Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches

A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.     

Transmission and reflection of the Rossby waves in a stratified ocean with bottom topography

Transmission and reflection coefficients are calculated for Rossby waves incident on a bottom topography with constant slope in a continuously stratified ocean. The characteristics of the coefficients are interpreted in terms of the quasigeostrophic waves on the slope. In the parameter range where only the barotropic Rossby waves can propagate in the region outside the slope, the bottom trapped wave plays the same role as the topographic Rossby wave in a homogeneous ocean, and hence the transmission is weak unless phase matching takes place. When both of the barotropic and baroclinic Rossby waves can propagate outside the slope, the total transmission can be strong. The bottom trapped wave affects the transmission and reflection, and it leads to the possibility that the Rossby wave is transmitted as a mode different from the incident mode. When the number of the wavy modes on the slope is smaller than that of the Rossby wave modes outside the slope, strong reflection occurs.The results for an ocean with linear distribution of the squared Brunt-Väisälä frequency are compared to those in a uniformly stratified ocean. The weakening of the stratification near the bottom is almost equivalent to reducing the effect of the slope.     

Coastal trapped waves in a two-layer ocean: Wave properties when the density interface intersects a sloping bottom

Properties of coastal trapped waves when the pycnocline intersects a sloping bottom are studied using a two-layer model which has slopes in both layers. In this system there is an infinite discrete sequence of modes, and four different sorts of waves exist: the barotropic Kelvin wave, the upper shelf wave, the lower shelf wave and the internal Kelvin-type wave. They all propagate with the coast to their right in the Northern Hemisphere. The upper and lower shelf waves are due to the topographic-effect on the upper-layer and lower-layer slopes, respectively. Their motions are dominant in the respective layers being accompanied by significant interface elevations. The properties of the upper (lower) shelf wave are almost unaffected by the existence of a lower-layer (upper-layer) slope. The motion of the internal Kelvin-type wave is confined to the region around the line where the density interface intersects the bottom slope.The modes, except that with the fastest phase speed (the barotropic Kelvin wave), are assigned mode numbers in order of descending frequency. Characteristics of Mode 1 change with wavenumber; the upper shelf wave for small wavenumbers and the internal Kelvin-type wave for large wavenumbers (high frequencies). The higher modes of Mode 2 and above can be classified into the upper and lower shelf waves.     

Generation of internal waves in the region of a bottom ridge with continuously varying height

Internal waves generated by a barotropic wave impinging on a bottom ridge with continuously varying height are studied within the framework of the linear theory of long waves. We consider the case where the diurnal tide travels at an arbitrary angle to the axis of the ridge located in the area of a geostrophic flow caused by tilting of the free sea surface and the interface of a two-layer ocean. We study the dependences of the amplitudes of internal waves on the velocity of the geostrophic flow, the direction of propagation of the barotropic tide, and the geometry of the ridge. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Air-sea gas transfer in a shallow,flowing and coastal environment estimated by dissolved inorganic carbon and dissolved oxygen analyses

We estimated gas exchange rates in Kabira Reef at Ishigaki Island, southwest Japan, using a mass balance calculation with dual “biological” tracers: dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC) and dissolved oxygen (DO). The nighttime results allowed us to obtain reasonable gas transfer velocity k _w values, all of which exceeded those obtained in wind-dominant studies. The difference is likely due to the contribution of turbulence generated by the interaction between the current and bottom topography. The k _w obtained during high tides is consistent with that reported by Raymond and Cole (2001), whereas k _w during low tides is significantly higher, which seems to be caused by enhanced friction with the bottom of the reef and/or bubble-induced gas transfer by wave breaking at the reef crest.     

有界赤道大洋波包解及其年际年代际变率

Linearized shallow water perturbation equations with approximation in an equatorial β plane are used to obtain the analytical solution of wave packet anomalies in the upper bounded equatorial ocean. The main results are as follows. The wave packet is a superposition of eastward travelling Kelvin waves and westward travelling Rossby waves with the slowest speed, and satisfies the boundary conditions of eastern and western coasts, respectively.The decay coefficient of this solution to the north and south sides of the equator is inversely proportional only to the phase velocity of Kelvin waves in the upper water. The oscillation frequency of the wave packet, which is also the natural frequency of the ocean, is proportional to its mode number and the phase velocity of Kelvin waves and is inversely proportional to the length of the equatorial ocean in the east-west direction. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 1 most of the time appear as zonal flows with the same direction. They reach the maximum at the center of the equatorial ocean and decay rapidly away from the equator, manifested as equatorially trapped waves. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 2 appear as the zonal flows with the same direction most of the time in half of the ocean, and are always 0 at the center of the entire ocean which indicates stagnation, while decaying away from the equator with the same speed as that of Mode 1. The spatial structure and oscillation period of the wave packet solution of Mode 1 and Mode 2 are consistent with the changing periods of the surface spatial field and time coefficient of the first and second modes of complex empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis of flow anomalies in the actual equatorial ocean. This indicates that the solution does exist in the real ocean, and that El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation(ENSO) and Indian Ocean dipole(IOD) are both related to Mode 2.After considering the Indonesian throughflow, we can obtain the length of bounded equatorial ocean by taking the sum of that of the tropical Indian Ocean and the tropical Pacific Ocean, thus this wave packet can also explain the decadal variability(about 20 a) of the equatorial Pacific and Indian Oceans.     

Effect of bed roughness on turbulent boundary layer and net sediment transport under asymmetric waves

This paper presents an investigation of the roughness effects in the turbulent boundary layer for asymmetric waves by using the baseline (BSL) k–ω model. This model is validated by a set of the experimental data with different wave non-linearity index, N_i (namely, N_i = 0.67, N_i = 0.60 and N_i = 0.58). It is further used to simulate asymmetric wave velocity flows with several values of the roughness parameter (a_m/k_s) which increase gradually, namely from a_m/k_s = 35 to a_m/k_s = 963. The effect of the roughness tends to increase the turbulent kinetic energy and to decrease the mean velocity distribution in the inner boundary layer, whereas in the outer boundary layer, the roughness alters the turbulent kinetic energy and the mean velocity distribution is relatively unaffected. A new simple calculation method of bottom shear stress based on incorporating velocity and acceleration terms is proposed and applied into the calculation of the rate of bed-load transport induced by asymmetric waves. And further, the effect of bed roughness on the bottom shear stress and bed-load sediment transport under asymmetric waves is examined with the turbulent model, the newly proposed method, and the existing calculation method. It is found that the higher roughness elements increase the magnitude of bottom shear stress along a wave cycle and consequently, the potential net sediment transport rate. Moreover, the wave non-linearity also shows a big impact on the bottom shear stress and the net sediment transport.     

A refinement of the previous hypothesis of turbulent energy spectrum

To refine the previous hypothesis of turbulent energy spectrum (Nan-niti, 1970), further theoretical consideration and a simple experiment using electric fans was carried out. From the hypothesis ofq=δε/δk andεq=const., the following relations are derived for the spectrumF, and the autocorrelation functionR:F(k)∼k _{−(5−2α)/3} andR(t)∼1−(t/τ)_2(1−α)/3, whereq is the local energy supply,ε the energy dissipation rate, andk the wavenumber,t the time,τ the lifetime of the largest eddy. The following further relations are also obtained:ε∼l _−α,v∼l _β,v∼τ _γ andγ=(1−α)/(2+α)=β/(1−β), wherel is the length scale of the phenomenon,v turbulent velocity,α=1/2,β=1/6, andγ=1/5. The experimental results support these relations.     

Currents and turbulent diffusion in the bottom boundary layer of the Barents Sea

The numerical analysis of the stationary field of current velocity on the upper boundary of the bottom boundary layer in the Barents Sea is performed on the basis of a simplified model taking into account the fields of wind velocity and density of water for the principal periods of the seasonal cycle and the bottom topography. The analysis is based on the climatic BarKode database and the data on the wind velocity over the Barents Sea for the last 50 yr. The numerical results demonstrate that the field of bottom currents is fairly nonuniform and the current velocities vary from several fractions of 1 cm/sec to 5 cm/sec in the zones with noticeable slopes of the bottom. The estimates of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer are obtained for the constant coefficient of bottom friction C _f = 0.04. In the major part of the water area of the Barents Sea, the thickness of the bottom boundary layer is close to 1 m. In the regions with significant slopes of the bottom, it increases to 2–2.5 m and, in the two zones of intensification of the bottom currents, becomes as large as 5 m. The maximum estimate of the coefficient of turbulent viscosity is close to 5 cm²/sec. The mean value of the coefficient of vertical density diffusion K _S is equal to 2.34 cm²/sec and its standard deviation is equal to 1.52 cm²/sec. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 31–49, September–October, 2007.     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

Observation and measurement of the bottom boundary layer flow in the prebreaking zone of shoaling waves

In this paper, the characteristics of the bottom boundary layer flow induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves, propagating over a smooth bed of 1/15 uniform slope, is experimentally investigated. Flow visualization technique with thin-layered fluorescent dye was first used to observe the variation of the flow structure, and a laser Doppler velocimeter was then employed to measure the horizontal velocity, U.The bottom boundary layer flow is found to be laminar except within a small region near the breaking point. The vertical distribution of the phase-averaged velocity U at each phase is non-uniform, which is directly affected by the mean velocity, . The magnitude of increases from zero at the bottom to a local positive maximum at about z/δ2.02.5 (where z is the height above the sloping bottom and δ is the Stokes layer thickness), then decreases gradually to zero at z/δ6.07.0 approximately, and finally becomes negative as z/δ increases further. Moreover, as waves propagate towards shallower water, the rate of increase in the maximum onshore oscillating velocity component is greater than that of the offshore counterpart except near the breaking point. The free stream velocities in the profiles of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components, and are found to appear at z/δ≥6.0. This implies that, if the Stokes layer thickness is used as a length scale, the non-dimensionalized boundary layer thickness remains constant in the pre-breaking zone. Although is greater than and the asymmetry of the maximum free stream velocities (i.e. ) increases with decrease of water depth, a universal similar profile can be established by plotting z/δ versus ( ) or ( ). The final non-dimensional profile is symmetric and unique for the distributions of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components within the bottom boundary layer, which are induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves crossing the pre-breaking zone.     

Modeling wave�Ccurrent bottom boundary layers beneath shoaling and breaking waves

The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.     

Reflection of a long wave from an underwater slope

Reflection of long sea waves from an underwater slope described by a power law is studied within the shallow water theory. The slope is connected with the flat bottom. This model allows us to estimate the roles of a pointwise reflection from the inflection point of the bottom profile and distributed reflection at the underwater slope. The case of the underwater slope described by the so-called nonreflecting beach (h(x) ∼ x ^4/3, where h is the depth of the basin and x is the coordinate) when the wave is reflected only from the inflection point (pointwise reflection) is specially considered. The reflection and transmission coefficients over the bottom topography were calculated, and it was shown that the sum of the squared absolute values of these values differs from unity for all profiles except the nonreflecting one. This difference is related to the distributed re-reflections (resonances) over the underwater slope that lead to the deviations in the wave height from the known Green’s law.     

Laboratory modeling of the propagation of periodic internal waves over bottom slopes

The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast.     

Winter dynamics on the northern Portuguese shelf. Part 2: bottom boundary layers and sediment dispersal

The northern Portuguese shelf, between 41°N and 42°N, is characterised by the presence of a mid-shelf mud deposit, the Douro Mud Patch (DMP). Observations conducted between July 1996 and June 1999 under the framework of project OMEX II–II, are used to examine the impact of the dynamic processes in the lower water column, particularly on the DMP. The typical wave conditions observed during the winter maintain a highly energetic environment, capable of promoting the erosion of fine sediments at mid-shelf depths. However, the bottom nepheloid layers generated beneath these waves only extend a few meters above the bottom and are contained within rocky outcrops with similar heights that fringe the outer shelf. Each year there are about ten storms, mostly associated with southerly winds that create downwelling conditions over the shelf. The waves associated with these storms produce shear velocities over 3 cm/s at mid-shelf and bottom nepheloid layers which extend a few tens of meters above the bottom and spread offshore, over the outer shelf and upper slope. A rough estimate suggests that these events account for an offshore export of about 20×10⁶ kg of fine sediments each year (equivalent to 1–2% of sediments trapped at DMP).     

The vertical structure of combined wave–current flow

A simple numerical model, based on the Reynolds stress equations and k–ε turbulence closure scheme, is developed for the coastal wave and current bottom boundary layer. The current friction velocity is introduced to account for the effect of currents on waves. The implicit Crank–Nicolson finite difference method discretizes the governing equations. Vertical changing step grids with the constant ratio for two adjacent spatial steps are used together with the equal time steps in the modeling. Vertical profiles of mean current velocity and wave velocity amplitude are obtained. These modeled results are compared with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. It has been shown that modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) mean velocity profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) wave velocity amplitude profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled wave velocity amplitudes are in good agreement with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands].     

Investigation of transformations of barotropic tides in the coastal zone

Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, we perform the numerical investigation of transformations of a barotropic diurnal tide in the process of its motion from the deepwater region of the sea into the region of continental slope and shelf zone at any angle to the coast line. For a linear profile of the bottom of the continental slope and shelf, we establish dependences of the amplitudes and velocities of waves on the direction of propagation of the tidal wave and the latitude of the place. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Wave friction factor rediscovered

The wave friction factor is commonly expressed as a function of the horizontal water particle semi-excursion (A _wb) at the top of the boundary layer. A _wb, in turn, is normally derived from linear wave theory by \fracU_\textwbT_\textw2p \frac{{{U_{\text{wb}}}{T_{\text{w}}}}}{{2\pi }} , where U _wb is the maximum water particle velocity measured at the top of the boundary layer and T _w is the wave period. However, it is shown here that A _wb determined in this way deviates drastically from its real value under both linear and non-linear waves. Three equations for smooth, transitional and rough boundary conditions, respectively, are proposed to solve this problem, all three being a function of U _wb, T _w, and δ, the thickness of the boundary layer. Because these variables can be determined theoretically for any bottom slope and water depth using the deepwater wave conditions, there is no need to physically measure them. Although differing substantially from many modern attempts to define the wave friction factor, the results coincide with equations proposed in the 1960s for either smooth or rough boundary conditions. The findings also confirm that the long-held notion of circular water particle motion down to the bottom in deepwater conditions is erroneous, the motion in fact being circular at the surface and elliptical at depth in both deep and shallow water conditions, with only horizontal motion at the top of the boundary layer. The new equations are incorporated in an updated version (WAVECALC II) of the Excel program published earlier in this journal by Le Roux et al. Geo-Mar Lett 30(5): 549–560, (2010).     

Structure of the Wave Bottom Boundary Layer over Smooth and Rough Bottoms

The comparison of six well-known models of the wave bottom boundary layer shows that they are identical in the case of a smooth bottom but exhibit serious differences for the other types of conditions. The thickness of the wave bottom boundary layer and the coefficient of vertical diffusion of momentum are studied by using the relations of the k-ε-model. The validity of these estimates is checked by comparing the measured and computed values of the friction velocity. This comparison demonstrates fairly good agreement between the results characterized by a coefficient of correlation equal to 0.851. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 6, pp. 54–67, November–December, 2005.     

Deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on a sloping bed

This study investigates the wave deformation of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater installed on the slope. Experiments were conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. Measurements of the free surface elevations around an impermeable submerged breakwater were carried out using 19 capacitance-type wave gages. In addition, a numerical model is proposed in three-dimensional random wave field. It is shown that the numerical results reproduce the general trend of the experimental results well. Investigations are made to study the effect of the spreading parameter S_max and bottom topography (bottom slope and submerged breakwater) on the wave deformation. It is pointed out that concentration of wave energy with larger values of the spreading parameter S_max is located within narrow limits in onshore side of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the supplementary discussion is made by means of numerical results.