Control of the variability of nutrients and suspended sediments in a gulf coast estuary by climatic forcing and spring discharge of the Atchafalaya River

Water column nutrients (nitrate, ammonium, soluble reactive phosphate, total Kjeldahl nitrogen, and total phosphorus) and suspended sediments (SS) were measured during one 44-h and two 28-h periods in March 1982 at two stations in Fourleague Bay, Louisiana, which is located at the mouth of the Atchafalaya River, a distributary of the Mississippi River. River water (a source of nitrate, total Kjeldahl nitrogen, total phosphorus, and suspended sediments to Fourleague Bay) flows into the upper reaches of the bay during high tide and frontal overrunning conditions with northerly and westerly winds. During one sampling period, decreasing wind speed and the rising tide resulted in Atchafalaya River water inundating the bay and nitrate concentrations in the upper bay increasing from 30–70 μM to 90–118 μM. Significant variations in nutrients associated with the movement of water masses from the river, marshes, and Gulf of Mexico occurred over several different time scales. Tidal transport occurred over 25-h periods, while frontal passages occurred at 3-d to 5-d intervals. Variability in nutrient and suspended sediment concentrations over these relatively short time scales can be as great as seasonal variability in the bay.     

The influence of local and non-local forcing effects on the subtidal circulation of Patos Lagoon

Some basic features concerning the subtidal circulation of Patos Lagoon were studied through time series analysis of wind, freshwater discharge, and water level records, as well as by means of experiments carried out with a 3D numerical model. The results indicate that during low to moderate river discharge the wind is the main forcing mechanism in time scales associated with meteorological fronts. The two types of wind action, local and non-local effects, are distinguished and their relative importance is evaluated. Salt water enters the system due to a combination of both remote and local wind effects that favors the development of a pressure gradient towards the lagoon during southwesterly winds. This situation is reversed when northeasterly winds dominate. In the inner parts of the lagoon, local wind plays the major role by inducing set up/set down oscillations. An upwind return flow is then developed under these conditions. During high flood periods, normally observed in late winter, the circulation is driven by freshwater discharge.     

The influence of wind and river pulses on an estuarine turbidity maximum: Numerical studies and field observations in Chesapeake Bay

The effect of pulsed events on estuarine turbidity maxima (ETM) was investigated with the Princeton Ocean Model, a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model. The theoretical model was adapted to a straight-channel estuary and enhanced with sediment transport, erosion, deposition, and burial components. Wind and river pulse scenarios from the numerical model were compared to field observations before and after river pulse and wind events in upper Chesapeake Bay. Numerical studies and field observations demonstrated that the salt front and ETM had rapid and nonlinear responses to short-term pulses in river flow and wind. Although increases and decreases in river flow caused down-estuary and up-estuary (respectively) movements of the salt front, the effect of increased river flow was more pronounced than that of decreased river flow. Along-channel wind events also elicited non-linear responses. The salt front moved in the opposite direction of wind stress, shifting up-estuary in response to down-estuary winds and vice-versa. Modeled pulsed events affected suspended sediment distributions by modifying the location of the salt front, near-bottom shear stress, and the location of bottom sediment in relation to stratification within the salt front. Bottom sediment accumulated near the convergent zone at the tip of the salt front, but lagged behind the rapid response of the salt front during wind events. While increases in river flow and along-channel winds resulted in sediment transport down-estuary, only reductions in river flow resulted in consistent up-estuary movement of bottom sediment. Model predictions suggest that wind and river pulse events significantly influence salt front structure and circulation patterns, and have an important role in the transport of sediment in upper estuaries.     

Characteristics of a Shallow River Plume: Observations from the Saco River Coastal Observing System

Interest in the coastal dynamics of river plumes has mainly focused on large rivers, but plumes from the more numerous smaller rivers have important local consequences and may, in aggregate, be significant contributors to coastal circulation. We studied the dynamics of the plume from the Saco River in Saco Bay, Gulf of Maine, over a 3-year period. The transport and salinity in the region are governed by river discharge, tides, winds, and interaction with the Western Maine Coastal Current. The dynamics of the flow field vary with location within the plume and discharge. The far-field dynamics of the Saco River plume are dominated by inertial processes (hence qualifying it as a small-scale river plume), during times of low discharge, with low salinity water present both up and downstream of the river mouth, but are dominated by rotational processes during times of high discharge (thus qualifying it as a large-scale river plume), with buoyant water primarily advected downshelf. Near-field dynamics are governed by weak, subcritical flow during low discharge but strongly inertial, supercritical flow during high discharge. Offshore movement of the plume is not governed by Ekman dynamics but is instead a result of discharge, wind-induced vertical mixing, and the geography of the coastline and adjacent islands.     

Marsh-water column interactions in two Louisiana estuaries. II. Nutrient dynamics

The exchange of dissolved nutrients between marshes and the inundating water column was measured using throughflow marsh flumes built, in two microtidal Louisiana estuaries: the Barataria Basin estuary and Fourleague Bay. The flumes were sampled between September 1986 and April 1988, coincident with an extended period of low sea level on the Louisiana coast. The Barataria Basin estuary is in the later, deteriorating stage of the deltaic cycle, characterized by low freshwater inputs and subsiding marshes. Both brackish and saline marshes supplied dissolved organic nitrogen (DON), inorganic nitrogen (ammonium + nitrate + nitrite = DIN), dissolved organic carbon (DOC), and total nitrogen (as total Kjeldahl nitrogen = TKN) to the water column. The export of DIN is probably related to the N accumulated in earlier stages of deltaic development and released as these marshes deteriorate. Coastal brackish marshes of Fourleague, Bay, part of an accreting marsh system in an early, developmental stage of the deltaic cycle, exported TKN to the open water estuary in all samplings. This marsh apparently acted as a short-term buffer of DIN by taking up NH₄ ⁺ in spring, when baywide concentrations were high, and supplying DIN to the estuary in summer and fall, when concentrations, in the bay were lower. Differences in phosphorus (P), DOC, and DON fluxes between these two estuaries were also observed. The Fourleague Bay site exported soluble reactive phosphorus (SRP) and total phosphorus (TP) and imported DOC. This P export may be related to remobilization of sediment-bound riverine P by the reducing, soils of the marshes. Fluxes of SRP at the Barataria Basin sites were variable and low while DOC was imported. Most imports of dissolved nutrients were correlated with higher upstream [source] concentrations, and flux rates were fairly consistent throughout the tide. Dissolved nutrient exports, did not correlate with upstream concentrations, though, and in many cases the flux was dominated by early, flood tide nutrient release. This pulsed behavior may be caused by rapid diffusion from the sediments early in the tidal cycle, when the sediment-water concentration gradient is largest. Interestuary differences were also seen in particulate organic matter fluxes, as the Fourleague Bay marsh exported POC and PON during all samplings while Barataria Basin imported these nutrients. In general, the magnitude and direction of nutrient exchanges in Louisiana marshes, seem to reflect the deltaic successional stage of the estuary.     

Tropical Storm and Hurricane wind effects on water level, salinity, and sediment transport in the river-influenced Atchafalaya-Vermilion Bay System, Louisiana, USA

Changes in circulation, water level, salinity, suspended sediments, and sediment flux resulted from Tropical Storm Frances and Hurricane Georges in the Vermilion-Atchafalaya Bay region during September 1998. Tropical Storm Frances made landfall near Port Aransas, Texas, 400 km west of the study area, and yet the strong and long-lived southeasterly winds resulted in the highest water levels and salinity values of the year at one station in West Cote Blanche Bay. Water levels were abnormally high across this coastal bay system, although salinity impacts varied spatially. Over 24 h, salinity increased from 5 to 20 psu at Site 1 on the east side of West Cote Blanche Bay. Abnormally high salinities were recorded in Atchafalaya Bay but not at stations in Vermilion Bay. On September 28, 1998, Hurricane Georges made landfall near Biloxi, Mississippi, 240 km east of the study area. On the west side of the storm, wind stress was from the north and maximum winds locally reached 14 m s⁻¹. The wind forcing and physical responses of the bay system were analogous to those experienced during a winter cold-front passage. During the strong, north wind stress period, coastal water levels fell, salinity decreased, and sediment-laden bay water was transported onto the inner shelf. As the north wind stress subsided, a pulse of relatively saline water entered Vermilion Bay through Southwest Pass increasing salinity from 5 to 20 psu over a 24-h period. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)-14 reflectance imagery revealed the regional impacts of wind-wave resuspension and the bay-shelf exchange of waters. During both storm events, suspended solid concentrations increased by an order of magnitude from 75 to over 750 mg l⁻¹. The measurements demonstrated that even remote storm systems can have marked impacts on the physical processes that affect ecological processes in shallow coastal bay systems.     

Modeling of the Cape Fear River Estuary plume

The Environmental Fluid Dynamic Code, an estuarine and coastal ocean circulation model, is used to simulate the distribution of the salinity plume in the vicinity of the mouth of the Cape Fear River Estuary, North Carolina. The individual and coupled effects of the astronomical tides, river discharge, and atmospheric winds on the spatial and temporal distributions of coastal water levels and the salinity plume were investigated. These modeled effects were compared with water level observations made by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and salinity surveys conducted by the Coastal Ocean Research and Monitoring Program. Model results and observations of salinity distributions and coastal water level showed good agreement. The simulations indicate that strong winds tend to reduce the surface plume size and distort the bulge shape near the estuary mouth due to enhanced wind-induced surface mixing. Under normal discharge conditions, tides, and light winds, the southward outwelling plume veers west. Relatively moderate winds can mechanically reverse the flow direction of the plume. Under conditions of weak to moderate winds the water column does not mix vertically to the bottom, while in strong wind cases the plume becomes vertically well mixed. Under conditions of high river discharge the plume increases in size and reaches the bottom. Vertical mixing induced by strong spring tides can also enable the plume to reach the bottom.     

Marsh-water column interactions in two Louisiana estuaries. I. Sediment dynamics

Throughflow marsh flumes were used to measure total sediment exchanges (TSS) between the marshes and water column of two Louisiana estuaries. One, the Barataria Basin estuary, is isolated from significant riverine sediment input. There were significant (p<0.05) imports of 33.9 to 443 mg TSS m^?2 h^?1 at the Barataria Basin brackish marsh (BM) site. The Barataria Basin saltmarsh (SM) site exported TSS in two summer samplings, but significant uptake was measured in April (166 mg m^?2 h^?1) and November (45 mg m^?2 h^?1) during a winter frontal passage event. The other estuary, Fourleague Bay, receives large sediment inputs from the Atchafalaya River, and TSS imports of 22.5 to 118.5 mg m^?2 h^?1 were measured at the BM site here. We calculated sediment accumulation from fluxes quantified in marsh flumes using site-specific sedimentological data and flooding regimes at each site. Water level records from May 1987 to April 1989 showed an extended period of unusually low flooding frequencies. As a result, calculated accretion rates were low, with monthly rates of 0.02 to 0.11 mm and ?0.06 to 0.06 mm at the Barataria BM and SM sites, respectively, and ?0.18 to 0.08 mm at the Fourleague Bay marsh flume site. Actual net sediment deposition, determined by feldspar marker horizon analysis, was 0.7–1.6 mm mo^?1 at the Barataria SM and 0.2–1.3 mm mo^?1 at the Fourleague Bay BM. Even the highest calculated accretion rates, based on flume measurements, were half to one order of magnitude lower than actual measured sediment deposition. This discrepancy was probably because: 1) most sedimentation occurs during episodic events, such as Hurricane Gilbert in September 1988, which deposited 3.5–15.5 mm of sediment on the Barataria Basin saltmarsh, or 2) most vertical accretion in Louisiana marshes occurs via deposition of in situ organic matter rather than by influx of allochthonous sediment. Our results affirm the variability of short-term sediment transport and depositional processes, the close coupling of meteorologic forcing and flooding regime to sediment dynamics, and the importance of understanding these interrelated mechanisms in the context of longer term measurements.     

Flow,stress and sediment resuspension in a shallow tidal channel

In October of 2004, a 3-d observational program to measure flow and sediment resuspension within a coastal intertidal salt marsh was conducted in the North Inlet/Winyah Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve located near Georgetown, South Carolina. Current and acoustic backscatter profiles were obtained from a moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) deployed in a shallow tidal channel during the spring phase of the tidal cycle under high discharge conditions. The channel serves as a conduit between Winyah Bay, a large brackish estuary, and North Inlet, a saline intertidal coastal salt marsh with little freshwater input. Salinity measurements indicate that the water column is vertically well mixed during flood, but becomes vertically stratified during early ebb. The stratification results from brackish (15 psu) Winyah Bay water entering North Inlet via the tidal channel, suggesting an exchange mechanism that permits North Inlet to receive a fraction of the poor water quality and high discharge flow from upland rivers. Although maximum flood currents exceed maximum ebb currents by 0.2 m s⁻¹, suspended sediment concentrations are highest during the latter ebb phase and persist for a longer fraction of the ebb cycle. Even though the channel is flood-dominated, the higher concentrations occurring over a longer fraction of the ebb phase indicate net particulate transport from Winyah Bay to North Inlet during spring tide accompanied by high discharge. Our evidence suggests that the higher concentrations during ebb result from increased bed friction caused by flow asymmetries and variations in water depth in which the highest stresses occur near the end of ebb near low water despite stronger maximum currents during flood.     

Salinity stratification in a river-dominated estuary

Analysis of salinity data from Mobile Bay indicates that stratification-destratification events within this broad, shallow estuary are not uncommon. These events are related to the strength of the winds, through their influence on wave generation and subsequent bottom drag coefficient increases, and to the strength of river discharge. They do not appear to be due to the strength of tidal currents, as has been observed elsewhere. Furthermore, river flow appears to be the dominant control, the winds being important only in the absence of large freshwater discharges. The annual spring freshet can flush most of the salt from the bay. During other times of the year the relative strengths of river discharge and wind stress change the bay from highly stratified to nearly homogeneous and back on a variety of time scales ranging from daily to seasonal.     

The influence of episodic events on transport of striped bass eggs to the estuarine turbidity maximum nursery area

The estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) is an important nursery area for anadromous fish where early-life stages can be retained in high prey concentrations and favorable salinities. Episodic freshwater flow and wind events could influence the transport of striped bass (Morone saxatilis) eggs to the ETM. This hypothesis was evaluated with regression analysis of observational data and with a coupled biological-physical model of a semi-idealized upper Chesapeake Bay driven by observed wind and freshwater flow. A particle-tracking model was constructed within a numerical circulation model (Princeton Ocean Model) to simulate the transport of fish eggs in a 3-dimensional flow field. Particles with the sinking speed of striped bass eggs were released up-estuary of the salt front in both 2-d event-scale and 60-d seasonal-scale scenarios. In event scenarios, egg-like particles with observed specific gravities (densities) of striped bass eggs were transported to the optimum ETM nursery area after 2 d, the striped bass egg-stage duration. Wind events and pulses in river discharge decreased the number of egg-like particles transported to the ETM area by 20.9% and 13.2%, respectively, compared to nonevent conditions. In seasonal scenarios, particle delivery to the ETM depended upon the timing of the release of egg-like particles. The number of particles transported to the ETM area decreased when particles were released before and during wind and river pulse events. Particle delivery to the ETM area was enhanced when the salt front was moving up-estuary after river pulse events and as base river flow receded over the spawning season. Model results suggest that the timing of striped bass spawning in relation to pulsed events may have a negative (before or during events) or positive (after river flow events) effect on egg transport. Spawning after river flow events may promote early-stage survival by taking advantage of improved transport, enhanced turbidity refuge, and elevated prey production that may occur after river pulse events. In multiple regression analysis of observed data, mean spring freshwater flow rates and the number of pulsed freshwater flow events during the striped bass spawning season explained 71% of the variability in striped bass juvenile abundance in upper Chesapeake Bay from 1986 to 2002. Positive parameter estimates for these effects support the hypothesis that pulsed freshwater flow events, coupled with spawning after the events, may enhance striped bass early-stage survival. Results suggest that episodic events may have an important role in controlling fish recruitment.     

Role of Late Winter–Spring Wind Influencing Summer Hypoxia in Chesapeake Bay

We examined the processes influencing summer hypoxia in the mainstem portion of Chesapeake Bay. The analysis was based on the Chesapeake Bay Monitoring Program data collected between 1985 and 2007. Self-organizing map (SOM) analysis indicates that bottom water dissolved oxygen (DO) starts to be depleted in the upper mesohaline area during late spring, and hypoxia expands down-estuary by early summer. The seasonal hypoxia in the bay appears to be related to multiple variables, (e.g., river discharge, nutrient loading, stratification, phytoplankton biomass, and wind condition), but most of them are intercorrelated. The winter–spring Susquehanna River flow contributes to not only spring–summer buoyancy effects on estuarine circulation dynamics but also nutrient loading from the land-promoting phytoplankton growth. In addition, we found that summer hypoxia is significantly correlated with the late winter–spring (February–April) northeasterly–southwesterly (NE–SW) wind. Based on winter–spring (January–May) conditions, a predictive tool was developed to forecast summer (June–August) hypoxia using river discharge and NE–SW wind. We hypothesized that the late winter–spring wind pattern may affect the transport of spring bloom biomass to the western shoal or the deep channel of the bay that either alleviates or increases the summer hypoxic volume in the midbay region, respectively. To examine this hypothesis, residual flow fields were analyzed using a hydrodynamic ocean model (Regional Ocean Modeling System; ROMS) between 2000 and 2003, two hydrologically similar years but years with different wind conditions during the spring bloom period. Simulation model results suggest that relatively larger amounts of organic matter could be transported into the deep channel in 2003 (severe hypoxia; frequent northeasterly wind) than 2000 (moderate hypoxia; frequent southwesterly wind).     

Meteorological influences on sea level and water temperature in the lower Chesapeake Bay: 1992

The influence of atmospheric forcing on the flow and heat transports in the lower Chesapeake Bay and the adjacent coastal ocean were studied by comparing nontidal sea level and sea surface temperature variations in this region with meteorological data for 1992. Northeasterly and southwesterly winds caused the greatest changes in mean sea level (greater than 0.25 m) throughout the year. Northeastely winds caused a more rapid response than southwesterly winds, causing sea-level rises in less than 6 h. Barometric pressure changes typically contributed approximately 10% to extreme sea-level variations and were less influential than wind stress in most cases. Wind forcing was also responsible for summer events in which the horizontal water temperature gradient between two near-surface locations in the vicinity of the bay mouth vanished. These zero-gradient events corresponded to inflows and outflows at the bay's entrance caused by northeasterly and southwesterly winds, respectively. Wind-induced advection outside the lower Chesapeake Bay was additionally responsible for extreme heat flux variations. Heat gains and losses during the spring and fall occurred in pulsating events related to wind direction but were probably not connected to lower bay processes.     

The influence of river variability on the circulation,chemistry, and microbiology of the Delaware Estuary

Gravitational circulation of the Delaware Estuary is dominated by a single river, the Delaware River. The seasonal variation in river discharge is large. Consequently, the water column varies between vertically homogenous conditions found during most of the year and strongly stratified conditions found during the high flow of the spring freshet. Both the variation in river discharge and the extent of stratification affect chemical distributions and biological processes in the estuary. With a simple advection-diffusion model, we show that the apparent nonconservative behavior of nitrate in the Delaware Estuary can result from varying endmember concentration and varying river discharge. In addition, we illustrate the relationship between water column stratification, phytoplankton production, and concurrent bacterial activity. Finally, as an indirect chemical response to phytoplankton growth during high river discharge, we show strongly nonconservative patterns for ammonium, phosphate, and silicate in the estuary.     

Fine sediment transport and accumulations at the mouth of the Seine estuary (France)

A comprehensive study of fine sediment transport in the macrotidal Seine estuary has been conducted, including observations of suspended particulate matter (SPM), surficial sediment, and bathymetric data, as well as use of a three dimensional mathematical model. Tide, river regime, wind, and wave forcings are accounted. The simulated turbidity maximum (TM) is described in terms of concentration and location according to tidal amplitude and the discharge of the Seine River. The TM is mainly generated by tidal pumping, but can be concentrated or stretched by the salinity front. The computed deposition patterns depend on the TM location and are seasonally dependent. The agreement with observations is reasonable, although resuspension by waves may be overestimated. Although wave resuspension is likely to increase the TM mass, it generally occurs simultaneously with westerly winds that induce a transverse circulation at the mouth of the estuary and then disperse the suspended material. The resulting effect is an output of material related to wind and wave events, more than to high river discharge. The mass of the computed TM remains stable over 6 months and independent of the river regime, depending mainly on the spring tide amplitude. Computed fluxes at different cross-sections of the lower estuary show the shift to the TM according to the river flow and point out the rapidity of the TM adjustment to any change of river discharge. The time for renewing the TM by riverine particles has been estimated to be one year.     

Retention of white perch and striped bass larvae: Biological-physical interactions in Chesapeake Bay estuarine turbidity maximum

Physical and biological properties of the Chesapeake Bay estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) region may influence retention and survival of anadromous white perch (Morone americana) and striped bass larvae (Morone saxatilis). To evaluate this hypothesis we collected data in five cruises, three during May 1998 and two during May 1999, in upper Chesapeake Bay. Time series of freshwater discharge, water temperature, wind, and water level explain differences in ETM location and properties between cruises and years. During high flows in 1998, a two-layer response to wind forcing shifted the ETM up-estuary, while a high discharge event resulted in a down-estuary shift in the salt front and ETM location. In 1999, extremely low discharge rates shifted the salt front 15 km up-estuary of its position in 1998. During 1999, the ETM was less intense and apparently topographically fixed. Gradients in depth-specific abundance of ichthyoplankton were compared with salinity and TSS concentrations along the channel axis of the upper Bay. During 1998, the high flow year, most striped bass eggs (75%) and most early-stage white perch larvae (80%) were located up-estuary of the salt front. In addition, most striped bass (91%) and white perch (67%) post-yolk-sac larvae were located within 10 km of maximum turbidity readings. Total abundance of white perch larvae was lower in 1999, a low freshwater flow year, than in 1998, a high flow year. In 1999, striped bass larvae were virtually absent. White perch (1977–1999) and striped bass (1968–1999) juvenile abundances were positively correlated with spring Susquehanna River discharge. The ETM regions is an important nursery area for white perch and striped bass larvae and life-history strategies of these species appear to insure transport to and within the ETM. We hypothesize that episodic wind and discharge events may modulate larval survival within years. Between years, differences in freshwater flow may influence striped bass and white perch survival and recruitment by controlling retention of egg and early-stage in the ETM region and by affecting the overlap of temperature/salinity zones preferred by later-stage larvae with elevated productivity in the ETM.     

Wind wave-forced fine sediment erosion during the slack water periods in Hangzhou Bay,China

The shallow water wave simulation model-SWAN incorporated with a simple fine sediment erosion model is applied to Hangzhou Bay, China, to model the horizontal distribution of the maximum bottom orbital velocity and corresponding fine sediment erosion rates induced by: (1) southeasterly steady winds (5, 20 and 30 m/s), (2) southwesterly steady winds (5 and 20 m/s); (3) northwesterly steady winds (5 and 20 m/s); (4) east-southeasterly steady winds (5 and 20 m/s); (5) easterly steady winds (5 and 20 m/s) under closed and unclosed boundaries; and (6) unsteady winds during the slack water periods. Results suggest: (1) the steady wind wave-induced maximum bottom orbital velocities and corresponding fine sediment erosion rates generally increased with the increasing steady winds; (2) closed and unclosed boundary conditions had more significant influences on modeled fine sediment erosion rates under 5 m/s easterly steady winds than 20 m/s; and (3) steady and unsteady wind wave-induced maximum bottom currents could be significant in eroding fine sediment bed in Hangzhou Bay. The results show implications for geomorphology, sedimentology, coastal erosion, and environmental pollution mitigation in Hangzhou Bay.     

Lateral Baroclinic Forcing Enhances Sediment Transport from Shallows to Channel in an Estuary

We investigate the dynamics governing exchange of sediment between estuarine shallows and the channel based on field measurements at eight stations spanning the interface between the channel and the extensive eastern shoals of South San Francisco Bay. The study site is characterized by longitudinally homogeneous bathymetry and a straight channel, with friction more important than the Coriolis forcing. Data were collected for 3 weeks in the winter and 4 weeks in the late summer of 2009, to capture a range of hydrologic and meteorologic conditions. The greatest sediment transport from shallows to channel occurred during a pair of strong, late-summer wind events, with westerly winds exceeding 10 m/s for more than 24 h. A combination of wind-driven barotropic return flow and lateral baroclinic circulation caused the transport. The lateral density gradient was produced by differences in temperature and suspended sediment concentration (SSC). During the wind events, SSC-induced vertical density stratification limited turbulent mixing at slack tides in the shallows, increasing the potential for two-layer exchange. The temperature- and SSC-induced lateral density gradient was comparable in strength to salinity-induced gradients in South Bay produced by seasonal freshwater inflows, but shorter in duration. In the absence of a lateral density gradient, suspended sediment flux at the channel slope was directed towards the shallows, both in winter and during summer sea breeze conditions, indicating the importance of baroclinically driven exchange to supply of sediment from the shallows to the channel in South San Francisco Bay and systems with similar bathymetry.     

Theoretical and measured aeolian sand transport on a barrier island, Louisiana, USA

Over the past 100 years, the Isles Dernieres, a low lying barrier island chain along the coast of central Louisiana, Usa , has undergone more than 1 km of northward beach face retreat with the loss of 70% of its surface area. The erosion results from a long term relative sea level rise coupled with day to day wind and wave action that ultimately favours erosion over deposition. At a site in the central Isles Dernieres, 8 days of wind and beach profile measurements during the passage of one winter cold front documented aeolian erosion and deposition patterns under both onshore and offshore winds. For offshore winds, the theoretical erosion rate, based on wind shear velocity, closely matched the measured erosion rate; for onshore winds, the theoretical rate matched the measured rate only after being corrected by a factor that accounted for beach face morphology. In late February 1989, a strong cold front moved into coastal Louisiana. That cold front stalled over the Gulf of Mexico, resulting in 4 days of strong northerly winds at a study site on the Isles Dernieres. During those 4 days, the wind moved sand from the backshore to the upper beach face. When the cold front finally moved out of the area, the wind shifted to the south and decreased in strength. The onshore wind then restored some of the upper beach face sand to the backshore while increased wave activity moved the rest into the nearshore. The theoretical estimate of 1·28 m³ m^?1 for the rate of sand transport by the northerly wind compares well with the measured backshore erosion rate of 1·26 m³ m^?1, which was determined by comparing beach profiles from the start and end of the period of northerly winds. The theoretical estimate of 0·04 m³ m^?1 for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind, however, is notably less than the measured rate of 0·45 m³ m^?1. The large discrepancy between the two rates can be explained by a difference in the shear velocity of the wind between the beach face, where the erosion occurred, and the backshore, where the wind stress was measured. Using an empirical relationship for the wind shear drag coefficient as a function of coastal environment, the theoretical estimate for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind becomes 0·44 m³ m^?1     

The Effect of River Discharge and Winds on the Interannual Variability of the Pink Shrimp <Emphasis Type="Italic">Farfantepenaeus paulensis</Emphasis> Production in Patos Lagoon

The Patos Lagoon estuary is an important environment for the life cycle of many species, including the pink shrimp Farfantepenaeus paulensis. This area acts as a nursery ground for the shrimp larvae, which are spawned in a coastal area and transported into the lagoon during spring and early summer (September to December). Harvesting of shrimp occurs from January to May, and yields have varied from around 1,000 to 8,000 tons year^?1. This study is based on analysis of river discharge, pink shrimp catches, and wind velocity time series from 1964 to 2004. Negative correlation between pink shrimp catches and river runoff reflects the influence of discharge on the lagoon circulation and, consequently, on the intrusion of salt water and larvae. When river discharge is below average, landward currents forced by SW winds can enhance larval transport into the estuarine area, leading to an increase in pink shrimp captures. Above average river input would force a seaward flow that works as a barrier to ingress of larvae. This is unusual when compared to many other estuarine systems, and the main factor that accounts for this behavior is the morphology (choking) of Patos Lagoon. Interannual variability related to El Niño/Southern Oscillation events also influence pink shrimp production in this area. Low/high shrimp catches are related to El Niño (flood)/La Niña (drought) events. Wind can also impact production through its effect on the southward displacement of larvae from the spawning area. Long-term trends indicate an increase in river discharge around 20 m³ s^?1year^?1 and a decrease in shrimp catches on the order of 57 tons year^?1.