Alkenone distribution in surface sediments of the southern Yellow Sea and implications for the {\text{U}}^{{{\text{K}}\prime}}_{{37}} thermometer

The \textU^\textK￠₃₇ {\text{U}}^{{{\text{K}}\prime}}_{{37}} index has been widely applied for sea surface temperature (SST) reconstruction in open ocean environments, but has inherently limited applications at smaller, regional scales including some marginal seas where both historical and reconstructed SST records are urgently needed for understanding regional climate evolution. We determined the spatial distribution of alkenone contents in surface sediments from the southern Yellow Sea to assess the regional \textU₃₇^\textK￠ {\text{U}}_{{{37}}}^{{{\text{K'}}}} —SST relationship for paleo-SST reconstructions. C_37:2 and C_37:3 alkenones were detected at all 36 sites covering most of the southern Yellow Sea. Alkenone content ranges from 17 to 1,063 ng/g, with high values (ca. 400 to 1,000 ng/g) at deep water sites and a decreasing trend shoreward. For six samples at shallower depths near the coast and further offshore, the values were too low for statistical evaluation. This spatial pattern of alkenone contents is consistent with existing knowledge on the spatial distribution and productivity of alkenone-producing coccolithophorid species in the region. There is a significant positive relationship ( \textU₃₇^\textK￠ = 0.059\textSST - 0.350 {\text{U}}_{{{37}}}^{{{\text{K'}}}} = 0.059{\text{SST}} - 0.350 , R = 0.912, n = 30) between the \textU₃₇^\textK￠ {\text{U}}_{{{37}}}^{{{\text{K'}}}} values and satellite-derived annual mean SSTs (0 m) for the last 27 years, providing support for the application of a region-specific \textU₃₇^\textK￠ {\text{U}}_{{{37}}}^{{{\text{K'}}}} index as paleothermometer in the southern Yellow Sea. However, the slope of the southern Yellow Sea calibration (0.059) is considerably larger than that of the well-known global core-top calibration (0.033). This implies that global SST trends may not adequately encompass regional SST patterns and/or that environmental factors other than temperature may gain importance in explaining coccolithophore dynamics in marginal seas.     

Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths

Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by η(x,t) = (H_o/2) cos[2πx/L_o − 2πt/T_w], where H_o is the deepwater height, L_o is the deepwater wavelength, and T_w is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth.     

Eddy viscosities and velocities in combined wave-current flows

The eddy viscosities for the steady and the periodic components of combined wave-current flows have been studied quantitatively from the presently available experimental data. It has been found that inside the boundary interaction layer [z < δ] the eddy viscosity ε_c for the steady flow is increased in the presence of waves while outside the boundary interaction layer [z >δ] it is affected little by the wave motion, and that the eddy viscosity ε_w for the wave motion in the boundary layer is independent of the current strength U^*. On the other hand, a new eddy viscosity model is presented to give a good prediction of the velocity distributions of the waves and currents in comparison with experimental data.     

A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 1: Wave-current–turbulence interaction parameters for the open ocean based on traditional parameterizations

Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift U_ss, volume Stokes transport T_S, a wave breaking height scale H_swg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φ_oc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φ_oc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of T_S is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of U_ss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, U_ss  0.013U₁₀, where U₁₀ is the wind speed at 10 m height.     

关于南海北部上层水团的分类及三维分布的研究

Using the fuzzy cluster analysis and the temperature-salinity(T-S) similarity number analysis of cruise conductivity-temperature-depth(CTD) data in the upper layer(0–300 m) of the northern South China Sea(NSCS), we classify the upper layer water of the NSCS into six water masses: diluted water(D), surface water(SS),the SCS subsurface water mass(U_S), the Pacific Ocean subsurface water mass(U_P), surface-subsurface mixed water(SU) and subsurface-intermediate mixed water(UI). A new stacked stereogram is used to illustrate the water mass distribution, and to examine the source and the distribution of U_P, combining with the sea surface height data and geostrophic current field. The results show that water mass U_P exists in all four seasons with the maximum range in spring and the minimum range in summer. In spring and winter, the U_P intrudes into the Luzon Strait and the southwest of Taiwan Island via the northern Luzon Strait in the form of nonlinear Rossby eddies, and forms a high temperature and high salinity zone east of the Dongsha Islands. In summer, the U_P is sporadically distributed in the study area. In autumn, the U_P is located in the upper 200 m layer east of Hainan Island.     

A simple model of sediment initiation under waves

A simple model is developed to study the initial motion of sediment on a horizontal bed under non-breaking waves. The model is derived to be A=C(T−T₀) based on a wide range of experimental data collected in different flow regimes, where A is the nearbed semi-excursion of wave motion, T is the wave period, and C and T₀ are the coefficients dependent on sediment properties only. For a given sediment, the onset velocity of sediment motion derived from the model is shown to initially increase sharply with wave period T and then approach a constant. The flow Reynolds number Re corresponding to an initiated sediment is also calculated from the simple model and found to be a function of sediment properties and wave period. For the completeness of this study, the initial motion of light sediment under very short waves is also investigated. The present model agrees well with the available laboratory and field data.     

A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 1: Wave-current–turbulence interaction parameters for the open ocean based on traditional parameterizations

Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift U_ss, volume Stokes transport T_S, a wave breaking height scale H_swg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φ_oc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φ_oc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of T_S is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of U_ss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, U_ss ≃ 0.013U₁₀, where U₁₀ is the wind speed at 10 m height.     

Determination of the surface temperature and the temperature drop in the skin layer from a moving vessel using IR data

In this paper methods are given of the IR radiometric determination of the temperature of the radiating oceanic layer,T _s, and the determination on its basis of the temperature drop in the skin layer,dt, from on board a ship underway, which allows for the emissivity of the sea surface and the contribution of the atmosphere to the upward radiation of the sea surface. The seawater temperatureT _w was registered by a contact sensor towed along the ship at a depth of 0.1–0.4 m. The valuedt=T _s–T _w was found to be within the limits of 0.07 to –0.85 K, being on average 0.33 K. The near-surface wind speedv (v=1–13 m s^–1) had the best relationship withdt;dt=–0.66+0.06v. The empirical values ofdt were compared with the model ones obtained by the well-known formulae for the conditions of forced and free convection of the surface layer.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

海洋白浪寿命的定义及测量结果

通过对国内外白浪研究和应用的分析,首次提出了有效白浪寿命的定义,给出了计算白浪寿命的公式及测量方法和结果,并报告了以此方法在渤海实测的结果,得到了白浪寿命ＴＬ与海面风速Ｕ１０的关系为ＴＬ＝０．２６Ｕ１０以及白浪寿命概率分布近于瑞利分布等。     

波流作用下海底边界层沉积物再悬浮与影响因素研究

海底沉积物再悬浮及其分布取决于海洋水动力、沉积物类型与床面形态之间复杂的相互作用,准确地理解和确定沉积物再悬浮过程对于沉积物输运的研究具有重要的意义。本文在祥云湾海洋牧场典型海域开展现场原位观测,获取研究区波浪、海流及悬浮沉积物浓度数据;分析了波、流作用下海底边界层悬浮沉积物垂向分布特征,并探究了海洋水动力和床面形态对悬浮沉积物垂向分布的影响。结果表明,研究区波流之间的相互作用不显著,沉积物再悬浮受控于风暴浪作用,风暴浪作用下底床切应力可以达到沉积物临界切应力的10～15倍,沉积物的再悬浮滞后于风暴浪作用2～3 h。在波浪荷载微小的情况下,悬浮沉积物垂向分布呈现"I"型,波浪荷载下,悬浮沉积物垂向分布呈现幂指函数分布,表现为"L"型;床面形态随波、流作用而演化,影响沉积物的再悬浮过程,u_(?w)/u_(?c)=1.00可作为波浪和海流起主导控制作用的床面形态的判别依据,纯波浪荷载作用下的u_(?w)/u_(?c)显著高于波浪主控作用下,但二者之间的界线随着波浪荷载的增加而升高。     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

粗糙海面L 和C 双波段的代价函数多参量遥感反演分析

利用代价函数(cost function)方法,通过分析粗糙海面L和C双波段多极化遥感亮温对海表盐度、温度、风速和有效波高等参数的敏感性以及L和C双波段多极化的代价函数收敛特性,建立了反演海表盐度、温度、风速和有效波高等多参数的L和C双波段多极化代价函数模式。双波段遥感模式分析结果表明:(1)对于双参数的联合反演,L和C双波段垂直极化代价函数联合反演海表盐度和温度可以获得较好的反演结果。(2)L波段垂直极化和C波段水平极化代价函数联合反演海表盐度和风速较好。(3)对于三参数联合反演,L波段垂直极化和C波段的双极化联合反演盐度、温度和风速的精度较高。(4)L波段亮温对有效波高的敏感性较低(C波段经验模式不含有效波高),使得有效波高反演误差较大,L和C波段经验模式不适合反演有效波高参数。另外,为了定量分析L和C双波段代价函数的多参量遥感反演结果,采用加性噪音模拟亮温方法,对上述L和C双波段多极化模式的盐度、温度和风速等多参数联合反演误差进行了分析,均得出较好的结果。结论表明L和C双波段代价函数联合反演多参量可以明显提高参量反演精度,为粗糙海表面多参量的反演提供了新的方法和途径。     

On the importance of resolving the western boundary layer in wind-driven ocean general circulation models

The western boundary layer (WBL) plays a fundamental role in basin-scale wind-driven ocean circulations. In idealized ocean models with flat bottom topography, this layer is required not only to balance the interior Sverdrup transport to close the gyre circulation, but also to dissipate the vorticity imposed by the wind-stress curl. The width of the WBL in Munk-type models is estimated to be δ_M(A_H/β)^1/3, where A_H and β are horizontal eddy viscosity and the meridional derivative of the Coriolis parameter respectively. For commonly used values of A_H, the boundary-layer width δ_M ranges from 30 to less than 200 km in the mid-latitude ocean. This scale is often poorly resolved in large-scale climate models.This paper intends to demonstrate some consequences when the western boundary layer is not adequately resolved. It is found that coarse resolution models reach equilibrium states by distorting some important dynamics in order to dissipate wind-imposed vorticity. In three-dimensional models, for instance, very strong spurious upwelling and downwelling can occur along the WBL. In models of two-dimensional flow, however, spurious recirculations may develop near the boundary. These false features can be removed when the boundary layer is better resolved. We propose a method in which a spatially varying A_H is used to broaden the WBL without affecting mixing in the interior. The method improves the model results considerably.     

The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow

A simple model is developed to study the inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow based on the available experimental data. The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow is well defined by the simple model: A/d=KA²ω/ν+B, where A is the semi-excursion of wave orbital motion near the bed, d is the grain size, ω is the angular frequency, ν is the kinematic viscosity of water, and K and B are the coefficients and dependent on sediment properties only. The inception velocity of sheet flow derived from the model is shown to be the function of grain size d, oscillatory period T and specific sediment density s. For a given sediment, the inception velocity is found to increase sharply initially with T and then approach a constant at T>6.0 s. The present model is quite simple and gives good agreement with the available experimental data.     

Seasonal variations of alkenones and U37 in the Chesapeake Bay water column

Alkenone unsaturation indices (U^K₃₇ and U^K′₃₇) have long been used as proxies for surface water temperature in the open ocean. Recent studies have suggested that in other marine environments, variables other than temperature may affect both the production of alkenones and the values of the indices. Here, we present the results of a reconnaissance field study in which alkenones were extracted from particulate matter filtered from the water column in Chesapeake Bay during 2000 and 2001. A multivariate analysis shows a strong positive correlation between U^K₃₇ (and U^K′₃₇) values and temperature, and a significant negative correlation between U^K₃₇ (and U^K′₃₇) values and nitrate concentrations. However, temperature and nitrate concentrations also co-vary significantly. The temperature vs. U^K₃₇ relationships (U^K₃₇=0.018 (T)−0.162, R²=0.84, U^K′₃₇=0.013 (T)−0.04, R²=0.80) have lower slopes than the open-ocean equations of Prahl et al. [1988. Further evaluation of long-chain alkenones as indicators of paleoceanographic conditions. Geochimica et Cosmochimica Acta 52, 2303–2310] and Müller et al. [1998. Calibration of the alkenone paleotemperature index U^K′₃₇ based on core-tops from the eastern South Atlantic and the global ocean (60°N–60°S). Geochimica et Cosmochimica Acta 62, 1757–1772], but are similar to the relationships found in controlled studies with elevated nutrient levels and higher nitrate:phosphate (N:P) ratios. This implies that high nutrient levels in Chesapeake Bay have either lowered the U^K₃₇ vs. temperature slope, or nutrient levels are the main controller of the U^K₃₇ index. In addition, particularly high abundances (>5% of total C₃₇ alkenones) of the tetra-unsaturated ketone, C_37:4, were found when water temperatures reached 25 °C or higher, thus posing further questions about the controls on alkenone production as well as the biochemical roles of alkenones.     

海湾扇贝控温育苗采卵时间的预报方法

于１９８８年３月－１９９３年５月，在威海崮山渔业公司和文登市海水养殖一场，采集海湾扇贝，运用二点法、最小二乘法和电动计数式积温仪测积温３种方法，进行海湾扇贝生物临界温度和控温育苗采卵时间预报方法的研究。结果表明：在升温促熟中，用３种方法求出的海湾扇贝的生物学临界温度分别为Ｔ０１＝９．００℃，Ｔ０２＝６．５４℃，Ｔ０３℃＝７．１１℃；这些结果是实验条件精度差异的反映，Ｔ０３精度较高。亲贝入池温度与促     

Wave interaction with ‘’-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, and coefficient of reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. K_t values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.     

Mixed layer depth front and subduction of low potential vorticity water in an idealized ocean GCM

It is known that there is a front-like structure at the mixed layer depth (MLD) distribution in the subtropical gyre, which is called the MLD front, and is associated with the formation region of mode water. In the present article, the generation mechanism of the MLD front is studied using an idealized ocean general circulation model with no seasonal forcing. First, it is shown that the MLD front occurs along a curve where u _g ·∇T _s = 0 is satisfied (u _g is the upper ocean geostrophic velocity vector, T _s is the sea surface temperature and ∇ is the horizontal gradient operator). In other words, the front is the boundary between the subduction region (u _g ·∇T _s > 0) and the region where subduction does not occur (u _g ·∇T _s < 0). Second, we have investigated subduction of low potential vorticity water at the MLD front, which has been pointed out by past studies. Since u _g ·∇T _s = 0 at the MLD front, the water particles do not cross the outcrop at the MLD front. The water that is subducted at the MLD front has come from the deep mixed layer region where the sea surface temperature is higher than that at the MLD front. The temperature of the water in the deep mixed layer region decreases as it is advected eastward, attains its minimum at the MLD front where u _g ·∇T _s = 0, and then subducts under the warmer surface layer. Since the deep mixed layer water subducts beneath a thin stratified surface layer, maintaining its thickness, the mixed layer depth changes abruptly at the subduction location.     

红树林植株形态及种植密度对消波能力影响的数值模拟研究

本研究利用非结构网格有限体积海洋模型FVCOM(Finite-Volume Coastal Ocean Model)、MDO(Mellor-Donelan-Oey)波浪模型以及可分层的植被波耗散参数化方案,通过对比有无红树林工况评估红树林的波浪衰减能力,研究了不同形态的红树林在高水位与低水位情况下的消波能力,分析了植株密度对红树林消波能力的影响。结果表明,红树林的消波系数与林带宽度呈非线性正相关,与水深的关系则与红树结构有关。以白骨壤(Avicennia marina)为代表的A型植株形态在低水位下的消波系数极大值为67.9%,高水位下则能够达到94.4%;以红海榄(Rhizophora stylosa)为代表的B型植株形态的消波系数在低水位和高水位的极大值分别为90.6%、89.4%;以角果木(Ceriops tagal)为代表的C型植株形态的消波能力在高低水位区别不大。植株密度的增加能提高红树林消波系数上限,还能使得红树林消波系数对林带宽度的变化更为敏感,减小达到消波系数极大值所需要的林带宽度。在保护现有的红树林生态系统或建立新的红树林综合减灾防护系统时,应注意不同植株结构红树林的...     

Geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters

The experimental results have so far shown that when a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face at the instant of impact that is called perfect breaking or perfect impact, the greatest impact forces are produced on the wall. Therefore, the configuration of breaking waves is important in the design considerations of coastal structures. The present study is concerned with determining the geometrical properties of oscillatory waves that break perfectly on the vertical wall of composite-type breakwaters. The laboratory tests for perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters are conducted with base slopes of 1/2, 1/4 and 1/6, and with berm widths of 0.00, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30 and 0.40 m. The shape and the dimensions of waves at the instant of perfect breaking on the wall are determined using a video camera. The experimental results for the geometrical properties of the breakers are presented non-dimensionally. Within the range of present experimental conditions, it is found that the dimensionless breaker crest height, h_b/d_w, and dimensionless breaker height, H_b/d_w, decrease; and, dimensionless breaker depth, d_w/H₀, increases with increasing relative berm width, B/D. The breaker height index, H_b/H₀, is almost unaffected by B/D. The deep-water wave steepness and the base slope of the breakwater do not seem to influence the geometrical properties of the breakers at wall systematically.