台风期间港湾海岸湿地侵蚀、淤积的环境动力学机制初探 --以福建罗源湾为例

为了探讨港湾海岸湿地在台风期间发生冲淤变化的过程和机制,利用流速仪观测了台风“凤凰”过境期间福建罗源湾海岸湿地（包括盐沼中下部和光滩）的环境动力过程。结果表明,台风登陆期间盐沼中下部和光滩的滩面淹没时间增长约2 h,近底层流速平均值变化很小,但流速波动变化幅度很大,底部切应力显著增大,滩面发生侵蚀;台风登陆后,随着风浪作用的减弱,流速波动显著减小,底部切应力逐渐减小,悬沙发生沉降,滩面表现为淤积。台风期间的滩面侵蚀、淤积主要受底部切应力的控制。     

Quaternary evolution of the Abu Quir bay,Egypt

The Pleistocene/Holocene history of Abu Quir bay and the adjacent shoreline has been studied using textural, petrological and geotechnical information obtained from 33 boreholes. The sedimentary vertical sequence is as follows reading from bottom to top: Late Pleistocene shelf sand and stiff mud, Late Pleistocene/Holocene transgressive sand, Holocene calcareous shelf mud, Holocene nearshore sand, prodelta mud, delta plain lagoonal and marsh mud, delta front mud and sand and coastal sand of beach and dunes. These units are produced as a response to shoreline fluctuation, resulting from a wide variety of deltaic and shelf environments. The study identifies delta lobes of the former Canopic branch which was located in the western part of the bay.     

Sediment characteristics in the North Branch of the Yangtze Estuary based on radioisotope tracers

Nuclide-specific activity and sediment grain size were analyzed at locations along the North Branch of the Yangtze (Changjiang) Estuary. The spatial distributions of various radioisotopes are presented, along with the sources and applications of these nuclides for studies of the aquatic environment. The specific activities of sediment radionuclides in the North Branch increase toward the ocean, indicating that the sediment is transported from the downstream side of the estuary into the North Branch. The ²²⁶Ra/²²⁸Ra ratio agrees well with the observed results and can be used to identify trends in erosion and accretion in the North Branch.     

Evaluation of future land-use planning initiatives to shoreline stability of Egypt’s northern Nile delta

An analysis of beach morphodynamics and relative vulnerability to erosion processes and sea inundation within the Nile delta’s lower coastal plain was performed as a basis for evaluation of future planning initiatives undertaken by the National Centre for Planning State Land Uses (NCPSLU). The conceptual management plans incorporate a variety of land-use plans including residential, recreational, industrial, agricultural, harboring, fish farming, and placer sand mining. Appropriateness of shores fronting the planned land uses is assessed in the present study by applying the Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) approach, which depends primarily on a variety of variables that affect beach stability of the proposed plans. These variables are prominent morphologic features, shoreline erosion or accretion rates, sea-level rise, beach type (dissipative, reflective, or rhythmic bar), and oceanographic conditions (tidal range and mean wave height). Results disclosed that not all of the examined delta coastlines are equally vulnerable to beach erosion (ranging from relatively low to highly susceptible). However, the most serious threat is that the relatively stable coastlines lying close to nodal points are likely to be affected by erosion due to net sediment transport reversals heading eastward or westward which eventually may require remedial protection. Future planning of the unprotected highly vulnerable and low-elevated subsiding zones, such as Manzala lagoon barrier, requires effective mitigation measures. Quarrying of Abu Khashaba beach, as an example, for mineral mining placers (at Abu Khashaba) and other fish farming applications (possibly at Burullus lagoon barrier) is considered as a risk and is to be avoided as it accelerates eroding the natural protective barrier that fronts the Burullus lagoon.     

Beach and nearshore morphodynamic changes of the Tabarka coast,Northwest of Tunisia

Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics.     

An analysis of coastal erosion in the tropical rapid accretion delta of the Red River, Vietnam

The largest plain in the North Vietnam has formed by the redundant sediment of the Red River system. Sediment supply is not equally distributed, causing erosion in some places. The paper analyzes the evolvement and physical mechanism of the erosion. The overlay of five recent topographical maps (1930, 1965, 1985, 1995, and 2001) shows that sediment redundantly deposits at some big river mouths (Ba Lat, Lach, and Day), leading to rapid accretion (up to 100 m/y). Typical mechanism of delta propagation is forming and connecting sand bars in front of the mouths. Erosion coasts are distributed either between the river mouths (Hai Hau) or nearby them (Giao Long, Giao Phong, and Nghia Phuc). The evolvement of erosion is caused by wave-induced longshore southwestward sediment transport. Meanwhile sediment from the river mouths is not directed to deposit nearshore. The development of sand bars can intensively reduce the erosion rate nearby river mouths. Erosion in Hai Hau is accelerated by sea level rise and upstream dams. Sea dike stability is seriously threatened by erosion-induced lowering of beach profiles, sea level rise, typhoon, and storm surge.     

The prehistory and palaeogeography of the great Indian desert : Bridget Allchin, Andrew Goudie, and Karunakara Hegde. Academic Press, London/New York/San Francisco, 1978, 370 pp., 73 figs., 85 tables, 12 plates. Bibliography, Index, £25/-, U.S. $48.90

Seismic reflection profiles (3.5 kHz) were obtained along more than 3500 km of shiptrack in Lake Superior within the last 2 yr. The acoustic character of profiles is categorized as: (I) a single, strong reflector at the lake floor, (II) a thick, acoustically transparent layer overlying a strong reflector, and (III) relatively thick sediment with internal acoustic reflectors. These profiles, in conjunction with sediment cores from the area, reveal that varved glacial-lacustrine sediment settled out preferentially in a trough between Isle Royale and the north shore, and to a lesser extent in other topographic depressions; bottom currents generated by storm waves prevent clay accumulation on till or bedrock in the open lake wherever the bottom is shallower than 100 m; bottom currents prevent deposition or erode bottom sediment in certain deep-water (> 200 m) valleys; and lacustrine sediment is disturbed by creep or slumping off Grand Portage, Minnesota, and by other processes such as dewatering in many other areas. These factors complicate sedimentation in Lake Superior, and must be considered when investigating any aspect of the lake sediment.     

Environmental impacts of Baltim and Ras El Bar shore-parallel breakwater systems on the Nile delta littoral zone,Egypt

This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.     

Accretion and canal impacts in a rapidly subsiding wetland II. Feldspar marker horizon technique

Recent (6–12 month) marsh sediment accretion and accumulation rates were measured with feldspar marker horizons in the vicinity of natural waterways and man-made canals with spoil banks in the rapidly subsiding environment of coastal Louisiana. Annual accretion rates in aSpartina alterniflora salt marsh in the Mississippi deltaic plain averaged 6 mm in marsh adjacent to canals compared to 10 mm in marsh adjacent to natural waterways. The rates, however, were not statistically significantly different. The average rate of sediment accretion in the same salt marsh region for a transect perpendicular to a canal (13 mm yr^?1) was significantly greater than the rate measured for a transect perpendicular to a natural waterway (7 mm yr^?1). Measurements of soil bulk density and organic matter content from the two transects were also different. This spatial variability in accretion rates is probably related to (1) spoil bank influences on local hydrology; and (2) a locally high rate of sediment input from lateral erosion associated with pond enlargement. In a brackishSpartina patens marsh on Louisiana’s Chenier plain, vertical accretion rates were the same along natural and canal waterways (3–4 mm yr^?1) in a hydrologically restricted marsh region. However, the accretion rates for both waterways were significantly lower than the rates along a nonhydrologically restricted natural waterway nearby (11 mm yr^?1). The vertical accretion of matter displayed semi-annual differences in the brackish marsh environment.     

Subduction erosion and accretion in the Solomon Sea region

The Solomon Sea region is an area of intense tectonic activity characterized by structural complexity, a high level of seismicity and volcanism, and rapid evolution of plate boundaries. There is little accretion in the eastern New Britain Trench. Accretion gradually increases westward with thick accretion in the western New Britain Trench and in the Trobriand Subduction System. The thick accretion in the western part of the New Britain Trench may be a result of collision from the north of Finisterre-Huon block with New Guinea mainland. The present boundary of the collision is along the Ram-Markham fault. Deformation structures and present day seismicity suggest that the northern block is under compression.

Accretion has occurred in the sediment filled trenches in the Solomon Sea. The scale of the accretionary wedge depends on the amount of trench-fill sediment available. It is unlikely that there is no sediment supply to the eastern part of the New Britain Trench where no accretion is observed and subduction erosion may be occurring. There are two possible mechanisms for subduction erosion of sediment; either a rapid rate of subduction relative to the supply of sediment inhibiting sediment accumulation in the trench; or horizontal tensional force superimposed on both the forearc and backarc regions of the arc. Seafloor spreading in both the Manus and Woodlark basins is fan-like with nearby poles in the western margins of the basins. This may be a reflection of a horizontally compressional field in the western part and a tensional field in the eastern part of the Solomon Sea. Therefore it is possible to conclude that the consumption of sediment in the eastern New Britain Trench is related to the horizontal tensional field superimposed on both the forearc and backarc regions of the subduction system.

Imbricated thrust and overthrust faults in the western New Britain Trench and Trobriand Trough are not linear over long distance, but form wavy patterns in blocks with unit distance of approximately 10 km.     

Evaluation of criteria for predicting erosion and accretion on an estuarine sand beach, Delaware Bay, Jew Jersey

Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore, gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events. Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile.     

Wind waves and sediment transport regime off the south-central Kerala coast,India

Wind waves in the innershelf of the south-central Kerala coast, south-west India were measured at four locations during different seasons. Simultaneously, numerical models were developed to simulate the wave and sediment transport regime of the innershelf. Strong monsoonal influence is seen in the wave characteristics with greater amplitudes, lower periods and switch-over from SW to SWW–W direction. The net annual longshore sediment transport is southerly in the innershelf and northerly in the surf zone. These counter-directional transports are linked by seasonally reversing the cross-shore transports. In the locations where the transports in the longshore and cross-shore directions are balanced, stable beaches prevail. Erosion/accretion tendency prevails in locations where these transports are not balanced. The southern and northern parts of the coast where onshore transports are predominant could be accreting zones. The erosion/accretion pattern deduced from the sediment transport model corresponds well with the long-term erosion/accretion trend for this coast.     

潮滩表层沉积物磁性特征的季节性变化及其对沉积动力作用的响应:以杭州湾北岸为例

根据2004年9月—2005年8月杭州湾北岸中潮滩固定观测点重复采集的表层沉积物的磁学参数和粒度分析,探讨了研究区域潮滩沉积物磁学性质的季节性变化及其对沉积动力的响应。 结果表明, 该观测点潮滩沉积物磁学参数存在显著的月际变化,2004年12月底—2005年5月上旬的半年中,SIRM、χARM、χfd%、χARM/χ、χARM/SIRM等参数出现高值,指示了沉积物中含有较多的细晶粒亚铁磁性矿物,对应于潮滩淤积时段和较细的沉积物粒级组成,其余各月上述磁参数值较低,对应于潮滩沉积物较粗的侵蚀期。上述结果表明,沉积物的磁性特征可以很好地反映潮滩冲淤过程中沉积动力的变化。     

江苏中部沿海潮滩对台风暴潮的响应

通过近年来对江苏沿海有影响的台风暴潮作用前后的滩面高程观测,结合台风浪资料分析,探究了江苏中部沿海潮滩对风暴潮的响应过程。结果显示:潮滩剖面在风暴潮期间呈现"低滩侵蚀、沿岸输运、高滩稳定",明显区别于沙质海岸在台风浪作用下"高滩侵蚀、离岸输运、低滩淤积"的演变特征。应用Delft3D平面二维水沙动力数学模型,模拟了正常天气和台风浪情况下的滩面演变,从动力学角度解释了潮滩间不同区域演变特征差异的原因,论证了台风浪对地貌演变的短历时"插曲式"作用,阐明了涨潮优势流是风暴侵蚀后泥沙沿岸向输运的主控因子。     

Late-glacial and postglacial sedimentation in Lake Superior based on seismic-reflection profiles

Seismic reflection profiles (3.5 kHz) were obtained along more than 3500 km of shiptrack in Lake Superior within the last 2 yr. The acoustic character of profiles is categorized as: (I) a single, strong reflector at the lake floor, (II) a thick, acoustically transparent layer overlying a strong reflector, and (III) relatively thick sediment with internal acoustic reflectors. These profiles, in conjunction with sediment cores from the area, reveal that varved glacial-lacustrine sediment settled out preferentially in a trough between Isle Royale and the north shore, and to a lesser extent in other topographic depressions; bottom currents generated by storm waves prevent clay accumulation on till or bedrock in the open lake wherever the bottom is shallower than 100 m; bottom currents prevent deposition or erode bottom sediment in certain deep-water (> 200 m) valleys; and lacustrine sediment is disturbed by creep or slumping off Grand Portage, Minnesota, and by other processes such as dewatering in many other areas. These factors complicate sedimentation in Lake Superior, and must be considered when investigating any aspect of the lake sediment.     

黄土丘陵区堆积体边坡对上方来水的侵蚀响应

为探明上方来水类型对工程堆积体高陡边坡下部冲刷侵蚀的定量影响,以神府高速公路沿线典型工程堆积体陡坡坡面(36°)为例,设计4种上方来水类型,通过野外放水冲刷试验分析了不同上方来水类型下堆积体坡面的径流侵蚀输沙过程.结果表明:①上方来水类型对堆积体坡面下部的产流影响较小,却干扰了坡面侵蚀产沙过程,造成土壤流失量增加;②径流深、单宽径流侵蚀力和水流功率均可以较好地预测堆积体边坡下部输沙模数的变化;③单宽径流侵蚀功率可以作为表征坡面尺度次径流事件中径流侵蚀力变化的指标.研究结果可为工程堆积体土壤侵蚀强度评价、侵蚀模型建立及新增水土流失防治提供参考.     

Some aspects of the biology and sedimentology of laminated algal mats from mannar lagoon,Northwest Ceylon

Laminated blue-green algal mats are forming in the intertidal zone of a clastic (non-carbonate), tropical, lagoonal tidal-flat in northwest Ceylon. On the basis of their surface morphology three distinct mat zones are recognised. From the high-water mark seawards these are: (1) a smooth rounded-mat zone with discrete structures; (2) a crinkled- and blistered-mat zone; and (3) a smooth flat-mat zone without any perceptible relief. These mats are formed by the trapping and binding of sediment particles on to a sticky and mucilaginous complex of algal filaments.The morphology and distribution of these mats appear to be controlled by the frequency and duration of their exposure, strength of tidal-current velocities and the rates of bottom sediment movement. The flat zone is characterised by tidal-current velocities of 10–15 cm/sec, greater rates of traction movement and twice daily tidal flooding. The crinkled zone is partly or completely exposed during neap tides, the rate of bottom sediment movement is less than in the flat zone and the tidal-current velocities vary from 6–12 cm/sec. The rounded-mat zone is flooded only during high-water spring tide, with no tidal exchange during the neap tidal phase, but there is a continuous water cover forming a tidal pool. Here the rate of bottom sediment movement is negligible and the tidal-current velocities vary from 1–10 cm/sec. The rounded—elliptical mat forms are elongated in the direction of tidal flow and with decreasing tidal velocities they tend to assume a more rounded shape. All three zones are characterized by laminations produced by the alternation of thick sediment-rich and thin algal-rich layers. They show an accretion rate of 5–15 mm/week. The above features indicate that they are potentially very useful environmental indicators.     

Sediment Accretion in Tidal Freshwater Forests and Oligohaline Marshes of the Waccamaw and Savannah Rivers,USA

Sediment accretion was measured at four sites in varying stages of forest-to-marsh succession along a fresh-to-oligohaline gradient on the Waccamaw River and its tributary Turkey Creek (Coastal Plain watersheds, South Carolina) and the Savannah River (Piedmont watershed, South Carolina and Georgia). Sites included tidal freshwater forests, moderately salt-impacted forests at the freshwater–oligohaline transition, highly salt-impacted forests, and oligohaline marshes. Sediment accretion was measured by use of feldspar marker pads for 2.5 year; accessory information on wetland inundation, canopy litterfall, herbaceous production, and soil characteristics were also collected. Sediment accretion ranged from 4.5 mm year^?1 at moderately salt-impacted forest on the Savannah River to 19.1 mm year^?1 at its relict, highly salt-impacted forest downstream. Oligohaline marsh sediment accretion was 1.5–2.5 times greater than in tidal freshwater forests. Overall, there was no significant difference in accretion rate between rivers with contrasting sediment loads. Accretion was significantly higher in hollows than on hummocks in tidal freshwater forests. Organic sediment accretion was similar to autochthonous litter production at all sites, but inorganic sediment constituted the majority of accretion at both marshes and the Savannah River highly salt-impacted forest. A strong correlation between inorganic sediment accumulation and autochthonous litter production indicated a positive feedback between herbaceous plant production and allochthonous sediment deposition. The similarity in rates of sediment accretion and sea level rise in tidal freshwater forests indicates that these habitats may become permanently inundated if the rate of sea level rise increases.     

Morphological response of tidal marshes,flats and channels of the Outer Yangtze River mouth to a major storm

Systematic morphological changes of the coastline of the outer Yangtze River mouth in response to storms versus calm weather were documented by daily surveys of tidal marshes and flats between April 1999 and May 2001 and by boat surveys offshore during this and earlier periods. The largest single event during 1999 to 2001 was Typhoon Paibaian, which eroded the unvegetated tidal flat and lower marsh and led to accretion on the middle-to-upper marsh and in the subtidal channel. The greatest erosion of 21 cm occurred at the border between the marsh and the unvegetated flat due to the landward retreat of the marsh edge during the storm. Strong waves on the flats increased suspended sediment concentration by 10–20 times. On the upper marsh, where the frequency of submergence by astronomical tides is only 3%, Typhoon Paibian led to 4 cm of accretion, accounting for 57% of the net accretion observed over the 2-yr study. Typhoon Paibian led to 4 cm of accretion, accounting for 57% of the net accretion observed over the 2-yr study. Typhoon Paibian and other large storms in the 1990s caused over 50 cm of accretion along the deep axis of the river mouth outlet channel. During calm weather, when hydrodynamic energy was dominated by tides, deposition was centered on the unvegetated flats and lower, marsh with little deposition on the high marsh and erosion in the subtidal channel. Depositional recovery of the tidal flat from typhoon-induced erosion took only several days, whereas recovery of the subtidal channel by erosion took several weeks. A conceptual model for the morphological responses of tidal marshes, flats, and subtidal channels to storms and calm weather is proposed such that sediment continually moves from regions of highest near-bed energy towards areas of lower energy.