9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究

利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验，并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明，WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明，风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性，但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。     

基于HY-2 卫星观测分析南海风浪关系

海面有效波高(H1/3)是表征海浪的重要参数,随着卫星遥感技术的发展,雷达高度计已成为获取海面有效波高的重要手段,但也只能对卫星星下点轨迹处进行有效观测,远无法满足大范围应用的需求.本研究结合2013年10月HY-2雷达高度计观测的海面有效波高和微波散射计观测的海面风场资料,分别对高、低风速下风浪数据进行拟合,建立了适用于0~40 m/s风速范围内的南海海域风浪关系模型,经模型比对和结果验证,结果表明,基于HY-2卫星数据分析建立的南海海域风浪关系模型是可信的,特别是低风速的风浪模型与实测数据建立的风浪模型具有很好的一致性;根据建立的风浪关系模型,从卫星散射计大面观测的海面风场出发,能推算出风浪条件下海面有效波高的大面信息,数据覆盖远高于卫星高度计的星下点观测,能为分析和预报海浪、风暴潮灾害提供大范围的海面有效波高信息.     

Wind wave characteristics based on visual Observations and satellite altimetry

Joint analysis of wind wave characteristics derived from the Voluntary Observing Ship data (VOS) and satellite altimetry is presented as the first step of the synthesis of different data sources. Global distributions of significant wave heights and periods along with wind speed are constructed using various techniques and empirical parameterizations. Good qualitative and quantitative agreement of VOS and satellite altimetry is found especially for regions with high spatio-temporal density of observations. The problems and prospects of the further development of the study are discussed in the context of global wave climatology and marine safety.     

推算波浪多年一遇波高的新方法

采用卫星遥感推算多年一遇波高的新方法，对中国近海多年一遇波高进行推算研究。运用卫星遥感散射计得到的风资料推算了整个渤海区域波浪多年一遇的波高分布。通过与有实测资料4个点推算的结果比较表明：卫星资料和实测计算的误差随着重现期的增大而减小，最大误差百年和50年一遇波高为20cm；而百年和50年一遇波高正是工程中最为关心的，说明运用卫星遥感散射计风资料推算渤海多年一遇波高可行且结果合理。本研究方法为进一步运用和完善卫星遥感资料推算中国近海多年一波高场提供了一条新途径。     

Wave model predictions in the Black Sea: Sensitivity to wind fields

This paper evaluates the impact of using different wind field products on the performance of the third generation wave model SWAN in the Black Sea and its capability for predicting both normal and extreme wave conditions during 1996. Wind data were obtained from NCEP CFSR, NASA MERRA, JRA-25, ECMWF Operational, ECMWF ERA40, and ECMWF ERA-Interim. Wave data were obtained in 1996 at three locations in the Black Sea within the NATO TU-WAVES project. The quality of wind fields was assessed by comparing them with satellite data. These wind data were used as forcing fields for the generation of wind waves. Time series of predicted significant wave height (H_mo), mean wave period (T_m02), and mean wave direction (DIR) were compared with observations at three offshore buoys in the Black Sea and its performance was quantified in terms of statistical parameters. In addition, wave model performance in terms of significant wave height was also assessed by comparing them against satellite data.The main scope of this work is the impact of the different available wind field products on the wave hindcast performance. In addition, the sensitivity of wave model forecasts due to variations in spatial and temporal resolutions of the wind field products was investigated. Finally, the impact of using various wind field products on predicting extreme wave events was analyzed by focussing on storm peaks and on an individual storm event in October 1996. The numerical results revealed that the CFSR winds are more suitable in comparison with the others for modelling both normal and extreme events in the Black Sea. The results also show that wave model output is critically sensitive to the choice of the wind field product, such that the quality of the wind fields is reflected in the quality of the wave predictions. A finer wind spatial resolution leads to an improvement of the wave model predictions, while a finer temporal resolution in the wind fields generally does not significantly improve agreement between observed and simulated wave data.     

嵊泗地区风浪分布及其时间变化分析

通过对嵊泗地区实测波浪资料的分析,探讨了嵊泗地区的风浪分布形式。并且依据1992年12月至2002年8月的TOPEX卫星高度计资料给出了本地区长期有效波高的时间变化,为该地区海洋减灾防灾和工程设计提供了科学依据。     

Analysis of the Voyager storm

We analyse the wind and wave conditions present in the Mediterranean Sea at the time and location when the cruise ship Voyager was reportedly hit by one or more big waves and suffered substantial damage. The analysis is done using wind and wave modelling supported by satellite and buoy wind and wave data. Granted the hindcast of the storm, we also analyse the local conditions for the possibility of freak waves.     

2016年苏北近海风场和波浪场多时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用高分辨率的大气和波浪数值模式,模拟了2016年苏北近海的风场和波浪场,并与卫星高度计资料、散射计风场、再分析资料以及实测浮标资料进行了比较,验证了模式的准确性。基于这套模式结果,系统地分析了江苏近海的风场和波浪场的多时间尺度变化:季节变化、日变化以及季节内变化(台风、寒潮)。分析结果表明:苏北近海海域的风速、有效波高和涌浪在冬季和秋季较大、春季和夏季较小;冬季盛行西北风,常浪向为西北向,夏季盛行东南风,常浪向为东南向。风场和波浪场还具有显著的日变化特征,且日变化存在季节变化规律,离岸越近海域日变化特征越明显。同时,江苏近海还会经历季节内尺度的强天气过程的影响,比如台风和寒潮。     

Modification of Globwave satellite altimetry database for sea wave field diagnostics

A new database of ocean wave parameters has been created based on satellite altimetry observations. The basis was data from the European Space Agency project GlobWave (www.globwave.org), which was transformed to suit upcoming requirements for global wave analysis. The new database contains additional wave characteristics (altimetry wind speed estimated using different parametric models, steepness, period, and some quality control parameters). It provides up-to-date tools for mass data preprocessing. The new database makes it possible to optimize wave field diagnostics on regional and global scales. Using the Envisat and Jason-1 satellite missions as an the example, we demonstrate the specific features of using the initial GlobalWave data set and the modified database.     

ASAR波模式数据反演参数误差与海浪条纹清晰度的相关性分析

欧洲环境卫星-高级合成孔径雷达(EnvironmentalSatellite-AdvancedSyntheticAperture Radar,Envisat-ASAR)波模式数据提供了全球风、浪要素信息,在海浪模式预报与同化方面有重要作用。该数据合成孔径雷达(SyntheticApertureRadar,SAR)图像普遍存在海浪条纹清晰度不同的现象,但是否影响数据精度尚无定论。本文通过比较2010年NODC (the National Oceanographic Date Center)浮标观测数据和波模式数据,发现经过官方修正后的海浪参数反而具有更大误差。进而通过对比不同条纹清晰度的SAR图像反演参数误差,揭示了ASAR产品海浪参数与浮标测量值之间的误差与海浪条纹清晰度的关系。结果表明:海浪条纹清晰的SAR图像的主波波长和主波周期的反演误差更小,而条纹不清晰SAR图像的有效波高和风速的反演误差更小。通过分析海浪参数对海浪条纹清晰度的敏感性,证实了有效波高和方位向截断波长对SAR图像条纹清晰度的响应最好,波陡次之,与卫星飞行方位角和入射角无关。因此,在反演和修正SAR波模式数据时,考虑图像的条纹清晰度,将会有效提高反演数据的精度。该研究可为高分三号等卫星的波模式数据波浪要素反演精度的提升提供有价值的参考。     

1988-2002年黄海和渤海风浪后报

本文对黄海和渤海风浪开展长期后报实验,时间范围覆盖1988至2002年,并分析相应的区域波候特征。首先,模式输出的月平均有效波高和卫星数据比对一致。其次,我们讨论了气候态月平均有效波高和平均波周期的时空分布特征。有效波高和平均波周期的气候态空间分布都呈现出西北-东南、或由近岸向深水区增加的趋势,这种空间的分布特征和局地的风强迫和水深密切相关。同时,海浪参数的季节变化也较显著。进一步,我们统计分析了风场和有效波高的极值,给出并揭示了黄海和渤海多年一遇有效波高的空间结构,并讨论了有效波高极值和风强迫极值之间的联系。     

Annual Variability of Sea Surface Height and Upper Layer Thickness in the Pacific Ocean

The annual variabilities of the sea surface height in the Pacific Ocean were investigated by analyzing the TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite data and by solving a reduced gravity model. We discuss how adequately the simple model can capture the variabilities of the sea surface height, and what the cause of the variabilities is. Three large amplitude peaks in the satellite data are found along the 12°N longitude line. Two elongated zones with a large amplitude are also found: one extends east-west along 6°N and the other extends northwestward from South America around 25°S. These features are adequately reproduced in the numerical simulation of the reduced gravity model. The propagation of the Rossby wave is analyzed by the use of the extended Eliassen-Palm flux to investigate the mechanism of these annual variabilities. The two east peaks around 12°N can be explained in terms of the interference between the local Ekman pumping and the free wave emitted near the western coast of North America, and the most western peak is affected by the Rossby wave formed by the local wind stress. The elongated zonal area around 6°N is mainly due to the local Ekman pumping. Another area around 25°S results from the convergence of the free Rossby wave emitted from the eastern boundary and the area with the strong wind stress curl off South America. A discrepancy between the satellite data and the model results suggests that the eastern equatorial Pacific Ocean is relatively calm in the model but not in the satellite data. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析台湾岛周边海域巨浪和大风特征

卫星高度计实现了对全球性或区域性的海洋参量的实时监测,TOPEX卫星高度计提供了迄今为止时间序列最长、数据质量最高的全球海面风速和有效波高的同步观测资料。利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料,分析了有效波高4m以上的巨浪在台湾岛周边海域的时空分布特征,结果表明台湾岛周边海域巨浪的分布具有明显的季节特征。每年平均有效波高最大值大多数出现在夏季,春季是1a中有效波高最小的季节,而秋季和冬季是巨浪出现频率最高的季节。波高大于6m的巨浪大都出现在台湾岛东部及东北部海域,在南部海域出现较少。     

Derivation of coastal wind and wave parameters from offshore measurements of TOPEX satellite using ANN

The paper discusses an artificial neural network (ANN) approach to project information on wind speed and waves collected by the TOPEX satellite at deeper locations to a specified coastal site. The observations of significant wave heights, average wave period and wind speed at a number of locations over a satellite track parallel to a coastline are used to estimate corresponding values of these three parameters at the coastal site of interest. A combined network involving an input and output of all the three parameters, viz., wave height, period and wind speed instead of separate networks for each one of these variables was found to be necessary in order to train the network with sufficient flexibility. It was also found that network training based on statistical homogeneity of data sets is essential to obtain accurate results. The problem of modeling wind speeds that are always associated with very high variations in their magnitudes was tackled in this study by imparting training in an innovated manner.     

江苏沿海波浪多重嵌套模拟研究

根据24年CCMP风场资料和江苏沿海4个方向(N、NE、E和SE)百年一遇风速,构建西北太平洋、东中国海和江苏沿海上述4个方向的百年一遇风场。首次建立一个基于第三代海浪模型SWAN的自西北太平洋、东中国海至江苏沿海的三重嵌套数值模型,以AVISO卫星观测数据和江苏沿海定点实测数据进行验证。以三个计算域4个方向百年一遇风场为驱动风场,驱动该多重嵌套模型,高精度数值模拟江苏沿海4个方向百年一遇有效波高分布并进行分析。结果表明,江苏沿海辐射沙洲地形对有效波高分布影响显著;E向百年一遇风场作用下海域有效波高最大,NE向次之,N向和SE较小。     

Artificial neural network to translate offshore satellite wave data to coastal locations

Owing to the spatial averaging involved in satellite sensing, use of observations so collected is often restricted to offshore regions. This paper discusses a technique to obtain significant wave heights at a specified coastal site from their values gathered by a satellite at deeper offshore locations. The technique is based on the approach of Artificial Neural Network (ANN) of Radial Basis Function (RBF) and Feed-forward Back-propagation (FFBP) type. The satellite-sensed data of significant wave height; average wave period and the wind speed were given as input to the network in order to obtain significant wave heights at a coastal site situated along the west coast of India. Qualitative as well as quantitative comparison of the network output with target observations showed usefulness of the selected networks in such an application vis-à-vis simpler techniques like statistical regression. The basic FFBP network predicted the higher waves more correctly although such a network was less attractive from the point of overall accuracy. Unlike satellite observations collection of buoy data is costly and hence, it is generally resorted to fewer locations and for a smaller period of time. As shown in this study the network can be trained with samples of buoy data and can be further used for routine wave forecasting at coastal locations based on more permanent flow of satellite observations.     

西北太平洋夏季海浪数值模拟研究

为了解第三代海浪模式SWAN在西北太平洋海浪模拟效果,利用2013年7月期间Jason-2卫星高度计观测资料,通过计算模拟值和观测值的绝对误差、均方根误差和进行逐日统计、分级统计、一次台风过程的统计,对FNL风场资料驱动SWAN模式的西北太平洋海浪数值模拟有效波高进行了检验。检验结果表明,模式对较小波高模拟效果较好,模拟波高与实测值误差在可接受的范围之内,可满足业务化预报的要求,但对较大波高的模拟存在一定的误差,且驱动风场的精细化水平直接影响模拟效果。     

基于SVR和LSTM算法反演散射计下有效波高研究

有效波高反演对于海洋工程及海洋环境安全具有重要意义.我国海洋二号(HY-2A)卫星载有散射计和高度计等获取海洋要素的仪器.散射计可获取海洋风场数据但无法直接获取有效波高数据,高度计可获取海洋有效波高数据但覆盖区域狭小.本文将散射计与高度计各自优势结合,利用支持向量回归(SVR)和长短期记忆(LSTM)智能算法反演散射计...     

Assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a spectral wave model using statistical interpolation

A scheme for the assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a second generation wave prediction model is developed. The scheme modifies the model wave spectrum so as to be consistent with the satellite observed values of significant wave height. This modification is achieved, however, so that the adjusted wave field is consistent with the model physics and the forcing wind field. In this manner the modifications to the wave field persist in the model, thus yielding long term improvements in model performance. In addition, a statistical interpolation scheme is used to ensure that maximum use is made of the point observations made by the satellite. In this manner, not only points directly beneath the satellite track are updated. Points adjacent to the track are also modified, the extent of this modification depending on the spatial correlation of the wave field. The scheme is applied to a computationally efficient second generation wave model. The improvement in performance is significant, demonstrating that assimilation may be a very efficient alternative to proceeding to more sophisticated and expensive third generation models. This is particularly true where the forcing wind field may be of poor quality. The results also demonstrate that with the addition of assimilation, relatively small computational grids can be utilized. Swell generated external to the grid will be included through the assimilation cycle.