日照石臼港人工岬湾海岸设计及稳定性研究

基于日照万平口海区三期水深地形调查资料、水动力及海底沉积物调查数据,研究了日照石臼港海域人工岬湾海滩建设前后波浪场的变化、沉积物在波浪作用下沿岸输运变化及海岸侵蚀冲淤特征,并模拟验证了人工沙滩建设后的平衡岸线,明确了不同长度防波堤建设后海滩的稳定性及其设计的合理性。结果表明:防波堤建设前研究区入射波浪与岸线有一定夹角,导致波浪作用下沉积物有由南向北输移的趋势;人工岬湾的建设可改变近岸波浪场,继而影响沿岸泥沙输运,对岸滩稳定有重要影响;海岸工程、波浪场及泥沙输运三者相互作用,是人工岬湾海岸稳定性的关键因素。     

岬湾海滩沉积动力地貌研究

岬湾海滩是砂质海岸稳定性及其演变的重要内容.介绍了岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型、海滩平衡剖面模式、海滩剖面主要类型的判别以及海岸泥沙运动,其中着重评述了现今岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型和海滩平衡剖面模式.通过它们的优缺点分析,认为人工神经网络模型是未来新型平面形态模型改进的方向;海滩平衡剖面模式分段使用,亦或2种或多种模式配合...     

华南沿海若干砂质海滩沉积物粒度特征的分析

根据2003年7月在华南沿海12个砂质海滩所取得的76个沉积物样品（其中次表层样品36个,不计入研究范围）,就该区的沉积物粒度特征展开论述。为了便于分析其沉积物粒度特征,我们把华南沿海12条海滩剖面根据岸滩形态和成因将华南砂质海岸划分为岬湾型砂质海岸、沙坝-渴湖型砂质海岸和夷直型砂质海岸三大类。阐述了不同类型海滩的表层沉积物的粒度特征、类型、分布以及粒度的沿程变化特征。     

海岛岬湾海滩稳定性分析——以长岛明珠广场海滩和荣成镆铘岛海滩为例

海滩是海岛海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的进一步开发利用和海滩养护具有重要意义。依据烟台长岛明珠广场海滩(人工沙滩)和威海荣成镆铘岛海滩剖面形态特征,结合表层沉积物粒度特征,分析了海滩剖面的稳定性,同时利用岬湾海滩静态平衡模型(MEPBAY),对两海滩平面形态的稳定性进行了分析和预测。结果表明:明珠广场海滩处于前滨严重侵蚀的不稳定态,镆铘岛海滩处于局部微侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,从海岛海滩地理特征、水动力环境、泥沙来源和人类活动等方面简单归纳了两个海滩的侵蚀原因。     

海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物与海滩稳定性分析

海滩是砂质海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的开发利用与保护具有重要意义。本文根据海口湾西海岸海滩表层沉积物粒度数据,阐述了该区域海滩沉积物的时空分布规律,并通过对比滩面高程数据和水下地形数据分析了该区域的岸滩稳定性。结果表明：海口湾西海岸海滩处于滩面微蚀的轻度不稳定态,其岸外浅滩处于边坡侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,根据波浪作用和泥沙来源进一步探讨了海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物动力机制及其海滩侵蚀的原因。     

粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

平衡岬湾理论在莱州湾东岸砂质海滩的应用分析

岬湾海岸是世界上分布最为广泛的海岸形态,其形态特征可以反映岸线的长期冲淤变化趋势,相应的理论模型被提出来用以模拟平衡状态的岸线形态。莱州湾东岸从龙口港至刁龙嘴发育4个典型的岬湾海滩,本文利用常见的3个岬湾模型模拟该处海滩形态,并分析各模型的适用性,结果显示抛物线模型模拟结果适合本研究区,通过模拟和现场调查发现该区域绝大部分岸段将仍然处于侵蚀状态,人为作用在岸线的冲淤演化中影响巨大。     

秋季东山乌礁湾海滩表层沉积物粒度特征分析

以东山乌礁湾为典型研究区,对海滩5条剖面表层沉积物进行样品采集(0~5 cm)和点位测量,综合应用激光法和筛析法进行粒度测定.结果表明秋季东山乌礁湾表层沉积物以粒径0.16~0.50 mm的砂为主,具有较好的分选性,符合岬湾砂质海滩表层沉积物的一般组分规律和分选特点;粒径分布表现出由南向北逐渐变细的区域差异性,主要是岬湾地形影响下的季节性风浪作用结果;从高潮带至中潮带站位主峰值粒径逐渐增大,粗粒含量增多,至低潮带主峰值粒径变小,粗粒含量降低,是近岸往复水动力作用和剖面地形作用的结果;总体看乌礁湾表层沉积物粒度分布主要受岬湾海岸地形特征和季风影响下的波浪、潮汐等水动力作用以及湾内局地物源输入的影响.     

静态平衡岬湾海岸理论中抛物线方程在海滩养护中的应用

岬湾海岸是全球重要的海岸地形,约占全球岸线的51%。岬间海滩又是岬湾海岸地形中最重要的组成部分。20世纪40年代以来,海洋地质学家和海岸工程师们对岬湾海岸做了大量的研究。尤其在20世纪80年代,有关抛物线形状海湾方程的成果发表和后来相关计算机软件的开发,都对判断岬湾岸线稳定性和预测岬头下游海岸的静态平衡起到至关重要的作用。详细介绍了静态平衡岬湾的概念,并且通过在由动态平衡向静态平衡转化、以岸外坝群保护平直沙岸、提高单岬或丁坝下游的稳定性等方面的具体应用,验证了方程的有效性。通过适当的人工构筑物,配合人工养滩,创造静态平衡的海滩,对海岸带的开发和保护具有重要意义。     

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

Study on headland-bay sandy coast stability in South China coasts

Headland-bay beach equilibrium planform has been a crucial problem abroad to long-term sandy beach evolution and stabilization,extensively applied to forecast long-term coastal erosion evolvement and the influences of coastal engineering as well as long-term coastal management and protection.However,little concern focuses on this in China.The parabolic relationship is the most widely used empirical relationship for determining the static equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches.This paper utilizes the relation to predict and classify 31 headland-bay beaches and concludes that these bays cannot achieve the ultimate static equilibrium planform in South China.The empirical bay equation can morphologically estimate beach stabilization state,but it is just a referential predictable means and is difficult to evaluate headland-bay shoreline movements in years and decades.By using Digital Shoreline Analysis System suggested by USGS,the rates of shoreline recession and accretion of these different headland-bay beaches are quantitatively calculated from 1990 to 2000.The conclusions of this paper include that (a) most of these 31 bays maintain relatively stable and the rates of erosion and accretion are relatively large with the impact of man-made constructions on estuarine within these bays from 1990 to 2000;(b) two bays,Haimen Bay and Hailingshan Bay,originally in the quasi-static equilibrium planform determined by the parabolic bay shape equation,have been unstable by the influence of coastal engineering;and (c) these 31 bays have different recession and accretion characters occurring in some bays and some segments.On the one hand,some bays totally exhibit accretion,but some bays show erosion on the whole.Shanwei Bay,Houmen Bay,Pinghai Bay and Yazhou Bay have the similar planforms,characterized by less accretion on the sheltering segment and bigger accretion on the transitional and tangential segments.On the other hand,different segments of some bays have two dissimilar evolvement characters.Dacheng Bay,Shenquan Bay,Hudong Bay,Wukan Bay,Fengjia Bay,Wuchang Bay,Lingshui Bay and Tufu Bay produce accretion on the tangential segment,erosion on the transitional segment and accretion on the sheltering segment.However,Guang’ao Bay,Haimen Bay,Jinghai Bay,Sanya Bay(a),Dajiao Bay,Hailingshan Bay,Hebei Bay,Fuhu Bay,Shuidong Bay,Wangcun Bay and Bomao Bay generate erosion on the tangential part,accretion on the transitional part and accretion on the sheltering part.It seems to imply some relations between headland-bay beach evolvement and controls on headland-bay beaches,which may possibly to classify headland-bay beach types and should be further studied.     

Numerical modeling of crenulate bay shapes

A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action.     

Hydrodynamics of a headland-bay beach—Nearshore current circulation

This paper is devoted to the analysis of the hydrodynamic equilibrium of a headland or semi-elliptic shaped beach. It is shown that the state of equilibrium depends not only on the in- and outgoing sediment but also on the accommodation of the sediment within the embayment. The shape and relative depth of shoals, or settling zones, also directly affect the wave and current patterns inside the bay, within which the resultant breaker line almost stops wave-induced currents at some locations, whereas the magnitude of current increases at other locations. Several numerical tests are analytically conducted in a semi-elliptic beach with two symmetrical shoals of varying relative depth where circulatory current systems are detected and analyzed. Numerical modelling for wave climate and wave-induced current estimation is also presented in order to corroborate results and provide a tool for complicated and/or physical domains. The results lead to a redefinition of the concept of equilibrium for headland-bay beaches taking into account not only the net sediment transport but also the role of the formation and disappearance of settling zones, as well as sediment interchanges between the beach and shoals.     

华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类

海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。     

Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts

The equation most commonly used to describe the bay planform was proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) and it was obtained through empirical analysis of sand beach planforms.In the last decade interest in gravel sediments increased owing to their greater stability on beaches, compared with sand sediments. Due to the differences between the morphodynamics of sand and gravel beaches, which is strictly influenced by their different hydraulic characteristics, it was necessary to create a predictive instrument for this beach type as well.Therefore, in this study the standard Hsu and Evans equation (1989) was modified in order to make it applicable not only to sand beaches but also to gravel beaches. The shoreline was computed according to a parabolic model in polar coordinates whose coefficients are considered linearly dependent on the wave direction and related to the beach type. The estimation of the free parameters of the model was performed according to a statistical analysis of a shorelines data set of Mediterranean sand and gravel embayed beaches.     

Application of empirical models to bay-shaped beaches in Portugal

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment.     

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.