理想海域中台风引起的潮、流及波的分析 I 开阔海域的情况

采用理论分析与数值计算相结合的方法研究了理想开阔海域中的台风暴潮模型,讨论了开阔海域中移行台风下的海洋响应。分析表明,在开阔的浅海域,台风下的海洋运动以地转流为主,同时又激发出振幅较小的重力惯性流。重力惯性波是由于台风强度或移速的突然变化引起的,其波速通常大于台风移速。台风气压场造成海面升高且基本符合“静压效应”,但产生的正压流场非常微弱。伴随强风的气旋性风场造成的海面下降在台风经过之后可以维持很长时间,从而在台风后面形成一个长达几百公里的尾迹。而台风风应力和气压梯度力的总效果是在台风正前方造成海面上升,正后方造成海面下降。     

Air-sea interaction including a shallow and coastal zone

We performed special experimental and theoretical research concerning the energy--mass exchange process in shallow waters, which took into account the influence of the basin depth on the evaporation and sensible heat exchange. Data was obtained from deep water basins, as well as from shallow waters, at an open sea, as well as in its coastal zone. A new parameterization model of evaporation and friction velocity from shallow water surfaces under different wind velocities was investigated. Results of models and measurements of the energy/mass exchange intensity of a small shallow lake (LITFASS-experiments) were compared. The validation of these models with the eddy-covariance measurements of the LITFASS-98 and LITFASS-2003 experiments showed good results for the wind sector, with good fetch conditions. Therefore, the models examined may be used for calculating the evaporation of lakes where a standard data set of wind velocity, air and water temperature, air moisture and the depth of the lake is available. It should be remembered that in a coastal zone the roughness of the water surface is transformed and therefore there are additional calculation difficulties for the intensity of the energy-mass exchange. Based on our experimental data of the basin depth influence on the water-atmosphere exchange, a new model for the calculation of the energy-mass exchange in a coastal zone was developed. Our new model in combination with the empirical dependence for the calculation of the energy-mass exchange in a coastal zone allows calculation of the momentum, heat and humidity fluxes values at different distances from a shore.     

Semi‐diurnal internal wave diffraction caused by Dixon Entrance,British Columbia

Abstract

To develop an understanding of the complex internal tidal phenomena observed near and inside Dixon Entrance, an idealized numerical model was developed for the area, which explores the influence of various topographic features on the scattering of internal tides. The model uses a non‐linear, two‐layered, frictionless finite difference formulation of the shallow water equations and is forced by a barotropic wave over simplified topography. It was found that the main bathymetric features responsible for the generation of semi‐diurnal internal tides are the steep continental slope together with the orientation of Dixon Entrance. The prevalent baroclinic wave pattern, which is similar to the one found by Buchwald (1971), suggests that the western end of Dixon Entrance can be considered as an internal tide generation region for the open ocean. Use of the simple model allows easy identification of the generated waves. When the model is run with a non‐flat channel it reproduces features observed inside Dixon Entrance.     

Water exchange in fjords induced by tidally generated internal lee waves

Tidal processes are examined that control the water exchange between two basins of the Trondheimsfjord through a narrow channel with sills. For this purpose, a non-hydrostatic numerical model based on the laterally averaged Reynolds equations in the Boussinesq approximation was developed. The model takes into account the real vertical fluid stratification, variable bottom topography and variable cross-section of the fjord. Numerical experiments were performed to investigate tidally generated internal waves and their influence on the water exchange.The model produces both baroclinic tides and tidally generated lee waves. It was found that, for the Skarnsund strait which connects the Middle Fjord and the Beitstadfjord, the internal tides generated over the Skarnsund sills are very weak. Their amplitudes do not exceed 1 m.The intense short internal waves, which are identified as unsteady lee waves, comprise the basic input of the total internal wave field. These waves are generated by tidal currents at sill breaks, are trapped by topography in the generation area and grow by continuing feedback into large-amplitude waves. As the tidal flow slackens, they move upstream as freely propagating waves.As essentially nonlinear responses, the lee waves cause a nonlinear water transport. The detailed analysis of the residual currents produced by unsteady lee waves (which are propagating in both directions from the Scarnsund sills) has shown, in particular, that the residual currents can reach values as high as 0.27 m s⁻¹.It was also found that such currents exert a considerable effect on the water exchange through the Skarnsund strait between the adjacent basins. This mechanism can play an important role in water renewal and formation of the Beitasdfjord waters.     

海冰覆盖度变化下北冰洋海浪研究进展

北冰洋地区海浪的生成和发展会受到海冰范围变化的显著影响.本文介绍了近年来基于浮标、潜标和走航观测,以及卫星遥感和数值模拟等方法开展的不同海冰覆盖度下北冰洋海浪的研究进展,包括海冰覆盖区海浪的传播机制等.北冰洋夏季开阔海域的平均有效波高可达3 m,在风暴期间,波弗特海有效波高可达5 m.除大西洋一侧,夏季北冰洋大部分海域...     

简单的热带海气耦合波——Rossby波的相互作用

在本文中分析了当大气和海洋中未经耦合前的自由波均为Rossby模时,经相互作用后所激发出的耦合波的物理性质。结果表明,由于大气和海洋的背景状态不同,可以激发出两类不稳定耦合Rossby波。一类波要求大气的背景场是斜压的,而海洋的混合层较深,即热容量较大。这是一类弱相互作用的不稳定波。另一类要求大气的背景场趋于正压性,而海洋的混合层较浅,即热容量较小。这是一类强相互作用的不稳定波。色散关系的计算表明,这两类不稳定波产生的物理机制也不相同。文中对解不同截断模的本征值问题提出了几种数学方法,同时还进一步提出了一种使大气和海洋自由Rossby模的色散关系不受歪曲的处理方法。     

The California tsunami of 15 June 2005 along the coast of North America

Abstract

An M_w = 7.2 earthquake occurred on 15 June 2005 (utc) seaward of northern California off the west coast of North America. Based on the earthquake location and source parameters, the West Coast and Alaska Tsunami Warning Center issued a tsunami warning for the region extending from the California‐Mexico border to northern Vancouver Island, British Columbia (the first tsunami warning for this region since the 1994 M_w = 8.2 Shikotan earthquake). Six tide gauges on the west coast recorded tsunami waves from this event, with a maximum trough‐to‐crest wave height of 27.7 cm observed at Crescent City, California. Waves of 2.5 to 6.5 cm were measured at the five other sites: Port Orford (Oregon), North Spit and Arena Cove (California), and Tofino and Bamfield (British Columbia). The open‐ocean Deep‐ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART) buoys, 46404 and 46405, recorded tsunami waves of 0.5 and 1.5 cm, respectively, closely matching wave heights derived from numerical models. Incoming tsunami wave energy was mainly at periods of 10 to 40 min. The observed tsunami wave field is interpreted in terms of edge (trapped) and leaky (non‐trapped) waves and a “trapping coefficient” is introduced to estimate the relative contribution of these two wave types. Due to the high (3000 m) water depth in the source area, approximately two‐thirds of the total tsunami energy went to leaky wave modes and only one‐third to edge wave modes. The improved response to and preparedness for the 2005 California tsunami compared to the 1994 Shikotan tsunami is attributable, in part, to the operational capability provided by the open‐ocean bottom‐pressure recorder (DART) system, higher quality coastal tide gauges, and the effective use of numerical models to simulate real‐time tsunamis.     

El Nino的周期变化和空间特征——兼应用PC和CPC分析太平洋海温距平场

本文联合利用实主成分(以下简称PC)分析和复主成分(以下简称CPC)分析,探讨太平洋SST演变的时空特征.结果表明:这两种分析方法得到的第一个主成分都展示El Nino随时间周期性变化,在PC中表现为峰谷的变化,在CPC中表现为振幅和位相的变化;相应的荷载向量主要反映El Nino和La Nina事件时期空间分布特征,大振幅区域位于主要冷暖洋流活动中心.第一个复荷载向量可以认为在驻波上附加一个南北向传播的行波.第二个荷载向量为一驻波,第三个复荷载向量看上去像一个东西向传播的行波,后两个特征型各自强调不同El Nino和La Nina时期的空间特征.驻波峰、谷区域之间呈现反相关关系;这里虽然没有研究波群和群速度,但就行波而言,也初步看出能量传播的路径.与复荷载向量对应的实荷载向量仅显示驻波特征.     

On the breakdown into turbulence of propagating internal waves

The breakdown of propagating internal waves is studied using linear stability analysis and direct numerical simulations. Sinusoidal wave trains in a uniformly stratified, non-rotating environment are considered. Cases are addressed with differing wave amplitudes and directions of propagation. For large-amplitude waves it is found that the primary instabilities are both two- and three-dimensional. It is also found that there is no qualitative difference in the breakdown process for waves with amplitude slightly below or slightly above the amplitude of incipient overturning. For the parameter regimes considered, the breakdown process could not be attributed to convective or shear instability alone, but a combination of the two. Owing to the growth of instabilities, local patches of statically unstable fluid and also of intense shear form, leading ultimately to local patches of turbulence.     

On the phase propagation and relationship of interannual variability in the tropical Pacific climate system

—Upper ocean thermal data and surface marine observations are used to describe the three-dimensional, basinwide co-evolution of interannual variability in the tropical Pacific climate system. The phase propagation behavior differs greatly from atmosphere to ocean, and from equatorial to off-equatorial and from sea surface to subsurface depths in the ocean. Variations in surface zonal winds and sea surface temperatures (SSTs) exhibit a standing pattern without obvious zonal phase propagation. A nonequilibrium ocean response at subsurface depths is evident, characterized by coherent zonal and meridional propagating anomalies around the tropical North Pacific: eastward on the equator but westward off the equator. Depending on geographic location, there are clear phase relations among various anomaly fields. Surface zonal winds and SSTs in the equatorial region fluctuate approximately in-phase in time, but have phase differences in space. Along the equator, zonal mean thermocline depth (or heat content) anomalies are in nonequilibrium with the zonal wind stress forcing. Variations in SSTs are not in equilibrium either with subsurface thermocline changes in the central and western equatorial Pacific, with the former lagging the latter and displaced to the east. Due to its phase relations to SST and winds, the basinwide temperature anomaly evolution at thermocline depths on an interannual time scale may determine the slow physics of ENSO, and play a central role in initiating and terminating coupled air-sea interaction. This observed basinwide phase propagation of subsurface anomaly patterns can be understood partially as water discharge processes from the western Pacific to the east and further to high latitudes, and partially by the modified delayed oscillator physics. Received: 17 January 1997 / Accepted: 10 March 1998     

Wave-dependence of friction velocity,roughness length,and drag coefficient over coastal and open water surfaces by using three databases

The parameterization of friction velocity, roughness length, and the drag coefficient over coastal zones and open water surfaces enables us to better understand the physical processes of air-water interaction. In context of measurements from the Humidity Exchange over the Sea Main Experiment (HEXMAX), we recently proposed wave-parameter dependent approaches to sea surface friction velocity and the aerodynamic roughness by using the dimensional analysis method. To extend the application of these approaches to a range of natural surface conditions, the present study is to assess this approach by using both coastal shallow (RASEX) and open water surface measurements (Lake Ontario and Grand Banks ERS-1 SAR) where wind speeds were greater than 6.44 m s^-1. Friction velocities, the surface aerodynamic roughness, and the neutral drag coefficient estimated by these approaches under moderate wind conditions were compared with the measurements mentioned above. Results showed that the coefficients in these approaches for coastal shallow water surface differ from those for open water surfaces, and that the aerodynamic roughness length in terms of wave age or significant wave height should be treated differently for coastal shallow and open water surfaces.     

Forced fortnightly tides in shallow rivers

Abstract

The presence and the basic features of the forced fortnightly wave observed in some shallow rivers are explained through scaling arguments which show that this wave is generated by the fortnightly modulation of the frictional forces due to the variation in tidal velocities. Comparison of the results with sea‐level records from a shallow reach of the St Lawrence River shows reasonable agreement between data and theory.     

A tidal model of the northeast pacific

Abstract

The development of a tidal model for the west coast of Canada is described. The model is intermediate in resolution between coarse‐gridded global models and fine‐gridded local models; it provides a good representation of the main shelf regions and also includes a substantial area of the neighbouring ocean. The physical processes relevant to tides in both deep and shallow water are included. Calculations have been carried out for the M₂ and K₁ constituents and the model results were compared with extensive tide‐gauge observations and empirically based charts. For M₂, the agreement between model results and observations is generally excellent, but for K₁, which contains more small‐scale variability, the model results are not quite so good. The variability in K₁ is associated with tidally generated continental shelf waves. Examination of the computed currents and energy fluxes suggests that shelf‐wave components are present in the model solution but, for the Vancouver Island shelf, their propagation is not reproduced accurately. This may be due to deficiencies in the model and/or to the influences of stratification and mean currents, which are neglected here. The model predicts that shelf‐wave components should also occur in diurnal tides on the Alaskan shelf.

The significance of the tide‐generating potential and advection are also examined and further work proposed.     

全球扰动的结构、演变及其球面Rossby波包表示

利用按谱函数展开的方法,计算和分析了正压球面Rossby波的连续谱和离散谱的波包结构、演变和传播特征,发现无论是结构、演变还是传播,连续谱波包和离散谱波包都很不相同.连续谱波包的传播速度不仅大小而且方向都随纬度变化;离散谱波包的传播速度只有大小随纬度变化,其方向在任何纬度上都是向西的.连续谱的波包和离散谱的波包在初始时刻虽然都表现为子午圈上不规则的波动,但随着时间的增加,二者的变化规律不同,连续谱的波包具有局部特征,主要表现在两个半球的中高纬地区,且随时间振幅迅速衰减;而离散谱的波包具有全球性质.将二者与整个扰动波包进行比较,发现:在中高纬度地区,连续谱波包的结构与扰动波包的结构相似,而在赤道地区,离散谱的波包与扰动波包相似.     

Ultra-wideband radar studies of steep crested waves with scanning laser measurements of wave slope profiles

We report results of ultra wide-band radar sea spike experiments using steep and weakly breaking non-linear water surface features in a wave tank. To generate these features we used a 1 s paddle wave and wind waves for a sequence of wind speeds. A scanning laser was used to measure synchronously the surface slope profile across 12 cm along the wave propagation direction once per radar pulse. A time domain reflectometer (TDR) radar transmitted short horizontally polarized pulses at X-band, several hundred picoseconds long, to give a range resolution of 10 cm. A radar range of 36 cm was digitally sampled so that surface feature echoes could be tracked through the area continuously with 5 ms temporal resolution with each instrument. We report results considering the wave slope component in the propagation direction and the corresponding curvature component. For the conditions studied, two types of features which produce sea spike radar echoes were generated–a non-linear feature near the crest front of the wind wave, caused by extreme steepening as a result of the passage of the paddle wave, and a steepened blocked wind wave in the trough of the paddle wave, caused by the local orbital current of the 1 s wave being nearly equal to and opposite the phase velocity of the wind wave.     

On the analysis of wind wave-induced disturbances in the atmospheric turbulent surface layer

Simultaneous measurements of wind velocity, air humidity and sea surface wave-elevation fluctuations obtained on a platform in the open Caspian Sea are analyzed.It is shown that wave noises exist in the spectra and cospectra of the lower part of the atmospheric boundary layer, not only for the frequency of the main energy transporting component of the sea waves, but also in other parts of the spectra, at both lower and higher frequencies. The high frequencies are noncoherent with the sea waves and could be considered as measurement errors due to the existence of the waves. A method of elimination of the coherent wave noises from the spectra and cospectra is suggested and the effectiveness of its application is demonstrated.The essential difference between cases of developing and decaying wind waves is demonstrated.     

Decadal and long-term sea level variability in the tropical Indo-Pacific Ocean

In this study, we analysed decadal and long-term steric sea level variations over 1966–2007 period in the Indo-Pacific sector, using an ocean general circulation model forced by reanalysis winds. The simulated steric sea level compares favourably with sea level from satellite altimetry and tide gauges at interannual and decadal timescales. The amplitude of decadal sea level variability (up to ~5 cm standard deviation) is typically nearly half of the interannual variations (up to ~10 cm) and two to three times larger than long-term sea level variations (up to 2 cm). Zonal wind stress varies at decadal timescales in the western Pacific and in the southern Indian Ocean, with coherent signals in ERA-40 (from which the model forcing is derived), NCEP, twentieth century and WASWind products. Contrary to the variability at interannual timescale, for which there is a tendency of El Niño and Indian Ocean Dipole events to co-occur, decadal wind stress variations are relatively independent in the two basins. In the Pacific, those wind stress variations drive Ekman pumping on either side of the equator, and induce low frequency sea level variations in the western Pacific through planetary wave propagation. The equatorial signal from the western Pacific travels southward to the west Australian coast through equatorial and coastal wave guides. In the Indian Ocean, decadal zonal wind stress variations induce sea level fluctuations in the eastern equatorial Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal, through equatorial and coastal wave-guides. Wind stress curl in the southern Indian Ocean drives decadal variability in the south-western Indian Ocean through planetary waves. Decadal sea level variations in the south–western Indian Ocean, in the eastern equatorial Indian Ocean and in the Bay of Bengal are weakly correlated to variability in the Pacific Ocean. Even though the wind variability is coherent among various wind products at decadal timescales, they show a large contrast in long-term wind stress changes, suggesting that long-term sea level changes from forced ocean models need to be interpreted with caution.     

Redistribution of sea level rise associated with enhanced greenhouse warming: a simple model study

Future sea level rise from thermal expansion of the World Ocean due to global warming has been explored in several recent studies using coupled ocean-atmosphere models. These coupled models show that the heat input by the model atmosphere to the ocean in such an event could be quite non-uniform in different areas of the ocean. One of the most significant effects predicted by some of the models is a weakening of the thermohaline circulation, which normally transports heat poleward. Since the greatest heat input from enhanced greenhouse warming is in the higher latitudes, a weakening of the poleward heat transport effectively redistributes the heat anomaly and the associated sea level rise to lower latitudes. In this study, the mechanism of ocean circulation spindown and heat redistribution was studied in the context of a much simpler, linearized shallow water model. Although the model is much simpler than the three-dimensional ocean circulation models used in the coupled model experiments, and neglects several important physical effects, it has a nearly 10-fold increase in horizontal resolution and clearer dynamical interpretations. The results indicated that advanced signals of sea level rise propagated rapidly through the action of Kelvin and Rossby waves, but the full adjustment toward a more uniform sea level rise took place much more slowly. Long time scales were required to redistribute mass through narrow currents trapped along coasts and the equatorial wave guide. For realistic greenhouse warming, the model showed why the sea level rise due to ocean heating could be far from uniform over the globe and hence difficult to estimate from coastal tide gauge stations.     

Secular Trends in Tidal Parameters along the Coast of Japan

The secular trends for local tidal datums, tide ranges, and tidal harmonic constituents at 13 tidal gauge stations located along the coast of Japan were analyzed in this study. The general trends for mean higher high water (MHHW), mean high water (MHW), diurnal tide range (DTR), mean tide range (MTR), and relative mean sea level (RMSL) were positive, and for mean lower low water (MLLW) and mean low water (MLW) the trends were negative. The variation patterns were largest at Kushiro and Ofunato stations, both located in the open waters of the North Pacific Ocean. The tidal datums and tide ranges remained fairly stable at the Hakodate station, and an opposite trend was observed at the Maisaka station. The analysis of tidal harmonic constituents revealed a less pronounced pattern. The most distinct trend was observed for the M₂ amplitude, which appears to be negative at a majority of the stations. The largest decrease in the M₂ amplitude was observed at Kushimoto and Mera stations, also located in the open waters of the North Pacific Ocean. The negative trend is attributed to decreasing water depths at these stations, owing to small-scale local processes.