中国海岸侵蚀述要

中国近代海岸侵蚀自50年代末期日渐明显,70年代末期加剧。目前约有70％的沙质海岸和大部分开敞的粉砂淤泥质海岸遭受侵蚀。人工挖沙和河流输沙减少是侵蚀发生的主要原因。海岸侵蚀已危及沿岸房舍、道路、海岸工程、旅游资源。     

Vulnerability of Kuwait coast to sea level rise

Assessing coastal vulnerability to sea level rise (SLR) at local and regional scales is a fundamental step for designing successful long-term coastal management plans. This study was thus designed to assess Kuwait coastal vulnerability to SLR at four scenarios (.5, 1, 1.5 and 2 m). Potential inundated areas and the number of people at risk were estimated based on these SLR scenarios. A coastal vulnerability index (CVI) map of Kuwait was then computed based on the lowest scenario using eight parameters: elevation, coastal slope, geomorphology, distance to 20-m isobath, population, land use, cultural heritage and transportation. The geographic distribution of inundated areas at an SLR of .5 m revealed that the northern islands of Kuwait and coastal areas along Kuwait Bay would be highly impacted, whereas the coastal area near Shuaibah Port was the most influenced among the southern coasts. Most of the coastal area exhibited a moderate vulnerability to SLR, especially the northern islands. This study presented an initial vulnerability assessment for Kuwait coasts to SLR, which can be extended with more variables. The integrated remote sensing and geographic information system methodology demonstrated in this study can be applied in similar studies elsewhere.     

The formation and evolution of the barrier islands of Inhaca and Bazaruto, Mozambique

The barrier islands of Inhaca and Bazaruto are related to the extensive coastal dune system of the Mozambican coastal plain, south-east Africa. Optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating of key stratigraphic units indicates that accretion of sediment within these systems is episodic. Both islands appear to have been initiated as spits extending from structural offsets in the coastline. Superposition of significant quantities of sediment upon these spits during subsequent sea-level highstands formed the core of the islands, which were anchored and protected by beachrock and aeolianite formation. At least two distinct dune-building phases occurred during Marine Oxygen Isotope Stage (MIS) 5, tentatively attributed to marine transgressions during sub-stages 5e and 5c. Although some localized reactivation of dune surfaces occurred prior to the Holocene, large quantities of sediment were not deposited on either island during the low sea-levels associated with MIS 2. Significant dune-building and sediment reworking occurred immediately prior to and during the Holocene, though it is not clear whether these processes were continuous or episodic. Significant erosion of the eastern shoreline of Bazaruto suggests that it is far less stable than Inhaca and may suffer further large-scale erosion. A model is presented for the formation of barrier islands along the Mozambican coastal plain.     

Differences in vegetation characteristics with shoreline position on a tropical pocket beach

ABSTRACT

Composition and richness of coastal vegetation differs with distance from the water and sheltering by topography. Transition from pioneer beach plants to mature forests is expected to be narrow on low wave energy coasts with a tropical climate favorable to vegetation growth. The goal of this paper is to determine whether vegetation on the beach and foredune will be denser and have a greater number of species and more woody shrubs near the water as wave and wind stresses diminish because of favorable shoreline orientation within a pocket beach. Field data on beach width, beach mobility, dune height, vegetation species, vegetation height and percent vegetation cover were collected in Puerto Rico along six cross-shore transects. Beaches are more stable at transects in the lee of an eolianite barrier and a tombolo. The vegetation gradient there is compressed, with denser, taller, more diverse vegetation and more tree species close to the waterline than at more exposed sites. The lack of mobility of the beaches and dunes and lack of geomorphically significant disturbance events is in contrast to the conspicuous feedbacks between overwash, topography, and vegetation on exposed mid-latitude coasts, revealing the need for more study of low-energy beach environments.     

Where Have All the Beaches Gone? Coastal Erosion In The Tropics

From a physical geography perspective, tropical coasts are characterised by coral reefs, mangroves and carbonate beaches on atolls and low reef islands. They face threats not only from sea level rise, but also from human activities that destroy mangroves, degrade coral reefs and accelerate beach erosion. Physical conditions in the tropics are suitable for the ideal tourist beach. Conceptually, the tourist coast can be considered as the integration of a physical system (the coast) and a human system (tourism). Studies have been carried out on various types of tourist coasts in Southeast Asia. For many atoll island states, sea level rise is more than just a threat to their tourism; it also determines their survival. In recent years, assessments of their vulnerability and adaptation have favoured a more integrative approach of physical and human sciences. Hopefully, this should result in a better analytical tropical geography that could play an important role in reducing coastal erosion and assist the small island states.     

Spatio-temporal analysis of decadal-scale patterns in barrier island response to storms: Perdido Key,NW Florida

The ability to accurately quantify shoreline variability is essential in order to establish aggressive mitigation strategies, based on recent global climate change projections. This investigation employed a suite of coastal data (topographic maps, aerial photography, satellite imagery and lidar) to establish decadal trends of shoreline movement along Perdido Key, a sandy barrier island off Florida’s northwest coast. The technique used to detect morphologic change with time was a recently developed tool, Analyzing Moving Boundaries Using R. This innovative methodology improves our understanding of the evolution of coastal systems by modeling shoreline variance using a method that is sensitive to shoreline shape. Results show that the barrier shoreline is a highly dynamic feature with distinct zones of erosion and accretion that are pervasive over time. In general, the island is displaying a mechanism of rotational instability with the eastern half retreating, and the western portion advancing. The inflection point, around which this rotational shifting is taking place, lies at the center of a Pleistocene headland located along the island’s midpoint. The results of this study suggest that coastal evolution along the island may be meta-stable, with trends in shoreline variance corresponding mainly to discrete storm events in time.     

The end of the Pacific? Effects of sea level rise on Pacific Island livelihoods

As in the past, most Pacific Island people live today along island coasts and subsist largely on foods available both onshore and offshore. On at least two occasions in the 3500 years that Pacific Islands have been settled, sea level changes affected coastal bioproductivity to the extent that island societies were transformed in consequence. Over the past 200 years, sea level has been rising along most Pacific Island coasts causing loss of productive land through direct inundation (flooding), shoreline erosion and groundwater salinization. Responses have been largely uninformed, many unsuccessful. By the year 2100, sea level may be 1.2 m higher than today. Together with other climate‐linked changes and unsustainable human pressures on coastal zones, this will pose huge challenges for livelihoods. There is an urgent need for effective and sustainable adaptation of livelihoods to prepare for future sea level rise in the Pacific Islands region. There are also lessons to be learned from past failures, including the need for adaptive solutions that are environmentally and culturally appropriate, and those which appropriate decision makers are empowered to design and implement. Around the middle of the twenty‐first century, traditional coastal livelihoods are likely to be difficult to sustain, so people in the region will need alternative food production systems. Within the next 20–30 years, it is likely that many coastal settlements will need to be relocated, partly or wholly. There are advantages in anticipating these needs and planning for them sooner rather than later. In many ways, the historical and modern Pacific will end within the next few decades. There will be fundamental irreversible changes in island geography, settlement patterns, subsistence systems, societies and economic development, forced by sea level rise and other factors.     

Shore platform development around Lord Howe Island, southwest Pacific

This paper describes the morphology of near-horizontal basalt and calcarenite shore platforms around Lord Howe Island as well as the lithological and process environment in which they occur. The morphology of platforms around the island is highly varied. For instance, they occur at a wide range of elevations between low-tide level and several metres above the highest tides, and their width ranges between just a few metres to over 100 m. However, common to most platforms is that they have near-horizontal surfaces that terminate abruptly in a steep scarp at their seaward edge. Correlations indicate that the variability in platform elevation and width is attributable to variability in key parameters of erosion, such as rock resistance and shoreline water depth. Whereas wider platforms occur in rocks of lesser resistance, platform elevation is shown to increase both as rock resistance and the depth of water at the shoreline increases. Wave exposure has a significant control on platform width in some instances, but an over-arching relationship was not detected. Most platforms around the island appear to have developed over the Holocene and a conceptual model is proposed to account for the varied morphology of platforms that have developed over this period. Resistant plunging cliffs occur along about 18% of the rocky coastline of Lord Howe Island and represent the starting point for the model. Where cliffs have yielded to wave erosion platforms have been initiated at an elevation controlled predominantly by rock resistance and shoreline water depth. At Lord Howe Island narrow platforms up to about 20 m wide in exposed locations generally occur about 4 to 6 m above high tide level, and have apparently been subject to very infrequent erosion. Shore platforms about 20 to 40 m wide have generally formed in less resistant rocks, are somewhat lower at about 2 to 3 m above high tide level, and have been subject to more frequent erosion over the Holocene. Most basalt platforms around the island fall within these first two categories, but there are some instances of platforms about 50 m wide. These platforms have formed in rocks of comparatively low resistance and are relatively low in elevation occurring close to the level of high tide. An interesting feature of some of these wide platforms is that, unlike the morphology of narrower platforms, raised ramparts sometimes occur on their outer edge.     

沙丘风蚀坑的形态及动力过程的研究进展

随着风沙活动对全球变化的响应研究不断深入,沙质海岸、湖岸和半干旱区草原环境中不同程度植被覆盖沙丘及其风蚀坑的动态得到了广泛的重视。本文对沙丘风蚀坑的形态及动力学特征的研究成果作了初步总结,着重阐述了沙丘风蚀坑内气流场、沙粒输移和蚀积变化。最后,提出了沙丘风蚀坑研究巾存在的问题和主要研究趋势。     

An empirical–conceptual gully evolution model for channelled sea cliffs

Incised coastal channels are a specific form of incised channel that are found in locations where stream channels flowing to cliffed coasts have the excess energy required to cut down through the cliff to reach the outlet water body. The southern coast of the Isle of Wight, southern England, comprises soft cliffs that vary in height between 15 and 100 m and which are retreating at rates ≤ 1.5 m a^− 1, due to a combination of wave erosion and landslides. In several locations, river channels have cut through the cliffs to create deeply (≤ 45 m) incised gullies, known locally as ‘Chines’. The Chines are unusual in that their formation is associated with dynamic shoreline encroachment during a period of rising sea-level, whereas existing models of incised channel evolution emphasise the significance of base level lowering. This paper develops a conceptual model of Chine evolution by applying space for time substitution methods using empirical data gathered from Chine channel surveys and remotely sensed data. The model identifies a sequence of evolutionary stages, which are classified based on a suite of morphometric indices and associated processes. The extent to which individual Chines are in a state of growth or decay is estimated by determining the relative rates of shoreline retreat and knickpoint recession, the former via analysis of historical aerial images and the latter through the use of a stream power erosion model.     

海平面上升对长江三角洲和苏北滨海平原海岸侵蚀的可能影响

本区海岸现有30％的岸段为侵蚀海岸,海平面上升将使海岸侵蚀加剧。海平面上升因素在海岸侵蚀诸因素中的比重较国外同类研究结论偏小,这与本区海岸的特殊演变原因有关。海平面上升通过潮流、波浪和风暴潮作用增强,海岸潮滩和湿地损失,岸滩消浪和抗冲能力减小等途径引起海岸侵蚀加剧。其结果是,侵蚀岸段扩大,淤涨岸段减少甚至转为侵蚀,潮间带宽度变窄,坡度加大,从而使沿岸海堤等挡潮工程的标准要相应提高。     

Erosion and reorientation of the Sapodilla Cays,Mesoamerican Reef Belize from 1960 to 2012

The Sapodilla Cays Marine Reserve in southern Belize includes nine low-relief sand cays that were first surveyed in 1960. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct a 52-year history of the Sapodilla Cays (1960–2012) using a combination of historical topographic surveys, satellite imagery, and additional field data collection. Results suggest that the majority of islands are eroding with some islands having lost over 70% of their area, and many have become swash aligned, which suggests limited sediment availability. The proportion of area lost on each island is related to the width of the reef platform (to the 5?m isobaths) in the direction of the reef edge, while island area is dependent on the width of the reef platform in the direction of the resultant wind. This suggests that the width of the reef platform is a primary determinant of sediment supply between storms that tend to erode the eastern shoreline of the island through refraction along the reef edge. While storm erosion tends to be concentrated along the eastern shoreline through the loss of sediment offshore, alongshore transport to the lagoon shoreline, and the transfer of sediment to the interior of the island, net shoreline retreat is greatest along the lagoon, suggesting that the relatively small winter “northers” and a lack of sediment supply from the reef lagoon are responsible for the observed erosion. Extrapolations based on contemporary loss-rates suggest that the smallest cays will disappear by 2020, while the largest cays will begin to disappear by the end of century.     

Coastal hazard assessment and mapping in Northern Campania, Italy

In the Northern Campanian coastal zone, over 150 km long, three geomorphic units are recognised: (1) sandy beaches that are well developed in the northern area, where a prominent river mouth (Volturno River) is also present; (2) steep and rocky shores, often with gravelly beaches or debris cones at their base, are mainly diffuse in the southern area (Sorrentine Peninsula); and, lastly, (3) “techno coast”, shorelines stabilized with revetments and seawalls as well as former natural environments no longer clearly operational because of urbanization, as is visible in Naples and in the Vesuvian coast. Six primary hazards are considered in this investigation: shoreline erosion, riverine flooding, storms, landslides, seismicity and volcanism, and man-made structures. These hazards do not have a uniform distribution along this coast in terms of their frequency and intensity; moreover both their interaction and the intensive action of humans, often uncontrolled, makes it difficult to assess the overall coastal hazard. In this paper a semi-quantitative method with which to quantify, rank and map the distribution of hazard is applied along this particular stretch of coast. In such a stretch, previously characterized in terms of types and processes and compartmentalized into geomorphic units, the effect of individual hazards, based on their magnitude and recurrence, is evaluated. Dominant and subordinate hazards for each geomorphic unit are identified, assigning a rank that is also a weighting. Comparison of each weighting through an interaction matrix permits the calculation of a resultant, which is the overall hazard assessment and which can be expressed cartographically. The results obtained for a coastal zone with one of the highest pressures from urbanization in the world, help us to recognise that this approach could become a useful tool to aid decision-making regarding coastal land-use and planning.     

中国海岸带自然灾害与环境评估

本文论述了中国海岸带的分布和自然灾害发生的特点，并对其环境进行评估。分析指出，海岸带既是多种自然灾害频繁发生的地带，又是自然资源丰富、社会经济文化发达的地带。鉴于海岸带生态环境的脆弱性和继续恶化的趋势，今后应在掌握中国海岸带资源环境基本状况的基础上，对海岸带资源环境进行动态监测，预测未来海岸带资源环境发展趋势，从而增强中国社会、经济的可持续发展能力。     

1987—2017年海南岛海岸线变化特征遥感分析

利用海岸线、红树林和近海围塘养殖等多个遥感专题信息产品,从岸线年均变化速率、利用率和综合利用程度等方面综合分析了海南岛1987—2017年的海岸线变化特征,并通过典型岸线类型变化探讨了人类活动对海南岛海岸带资源的影响。分析发现：1）海岸线长度总体呈稳定增长趋势。由1987年的1 655 km增至2017年的1 890 km,其中自然岸线持续减少,人工岸线急剧增长。2）岸线类型多样性降低,倾向性明显;而岸线的利用程度不断提高,利用程度综合指数由1987年的237.34增加到2017年的285.03,人类活动对海岸线变迁的干扰作用越来越明显。3）陆海格局变化特征复杂,整体呈向海扩张的态势。多种人为因素共同作用是导致岸线不断变迁的主要原因,人工养殖塘的开发使红树林湿地遭到侵占,生物岸线减少,港口建设、近海人工岛建设等引起砂质岸线等自然岸线减少。     

An Innovative Method of Model Integration to Forecast Spatial Patterns of Shoreline Change: A Case Study of Nags Head,North Carolina*

Many coastal erosion models are designed to be used at transects or discrete points but they produce valid results only for locations that meet a set of well-defined criteria. Results obtained from these models are difficult to generalize, since adjoining areas may not meet these requirements. In this paper, a GIS-based methodology is described for combining the results from two two-dimensional coastal erosion models and a three-dimensional static inundation model to forecast the possible response of a coastline to several alternative sea level rise scenarios. These shoreline forecasts are unique in that they integrate results obtained from several different models and allow graphical representations of these alternative future shorelines to be produced. Coastal planners may use these integrated shoreline forecasts to assess the possible impact of sea level rise on a given region. To demonstrate this methodology a case study was conducted for Nags Head, North Carolina.     

海平面上升与海滩侵蚀

世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷。逐渐上升的海平面，降低了河流坡降而减少了入海沙量。因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏。海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大。这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动。如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩将损失现有面积的１３％─６６％。主要对策是海岸防护与海滩人工喂养。     

中国海岸风沙沉积记录的环境变化

海岸是陆、海、气相互作用的地带。海岸风沙沉积是这一特殊动力环境的产物,是研究海岸环境演变及海平面变化的良好信息载体。中国海岸主要存在3种风沙沉积,分别为“老红砂”、沙丘岩及海岸沙丘。本文通过比较已报道的风沙堆积的物质组成、地层变化等,进一步总结了海岸风沙沉积的特征;选择已开展绝对测年的沉积剖面,利用概率密度函数分析了风沙沉积年代的分布特征,考察了中国海岸风沙活动历史,结合其他气候记录,探讨了不同地质历史时期海岸风沙堆积的关键影响因素。结果表明：“老红砂”沉积主要记录了冰期-间冰期尺度的风沙活动,在120 ka BP前后、73—55 ka BP等时期,风沙活动主要与海平面下降时陆架提供的丰富沙源和强盛的冬季风有关;而在105 ka BP、80 ka BP前后,风沙活动与高海平面时期丰富的沙源或季风气候的季节性增强有关;55 ka BP以来风沙活动强度降低更多地反映了沉积记录保存环境的变化,末次冰期海岸风沙沉积大多分布在现代海面之下,并不代表实际的海岸风沙活动减弱。相比之下,海岸沙丘沉积所记录的风沙活动主要发生在近3 000 a,可能与中国海岸冬季风的增强有关。     

近30年来江苏省滨海湿地变化过程及其受围垦活动的影响

基于1985—2015年Landsat TM遥感影响数据,提取江苏省典型岸段滨海湿地信息,对滨海湿地类型、面积的变化过程进行研究,并分析了围垦活动对这一过程的影响。结果表明:围垦在近20年达到高峰期,连云港、盐城和南通岸段的滨海湿地在近30年间分别减少了53.15%、71.60%和71.40%。连云港岸段原生植被型湿地逐渐减少,茅草、芦苇湿地在2000年后完全消失;盐城岸段原生植被型湿地在1985—1995年间持续增加,且各植被类型比率趋于均衡,而在1995年后则转变为米草湿地占绝对优势;南通岸段湿地总面积在2000年后迅速下降,高比例的米草湿地是该岸段滨海湿地的主要特征,但到2015年几乎退化成纯光滩湿地。连云港岸段以海域围垦为主要特征,2005—2010年达到围垦高峰;盐城岸段则在1995—2000年的围垦高峰后,原生植被型湿地的围垦比率锐减,米草湿地的围垦比率增至90.51%;南通岸段以米草湿地围垦为主要特征,围垦强度在1985—2010年持续增加,2005年后米草湿地的围垦强度减小,海域围垦比例逐渐升高。     

应用人工神经网络识别闽南粤东沿海老红沙沉积

闽南、粤东沿海,断续分布着一种俗称"老红砂"的红色、棕红色半胶结的中细砂沉积物。近十多年来,对其成因和时代进行了较多研究。然而,关于它的成因,目前仍有争议,有的认为是属于一种近源的滨海相沉积,也有人认为是风成的。本文用经过华南沿海现代海岸风成沙和海滩沙样品训练的神经网络来识别闽南粤东沿海的老红砂。由这些海岸风沙和海滩沙的粒度参数、沉积物的各个粒级含量等作为输入,构成不同的神经网络的识别结果表明,大部分老红砂被神经网络判别为风沙沉积,同时也表明,粉沙/粘土的含量是判别沉积物是否为风沙搬运的有效指标。而单纯以沉积物各个粒级含量作为输入构成的网络无法用于沉积物的识别。