Variation of roughness length of a mobile sand bed in a tidal flow

Velocity profiles, suspended sand concentration, and ripple shapes were measured over the tidal cycle on a mobile bed. Variations in ripple shape or dimensions, and the effects of mobile sediment could not account for the variations in bed roughness length, which increased systematically during the tide from 0.5 to 1.3 cm. The effects of acceleration could be the cause as they would lead to the same pattern of variation, but existing theory does not give the correct magnitude.     

Modelling ripple development under non-uniform flow and sediment supply-limited conditions in a laboratory flume

Results are reported herein of an open channel flow laboratory based study of the development of ripples on a fine silica sand bed, and under non-uniform turbulent subcritical flow conditions. The hydraulic model used included a diverging channel, which resulted in a variation of hydraulic and sediment transport parameters along the channel. Sediment supply limitation occurred during experimentation, impacting bed form development. The overall aim of this study was to improve the understanding and modelling capability of the development of bed forms under limited sediment supply and non-uniform flow conditions. In particular, the applicability of an existing empirical model capable of predicting ripple development was tested for the conditions of this study, using measured ripple dimensions. The ripple height and length results were extracted from detailed bed profile records, obtained using an acoustic Doppler probe traversed longitudinally over the sediment bed, at various experimentation time intervals. It was found that the non-uniform flow conditions affected the development rate of the bed forms, while sediment supply limitation impacted their steady state dimensions. The measured steady state ripple dimensions were lower, on average, than the corresponding equilibrium dimensions predicted using existing empirical equations. Non-uniform flow also caused the simultaneous occurrence of bed forms at different stages of development along the hydraulic model, where 3D and 2D ripples and incipient bed forms were recorded. Such a scenario can occur in estuarine and coastal flows, due to changing hydraulic conditions and/or a limitation of sediment supply. The ripple development model tested was verified for the conditions of this study, with its accuracy being shown to depend on an accurate determination of steady state parameters.     

An investigation of the velocity field under regular and irregular waves over a sand beach

Near-bed horizontal (cross-shore) and vertical velocity measurements were acquired in a laboratory wave flume over a 1:8 sloping sand beach of finite depth. Data were acquired using a three-component acoustic Doppler velocimeter to measure the velocity field close to, but at a fixed distance from the bed. The near-bed velocity field is examined as close as 1.5 cm above a trough and crest of a ripple under three different types of wave forcing (Stokes waves, Stokes groups, and irregular waves). Although both horizontal and vertical velocity measurements were made, attention is focused primarily on the vertical velocity. The results clearly indicate that the measured near-bed vertical velocity (which was outside the wave-bottom boundary layer) is distinctly nonzero and not well predicted by linear theory. Spectral and bispectral analysis techniques indicate that the vertical velocity responds differently depending on the location over a ripple, and that ripple-induced effects on the velocity field are present as high as 4–8 cm above the bed (for vortex ripples with wavelengths on the order of 8 cm and amplitudes on the order of 2 cm). At greater heights above the bed, the observed wave-induced motion is adequately predicted by the linear theory.     

Generation of tidal bedding in a circular flume experiment: formation process and preservation potential of mud drapes

Flume experiments aimed to produce flaser bedding were conducted using fine sand and clay in a circular flume. The formation process of mud drapes during the slack-water stage was revealed in detail. When the tidal current declines, a uniform mobile mud layer initially settles from suspension and drapes the entire rippled sand bed (type A mud). When the remaining flow velocity is very low, a more fluid mud begins to settle out (type B mud) that preferentially fills the ripple troughs, the ripples and mud together forming a flat surface. At slack tide, the two-phase mud drape is temporarily stationary. After the onset of the reversed flow phase, most of the type B mud is resuspended, while the type A mud is eroded from the crests, leaving behind a remnant mud drape (flaser) in the troughs that is subsequently buried by migrating ripples. Type B mud generally contains variable amounts of sand derived from eroded ripple crests, but does not show any visible internal sedimentary structures. Type A mud represents the ‘mud drapes’ commonly described in the literature, the temporary existence of type B mud having gone unnoticed because of its low preservation potential. When present, it can be recognized by its sand content and the occurrence of flame structures in ripple troughs. Tidal deposits reflecting the existence and depositional characteristics of both type A and type B mud are found in, for example, the macrotidal Oligocene Ashiya Group, Japan.     

Suspension of sediment particles over a ripple due to turbulent convection under unsteady flow conditions

We analyzed the motions of small sediment particles over a sinusoidal ripple due to an unsteady turbulent boundary layer flow using Large Eddy Simulation. The motions of sediment particles are described in terms of the Lagrangian framework as it is helpful in studying the structure of sediment suspension in detail. Strong coherent vortical structures are well developed along the upslope of the ripple surface during the accelerating flow phase, which effectively drag the particles to the ripple crest. At the maximum flow rate and at the decelerating flow phase, a cloud of vortical structures is developed vertically in the lee area of the ripple. Sediment particles render strong dispersion in the vertical direction when they are captured by these turbulent vortices, causing convective sediment flux that cannot be explained by the mean flows. The convective sediment suspension is strongest at the time of flow deceleration, while over a flat bed at the time of flow reversal. This observation suggests that bed form effect should be considered in modeling convective sediment flux.     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…     

Fundamental study for morphodynamic modelling: Sand mounds in oscillatory flows

Experiments on sand mounds in oscillatory flow, undertaken in controlled, large-scale laboratory conditions, have produced well-defined data sets for model comparison. Three bathymetries with different levels of submergence, including a surface-piercing case, were tested. The maximum slope was about 1:5.5. Sediment transport is due to bed load with ripple formation. The principal time-dependent bulk parameters are the vertical distance of the centre of gravity above the base and the volume of the mound. A semi-implicit finite-volume depth-averaged hydrodynamic model is used to drive morphodynamics, using van Rijn's sediment flux model generalized to take account of bed slope, and some justification is given for depth-averaged modeling in these conditions. Starting the model runs with the conditions at the end of the first cycle avoided initial atypical physical behaviour. In general good predictions were obtained with an angle of repose reduced from the standard value of about 30° for stationary beds to 15°. For these situations, morphodynamics was largely unaffected by a hydrodynamic roughness height in the range 2.5D₅₀ to 51D₅₀, with larger values accounting for ripple roughness. The reduced angle of repose may be physically expected with mobile beds but this specific value is only expected to be suited to this form of bed motion. In one case an exaggerated ripple formed near the top of the mound reducing agreement with experiment. For the submerged case with normal ripple structure excellent predictions were obtained. For the initially surface-piercing mound, the time of submergence was better predicted with a 30° angle of repose, presumably due to the prominent influence of the near stationary bed near the wet/dry interface, although long term predictions were better predicted with 15°. The occurrence of vortex shedding in the first cycle modeled was in agreement with experimental observation.     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

Bed load transport under irregular waves plus current from Monte Carlo simulations of parameterized models with application to ripple migration rates observed in the field

The bed load transport rate under random waves plus current has been predicted for a large range of wave–current conditions. A parameterized model valid for regular waves plus current has been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh distributed. The mean value, standard deviation and numerical estimates of the probability density function of the bed load transport rate are presented for a wide range of wave–current conditions. It appears that overall the effect of the current is dominating the bed load transport rate. Moreover, a significant scatter of the bed load transport rate under random waves plus current is found. Such a scatter is also found in field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1]. Predicted ripple migration rates in the bed load regime have been compared with those obtained from field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1], taking the bed load transport rate to be proportional to the ripple migration rate times the ripple height. Overall, the predictions capture the qualitative as well as the quantitative behaviour of the ripple migration rates in a wide range of wave–current conditions; the ripple migration rates, and thereby the bed load, are predicted within the correct order of magnitude for a wide range of wave–current conditions.     

Numerical simulation of oscillatory flows over a rippled bed by immersed boundary method

In this paper, a well-developed numerical model based on the immersed boundary (IB) method is used to study oscillatory flows over a bed with large-amplitude ripples in a systematic manner. The work shows that the complex flow over the rippled bed can be numerically dealt with in Cartesian coordinate by the IB method and that the IB method is able to provide main features of the flows near the ripples. An accurate simulation of vortices generation as a result of flow separation at the rippled bed is obtained. It is found that the oscillatory flows start to separate during the flow deceleration when the Keulegan–Carpenter (KC) number is small. The steady streaming for various ripple steepness is simulated and the criterion for separating the single and double structure streaming is also discussed. Moreover, a new type of steady streaming which consists of a pair of embedded recirculations in the vicinity of the ripple trough is obtained for relatively steep ripples in this work. The numerical results, including the steady streaming in particular, may be helpful to improve the understanding of the sediment transport and the seabed evolution with natural ripples under sea waves.     

A note on the fauna of a ripple‐marked sandy sediment in western cook strait,New Zealand

Photographs of a ripple‐marked sea bed are reproduced together with the results of a mechanical analysis of the sediment and a list of the animals found. The sparseness of the fauna is attributed to the mobility of the substrate.     

Tidal-cycle changes in oscillation ripples on the inner part of an estuarine sand flat

Oscillation ripples form on subaqueous sand beds when wave-generated, near-bottom water motions are strong enough to move sand grains. The threshold of grain motion is the lower bound of the regime of oscillation ripples and the onset of sheet flow is the upper bound. Based on the relation between ripple spacing and orbital diameter, three types of symmetrical ripples occur within the ripple regime. In the lower part of the ripple regime (orbital ripples), spacing is proportional to orbital diameter; in the upper part (anorbital ripples) spacing is independent of orbital diameter. Between these regions occurs a transitional region (suborbital ripples).

Oscillation ripples develop on a sandy tidal flat in Willapa Bay, Washington, as a result of waves traversing the area when it is submerged. Because wave energy is usually low within the bay, the ripples are primarily orbital in type. This means that their spacing should respond in a systematic way to changes in wave conditions. During the high-water parts of some tidal cycles, ripples near the beach decrease in spacing during the latter stage of the ebb tide while ripples farther offshore do not change. Observations made over several tidal cycles show that the zone of active ripples shifts on- or offshore in response to different wave conditions.

Detailed bed profiles and current measurements taken during the high-water part of spring tides show the manner in which the oscillation ripples change with changes in orbital diameter. Changes in ripple spacing at the study site could be correlated with changes in orbital diameter in the manner suggested by the criterion for orbital ripples. However, there appeared to be a lag time between a decrease in orbital diameter and the corresponding decrease in ripple spacing. Absence of change during a tidal cycle could be attributed to orbital velocities below the threshold for grain motion that negated the effects of changes in orbital diameter.

Because changes in sand-flat ripples depend both upon changes in orbital diameter and upon the magnitude of the orbital velocity, exposed ripples were not necessarily produced during the preceding high tide. In fact, some ripples may have been just produced, while others, farther offshore, may have been produced an unknown number of tides earlier. Therefore, when interpreting past wave conditions over tidal flats from low-tide ripples, one must remember that wave periods have to be short enough to produce velocities greater than the threshold velocity for the orbital diameters calculated from the observed ripple spacings.     

Database of full-scale laboratory experiments on wave-driven sand transport processes

A new database of laboratory experiments involving sand transport processes over horizontal, mobile sand beds under full-scale non-breaking wave and non-breaking wave-plus-current conditions is described. The database contains details of the flow and bed conditions, information on which quantities were measured and the value of the measured net sand transport rate for 298 experiments conducted in 7 large-scale laboratory facilities. Analysis of the coverage of the experiments and the measured net sand transport rates identified the following gaps in the range of test conditions and/or the type of measurements: (i) graded sand experiments, (ii) wave-plus-current experiments and (iii) intra-wave velocity and concentration measurements in the ripple regime. Furthermore, it highlights two areas requiring further research: (i) the differences in sand transport processes and sand transport rates between real waves and tunnel flows with nominally similar near-bed oscillatory flow conditions and (ii) the effects of acceleration skewness on transport rates. The database is a useful resource for the development and validation of sand transport models for coastal applications.     

控制流水波痕的外部地质作用

流水波痕可以广泛发育在不同的海、陆相环境中。对流水波痕的研究不能仅仅注意沉积作用方面，更要注意作用于流水波痕的外部条件。     

Propagation of water waves over permeable rippled beds

Unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and Navier-Stokes type model equations for porous flow were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of water waves over a permeable rippled bed. A boundary-fitted coordinate system was adopted to make the computational meshes consistent with the rippled bed. The accuracy of the numerical scheme was confirmed by comparing the numerical results concerning the spatial distribution of wave amplitudes over impermeable and permeable rippled beds with the analytical solutions. For periodic incident waves, the flow field over the wavy wall is discussed in terms of the steady Eulerian streaming velocity. The trajectories of the fluid particles that are initially located close to the ripples were also determined. One of the main results herein is that under the action of periodic water waves, fluid particles on an impermeable rippled bed initially moved back and forth around the ripple crest, with increasing vertical distance from the rippled wall. After one or two wave periods, they are then lifted towards the next ripple crest. All of the marked particles on a permeable rippled bed were shifted onshore with a much larger displacement than those on an impermeable bed. Finally, the flow fields and the particle motions close to impermeable and permeable beds induced by a solitary wave are elucidated.     

Effects of bed perturbation and velocity asymmetry on ripple initiation: wave-flume experiments

Laboratory experiments using a wave flume were designed to examine the threshold condition for ripple formation under asymmetrical oscillatory flows on an artificially roughened bed. Three types of sand beds were prepared in the experiments: they were flat, notched, and notch-mounded beds with bed roughness increasing in this order. The beds were constructed with three kinds of well-sorted sand with similar density, but different diameters. Data analyses were made using the two dimensionless parameters: the mobility number, M, a simplified form of the Shields number, and the Ursell number, U, a surrogate for asymmetry of flow field. The result confirmed that the threshold for ripple initiation is decreased with increasing bed perturbation and that as the bed perturbation increases, the dependency of this threshold on the flow asymmetry becomes less and finally null for the notch-mounded bed. This relationship is quantified by the following equations: M=17−14.5e^−0.03U on the flat bed, M=5.0−2.5e^−0.1U for the notched bed, and M=2.5 for the notch-mounded bed. A comparison between the previous field data and the present laboratory findings indicates that the threshold in the notch-mounded bed experiment, M=2.5, seems to provide a critical condition for rippling in the natural environment.     

The wave plus current flow over vortex ripples at an arbitrary angle

This work concerns the wave plus current flow over a sand bed covered by vortex ripples, with the current and the waves coming from different angles. Experiments were performed in a basin, where current and waves were perpendicular, in order to determine the conditions (current strength) leading to a regular ripple pattern formation. Numerical simulations were conducted changing the direction between the waves and the current from 0° to 90° and the ratio between the current strength and the wave orbital velocity from 0.2 to 1.5. Close to the bed, the current aligns parallel to the ripple crests, leading to a veering current profile with the vertical coordinate. The current-related friction coefficient was calculated. It was found that it decreases as the angle approaches 90°, while it increases for decreasing values of the current with a trend that can be described by a power law.     

Sand ripples generated by regular oscillatory flow

The prediction of ripple geometry is a necessary precursor to the prediction of sand transport under waves for ripple regime conditions. The paper begins with a comparison of four existing methods for predicting the geometry of sand ripples generated by oscillatory flow. The comparison points to substantial differences between ripple dimensions predicted by the methods, especially for field-scale conditions. Ripple geometry experiments carried out in a large oscillatory flow tunnel are then described. The experiments involved a range of sand sizes and sinusoidal and asymmetric flows with periods and velocities typical of field conditions. Comparison of measured and predicted ripple geometries leads to the recommendation that the method of Mogridge, Davies and Willis be used to predict ripple geometry for field-scale oscillatory flows. The Nielsen method yields good predictions of ripple length, but the rapid fall-off in ripple steepness predicted by the Nielsen method at high mobility number is not supported by the measurements. The lengths and heights of symmetric ripples produced by sinusoidal flows are found to be similar to the lengths and heights of asymmetric ripples produced by “equivalent” asymmetric flows. Three-dimensional ripples occur with fine sand in long-period flows typical of field conditions. The dimensions of these ripples cannot be predicted using methods developed for two-dimensional ripples. Previously suggested criteria for predicting the occurrence of three-dimensional ripples fail when tested against a wide range of flow and sand conditions. The occurrence of three-dimensional ripples and the effects of ripple and flow history on ripple geometry require further research.     

Seasonal and Between-Substrate Variation in Mobile Epifaunal Community in a Multispecific Seagrass Bed of Otsuchi Bay, Japan

Abstract. A seagrass bed in Otsuchi Bay, northeastern Japan, consists of three seagrass species ( Zostera marina, Z. caulescens and Z. caespitosa ) that differ in morphology and phenology. We studied the mobile epifaunal community in the seagrass bed to examine (1) whether seasonal and between-substrate variation in the epifaunal community agrees with variation in seagrass abundance and morphological complexity, and (2) whether patterns of seasonal and between-substrate variation vary among epifaunal species. We collected mobile epifauna from each of Z. marina and Z. caulescens on 11 occasions between October 1995 and November 1996 (at 1 – 1.5 month intervals) using a hand-closing net. A total of 9 842 individuals of mobile epiphytic animals were collected and they were classified into 80 taxa. Abundance and species richness of the epifaunal community were high in summer to autumn and low in winter to spring, and diversity index and evenness were higher in Z. marina than Z. caulescens . However, patterns of seasonal and between-substrate variation in these parameters did not parallel those in seagrass abundance and complexity. Most of the dominant epifaunal species showed significant seasonal and between-substrate variation in abundance, although their patterns varied greatly among individual species. A cluster analysis recognized several distinct groups of animals showing similar seasonal and between-substrate variation. Our findings suggest that the observed variation in the epifaunal community is not determined by a single or some strong external factors but by complex interactions of multiple factors operating differently for each component species.