非线性波-波相互作用的特征

在海浪研究中,非线性能量传输Snl的概念虽早在60年代提出,但其重要性直至JONSWAP研究成果发表以后才得到证实.某些特征谱的非线性能量传输的数值计算结果,定性地描述了非线性能量传输Snl的主要特征:(1)由给定谱可得到非线性能量传输Snl的理论值.(2)非线性能量传输Snl有三个耳,两侧为正耳,中间为负耳;对充分成长的PM谱,低频正耳位于峰频率,对成长的JONSWAP谱,低频正耳位于峰频率左侧.(3)高频正耳较其它二个耳有较宽的方向分布.(4)低频正耳集中在窄的频带内,有比较窄的方向分布.     

海浪波面极大值分布的非线性影响

依非线性海浪模型,在二阶近似下,利用特征函数展开技术和直接求矩的方法,导出了定点波面位移及其对时间的一阶和二阶导数的联合分布。由此联合分布,导出了二阶非线性近似下的波面极大值分布。它由线性意义下的海浪频谱及所考虑的二阶级。波相互作用所确定。当忽略非线性影响时,文中给出的波面极大值分布退化为Cartwright和Longuet-Higgins所导出的分布。     

上海沿岸天文潮与风暴潮非线性相互作用的数值研究

运用二维非线性风暴潮，天文潮和联合水位模型８次不同路径的热带气旋引起的上海地区天文潮与风暴潮的非线性相互作用进行了数值研究，讨论了天文潮气与风暴潮非线性相互作用引起的增水特征，分析了控制方程中各非线性项对天文潮与风暴晨线性相互作用引起水位变化的贡献，研究表明，考虑天文潮与风暴的非线性相互作用后，使风暴潮和水位的数值模拟结果得到了改善，非线性底摩擦在控制天文潮和风暴潮非线性相互作用中起重要的作用。而     

波-流相互作用源函数及其对海浪模拟的影响

当前,基于第三代海浪模式的波-流相互作用研究,通常仅考虑背景流场对海浪群速度大小、方向的改变及其所引起的波浪折射效应,忽略了流场对波浪能谱的影响。本文以波-流相互作用源函数为切入点,利用MASNUM海浪模式进行理想实验,阐释了水平方向上的波-流相互作用对海浪能谱的改变以及对海浪模拟可能造成的影响。结果表明：水平流速梯度量级、水深、波浪成长状态以及流速梯度方向均可以影响波-流相互作用源函数的作用效果,使得有效波高、谱峰波向的模拟结果发生变化。在更符合实际的水平流速梯度量级下,波-流相互作用源函数对有效波高和谱峰波向模拟值的影响非常小;但考虑到涌浪的长距离传播,其对谱峰波向的影响仍可能明显改变涌浪的传播形态。     

旋转流体中的非线性惯性波

本文从旋转流体中非线性惯性波的基本方程出发,通过微分几何理论论证了非线性惯性波在传播方向上的周期性及不存在孤波解。采用Hamilton函数及其作用──角度变量给出非线性惯性波的解析解。并以简洁形式提出了一种有限振幅的非线性惯性波和用罗斯贝数作为控制参量的非线性频散关系和波速公式。     

基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)

简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。     

海冰对海浪影响研究综述

受全球气候变化的影响,极区海浪尤其是北极海浪在过去几十年发生了显著的变化,使得海冰边缘区海冰与海浪的相互作用愈发显著。本文从物理海洋学的角度出发,较系统地总结了海冰对海浪作用研究的国内外现状,从理论和实测的角度分别探讨了海冰对海浪能量的耗散及其引起的波动频散关系的变化,同时分析了当前海冰覆盖海域海浪的数值模拟与现场观测研究,指出了未来开展有冰海域海浪数值模拟与预报所面临的主要问题,并对该方向今后的研究做出展望。总体来看,尽管海冰对海浪作用的机理复杂且与海冰类型高度相关,但是海冰对海浪能量的衰减与传播距离基本呈指数关系,并且海冰会一定程度上影响海浪的传播速度。未来依然需要更多不同海冰类型下海浪的观测数据以开展进一步的机理分析、模型检验和参数校准,进而实现高精度的业务化预报。     

长江口以外海域风暴潮与天文潮的非线性相互作用

一个二维数值模式被用于研究长江口以外海域的风暴潮与天文潮的非线性相互作用。用这个模式模拟了 1981年 8114号台风与天文潮共同作用下所引起的风暴潮增水。 8114号台风是近 2 0年中最重要的台风之一。该台风登陆点附近有吴淞验潮站 ,这里有完整的风暴潮水位记录。计算结果与该站实测值符合较好 ,说明模拟是成功的。此外 ,从模拟结果中还可得出一些有益的结论     

非线性波波相互作用共轭源函数守恒量的分析

海浪组成波中的四波共振时满足谱作用量、谱能量及动量守恒，在变分同化所建立的波谱共轭方程中，对应于非线性波波相互作用源函数Boltzman积分形式，本文建立了其共轭源函数满足的守恒关系；实际海浪计算时广泛采用Hasselmann et al．(1985)的参数化方法，本文给出其综合作用表示式，证明也满足谱作用量、谱能量及动量守恒，并进一步导出了其共轭源函数中存在的守恒量。所有的共轭源函数守恒量只是对共轭算子而言的，对于共轭波谱则不存在相应的守恒关系。     

Influence of Energy Directional Spread on Wave Spectral Refraction

Pierson- Moskowitz Spectrum, JONSWAP Spectrum as well as Bretschneider- Mitsuyasu Spectrum are used in this paper for analyzing the influence of wave energy directional spread on refraction of wave spectrum due to both current and topography of sea bed. The author's calculation indicates that such kind influence on the characteristic value of wave height as well as the average direction of wave energy propagation can not be ignored.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

Physical Investigation of Directional Wave Focusing and Breaking Waves in Wave Basin

An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distrihution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced hy wave directionality and that that breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.     

Estimating Directional Distribution for Co-Existent Field of Incident and Reflected Waves

In the nearshore,the wave field contains reflected and incident waves in which there iscorrelation between their phases due to the effect of reflection by some obstacles.Based on the extendedeigenvector method(EEV)derived by Guan et al.,a modified method(MEEV)is proposed as a generaland practical approach to estimating directional spectra for the co-existent field of incident and reflectedwaves and a formula is given for direct calculation of the reflection coefficient.The results of numericalsimulations show that MEEV is superior to EEV in resolution power,and the computed reflectioncoefficient agrees well with the real value within a certain range of incident angle.     

Second-Order Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

Second-Oorder Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a constant plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special case of slope angle b=p/2, this solution can be reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves were also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves were also discussed. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determining determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

风浪槽内风浪外频谱谱形的一些特征

利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。     

A Model for Nonlinear Irregular Waves in Coastal Area

Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results.     

Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore zone

The directionality of waves inside a groin field near the German coastal zone of the island of Norderney is studied in the frequency domain. The maximum entropy method is adopted to estimate the directional spreading function. The various characteristics of the directional distribution of waves have been presented for the locations both inside and outside the groin field. The variation of directional spreading with depth and the importance of study of directional waves in coastal regions are discussed.