Hilbert transform and its application to modulation of capillary gravity waves

INTRODUCFIONlt is well known that the stability and interaction of nonlinear waves lead to modulations ofwavenumber and frequency, as well as arnplitude, with the frequency dePendent on bothwavenumber and arnplitude (Witham, l974; Philips, l98l ). These medulations are not justtheoretical curiossities but have important conSequences in oceanography and meteorology, aswell as naval architecture and ocean engineering (honguer-Higgins, l980).By means of Hilbert transfOrm technique, Melvill…     

江苏外海深水波要素推算

运用第三代海浪模式WAMC4在西北太平洋海域建立了深水波浪数学模型,利用美国国家环境预报中心(NCEP)再分析气象资料作为风场条件,对该海域波浪进行了长时间序列(1950～2009年)的数值模拟。在模型验证的基础上,采用P-III曲线对数值模拟结果进行了分方向重现期计算,得到了江苏外海13个站点一百年一遇和五十年一遇的重现期有效波高,发现江苏外海深水重现期波浪从南向北呈现递减趋势,强浪向由NE向逐渐向NNE向偏转。     

Interaction of current and flexural gravity waves

The interaction between current and flexural gravity waves generated due to a floating elastic plate is analyzed in two dimensions under the assumptions of linearized theory. For plane flexural gravity waves, explicit expressions for the water particle dynamics and trajectory are derived. The effect of current on the wavelength, phase velocity and group velocity of the flexural gravity waves is analyzed. Variations in wavelength and wave height due to the changes in current speed and direction are analyzed. Effects of structural rigidity and water depth on wavelength are discussed in brief. Simple numerical computations are performed and presented graphically to explain most of the theoretical findings in a lucid manner.     

Bifurcation current along the southwest coast of the Kii Peninsula

Along the southwest coast of the Kii Peninsula, a bifurcation current is regularly observed. By using ADCP data taken on board the R/V Wakayama of the Wakayama Prefectural Fisheries Experimental Station, characteristics of this bifurcation current are analyzed. The occurrence frequency of the bifurcation current reaches about 70% in the period from 1988 to 1996. The bifurcation point appears to be changeable and occurs almost evenly between Cape Ichie and Cape Shionomisaki. The current divergence in the alongshore direction was also investigated. Positive divergence values dominated in the whole analyzed area, and an onshore current appears to be dominant along the southwest coast of the Kii Peninsula, except in 1990 when the Kuroshio flowed in a large meandering path.     

江苏沿海波浪多重嵌套模拟研究

根据24年CCMP风场资料和江苏沿海4个方向(N、NE、E和SE)百年一遇风速,构建西北太平洋、东中国海和江苏沿海上述4个方向的百年一遇风场。首次建立一个基于第三代海浪模型SWAN的自西北太平洋、东中国海至江苏沿海的三重嵌套数值模型,以AVISO卫星观测数据和江苏沿海定点实测数据进行验证。以三个计算域4个方向百年一遇风场为驱动风场,驱动该多重嵌套模型,高精度数值模拟江苏沿海4个方向百年一遇有效波高分布并进行分析。结果表明,江苏沿海辐射沙洲地形对有效波高分布影响显著;E向百年一遇风场作用下海域有效波高最大,NE向次之,N向和SE较小。     

Reseach on three-dimensional tide current mathematical model of coast and its application

Ｒｅｓｅａｃｈ　ｏｎ　ｔｈｒｅｅ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌ　ｔｉｄｅ　ｃｕｒｒｅｎｔ　ｍａｔｈｅｍｔｉｃａｌ　ｍｏｄｅｌ　ｏｆ　ｃｏａｓｔ　ａｎｄ　ｉｔｓ　ａｐｐｌｉｃａｔｉｏｎTXＲｅｓｅａｃｈｏｎｔｈｒｅｅ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌｔｉｄｅｃｕｒｒｅｎ...     

海岸三维潮流数学模型的研究及应用

本模型以三维Navier－Stokes方程为基础,经σ-坐标变换得模式方程,然后选用特殊的插值函数,利用有限元和差分相结合的方法求解.所建模型可适应具有较为复杂岸线和海工建筑的海域潮流计算,可进行局部加密,同时能以较高分辨率揭示三维潮流的空间结构特征.本潮流模型具有省时、简便的特点.     

Interactions of nonlinear gravity waves and uniform current in Lagrangian system

The particle trajectory on a weakly nonlinear progressive surface wave obliquely interacting with a uniform current is studied by using an EulerLagrange transformation. The thirdorder asymptotic solution is a periodic bounded function of Lagrangian labels and time, which imply that the entire solution is uniformlyvalid. The explicit parametric solution highlights the trajectory of a water particle and mass transport associated with a particle displacement can now be obtained directly in Lagrangian form. The angular frequency and Lagrangian mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian. The variations in the water particle orbits resulting from the oblique interaction with a steady uniform current of different magnitudes are also investigated.     

Water-temperature effect on the spectral density of wind gravity waves and on sea-surface roughness

The results of hourly measurements of sea roughness and hydrometeorological parameters, which were automatically taken from special buoys over a long period of time, were used. These buoys were located in the open regions of both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans in different climatic zones; the mean water-surface temperature around the buoys varies from 1–3°C to 26–28°C. In addition to measurement results, the tables contain data on the spectral density of sea roughness for a wide range of frequencies. An analysis of these data, which was made for a short-wave region of the wind-wave spectrum, for the first time revealed a noticeable watertemperature dependence of the spectral density of wind waves within the frequency range 0.30–0.40 Hz, which corresponds to wave lengths of 9-4 m. The presence of such dependence is explained by a rapid temperature change in kinematic sea-water viscosity. Earlier, we indicated the temperature dependence of only very short spectral components that relate to a centimetric wavelength range. The statistical significance of the watertemperature effect on the spectral density of waves of the indicated frequency is supported by the results of a variance analysis. Temperature variations in the parameter of sea-surface roughness, which is determined, first of all, by the energy of the spectral shortwave region, are estimated. Altimetry is the basic method which is used in remotely determining the velocity of near-water wind. This method allows one to obtain records of deviations of the sea surface from the geoid surface and to calculate (on the basis of these records) the spectral density of wave components of almost any frequency. It is known that the wave-spectrum components in the region of low frequencies are almost always affected by ripple. Consequently, the energy of these components is determined not only by wind forcing, and only the components in the range of frequencies exceeding approximately 0.3 Hz are purely windy. Therefore, using the results of sea-surface altimetry in order to determine the velocity of near-water wind, one should use the spectral densities of wave components in this frequency region. The water-temperature dependence of the spectral density of short wind waves is manifested only in a certain frequency interval, which supports this recommendation.     

浙江沿岸的贝类资源及其增养殖

综述了浙江沿岸的贝类资源和增养殖的概况 ,现已报道的贝类有 61 4种 ,其中主要经济种类有 68种 ,目前已进行生产性养殖的有 1 5种 ,主要有泥蚶、缢蛏、长牡蛎、僧帽牡蛎、贻贝、泥螺、文蛤、青蛤等。 1 997年全省海水养殖贝类产量达 35.2 5× 1 0 4 t,养殖面积为 4.38×1 0 4 km2。指出了贝类增养殖中存在的问题 ,并提出了改进的对策和措施。     

关于Boussinesq型水波方程理论和应用研究的综述

Boussinesq型方程是研究水波传播与演化问题的重要工具之一,本文就1967-2018年常用的Boussinesq型水波方程从理论推导和数值应用两个方面进行了回顾,以期推动该类方程在海岸(海洋)工程波浪水动力方向的深入研究和应用。此类方程推导主要从欧拉方程或Laplace方程出发。在一定的非线性和缓坡假设等条件下,国内外学者建立了多个Boussinesq型水波方程,并以Stokes波的相关理论为依据,考察了这些方程在相速度、群速度、线性变浅梯度、二阶非线性、三阶非线性、波幅离散、速度沿水深分布以及和(差)频等多方面性能的精度。将Boussinesq型水波方程分为水平二维和三维两大类,并对主要Boussinesq型水波方程的特性进行了评述。进而又对适合渗透地形和存在流体分层情况下的Boussinesq型水波方程进行了简述与评论。最后对这些方程的应用进行了总结与分析。     

Characteristics of coastal-trapped waves induced by typhoon along the southeast coast of Honshu,Japan

Mooring observations using ADCP, electromagnetic current meters and thermometers were performed to clarify the vertical and horizontal structure of coastal-trapped waves (CTWs) on continental shelf and slope on the eastern side of Sagami Bay, Japan, in August and September 2003. A strong inflow associated with CTW caused by Typhoon 0315 (CTW15) was observed with remarkable downwelling. The maximum current due to CTW15 was over 100 cm s⁻¹, confined to the upper layer shallower than 90 m. The CTW (CTW10) induced by Typhoon 0310, was associated with the coastal upwelling and maximum outflow was 33 cm s⁻¹; the currents were extended near the bottom at 230 m depth. Remarkable discrepancies were found between the current structures of CTWs. CTW15 was explained by superposing the second CTW mode on the first CTW mode, whereas CTW10 was explained by the first CTW mode. The generation and propagation processes of both CTWs were reproduced by numerical experiments using a three-dimensional level model. The model results indicated that the difference of modal characteristics between CTW15 and CTW10 already exists in the CTW generation region and are due to difference of the wind direction, i.e., the typhoon’s path.     

A second approximation to the time-mean lagrangian drift beneath a series of progressive gravity waves

A fourth-order solution is derived for the mean drift induced by a steady train of waves in water of constant depth. New measurements are carried out of the drift in the body of the fluid and the drift velocity gradient at the free surface. Comparison of theory and experiment shows significantly better agreement with the present fourth-order solution than with the previous second-order solution of Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1953 [Phil. Trans. R. Soc.245, 535–581]. In particular, the present solution reproduces the observed tendency of the surface drift velocity to rise in shallow water and to level-off in very deep water.     

A grey model with periodic term for sea-level analysis and its application to the Guangxi coast

A~as~Sof~~LIngeneral,sealevelisresolvedintOatrendtermplusaPeriedictermintheanalysisofsealevelvdriations(haetal.1996;ZuoandChen,1996;QinandLi,1997;Zhengetal.,1993;RenandZhang,1993),namely,thetimeequencesofmonthlyorannualmeansealevely(o)(t)canbeexpr~asy(o)(t)=T(o)(t) p(o)(t) X(o)(t) .(o)(t),(l)whereT(o)(t)isadefinitetrendterm;p(o)(t)isadefiniteperiedicterm;X(o)(t)isatimeseriesofrandomterm;a(o)(t)iswhitenoise.Thefunctionstructuresofthetrendtermaregenerallyunknown,whiledeterminingthetrendter…     

2008年中国沿岸冬季寒潮激发陆架波的小波分析

This study applies the wavelet analysis to the tidal gauge records, alongshore winds, atmospheric temperature and pressure along the China coast in winter 2008. The analysis results show three events of sea level oscillations(SLOs) on the shelf induced by winter storms. The first event occurred from January 9 to 21. The SLO periods were double-peaked at 1.6–5.3 and 7.0–16.0 d with the power densities of 0.04–0.05 and 0.10–0.15 m2·d, respectively.The second event occurred from February 5 to 18. The SLO period was single-peaked at 2.3–3.5 d with power density of 0.03–0.04 m2·d. The third event occurred from February 20 to March 8. The SLO periods were doublepeaked at 1.5–4.3 and 6.1–8.2 d with the power densities of 0.08–0.11 and 0.02–0.08 m2·d, respectively. The SLOs propagated along the coast from Zhejiang in north to Guangdong in south. The phase speeds ranged about 9–29m/s from Kanmen to Pingtan, 5–11 m/s from Xiamen to Huizhou and 11–22 m/s from Huizhou to Shuidong. The dispersion relation of the SLOs shows their nature of coastal-trapped wave.     

Surface gravity waves from direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations: A comparison with second-order theory

When the wave spectrum is sufficiently narrow-banded and the wave steepness is sufficiently high, the modulational instability can take place and waves can be higher than expected from second-order wave theory. In order to investigate these effects on the statistical distribution of long-crested, deep water waves, direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations have been performed. Results show that, for a typical design spectral shape, both the upper and lower tails of the probability density function for the surface elevation significantly deviate from the commonly used second-order wave theory. In this respect, the crest elevation is observed to increase up to 18% at low probability levels. It would furthermore be expected that wave troughs become shallower due to nonlinear effects. Nonetheless, the numerical simulations show that the trough depressions tend to be deeper than in second-order theory.     

带周期项的海平面变化灰色分析模型及广西海平面变化分析

提出了一种带周期项的海平面变化灰色分析模型.该模型保持了GM(1,1)模型能较好反应海平面变化趋势的优点,不仅能求出海平面变化速率,还能方便求出海平面变化的加速度,同时,该模型能较好的模拟海平面变化中的周期现象,从而克服了GM(1,1)不能预报周期性显著的月平均海面的缺点,并提高了预报精度.模型用于广西沿岸海平面变化分析,结果表明北海、涸洲、白龙尾3站的相对海平面上升速率分别为1.67、2.51、0.89mm/a;石头埠相对海平面呈下降趋势,下降速率为0.5～1.0mm/a;广西沿岸绝对海平面上升速率为2.0mm/a.和线性趋势项与周期项叠加的海平面分析模型相比,两者模拟精度相当.     

A fast convolution approach to the transformation of surface gravity waves: Linear waves in 1DH

The transformation of irrotational surface gravity waves in an inviscid fluid can be studied by time stepping the kinematic and dynamic surface boundary conditions. This requires a closure providing the normal surface particle velocity in terms of the surface velocity potential or its tangential derivative. A convolution integral giving this closure as an explicit expression is derived for linear 1D waves over a mildly sloping bottom. The model has exact linear dispersion and shoaling properties. A discrete numerical model is developed for a spatially staggered uniform grid. The model involves a spatial derivative which is discretized by an arbitrary-order finite-difference scheme. Error control is attained by solving the discrete dispersion relation a priori and model results make a perfect match to this prediction. A procedure is developed by which the computational effort is minimized for a specific physical problem while adapting the numerical parameters under the constraint of a predefined tolerance of damping and dispersion error. Two computational examples show that accurate irregular-wave transformation on the kilometre scale can be computed in seconds. Thus, the method makes up a highly efficient basis for a forthcoming extension that includes nonlinearity at arbitrary order. The relation to Boussinesq equations, mild-slope wave equations, boundary integral equations and spectral methods is briefly discussed.     

Eddies along front of warm winter current off the north coast of Spain and at Jovellanos Seamount

I~IOXSatellite infrared measurements are now accepted as an effeCtive way of mapping sea surfacetemperature (SST) distributions on global and regional scales. While regional SST maps are widely uest as background data for oceanographic experiments, they tend to be considered by oceanographers as at best qualitative tools. There is SCOPe for developing the use of satellite SST imagesac extensively for the study of mesoscale d~ical processes, as this paper seeks to demonstrate. As Part O…     

Why a corrugated coast only influences a longshore current within a wave length of the coast

An inviscid zone of influence is postulated from a physical model to occur when a steady homogeneous fluid flows by a two-dimensional corrugated wall with small slopes. The thickness of the influence zone is calculated to be a constant times the wave length of the wall. The method used involves balancing pressure differences between extreme points along the wall and between the wall and the outer edge of the influence zone but does not involve the irrotational assumption. An influence zone forms because the curvature of the boundary induces cross-stream accelerations and pressure gradients in the fluid. The result for the thickness of the influence zone agrees qualitatively with the exponential decay scale of an available potential flow solution to a similar problem, which suggests that the influence zone may occur in some rotational (as well as irrotational) flows.