of the North Pacific subtropical gyre east of 125°W. Following the El Niño event, warm and salty upper waters retreated to latitudes south of Punta Eugenia. With the return to normal and cooler conditions, equatorward flow over the sampling grid predominated with an increased meandering and mesoscale activity. Transition to La Niña conditions would have been associated with re-establishment of normal anticyclonic flow in the southeastern quadrant of the Pacific subtropical gyre.     

Flux of nutrients in the Gulf of California: Geostrophic approach

Continental margins exert a strong influence on global biogeochemical cycles; however there have been relatively few attempts to quantify either the magnitude or nature of temporal variability in material fluxes. At present here are no reports on nutrient fluxes at the mouth of the Gulf of California (GC) so further information is needed to provide estimated values from direct measurements. From 1995–1999 during five cruises covering all seasons, seawater samples were collected and measured the nutrient content from the surface to the bottom (some deeper than 2500 m) from a repeated hydrographic sections at the mouth of the GC. This chemical and physical database is unique because it covers an area with important biogeochemical signs, which has been detected as one of the highest in primary productivity of the world oceans. These sections are perpendicular to the coastlines of the Mexican states of Baja California Sur (BCS) and Sinaloa. In this section, the most dynamic area was the surface waters in February 1999 with strong geostrophic currents and temperatures of 20 ± 1.5 °C; salinity 35.091 ± 0.156; pH 8.16 ± 0.13; phosphate 0.85 ± 0.42 μM, nitrate + nitrite 2.35 ± 2.94 μM, and ammonia 2.00 ± 1.25 μM (average ± standard deviation).Geostrophic velocities were computed from high-resolution CTD sections across the entrance to the GC. During winter and spring, the outflow occurred near BCS and the inflow occurred either through the center of the section and/or along the Sinaloa coast. Both inflow and outflow cores were 45 km wide and extended deeper than 700 m. Summer and fall showed a complex pattern, alternating cores of inflow and outflow but with inflow along Sinaloa on all cruises. The maximum flow into the Gulf occurs during May in the center of the section while outflow was concentrated along BCS. Mascarenhas et al. [Mascarenhas, A., Castro, R., Collins, C.A., Durazo, R., 2004. Seasonal variation of geostrophic velocity and heat flux at the entrance to the Gulf of California, Mexico. Journal Geophysical Research, 2124.] calculated the section mean geostrophic velocity that was composed of two alternating cores of inflow and outflow. The two cores that were adjacent to either coast were broader and contained the highest inflow (0.40 m s^− 1) and outflow (− 0.25 m s^− 1) velocities, supporting the general idea of inflow along the Sinaloa and an outflow along BCS.The highest nutrient fluxes occur during El Niño conditions in November 1997 with outflows as high as 54.5 Tg yr^− 1 for Phosphate, 43.0 Tg yr^− 1 for Nitrate and 31.7 Tg yr^− 1 for Ammonia, this values were at least three times higher than in February 1999.     

Continental slope sea level and flow variability induced by lateral movements of the Gulf Stream in the Middle Atlantic Bight

As described by [Csanady, G.T., Hamilton, P., 1988. Circulation of slope water. Continental Shelf Research 8, 565–624], the flow regime over the slope of the southern Middle Atlantic Bight (MAB) includes a current reversal in which southwestward flow over the upper and middle slope becomes entrained in the northeastward current adjacent to the Gulf Stream. In this paper we use satellite-derived data to quantify how lateral motions of the Gulf Stream impact this current system. In our analysis, the Gulf Stream’s thermal front is delineated using a two-year time series of sea surface temperature derived from NOAA/AVHRR satellite data. Lateral motions of the Gulf Stream are represented in terms of temporal variations of the area, east of 73°W, between the Gulf Stream thermal front and the shelf edge. Variations of slope water flow within this area are represented by anomalies of geostrophic velocity as derived from the time series of the sea level anomaly determined from TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite altimeter data. A strong statistical relationship is found between Gulf Stream displacements and parabathic flow over the continental slope. It is such that the southwestward flow over the slope is accelerated when the Gulf Stream is relatively far from the shelf edge, and is decelerated (and perhaps even reversed) when the Gulf Stream is close to the shelf edge. This relationship between Gulf Stream displacements and parabathic flow is also observed in numerical simulations produced by the Miami Isopycnic Coordinate Model. In qualitative terms, it is consistent with the notion that when the Gulf Stream is closer to the 200-m isobath, it is capable of entraining a larger fraction of shelf water masses. Alternatively, when the Gulf Stream is far from the shelf-break, more water is advected into the MAB slope region from the northeast. Analysis of the diabathic flow indicates that much of the cross-slope transport by which the southwestward flow entering the study region is transferred to the northeastward flow exiting the region occurs in a narrow band roughly centered at 36.75°N, order 150 km north of Cape Hatteras. This transport, and thus the cyclonic circulation of the southern MAB, strengthens when the Gulf Stream is relatively close to the shelf edge, and weakens when the Gulf Stream is far from the shelf edge.     

Coastal currents adjacent to the Caeté Estuary,Pará Region,North Brazil

We examined and compared tidal currents and water column structure between a near-shore station (12 km from the coast) and an offshore station (32 km from the coast) adjacent to the Caeté River, Pará Region, Brazil. Although the coastal system of Pará is largely influenced by local tides and wind, we found substantial differences in the dominant forcing agents between stations. Water column dynamics at the near-shore station were largely affected by local tidal processes, while differences between surface and bottom layer flows also indicated the importance of gravitational circulation at this station and a substantial influence of the adjacent Caeté River discharge. In comparison, at the offshore station, water column structure was largely influenced by a semi-diurnal tidal flow, an along-coastal current flow (mainly associated with the North Brazil Current) and the dynamics of local wind flow. The near-shore station at low tide showed a high level of stratification; at high tide such stratification was reduced. In comparison, stratification was only apparent within the upper 6 m at the offshore station, the rest of the water column was relatively well-mixed. The stratification within Station 1 at low tide was a result of the bi-directional movement of water discharged from the Caeté River, with lower salinity surface water and high salinity bottom water resulting in an estuarine-like circulation environment. The spatial variability and lack of correlation in current flow and water column structure between the near-shore and offshore stations suggest that a flow field resulting from differences in local circulation, tidal variability and wind persistence separate areas. We argue that this separation may indicate that the offshore station is located in a transition region between the Caeté River waters and the local coastal area.     

Hydrographic observations

During the summer of 1981 a large scale sampling effort took place in the shelf waters of the southeastern United States. The goal of this effort was to quantify the effect of the intrusion of deep Gulf Stream water into these shallow, euphotic waters. By making repeated hydrographic measurements over the entire shelf area, the actual volume of the intrusions was determined. Two main intrusion events were observed: one in June and early July and a second in late July and early August. The intruding water entered the shelf in the region south of St Augustine and was transported northward by the mean northward shelf circulation. The subsurface cold water mass was isolated from the Gulf Stream by a ridge of warmer water along the shelf break.The intrusions resulted in increased stability in shelf waters with vertical temperature gradients as high as 10°C m⁻¹. The potential energy in the stratified shelf waters typically ranged from 1000 to 2000 J m⁻² that would require 2 to 4 mW m⁻² to mix. However, since only 0.1 to 1.0mW m⁻² was available from wind and tidal mixing, the water column stayed stratified in most cases.The amount of nitrate transported onto the shelf was determined by two methods: direct observation by synoptic cruises and transport measurements using current meter arrays. Both methods gave similar results with about 18,000 tons nitrogen in the large June/July intrusion. On a seasonal basis, 40,000 tons of nitrogen could be advected into shelf waters which could result in 200,000 to 400,000 tons carbon production.     

Effect of channel bifurcation on residual estuarine circulation: Winyah Bay, South Carolina

The residual circulation pattern of Winyah Bay, the fourth largest estuary on the eastern coast of the US, is examined using stationary and shipborne current measurements during periods of low freshwater discharge. The estuary has a complex morphology with a single channel and narrow banks at the river entrance and the bay mouth, and a bifurcated channel system (main and western channels, respectively) in the middle part that appears to affect the residual circulation.Overall, the upper (single channel morphology) and middle (dual-channel morphology) parts of the estuary exhibit a baroclinic residual circulation. The presence of bifurcated channels in the middle part of the estuary modifies the typical gravitational circulation. The near-bed landward-directed residual flow is stronger in the deeper main channel than the shallower western channel. This is the result of the fact that the magnitude of residual flow scales with the water depth of the channel and it is also influenced by the opposing patterns of channel alignment in the northern and southern junctions. Analytical modeling confirms that the observed residual currents in the upper and middle estuary are density-induced. In the lower estuary, residual flow is directed seaward throughout the water column of the channel while in the adjacent shoals the residual flow is directed landward, suggesting that in contrast to the upper and middle estuary, the residual flow near the mouth is barotropic, controlled by the tides and the channel-bank morphology.     

苏北辐射沙洲区间流系分布格局及对大气强迫力的响应

苏北辐射沙洲海域由10余条主沙脊和10余条主水道组成,其沙脊群间水动力的消长决定了沙洲的生成、发展及消亡,形成了滩槽相间、水道交错的独特地貌。黄海旋转潮波与东海前进潮波交汇于沙洲中心弶港,在沙洲外围诸多流系如黄海沿岸流、苏北沿岸水和长江冲淡水等影响下,又受复杂地形和大气强迫对浅水作用的影响,沙洲间余环流结构呈现4种环流结构迥异的特征。本文利用2006-2012年间8次共23站一年四季、涵盖主要沙脊和水道间准同步调查数据,以及沙洲南部4站长达1个月以上连续观测的ADCP资料,结合吕四和洋口港海洋站气象水文数据,分析了沙洲间余流四季输运分布格局,并重点讨论和分析了沙洲南部余流与风应力的响应关系。     

Fish fauna recovery in a newly re-flooded Mediterranean coastal lagoon

Drana Lagoon, located at the NW site of Evros River Delta, was drained in 1987 and re-flooded in 2004 within the framework of an integrated wetland restoration project. This study presents the results of a monitoring program of the lagoon's oceanographic, water quality and fish fauna characteristics, during the pre- and post-restoration period. Results depict the presence of high salinity water (up to 41) due to seawater intrusion, strong evaporation in its interior and inadequate freshwater inflows. Overall, nutrient levels were low depicting local changes. Tidal variability at the mouth was approximately 0.2 m, producing high velocity tidal currents (up to 0.75 m/s). Eleven fish fauna species were collected; seven species were caught in both the inlet channel and the lagoon during the pre-restoration period and nine species in the post-restoration period. Atherina boyeri (37.6%) and Pomatoschistus marmoratus (31.7%) dominated the lagoon during the post-restoration period. Most of the A. boyeri specimens (88.5%) were caught inside the lagoon, while P. marmoratus had an almost equal distribution in the inlet channel and the lagoon (56.3% and 43.7% respectively). The presence of species of the Mugilidae family (5.2% total average catches after lagoon re-flooding) was mainly in the inlet channel (12.6% of the average catches) and not inside the lagoon (only 1.3% of the average catches). The small number of fish species inhabiting the lagoon might be the result of the recent restoration or it could be related with the increased water flow observed at the lagoon mouth during the flood and ebb tidal phases, and also in the presence of a smooth bank in the concrete waterspout that connects the entrance channel with the lagoon. The limited presence of the Mugilidae juveniles inside the lagoon could be related to the prevailing tidal inlet dynamics (i.e. strong ebb flow at lagoon inlet), thus preventing the species to enter the lagoon. In order to restore the lagoon environment, careful and gradual steps should be undertaken under the basis of continuous monitoring of hydrologic, environmental and fisheries system's status.     

Distribution and abundance of the Pacific sardine (Sardinops sagax) in the Gulf of California and their relation with the environment

In 1989–90 the small pelagic fishery of the Gulf of California began to show a very marked decline in the catch of its main component, the Pacific sardine (Sardinops sagax). The catch plummeted from 292,000 t in 1988–89 to 7000 t in 1991–92 and 1992–93. This caused a serious economic crisis in the local fishery fleet and industry, and resulted in the loss of 3000 jobs. In 1993–94 the fishery showed signs of recovery as the abundance of the Pacific sardine began to recover. The catch improved to 128,000 t in 1993–94 and further to 215,000 t in 1996–97. In trying to understand this great variability, we proposed the hypothesis that the distribution and the abundance of the Pacific sardine of the Gulf of California is determined by the wind patterns (upwelling) and the sea surface temperature. The results of analyzing data from 25 cruises showed the period of low relative abundance between 1990 and 1993 and one of high abundance between 1993 and 1996. The range of the sardine's distribution expanded as its abundance increased and contracted when abundances were low. The relationship between the abundances of the sardine and environmental variables proved to nonlinear and bell-shaped. The adjusted pattern explained 78.8% of the variability of the sardine abundance. The highest abundance are produced by moderate upwelling (13–18 m³s⁻¹ per 10 m of coastline) and sea surface temperatures of between 19°C and 25°C.     

长江口北槽一期工程后滩槽沉积物分布特征及其影响因素

根据2000年7月和2001年5—6月份长江口北槽航道及两侧滩地进行的沉积物采样分析结果,对长江口深水航道一期工程实施后的滩槽泥沙交换情况以及在自然与工程双重影响下的沉积物分布情况进行了较为详细的讨论。长江口深水航道工程的实施,影响了长江口尤其是北槽及两侧滩地的水沙条件和沉积物分布。强劲的径流和潮流作用和风浪作用造成航槽及两侧滩地的冲淤转换及沉积物分布的变化;深水航道治理工程的实施使工程段内航槽泥沙粒径粗化,两侧滩地和工程段下游泥沙中值粒径变细,这反映了在工程实施后滩槽泥沙交换的变化。     

Mean water level setup/setdown in the inlet-lagoon system induced by tidal action-a case study of Xincun Inlet, Hainan Island in China

With the tides propagating from the open sea to the lagoon, the mean water level （MWL） in the inlet and lagoon becomes different from that at the open sea, and a setup/setdown is generated. The change of MWL （setup/setdown） in the system imposes a great impact on regulating the development of tidal marshes, on determining the long-term water level for harbor maintenance, on the planning for the water front development with the flood control for the possible inundation, and on the interpretation of the historical sea level change when using tidal marsh peat deposits in the lagoon as the indicator for open sea＇ s sea level. In this case study on the mechanisms which control the setup/setdown in Xincun Inlet, Hainan in China, the 2-D barotropic mode of Eulerian - Lagrangian CIRCulation （ELCIRC） model was utilized. After model calibration and verification, a series of numerical experiments were conducted to examine the effects of bottom friction and advection terms, wetting and drying of intertidal areas, bathymetry and boundary conditions on the setup/setdown in the system. The modeling results show that setup occurs over the inlet and lagoon areas with an order of one tenth of the tide range at the entrance. The larger the bottom friction is, a larger setup is generated. Without the advection term, the setup is reduced clue to a decrease of water level gradient to compensate for the disappearance of the advection term. Even without overtides, a setup can still be developed in the system. Sea level rise and dredging in the inlet and tidal channel can cause a decrease of setup in the system, whereas shoaling of the system can increase the setup. The uniqueness of the Xincun Inlet with respect to MWL change is that there is no evident setdown in the inlet, which can be attributed to the complex geometry and bathymetry associated with the inlet system.     

Non-hydrostatic modelling of regular wave transformation and current circulation in an idealized reef-lagoon-channel system

The wave-induced setup and circulation in a two dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system is investigated by a non-hydrostatic model. The simulated results agree well with observations from the laboratory experiments, revealing that the model is valid in simulating wave transformation and currents over reefs. The effects of incident wave height, period, and reef flat water depth on the mean sea level and wave-driven currents are examined. Results show that the distributions of mean sea level and current velocities on the reef flat adjacent to the channel vary significantly from those in the area close to the side walls. From the wave averaged current field, an obvious alongshore flux flowing from the reef flat to the channel is captured. The flux from the reef flat composes the second source of the offshore rip current, while the first source is from the lagoon. A detailed momentum balance analysis shows that the alongshore current is mainly induced by the pressure gradient between the reef flat and the channel. In the lagoon, the momentum balances are between the pressure and radiation stress gradient, which drives flow towards the channel. Along the channel, the offshore current is mainly driven by the pressure gradient.