一个湍能封闭模型对风暴潮海底底应力的应用研究

将一个三维湍能封闭模型应用于开阔海区的风暴潮，通过数值计算探讨了Ｔａｙｌｏｒ底摩擦二次率的拖曳系数随空间的分布及拖曳系数与水深、海底粗糙度、风向和风速等因素的关系。本文对底摩擦二次率的可靠性做了评价。     

Large eddy simulation of breaking waves

A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth.     

Turbidity currents on steep slopes: Application of an avalanche-type numeric model for ocean thermal energy conversion design

To minimize cold water pipe lengths, the most favorable land or fixed platform based Ocean Thermal Energy Conversions (OTEC) sites have subbottom slopes greater than 5°. Observations at OTEC sites in Hawaii indicate that turbidity currents of an impulsive or episodic nature can occur with frontal speeds of several meters per second. Such speeds and the attendant potential for sediment transport and abrasion along routes containing OTEC installations indicate that the pertinent features of these flows are an important design criteria for OTEC or any other steep-slope marine installation. To satisfy this need, models of oceanic turbidity flows and similar flows have been examined. The model that addresses OTEC steep-slope conditions most succinctly was developed originally by Hopfinger and Tochon-Danguy (1977) for snow avalanches on land. This two-dimensional avalanche model is used to estimate the speed and growth characteristics of potential turbidity currents downslope for various postulated marine conditions of initial flow density, height, volume, and length at slopes from 5 to 60°. The areas of additional research required to increase reliability of the analyses are in the initiation and initial development of a turbidity plume, the mechanisms of sediment entrainment to and loss from the plume, and three-dimensional in addition to two-dimensional studies.     

Forces and moment on a horizontal plate due to wave scattering

Wave reflection and transmission from a fixed horizontal plate have been widely studied but theoretical solutions are only available for certain limiting conditions. A general solution for this wave scattering problem is presented using the finite-element method, covering the whole range of relative depth ratio from shallow to deep water limits and submergence depth ratio from the water surface to the bed. Existing long-wave solutions for the surface plate and the submerged plate have been extended to obtain the hydrodynamic forces and overturning moment exerted on the plate. Results from the finite-element program compare well with these solutions. Variations of the reflection coefficient, wave forces and moment, with the plate width to wave length ratio, relative depth ratio and submergence depth ratio are discussed.     

一个概化的潮汐河口羽状流动力学的初步研究

基于区域陆架海水动力-生态耦合模型(COHERENS)中的三维水动力模型,对一个概化的潮汐河口羽状流动力学进行了初步研究。在均一水深和无风的理想条件下,模拟得到了一个潮周期内概化的潮汐河口表层水体:a)羽状流流场和盐度场的平面分布;b)3种不同河流径流量作用下的羽状流流场和盐度场的平面分布;c)4种不同底床粗糙长度下的羽状流流场和盐度场的平面分布。结果分析表明:a)羽状流的长度在潮汐的作用下递增,而其最大宽度近似呈周期性的变化;b)羽状流的长度和最大宽度都随着河流径流量的增大而分别变长和变宽;c)羽状流的长度和最大宽度都随底床粗糙长度的增大而变小;d)无潮情况下羽状流的凸起明显并存在沿岸流,然而在有潮情况下凸起不明显且无沿岸流;e)水平扩散可能限制了沿岸羽状流的发展。     

The normal force on a flat planing plate, including low length to beam ratios

A previous paper (Payne, 1980) developed the theory of a slender planing surface from first principles, and found it to agree with experiment without the need for “factors determined from experiments”. The theory broke down, however, for low wetted length to beam ratios because the flow is then no longer two-dimensional in character in respect to a section normal to the flow. It is in a transition to the condition where, at very small length to beam ratios, it is two-dimensional in a vertical plane parallel to the flow, rather than normal to it.In the present paper we determine, albeit somewhat heuristically, the virtual mass coefficient of a flat plate in the transition region. This is then employed to compute the normal force on a planing plate in both steady state and transient motion. For both conditions the agreement with the available experimental data is within the accuracy of the data.Both theory and experiment lead to the conclusion that certain traditional concepts in the of trim angle and Pierson's suggestion that ‘wetted length’ is more fundamental than the length of intersection with the still water surface. The widespread acceptance of this latter suggestion has meant that a key parameter in the present theory—the nominal or undisturbed water intersection length—is almost never measured in modern experiments. Thus, since we could not find any modern data, we had to appeal to the classical experimental papers which originated the scientific study of planing in the thirties and forties. Oddly, the earliest papers gave data which had much less scatter than the later papers.     

Interaction of ocean waves with floating and submerged horizontal flexible structures in three-dimensions

A three-dimensional general mathematical hydroelastic model dealing with the problem of wave interaction with a floating and a submerged flexible structure is developed based on small amplitude wave theory and linear structural response. The horizontal floating and submerged flexible structures are modelled with a thin plate theory. The linearized long wave equations based on shallow water approximations are derived and results are compared. Three-dimensional Green’s functions are derived using fundamental source potentials in water of finite and infinite depths. The expansion formulae associated with orthogonal mode-coupling relations are derived based on the application of Fourier transform in finite and infinite depths in case of finite width in three-dimensions. The usefulness of the expansion formula is demonstrated by analysing a physical problem of surface gravity wave interaction with a moored finite floating elastic plate in the presence of a finite submerged flexible membrane in three-dimensions. The numerical accuracy of the method is demonstrated by computing the complex values of reflected wave amplitudes for different modes of oscillation and mooring stiffness. Further, the effect of compressive force and modes of oscillations on a free oscillation hydroelastic waves in a closed channel of finite width and length for floating and submerged elastic plate system is analysed.     

Corrected Formula of Bed Resistance Coefficient for Plane Numerical Simulation of Tidal Current

By means of a logarithm law for the velocity profile,a corrected formula of bed resistancecoefficient,which involves many factors such as gradient of still water depth,variation of surfaceelevation,flow direction,and so on,is derived from the 3D governing equations of tidal current by aver-aging over the whole water depth.Theoretical analysis and application have shown that the 2D plane tidalcurrent numerical model would be more reasonable and could be applied to steep bottom topographywhen the corrected bed resistance coefficient is used,therefore the results of reproduction simulation andengineering calculation would be more scientific and reasonable.     

珠江磨刀门河口水位分布演变特征及其对人类活动的响应*

河口区水位受径流、潮汐、地形、人类活动等多因素影响, 其空间分布结构及变化复杂。作为河口动力结构的重要参数, 水位分布演变特征及机制的研究对水资源高效开发利用和河口治理具有重要指导意义。文章基于珠江磨刀门河口沿程马口、甘竹、江门、竹银、灯笼山和三灶6个测站1965—2016年月均余水位数据及马口站的月均流量数据, 分析人类活动影响下水位空间分布的异变, 采用双变量线性回归模型定量辨识水位分布异变的主要影响因素, 并初步讨论人类活动、动力结构、地形变化之间的相互耦合关系。结果表明, 基于平均水面形态变化参数(即曲率)可较好地指示河床冲淤变化趋势, 河段平均曲率为正, 指示河床趋于淤积, 曲率为负, 河床趋于冲刷侵蚀; 围垦、大规模挖沙、河道疏浚等强人类活动前, 磨刀门河口上、下段坡降大于中段(江门—甘竹段), 即中段存在一个水位坡降变缓的区域, 枯季低流量时中段水位坡降出现由海向陆方向的倒坡降, 强人类活动后, 余水位空间分布结构发生异变, 中段坡降增大、低流量时的逆坡降消失; 强人类活动引起的河床地形变化是磨刀门河口沿程水位空间形态发生变化的主要原因, 使口门段(三灶—竹银)和河口上段(甘竹—马口)水位曲率分别减小0.41×10^-4m·km^-2和1.04×10^-4m·km^-2, 河口中段(竹银—甘竹)水位曲率增大0.21×10^-4m·km^-2, 沿程曲率由正(下凹)-负(上凸)-正转变为负-正-负, 沿程河床也随之由淤积-冲刷-淤积趋势转变冲刷-淤积-冲刷趋势。     

Measurement of towed array position, shape, and attitude

A practical method is described for the three-dimensional determination of the position, shape, and attitude of a hydrophone array towed from a surface vessel. It provides successive snapshots of the array configuration with a maximum rate of about three per minute. The method is intended as an alternative to the use of fixed test ranges and provides results suitable for validating computer models of array motion. It uses the travel-time differences of impulsive waves measured across the array. The waves are generated by two explosive charges dropped from consorts. Results of a typical experiment are presented as an illustrative example. The array position relative to the tow ship is obtained to within an accuracy of a few metres     

Tsunami simulation with Green–Naghdi theory

Green–Naghdi (GN) theory is a fully nonlinear wave theory which has been used with success to simulate nonlinear water waves. In previous applications of GN theory to water wave problems the ocean bottom was assumed to be time invariant. In this work no such restriction is made and GN theory is used to simulate tsunami caused by bottom fluctuation. As first test cases we simulate two-dimensional nonlinear surface waves generated by positive bottom movements. The results in the generation region for three different seabed movements compare well against earlier experimental data. The results in the downstream region for impulsive seabed movements show some discrepancies in wave phase and amplitude compared with earlier experimental values. It is suspected that the viscous effects may have played a role. The GN theory is then used to study three-dimensional near-field tsunami amplitudes caused by submarine landslides and slumps spreading in two orthogonal directions. The GN results agree with previous linear solution very well when the ratio of the velocities is v₁/v₂=1.0. But GN theory give more believable results for the case of v_T/v=0.1 and v₁/v₂=0.1.     

Propagation of a solitary wave over rigid porous beds

The unsteady two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and Navier–Stokes type model equations for porous flows were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of a solitary wave over porous beds. The free surface boundary conditions and the interfacial boundary conditions between the water region and the porous bed are in complete form. The incoming waves were generated using a piston type wavemaker set up in the computational domain. Accuracy of the numerical model was verified by comparing the numerical results with the theoretical solutions. The main characteristics of the flow fields in both the water region and the porous bed were discussed by specifying the velocity fields. Behaviors of boundary layer flows in both fluid and porous bed regions were also revealed. Effects of different parameters on the wave height attenuation were studied and discussed. The results of this numerical model indicate that for the investigated incident wave as the ratio of the porous bed depth to the fluid depth exceeds 10, any further increase of the porous bed depth has no effect on wave height attenuation.     

The interaction of surface water waves with submerged breakwaters

This paper concerns the behaviour of nonlinear regular waves interacting with rectangular submerged breakwaters. A new series of experimental results is presented and compared with numerical calculations based upon a Boundary Element Method (BEM) that utilises multiple fluxes to deal with the discontinuities encountered at the corners of the domain. Specifically, comparisons concern both the spatial water surface profiles at various times and the spatial evolution of the harmonics generated by the breakwaters, the latter being an important focus for the paper. The BEM is shown to accurately model both the water surface profile and the harmonic generation, provided the breakwater width is sufficient to ensure that flow separation is not a controlling influence. Furthermore, evidence is provided to confirm that reflection from rectangular submerged breakwaters is fundamentally a linear phenomenon.     

Simulating offshore sand waves

Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabeds of sandy shallow seas and pose a threat to a range of offshore activities. A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) flow and morphological simulation model describing the behaviour of these sand waves has been developed. The simulation model contains the 2DV shallow water equations, with a free water surface and a general bed load formula. The water movement is coupled to the sediment transport equation with a seabed evolution equation. The domain is non-periodic in both directions. The spatial discretisation is performed by a spectral method based on Chebyshev polynomials. A fully implicit method is chosen for the discretisation in time. Firstly, we validate the simulation model mathematically by reproducing the results obtained using a linear stability analysis for infinitely small sand waves. Hereby, we investigate a steady current situation induced by a wind stress applied at the sea surface. The bed forms we find have wavelengths in the order of hundreds of metres when the resistance at the seabed is relatively large. The results show that it is possible to model the initial evolution of sand waves with a numerical simulation model. This paper forms the necessary first step to investigate the intermediate term behaviour of sand waves.     

基于遥感数据的三维温度场参数化分析方法研究

为了满足海洋研究以及海洋调查的需求,本文基于Argo剖面和海表面温度数据开发了一个新的拟合三维温度场的算法。选取西北太平洋区域作为验证算法有效的实验海区。该水域的经纬度范围设定为：30°～40°N, 140°～155°E, 水平分辨率为0.25°。深度方向为从海表到2 000 m水深,水域划分为29层。拟合算法首先将Argo温度剖面以5个深度划分为6层,分别为混合层、夹层、温跃层、过渡层、第一深层、第二深层,然后以第一猜想值和线性回归得到的海表面温度作为初始条件重构三维温度场。重构的三维温度场的剖面与原观测剖面的均方根误差较小,相关性较好,表明该算法是合理有效的。     

钱塘江强潮河段江道缩窄治理研究

对钱塘江强潮河段江道缩窄治理进行研究。首先,回顾治理方案的比选,江道全线缩窄时河轴线线路和河道宽度的确定原则,以及不同河段的指数放宽率。然后,介绍了在涌潮汹涌、滩涂淤坍变化剧烈的强潮河段,实施筑堤所采取的工程措施的步序与要点。最后,分析论证了大规模江道缩窄治理后河床、潮汐、洪水位及涌潮高度等特征值的变化。可供进一步深入理论研究和工程施工参考运用。     

Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave: Part 2: Forms and evolution of coherent structures

The instantaneous turbulent velocity field produced by a broken solitary wave propagating on a 1 in 50 plane slope was measured in the longitudinal transverse plane in the middle part of the water column and near the bottom using a stereoscopic particle image velocimetry system. These measurements showed that large-scale turbulence first arrived in the form of a downburst of turbulent fluid. In the middle of the water column, the downbursts arrived shortly after the wave crest had passed. Each downburst was accompanied by two counter-rotating vortices. The latter grew rapidly in size to become a prominent feature of the flow field. Each vortex had a typical length scale of 1/2 to 1 water depth, and carried most of the turbulent kinetic energy in the region between the vortices. Near the bottom, the counter-rotating vortices were not as well defined and covered only a small plane area compared to the entire flow structure. The turbulent fluid descending from above diverged at the bed and the resulting flow structure developed an elongated shape as the source of down-flow travelled onshore with the broken wave. It was found that the transverse spacing between adjacent downbursts ranged from 2 to 5 times the local still water depth. Since vortices cannot end in the interior of the fluid, the counter-rotating vortices must extend to the free surface in the form of a vortex loop. It was suggested that these vortex loops were produced by bending and stretching of primary vorticity generated in the wave breaking process, possibly as a result of three-dimensional water surface deformation. The vortex loops were then carried downward by the falling water from the broken wave.     

Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave

The structure of large-scale turbulence under a broken solitary wave on a 1 in 50 plane slope was studied. Three-component velocity measurements were taken at different heights above a smooth bed in the middle surf zone using an acoustic Doppler velocimeter. The measured data showed that turbulent velocity components were well correlated in the middle part of the water column. The velocity correlations could be produced by an oblique vortex similar to the obliquely descending eddy observed previously by other investigators. The vertical distributions of the relative values of the components of the Reynolds stress tensor showed that the structure of turbulence evolved continuously between the free surface and the bottom. The evolution was related to transition from two-dimensional to three-dimensional flow structures and the effect of the solid bottom on flow structures. Time histories of measured turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses showed episodic turbulent events near the free surface but more sporadic turbulence in the lower layer. Large or intense turbulent events were found to have short duration and time lag relative to the wave crest point. These events also maintained good correlations between the turbulence velocity components close to the bottom.Instantaneous turbulent velocity fields were measured near the bottom at the same cross-shore location by using a stereoscopic particle image velocimetry system. These measurements showed that the near-bed flow field was characterized by large-scale, coherent flow structures that were the sources of most of the turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses. The types of organized flow structures observed included vortices and downbursts of turbulence descending directly from above, lateral spreading of turbulent fluid along the bed, and formation of vortices in shear layers between fluid streams. A common feature of the organized flow structures near the bed was the large turbulence velocities in the longitudinal and transverse directions, which reflected the influence of a solid bottom on the breaking-wave-generated turbulence arriving at the bed.     

长江河口区边界层参数的观测与分析

2003年11月在长江口南槽用ADCP进行定点水文观测,结果表明研究区为不规则半日潮,在水流转向期流速较低时常出现悬沙浓度峰值。根据流速对数剖面分布模型与悬沙分布模型,分别计算了海底边界层参数,其中潮周期内摩阻流速可达0.15 m/s,粗糙长度为0.01~1.2 m,拖曳系数为10-3~10-4,边界层厚度为2~4 m,悬沙的沉降速率为0.2~6 mm/s。     

Propagation of water waves over permeable rippled beds

Unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and Navier-Stokes type model equations for porous flow were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of water waves over a permeable rippled bed. A boundary-fitted coordinate system was adopted to make the computational meshes consistent with the rippled bed. The accuracy of the numerical scheme was confirmed by comparing the numerical results concerning the spatial distribution of wave amplitudes over impermeable and permeable rippled beds with the analytical solutions. For periodic incident waves, the flow field over the wavy wall is discussed in terms of the steady Eulerian streaming velocity. The trajectories of the fluid particles that are initially located close to the ripples were also determined. One of the main results herein is that under the action of periodic water waves, fluid particles on an impermeable rippled bed initially moved back and forth around the ripple crest, with increasing vertical distance from the rippled wall. After one or two wave periods, they are then lifted towards the next ripple crest. All of the marked particles on a permeable rippled bed were shifted onshore with a much larger displacement than those on an impermeable bed. Finally, the flow fields and the particle motions close to impermeable and permeable beds induced by a solitary wave are elucidated.