Tidal effects on groundwater dynamics in unconfined aquifers

The variation of seawater level resulting from tidal fluctuations is usually neglected in regional groundwater flow studies. Although the tidal oscillation is damped near the shoreline, there is a quasi‐steady‐state rise in the mean water‐table position, which may have an influence on regional groundwater flow. In this paper the effects of tidal fluctuations on groundwater hydraulics are investigated using a variably saturated numerical model that includes the effects of a realistic mild beach slope, seepage face and the unsaturated zone. In particular the impact of these factors on the velocity field in the aquifer is assessed. Simulations show that the tidal fluctuation has substantial consequences for the local velocity field in the vicinity of the exit face, which affects the nearshore migration of contaminant in coastal aquifers. An overheight in the water table as a result of the tidal fluctuation is observed and this has a significant effect on groundwater discharge to the sea when the landward boundary condition is a constant water level. The effect of beach slope is very significant and simplifying the problem by considering a vertical beach face causes serious errors in predicting the water‐table position and the groundwater flux. For media with a high effective capillary fringe, the moisture retained above the water table is important in determining the effects of the tidal fluctuations. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Tidal boundary conditions in SEAWAT

SEAWAT, a U.S. Geological Survey groundwater flow and transport code, is increasingly used to model the effects of tidal motion on coastal aquifers. Different options are available to simulate tidal boundaries but no guidelines exist nor have comparisons been made to identify the most effective approach. We test seven methods to simulate a sloping beach and a tidal flat. The ocean is represented in one of the three ways: directly using a high hydraulic conductivity (high-K) zone and indirect simulation via specified head boundaries using either the General Head Boundary (GHB) or the new Periodic Boundary Condition (PBC) package. All beach models simulate similar water fluxes across the upland boundary and across the sediment-water interface although the ratio of intertidal to subtidal flow is different at low tide. Simulating a seepage face results in larger intertidal fluxes and influences near-shore heads and salinity. Major differences in flow occur in the tidal flat simulations. Because SEAWAT does not simulate unsaturated flow the water table only rises via flow through the saturated zone. This results in delayed propagation of the rising tidal signal inland. Inundation of the tidal flat is delayed as is flow into the aquifer across the flat. This is severe in the high-K and PBC models but mild in the GHB models. Results indicate that any of the tidal boundary options are fine if the ocean-aquifer interface is steep. However, as the slope of that interface decreases, the high-K and PBC approaches perform poorly and the GHB boundary is preferable.     

Groundwater,salt and contaminant transport in a coastal aquifer system with a low-permeability layer in the intertidal zone

Low-permeability layer (LPL), formed by natural deposit or artificial reclamation and commonly found below the intertidal zone of coastal groundwater system, can retard the ingress of seawater and contaminants, and shorten the travel time of the land-sourced contaminant to the marine environment compared with a homogenous sandy coastal aquifer. However, there is limited understanding on how an intertidal LPL, a condition occurred in a coastal aquifer at Moreton Bay, Australia, influences the groundwater and contaminant transport across the shallow beach aquifer system. We characterized the aquifer hydrological parameters, monitored the in situ groundwater heads, and constructed a 2-D numerical model to analyses the cross-shore hydrological processes in this stratified system. The calibrated model suggests that in the lower aquifer, the inland-source fresh groundwater flowed horizontally towards the sea, upwelled along the freshwater–saltwater interface, and exited the aquifer at the shore below the LPL. Whereas in the upper aquifer, the tidally driven seawater circulation formed a barrier that prevented fresh groundwater from horizontal transport and discharge to the beach above the LPL, thereby directing its leakage to the lower aquifer. A contaminant represented by a conservative tracer was ‘released’ the upper aquifer in the model and results showed that the spreading extent of the contaminant plume, the maximum rate of contaminant discharge to the ocean, and its plume length decreased compared with a simulation case in a homogenous sandy aquifer. Sensitivity analysis was also conducted to investigate the characteristics of the LPL, including its continuity and hydraulic conductivity, which were found to vary along the beach at Moreton Bay. The result shows that with a lower hydraulic conductivity and continuous layer of LPL reduced the groundwater exchange and contaminant transport between upper and lower aquifer. The findings from the combined field and modelling investigations on the impact of an intertidal LPL on coastal aquifer systems highlight its significant implications to alter the groundwater and mass transport across the land–ocean interface.     

Measurements and modelling of beach groundwater flow in the swash-zone: a review

This paper reviews research on beach groundwater dynamics and identifies research questions which will need to be answered before swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution can be successfully modelled. Beach groundwater hydrodynamics are a result of combined forcing from the tide and waves at a range of frequencies, and a large number of observations exist which describe the shape and elevation of the beach watertable in response to tidal forcing at diurnal, semi-diurnal and spring-neap tidal frequencies. Models of beach watertable response to tidal forcing have been successfully validated; however, models of watertable response to wave forcing are less well developed and require verification. Improved predictions of swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution cannot be achieved unless the complex fluid and sediment interactions between the surface flow and the beach groundwater are better understood, particularly the sensitivity of sediment transport processes to flow perpendicular to the permeable bed.The presence of a capillary fringe, particularly when it lies just below the sand surface, has influences on beach groundwater dynamics. The presence of a capillary fringe can have a significant effect on the exchange of water between the ocean and the coastal aquifer, particularly in terms of the storage capacity of the aquifer. Field and laboratory observations have also shown that natural groundwater waves usually propagate faster and decay more slowly in aquifers with a capillary fringe, and observations which suggest that horizontal flows may also occur in the capillary zone have been reported. The effects of infiltration and exfiltration are generally invoked to explain why beaches with a low watertable tend to accrete and beaches with a high watertable tend to erode. However, the relative importance of processes such as infiltration losses in the swash, changes in the effective weight of the sediment, and modified shear stress due to boundary layer thinning, are not yet clear. Experimental work on the influence of seepage flows within sediment beds provides conflicting results concerning the effect on bed stability. Both modelling and experimental work indicates that the hydraulic conductivity of the beach is a critical parameter. However, hydraulic conductivity varies both spatially and temporally on beaches, particularly on gravel and mixed sand and gravel beaches. Another important, but poorly understood, consideration in beach groundwater studies is the role of air encapsulation during the wetting of beach sand.     

Tidal influence on BTEX biodegradation in sandy coastal aquifers

A numerical study was conducted to investigate the influence of tides on the fate of terrestrially derived BTEX discharging through an unconfined aquifer to coastal waters. Previous studies have revealed that tide-induced seawater circulations create an active salt–freshwater mixing zone in the near-shore aquifer and alter the specific subsurface pathway for contaminants discharging to the coastal environment. Here the coupled density-dependent flow and multi-species reactive transport code PHWAT was used to examine the impact of these tidal effects on the aerobic biodegradation of BTEX released in a coastal aquifer and its subsequent loading to coastal waters. Simulations indicated that tides significantly enhance BTEX attenuation in the near-shore aquifer. They also reduce the rate of chemical transfer from the aquifer to the ocean and exit concentrations at the beach face. For the base case consisting of toluene transport and biodegradation, 79% of toluene initially released in the aquifer was attenuated prior to discharge with tides present, compared to only 1.8% for the non-tidal case. The magnitude of tidal forcing relative to the fresh groundwater flow rate was shown to influence significantly the extent of biodegradation as it controls the intensity of salt–freshwater mixing, period of exposure of the contaminant to the mixing zone and rate of oxygen delivery to the aquifer. The oxygen available for biodegradation also depends on the rate at which oxygen is consumed by natural processes such as organic matter decomposition. While simulations conducted with heterogeneous conductivity fields highlighted the uncertainties associated with predicting contaminant loadings, the study revealed overall that BTEX may undergo significant attenuation in tidally influenced aquifers prior to discharge.     

Investigation of submarine groundwater discharge to tidal rivers: Evidence for regional and local scale seepage

Fluxes of submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) were investigated into two tidal rivers on the north and south shore of Long Island, NY, during July 2015. Ground‐based handheld thermal infrared (TIR) imagery, combined with direct push‐point piezometer sampling, documented spatially heterogeneous small‐scale intertidal seepage zones. Pore waters were relatively fresh and enriched in nitrogen (N) within these small‐scale seeps. Pore waters sampled just 20 cm away, outside the boundary of the ground‐based TIR‐located seepage zone, were more saline and lower in N. These ground‐based TIR‐identified seeps geochemically represented the terrestrial fresh groundwater endmember, whereas N in pore waters sampled outside of the TIR‐identified seeps was derived from the remineralization of organic matter introduced into the sediment by tidal seawater infiltration. A ²²²Rn (radon‐222) time‐series was used to quantify fresh SGD‐associated N fluxes using the N endmembers sampled from the ground‐based TIR pore water profiles. N fluxes were up‐scaled to groundwater seepage zones identified from high‐resolution airborne TIR imagery using the two‐dimensional size of the airborne TIR surface water anomalies, relative to the N flux from the time‐series sampling location. Results suggest that the N load from the north‐shore tidal river to Long Island Sound is underrepresented by at least 1.6–3.6%, whereas the N load from SGD to a south‐shore tidal river may be up to 9% higher than previous estimates. These results demonstrate the importance of SGD in supplying nutrients to the lower reaches of tidal rivers and suggest that N loads in other tidal river environments may be underestimated if SGD is not accounted for.     

Beach erosion and recovery during consecutive storms at a steep‐sloping,meso‐tidal beach

This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m³/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m³/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modelling the time-varying extent of groundwater seepage on tidal beaches

The outcrop of groundwater on tidal beaches distinguishes an upper unsaturated region from a lower saturated region of the intertidal profile. Since the 1940s, it has been recognized that the extent of groundwater seepage at the beach face is one factor determining the tendency for erosive or accretionary conditions to prevail. As a primary step towards incorporating bed saturation characteristics within cross-shore sediment transport models, this paper (and accompanying program disk) details a simple model to simulate the time-varying extent of seepage face development across tidal beaches. From a comparison with field results obtained on the macrotidal Central Queensland (Australia) coast, the model appears to provide an encouraging degree of predictive capability. The model also assists in highlighting the sensitivity of seepage face development to varying beach face, tide and wave characteristics.     

Short‐term intertidal bar mobility on a ridge‐and‐runnel beach,Merlimont, northern France

Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modeling Coastal Salinity in Quasi 2D and 3D Using a DUALEM‐421 and Inversion Software

Rising sea levels, owing to climate change, are a threat to fresh water coastal aquifers. This is because saline intrusions are caused by increases and intensification of medium‐large scale influences including sea level rise, wave climate, tidal cycles, and shifts in beach morphology. Methods are therefore required to understand the dynamics of these interactions. While traditional borehole and galvanic contact resistivity (GCR) techniques have been successful they are time‐consuming. Alternatively, frequency‐domain electromagnetic (FEM) induction is potentially useful as physical contact with the ground is not required. A DUALEM‐421 and EM4Soil inversion software package are used to develop a quasi two‐ (2D) and quasi three‐dimensional (3D) electromagnetic conductivity images (EMCI) across Long Reef Beach located north of Sydney Harbour, New South Wales, Australia. The quasi 2D models discern: the dry sand (<10 mS/m) associated with the incipient dune; sand with fresh water (10 to 20 mS/m); mixing of fresh and saline water (20 to 500 mS/m), and; saline sand of varying moisture (more than 500 mS/m). The quasi 3D EMCIs generated for low and high tides suggest that daily tidal cycles do not have a significant effect on local groundwater salinity. Instead, the saline intrusion is most likely influenced by medium‐large scale drivers including local wave climate and morphology along this wave‐dominated beach. Further research is required to elucidate the influence of spring‐neap tidal cycles, contrasting beach morphological states and sea level rise.     

Intertidal spring dynamics and coastal nutrient loading revealed through geophysics,drone surveys,and in-situ monitoring

Coastal eutrophication poses an increasing risk to ecosystem health due to enhanced nutrient loading to the global coastline. Submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) represents a significant pathway for nitrate-nitrogen (NO₃-N) transport to the coast, but diffusive SGD transport is difficult to monitor directly, given the low flux rates and expansive discharge areas. In contrast, focused SGD from intertidal springs can potentially be sampled and directly gauged, providing unique insight into SGD and associated contaminant transport. Basin Head is a coastal lagoon in Prince Edward Island, Canada that is a federally protected ecosystem. Nitrate-nitrogen is conveyed from agricultural fields in the contributing watershed to the eutrophic lagoon via intertidal groundwater springs and groundwater-dominated tributaries. We used several field methods to characterize groundwater discharge, nutrient loading, and in-channel mixing associated with intertidal springs. The tributaries and intertidal springs were gauged and sampled to estimate a representative summer nitrate load to the lagoon. Our analysis revealed that NO₃-N export to the lagoon through tributaries and springs throughout summer 2023 was on average 401 kg N/month, with the combined spring loading comparable in magnitude to the combined tributary loading. We collected thermal infrared and visual imagery using drone surveys and found spatial overlap between cold-water plumes from the spring discharge and macroalgae blooms, indicating the local thermal and ecosystem impacts of the focused SGD. We also mapped the electrical resistivity (salinity) distribution in the water column around one large spring with electromagnetic geophysics at different tidal stages to reveal the three-dimensional spring plume dynamics. Results showed that the fresher spring water floated above the saline lagoon water with the brackish plume oriented in the direction of the tidal current. Collectively, our multi-pronged field investigations help elucidate the hydrologic, thermal, and nutrient dynamics of intertidal springs and the cascading ecosystem impacts.     

Estimation of the inland extending length of the freshwater–saltwater interface in coastal unconfined aquifers

ABSTRACT

The inland extending length of the freshwater–saltwater interface toe is useful in studies of seawater intrusion in coastal areas. The submarine fresh groundwater discharge in coastal zones is affected not only by hydraulic conductivity and hydraulic gradient of the aquifer, but also by the position of the interface. Two observation wells at different distances from the coast are required to calculate the fresh groundwater flow rate in coastal unconfined aquifers. By considering that the submarine groundwater discharge is equal to the groundwater flow rate, the length of the interface toe extending inland can be estimated when the groundwater flow is at a steady-flow state. Aquifers with horizontal and sloping confined beds and without/with unique surface vertical infiltration are considered. Examples used to illustrate the application of these methods indicate that the inland extending lengths of the interface toe in aquifers with vertical surface infiltration are much shorter than those in aquifers without vertical surface infiltration, and the length of the interface in aquifers with a horizontal confining lower bed are smaller than those in aquifers with a confining lower bed sloping towards the sea. The extent of the interface on the northwestern coast near the city of Beihai in southern Guangxi, China, on 18 January 2013 was estimated as 471–478 m.

Editor M.C. Acreman Associate editor not assigned     

Preliminary Observation of Complex Salt‐Fresh Water Mixing in a Beach Aquifer

Continuous observations of beach groundwater salinity over a 35‐d period from a monitoring well established in the intertidal zone of a coastal harbor provided intriguing data on the interaction in the intertidal zone between the salt and fresh groundwater. During the monitoring period of the study, both semidiurnal variations and longer temporal trends in groundwater salinity were observed. The semidiurnal salinity variations were observed to occur nearly synchronously, but inconsistently with the tides. However, the salinity relationship with the tides was more complex, switching back and forth from being in‐sync (higher salinities at high tide) to out‐of‐sync (higher salinities at low tide) a total of four times during the 35‐d test period. The longer temporal trends showed chloride concentration (representing salinity) varying from as low as 50 mg/L to as high as 3600 mg/L over a period of between 9 to 12 d. The observations from the monitoring well reveal a complex pattern likely resulting from a combination of tidal pumping, density‐induced convection, and changes in the terrestrial hydraulic gradient. However, these observations are based upon data from only one monitoring well, and are speculative at this point. A more thorough study of the complex fresh water‐saline water relationship in the intertidal zone seems to have merit.     

Effect of tidal forcing on a subterranean estuary

Groundwater flow and chemical transport in subterranean estuaries are poorly understood despite their potentially important implications for chemical fluxes from aquifers to coastal waters. Here, a numerical study of the dynamics in a subterranean estuary subject to tidal forcing is presented. Simulations show that salt transport associated with tidally driven seawater recirculation leads to the formation of an upper saline plume in the intertidal region. Computed transit times and flow velocities indicate that this plume represents a more active zone for mixing and reaction than the dispersion zone of the lower, classical salt wedge. Proper conceptualisation of this surficial mixing zone extends our understanding of processes within the subterranean estuary. Numerical tracer simulations reveal that tidal forcing may reduce the threat of a land-derived contaminant discharging to the marine environment by modifying the subsurface transport pathway and local geochemical conditions. Mixing and stratification in the subterranean estuary are strongly affected by both inland and tidal forcing. Based on the estuarine analogy we present a systematic classification of subterranean estuaries.     

Beach Morphodynamics influenced by an ebb‐tidal delta on the north Florida Atlantic coast

Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Dynamics of intertidal drainage channels on a multi‐barred macrotidal beach

The intertidal drainage channels on a macrotidal bar–trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) beach were monitored during a 17‐day survey. Type 1 channels were persistent, dominantly longshore systems essentially limited to the wide intertidal zone between mean high and low water neap tidal levels. The cumulative length of this channel type fluctuated as a function of topographically controlled through‐flow or flow impedance in troughs, and showed no correlation with the semi‐lunar tidal cycle. Smaller, ephemeral type 2 channels appeared as dominantly cross‐shore systems incising bars on the narrower upper and lower beach zones during spring tides. They disappeared during neap tides through infill by waves and aeolian activity. The only significant phase of type 1 channel mobility occurred during a brief moderate‐energy storm at the start of the survey. The effect of this mobility on beach morphology was inextricably linked to that of waves and currents. Meander bend migration, forced by wave‐ and longshore‐current‐induced migration of a bar during the storm, resulted in important but highly localized morphological change that was only a minor part of an irregular saw‐tooth pattern of change that affected the entire beach profile, and that was largely controlled by wave processes and longshore currents. The flow velocities in channels on this beach are too weak to generate the formation and longshore migration of high‐energy bedforms. Channel mobility and impact on beach morphology are expected to increase under storm conditions. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Characteristics and dynamics of multiple intertidal bars,north Lincolnshire,England

Multiple intertidal bars and troughs, often referred to as ‘ridges and runnels’, are significant features on many macrotidal sandy beaches. Along the coastline of England and Wales, they are particularly prevalent in the vicinity of estuaries, where the nearshore gradient is gentle and a large surplus of sediment is generally present. This paper examines the dynamics of such bar systems along the north Lincolnshire coast. A digital elevation model of the intertidal morphology obtained using LIDAR demonstrates that three to five intertidal bars are consistently present with a spacing of approximately 100 m. The largest and most pronounced bars (height = 0·5–0·8 m) are found around mean sea level, whereas the least developed bars (height = 0·2–0·5 m) occur in the lower intertidal zone. Annual aerial photographs of the intertidal bar morphology were inspected to try to track individual bars from year to year to derive bar migration rates; however, there is little resemblance between concurrent photographs, and ‘resetting’ of the intertidal profile occurs on an annual basis. Three‐dimensional beach surveys were conducted monthly at three locations along the north Lincolnshire coast over a one‐year period. The intertidal bar morphology responds strongly to the seasonal variation in the forcing conditions, and bars are least numerous and flattest during the more energetic winter months. Morphological changes over the monthly time scale are strongly affected by longshore sediment transport processes and the intertidal bar morphology can migrate along the beach at rates of up to 30 m per month. The behaviour of intertidal bars is complex and varies over a range of spatial and temporal scales in response to a combination of forcing factors (e.g. incident wave energy, different types of wave processes, longshore and cross‐shore sediment transport), relaxation time and morphodynamic feedback. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Cross-shelf transport into nearshore waters due to shoaling internal tides in San Pedro Bay, CA

In the summer of 2001, a coastal ocean measurement program in the southeastern portion of San Pedro Bay, CA, was designed and carried out. One aim of the program was to determine the strength and effectiveness of local cross-shelf transport processes. A particular objective was to assess the ability of semidiurnal internal tidal currents to move suspended material a net distance across the shelf. Hence, a dense array of moorings was deployed across the shelf to monitor the transport patterns associated with fluctuations in currents, temperature and salinity. An associated hydrographic program periodically monitored synoptic changes in the spatial patterns of temperature, salinity, nutrients and bacteria. This set of measurements show that a series of energetic internal tides can, but do not always, transport subthermocline water, dissolved and suspended material from the middle of the shelf into the surfzone. Effective cross-shelf transport occurs only when (1) internal tides at the shelf break are strong and (2) subtidal currents flow strongly downcoast. The subtidal downcoast flow causes isotherms to tilt upward toward the coast, which allows energetic, nonlinear internal tidal currents to carry subthermocline waters into the surfzone. During these events, which may last for several days, the transported water remains in the surfzone until the internal tidal current pulses and/or the downcoast subtidal currents disappear. This nonlinear internal tide cross-shelf transport process was capable of carrying water and the associated suspended or dissolved material from the mid-shelf into the surfzone, but there were no observation of transport from the shelf break into the surfzone. Dissolved nutrients and suspended particulates (such as phytoplankton) transported from the mid-shelf into the nearshore region by nonlinear internal tides may contribute to nearshore algal blooms, including harmful algal blooms that occur off local beaches.     

A numerical model for shore-normal sediment size variation on a macrotidal beach

This paper describes a computer simulation model which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling, wave height attenuation due to frictional losses and breaking, using linear theory up to the break point and a breaker decay model in the surf zone. Peak horizontal orbital velocities at the bed are calculated from Stokes second-order wave theory. The peak onshore and offshore velocities are used with the threshold expression of Komar and Miller (1975) to generate a spatial pattern of size variation of threshold grain diameter along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the swash zone. The predicted grain size is used in an hydraulic interpretation of grain size distribution on the intertidal profile, based on the hydrodynamic variations over a tidal cycle on a macrotidal beach. The model is successful in predicting the broad pattern of increasing grain size in the onshore direction which has been observed in nature. Comparisons between measured and predicted grain size distributions indicate that the predictions of the model are better than those of previous models, but the model is more successful at predicting sediment size distributions than at predicting mean sizes on a beach profile.     

Tidal effects on variations of fresh–saltwater interface and groundwater flow in a multilayered coastal aquifer on a volcanic island (Jeju Island, Korea)

We conducted various field studies at the seawater intrusion monitoring wells located in the eastern part of Jeju Island, Korea, to observe the tidal effect on groundwater–seawater flow in the coastal aquifer. Studies included monitoring the fluctuations of groundwater and tide levels, electrical and temperature logging, and 2-D heat-pulse flowmeter tests. According to time-series analysis, tidal effects on groundwater level reached up to 3 km inland from the coastline. Water-level variation was more sensitive to tidal fluctuations near the coast, and more related to rainfall toward inland areas. Temporal and spatial variations in the shape and location of the freshwater–saltwater interface were analyzed using data from nine monitoring wells. The results indicated that the interface toe is located at a distance of 6–8 km from the coastline and its location was related to geological layers present. Long-term seasonal variations revealed no major changes in the interface; minor variations were due to moving boundary conditions induced by tidal fluctuations. Using the two-dimensional heat-pulse flowmeter, groundwater flow directions and velocities at four tidal stages were measured on three monitoring wells drilled into the multilayered aquifers. This direct measurement enabled us to relate the differences of flow velocities and directions with geology and tidal fluctuations. Combining the results of EC logging and flowmeter tests, we found a zone where freshwater and saltwater moved alternately in opposite directions, as influenced by the tidal fluctuations. Integrating various physical logging and flowmeter data with water-level fluctuations improved our understanding of the behavior of fresh and seawater flow in the coastal aquifers.