Morphodynamic evolution of a coastal lagoon entrance during swash overwash

New field observations of beach berm growth resulting in the sub-aerial closure of an intermittently closed and open lake or lagoon are presented. These perched estuarine systems frequently exhibit ephemeral entrances that respond to process forcing almost instantaneously on a geomorphic timescale, with closure by a supra-tidal berm of depositional origin. The observations were made following a mechanical opening of the entrance and show very rapid vertical growth of an initially low beach berm as a result of swash overtopping and sediment overwash. Very little simultaneous seaward progradation was observed. Sediment overwash volumes were obtained from survey data over a period of 12 days either side of spring tide and the observations also provide an accurate measure of swash sediment transport at the berm crest. A process-based parametric model is developed through robust parameterisations of wave run-up, wave run-up distributions and sediment transport and is applied to predict the total overwash transport into and infilling the estuary entrance. The model is tested against the field data and compares well with the observations. While the field data are site-specific, the proposed modelling framework represents a first step in modelling the complex growth and recovery of natural beach berms in broad-scale morphodynamic models.     

Internal structure of a barrier beach as revealed by ground penetrating radar (GPR): Chesil beach, UK

Chesil Beach (Dorset) is one of the most famous coastal landforms on the British coast. The gravel beach is over 18 km long and is separated for much of its length from land by a tidal lagoon known as The Fleet. The beach links the Isle of Portland in the east to the mainland in the west. Despite its iconic status there is little available information on its internal geometry and evolutionary history. Here we present a three-fold model for the evolution of Chesil Beach based on a series of nine ground penetrating radar (GPR) traverses located at three sites along its length at Abbotsbury, Langton Herring and at Ferry Bridge. The GPR traverses reveal a remarkably consistent picture of the internal structure of this barrier beach. The first phase of evolution involves the landward transgression of a small sand and gravel beach which closed upon the coast leading to deposition of freshwater peat between 5 and 7 k yr BP. The second evolutionary phase involves the ‘bulking-out’ of the beach during continued sea level rise, but in the presence of abundant gravel supplied by down-drift erosion of periglacial slope deposits. This episode of growth was associated with a series of washover fans which accumulated on the landward flank of the barrier increasing its breadth and height but without significant landward transgression of the barrier as a whole. The final phase in the evolution of Chesil Beach involves the seaward progradation of the beach crest and upper beach face associated with continued sediment abundance, but during a still-stand or slight fall in relative sea level. This phase may provide further evidence of a slight fall in relative sea level noted elsewhere along the South Coast of Britain and dated to between 1.2 and 2.4 k yr BP. Subsequently the barrier appears to have become largely inactive, except for the reworking of sediment on the beach face during storm events. The case study not only refines the evolutionary picture of Chesil Beach, but illustrates the importance of the subtle interplay between relative sea level and sediment supply in the evolution of a barrier system. In addition, it also illustrates the potential of GPR in resolving the evolutionary history of gravel-rich coastal landforms such as Chesil Beach.     

琼州海峡水沙输运特征研究

根据1995年2～3月在琼州海峡两岸12个站点的同步观测资料,本文集中分析研究了海峡的水沙输运特征。琼州海峡潮流作用活跃,流速平均在015～074ms^-1(大潮)和012～051ms^-1(小潮)之间。海峡悬沙浓度大小潮十分接近(分别为0028kgm^-3、0026kgm^-3),并具有明显的时间性和地域性。周日单宽悬沙输运量在30～11000kg之间。潮流和波浪产生的泥沙再悬浮对海峡含沙量有较大影响,潮流作用还造成底质沉积物的运动,海峡周日单宽推移质输运率最大可达16400kg。受潮波系统和地形地貌影响,海峡北岸输水、输沙方向以西向为主,南岸以东北、东南向为主,流速、余流、悬沙输运通量皆具有大潮强于小潮,北岸强于南岸的特点     

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岬角南、北两侧的淇水湾和月亮湾海岸海滩均为中粗砂海滩,其中值粒径和平均粒径主要分布在0~2 Ф之间,反映了海南岛东部动力作用整体较强。月亮湾近岸20 m水深处沉积物的中值粒径主要分布在-1~-3 Ф之间,主要以砾石为主;10~20 m水深处沉积物中值粒径分布在-1~0 Ф之间,以极粗砂为主;铜鼓岭南部淇水湾,以粗砂为主,部分区域出现细砂,反映海滩受到的动力条件不如北部月亮湾海岸海滩显著。造成这种差异的主要原因是铜鼓岭岬角对东北向(主风向)风浪的阻挡和岬角南部港湾有宽广的珊瑚礁平台对波浪的消能。而且,淇水湾海岸北部和南部也有差异,北部珊瑚礁平台受到破坏,对波浪的消浪较弱,从而表现同一海滩滩面物质分布的南北差异。     

Salt tectonics driven by differential sediment loading: stability analysis and finite-element experiments

At many continental margins, differential sediment loading on an underlying salt layer drives salt deformation and has a significant impact on the structural evolution of the basin. We use 2‐D finite‐element modelling to investigate systems in which a linear viscous salt layer underlies a frictional‐plastic overburden of laterally varying thickness. In these systems, differential pressure induces the flow of viscous salt, and the overburden experiences updip deviatoric tension and downdip compression. A thin‐sheet analytical stability criterion for the system is derived and is used to predict conditions under which the sedimentary overburden will be unstable and fail, and to estimate the initial velocities of the system. The analytical predictions are in acceptable agreement with initial velocity patterns of the numerical models. In addition to initial stability analyses, the numerical model is used to investigate the subsequent finite deformation. As the systems evolve, overburden extension and salt diapirism occur in the landward section and contractional structures develop in the seaward section. The system evolution depends on the relative widths of the salt basin and the length scale of the overburden thickness variation. In narrow salt basins, overburden deformation is localised and characterised by high strain rates, which cause the system to reach a gravitational equilibrium and salt movement to cease earlier than for wide salt basins. Sedimentation enhances salt evacuation by maintaining a differential pressure in the salt. Continued sedimentary filling of landward extensional basins suppresses landward salt diapirism. Sediment progradation leads to seaward propagation of the landward extensional structures and depocentres. At slow sediment progradation rates, the viscous flow can be faster than the sediment progradation, leading to efficient salt evacuation and salt weld formation beneath the landward section. Fast sediment progradation suppresses the viscous flow, leaving salt pillows beneath the prograding wedge.     

大河口潮滩地貌动力过程的研究-- 以长江口为例

该文阐述河口潮滩的发育依赖于河流泥沙来源、河口动力和海底地形诸方面的有利条件.长江口潮滩在世界大河三角洲潮滩发育中独具特色.大河口潮滩的平面形态有“长条状”、“裙状”、“沙咀状”和“江心洲”型,横剖面形态有“宽缓型”、“陡岸型”和“侵蚀崖型”.主河道两侧潮滩水流基本上是往复流,但岛屿面向外海一侧的潮滩是旋转流.潮滩近底流速随着高程的增大而减小.虽然潮汐始终是潮滩水动力的控制因子,但径流起着加强落潮流和改变流速不对称性的作用.潮滩上的波能随风力、水深、滩坡和植被状况而变化.长江口潮滩水体属高浑浊水体,悬沙浓度变化于每升几百毫克至每升几万毫克之间.在总体迅速淤涨的背景下,大河口潮滩存在不同时间尺度的冲淤循环.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars in wave-dominated coastal settings — A review

Intertidal bar systems are ubiquitous features on wave-dominated beaches in coastal settings with a significant (> 1 m) tidal range. Depending primarily on the wave conditions and the tidal range, and to a lesser extent on the nearshore gradient, they can assume a variety of forms. Slip-face bars represent the most pronounced and dynamic intertidal bar morphology, and are generally found on their own around the mean high tide level. They usually form low on the intertidal beach after storm-induced beach erosion and develop into a berm under prolonged calm wave conditions. Low-amplitude ridges and sand waves represent multiple bar morphologies. The bars occur across the entire intertidal profile and they remain present throughout the year. Multiple intertidal bars tend to be rather subdued and relatively static, especially sand waves, and their origin remains unclear.The morphological response of intertidal bars to changing wave conditions is largely forced: bars build up and migrate onshore under calm waves, and are flattened and may migrate offshore during storms. The morphological response is, however, significantly affected by relaxation time effects and morphological feedback, particularly on beaches with multiple intertidal bars. Despite their morphological differences, the intertidal bar types exhibit pronounced similarities in their morphodynamics. Sediment transport processes and morphological response are principally controlled by the tidal water levels on the beach, because these, together with the offshore wave energy level and the beach morphology, determine the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.It is the dominant importance of tidal water level variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar morphodynamics.     

Estuarine shore platforms in Whanganui Inlet, South Island, New Zealand

Whanganui Inlet is a low mesotidal environment where wave energy at the shoreline is limited due to a small fetch, a narrow entrance and tidal flat accretion to intertidal elevations. Wave energy is therefore only an erosive force at high tide and under storm conditions. Despite this low-energy environment extensive shore platforms occur within the inlet. They are sub-horizontal and range in width from 4.1 to 185.2 m with an average of 44.9 m. All the platforms are formed in sandstone of low resistance (mean N-type Schmidt Hammer rebound value of 17 ± 8) and have their seaward edges buried by intertidal sediment flats. The majority of platforms occur at around MHWN level, corresponding to the elevation of those flats. Where wave energy is highest, opposite the inlet's entrance and at those sites with the largest fetch, platforms develop to 0.5–1.0 m below MSL. A higher platform level is also found at MHWS elevations, however it appears to be relict with active erosion of its seaward edge occurring and therefore is most likely related to a higher mid-Holocene sea level. Apart from the location of the lowest platforms little correspondence is found between platform morphology and wave energy. Platform evolution appears to be intrinsically linked to the intertidal sediment flats which determine the degree of surface saturation of the bedrock and, hence, the number of wetting and drying cycles the platforms may undergo. As the seaward edge is buried platform development is primarily through retreat of the landward cliff. This process can, however, be complicated by the migration of intertidal water channels onto the seaward edge of the platforms or relative sea level fall which may rejuvenate landward retreat of the low-tide cliff.     

Dynamic modelling of passive margin salt tectonics: effects of water loading, sediment properties and sedimentation patterns

We investigate the evolution of passive continental margin sedimentary basins that contain salt through two‐dimensional (2D) analytical failure analysis and plane‐strain finite‐element modelling. We expand an earlier analytical failure analysis of a sedimentary basin/salt system at a passive continental margin to include the effects of submarine water loading and pore fluid pressure. Seaward thinning sediments above a weak salt layer produce a pressure gradient that induces Poiseuille flow in the viscous salt. We determine the circumstances under which failure at the head and toe of the frictional–plastic sediment wedge occurs, resulting in translation of the wedge, landward extension and seaward contraction, accompanied by Couette flow in the underlying salt. The effects of water: (i) increase solid and fluid pressures in the sediments; (ii) reduce the head to toe differential pressure in the salt and (iii) act as a buttress to oppose failure and translation of the sediment wedge. The magnitude of the translation velocity upon failure is reduced by the effects of water. The subsequent deformation is investigated using a 2D finite‐element model that includes the effects of the submarine setting and hydrostatic pore pressures. The model quantitatively simulates a 2D approximation of the evolution of natural sedimentary basins on continental margins that are formed above salt. Sediment progradation above a viscous salt layer results in formation of landward extensional basins and listric normal growth faults as well as seaward contraction. At a later stage, an allochthonous salt nappe overthrusts the autochthonous limit of the salt. The nature and distribution of major structures depends on the sediment properties and the sedimentation pattern. Strain weakening of sediment favours landward listric growth faults with formation of asymmetric extensional depocentres. Episodes of low sediment influx, with partial infill of depocentres, produce local pressure gradients in the salt that result in diapirism. Diapirs grow passively during sediment aggradation.     

Observations of sea ice influence on the littoral sediment exchange,North Zealand,Denmark

Nielsen, Niels: Observations of sea ice influence on the littoral sediment exchange, North Zealand, Denmark. Geografisk Tidsskrift 88:61–67. Copenhagen. 1988.

In 1985 and 1986 monthly surveys of sediment volumes were carried out on a sandy beach and its nearshore platform at the north coast of Zealand. Both winters in the research period had temperatures below average, and consequently abundant sea ice formations. ‘Ice winters’ in open Danish waters occur statistically about 1/3 of the winters. The appearance of sea ice resulted in marked loss of sediment from the whole littoral zone, but by far the largest net erosion could be detected on the nearshore plane. An important factor is assumed to be the interaction of waves with the icefoot and ice pile-ups. For the beach itself, ice-glazing of the beach surface and interstitial frost in the foreshore sediments caused wave erosion within and just off the swash zone due to variations of the percolation parameter. This dynamic was observed during both the freeze-up and thaw-up periods. On the backshore, wind-derived forms characterized the winter beach, but here the net sediment budget was less affected.     

基于GPR图像的河北昌黎海岸横向沙脊北段沉积构造及其成因

运用探地雷达对河北昌黎海岸带横向沙脊的沉积构造进行探测,通过对探地雷达探测影像进行处理与解译,获得海岸沙丘约20 m深度范围内的海岸横向沙脊沉积构造图像,包括沉积层理的倾向、倾角与平面展布信息等。研究发现,昌黎海岸横向沙脊北段的沉积构造主要由高角度交错层理和波状交错层理组成,两者之间界面应为古海滩沿岸沙坝的顶面。界面以上发育稳定的向SWW倾斜的高角度交错层理,倾角约为30°~32°,为向岸风作用形成的前积层理;横向沙脊的丘顶可见槽状交错层理,可能是沙丘脊顶部沉积作用对风向季节性变化的响应。界面以下波状交错层理发育,为波浪作用形成的海滩沉积构造。结合前人对探测区地层调查以及全新世晚期以来海岸线变迁研究成果综合分析,认为海岸横向沙脊是大约2000 aBP以来,以澙湖海滩沿岸沙坝为基础经长期风力吹扬作用持续增长而发育的风成沙丘。     

长江河口悬沙的运动方式与沉积形态特征分析

长江河口为三级分汊四口入海的中等潮汐强度的三角洲河口。长江河口的悬沙输运有净上移、净下泄、上层下泄而下层上溯、潮滩与主槽之间的泥沙交换及涨潮槽泥沙倒灌落潮槽等五种形式。根据悬沙沉积的不同地点不同沉积形态可分为暗沙、拦门沙、口外水下三角洲以及河口潮滩四种类型。     

波控岬间海滩剖面短期变化过程分析

利用粤东寮咀口岬间海滩重复测量的剖面数据，通过经验特征函数及主要空间函数的分析和功率谱估计分析，结果表明，海滩剖面主要由2个空间模式构成：前滨模式和滩肩模式。空间模式在时域上具有一定的振荡周期。其中，前滨模式以4天的准周期变化为主，滩肩模式则有2．8天的准周期性变化。此外，影响海滩剖面短期变化的主要动力因素是波浪，台风大浪则是剖面迅速变化的直接驱动力。     

南极潮汐测量及区域潮汐对冰架表面流速影响的研究进展综述

南极区域潮汐是计算南极物质平衡和南极冰架表面冰流速的重要影响因素,同时对于研究冰架崩解和全球气候变暖具有重要作用。南极潮汐测量的方法从最初的实时测量,发展到了卫星测高和遥感监测以及建立数值模型预测的阶段。已有研究表明潮汐周期与冰架表面流速间存在一定关联,例如Filchner-Ronne冰架和Ross冰架的潮汐变化与冰流速度的联系为:在大潮时冰流速度达到最快,小潮时冰流速度达到最慢。研究还对南极典型冰架区域潮汐特征及对冰架表面冰流速、高程变化等的影响进行了总结。今后的研究不仅需要继续关注西南极和南极半岛的潮汐变化,更加需要对东南极稀疏的区域进行潮汐观测,这对于构建整个南极潮汐数据库和提高数值模型的精度具有重要意义。     

Evolution and Morphodynamics of a Prograded Beach‐Ridge Foreland,Northern Baffin Island,Canadian Arctic Archipelago

Landward retreat (marine transgression) is a common response of coastal systems to rising relative sea level. However, given sufficient sediment supply, the coast may advance seaward. The latter response of gravel barriers has been recorded in parts of southeastern and northwestern Canada, where seaward‐rising sets of beach ridges are observed in areas of Holocene RSL rise. Cape Charles Yorke, northern Baffin Island, is a 5 km long gravel foreland characterized by seaward‐rising beach‐ridge crest elevations. The prograded morphology of the Cape Charles Yorke foreland is a prime example of coastal response to a combination of rising RSL and abundant sediment supply, an unusual and little‐documented pattern in the Canadian Arctic. The main gravel supply to Cape Charles Yorke is likely from eroding bedrock and raised marine deposits southwest of the foreland. Although not the dominant sediment source, the Cape Charles Yorke delta contributed to the formation of the foreland by sheltering it from easterly storm waves and providing an anchor point for the prograding ridges. The truncation of relict ridges by the modern shoreline suggests a recent regime shift from continuous deposition to predominant erosion. The cause and timing of this shift are unknown but could result from a recent dwindling in sediment supply, increased accommodation space, increased wave energy, and/or an accelerated rise of relative sea level.     

Relation between beachface morphology and wave climate at Trafalgar beach (Cádiz, Spain)

Two years of offshore wave data and daily time exposure images from Trafalgar beach, a 2-km-long sandy beach located on the southwest coast of Spain that frequently exhibits rhythmic features, were used to (1) explore the variability of the beachface morphology and (2) determine environmental conditions associated with the different morphological states. The beachface morphology at three distinct alongshore sectors was analyzed and classified and five different morphological states were found that are related with the presence or absence of beach cusps and a berm: (1) large beach cusps, (2) small beach cusps, (3) low-tide terrace; (4) plane beach berm and (5) plane beach. The predominant beachface morphology is characterized by the presence of large beach cusps, and the main wave climate consisted of offshore significant wave heights ranging from 0.5–1 m and wave periods between 4 and 12 s. An alongshore variation of the morphology is found which might be related to the nearshore wave variability (SWAN wave model results). The morphologies are, in some cases, well-correlated with the daily offshore incident wave climate (described by the daily maximum significant wave height and the corresponding period), particularly for the moderate to high energy wave conditions. Small beach cusps appear under short period waves, whereas when the wave periods are longer the morphology tends to change to large beach cusps. This transition only occurs if the forcing is maintained as constant for a certain duration, which depends itself on the wave energy. It is concluded that correlations over 90% are only found for the highest wave energy conditions or under long wave periods. For the remainder, it is not possible to generally correlate the beachface morphology based only on the wave forcing because the previous morphological state cannot be ignored.     

潮汐作用下的风沙运动过程研究进展

潮汐作用下的滩面干湿交替是影响风沙运动的重要过程之一。从潮汐作用干湿交替影响下的海滩表层湿度时空变化及其对滩面风沙运动的影响、潮汐作用干湿交替影响下的海滩风区长度变化及其对滩面风沙运动的影响等方面,较为系统地概括和总结了关于潮汐作用下海滩风沙运动过程的研究进展和主要成果。主要结论为：（1）表层湿度与潮汐水位变化之间的关系是非线性的,存在地下水和毛细作用双重的滞后效应;（2）海滩临界起沙风速随表层湿度的变化关系在低于临界表层湿度时正相关,超过临界表层湿度则滩面风沙活动近乎停滞;（3）海滩风沙输送量随风区长度的变化关系按达到平衡状态前、中、后,可分为正相关、不相关和负相关3个不同的阶段。最后,针对当前国内外潮汐-海滩风沙作用模式的研究现状,提出中国未来急需加强的研究方向。     

Decadal-scale variation in dune erosion and accretion rates: An investigation of the significance of changing storm tide frequency and magnitude on the Sefton coast, UK

Monitoring of frontal dune erosion and accretion on the Sefton coast in northwest England over the past 50 years has revealed significant spatial and temporal variations. Previous work has shown that the spatial variations primarily reflect longshore differences in beach and nearshore morphology, energy regime and sediment budget, but the causes of temporal variations have not previously been studied in detail. This paper presents the results of work carried out to test the hypothesis that a major cause of temporal variation is changes in the frequency and magnitude of storms, surges and resulting high tides. Dune toe erosion/accretion records dating from 1958 have been compared with tide gauge records at Liverpool and Heysham. Relatively high dune erosion rates at Formby Point 1958–1968 were associated with a relatively large number of storm tides. Slower erosion at Formby, and relatively rapid accretion in areas to the north and south, occurred during the 1970's and 1980's when there were relatively few major storm tides. After 1990 rates of dune erosion at Formby increased again, and dunes to the north and south experienced slower accretion. During this period high storm tides have been more frequent, and the annual number of hours with water levels above the critical level for dune erosion has increased significantly. An increase in the rate of mean sea-level rise at both Liverpool and Heysham is evident since 1990, but we conclude that this factor is of less importance than the occurrence of extreme high tides and wave action associated with storms. The incidence of extreme high tides shows an identifiable relationship with the lunar nodal tidal cycle, but the evidence indicates that meteorological forcing has also had a significant effect. Storms and surges in the eastern Irish Sea are associated with Atlantic depressions whose direction and rate of movement have a strong influence on wind speeds, wave energy and the height of surge tides. However, preliminary analysis has indicated only a modest relationship between dune erosion/accretion rates and the North Atlantic Oscillation index.     

华南港湾海岸的地貌特征

本文根据作者参加华南海岸和港口调查研究的体会,对华南现代海岸的形成条件和港湾海岸的地貌特点进行分析。     

海南岛珊瑚岸礁的特征

本文分析了海南岛珊瑚岸礁的成礁环境,论述了本岛岸礁的结构特征,进而划分了岸礁类型,最后探讨岸礁发育与海平面变化的关系。