锋面通过台湾海峡时引起的快速成长波高推算

每年冬季因中国北方冷空气前缘东移出海南下而形成的锋面是造成台湾海峡内恶劣海况的原因之一，锋面的到临常引发快速增高的波浪，这种海况是目前作业化数值预报模式在操作上不易反映的。经验证明根据元素波模式推衍所得的面积风域法推算波浪，适合于推导季风期间海况的一种方法。本文将锋面期间风域是移动的特性结合面积风域理论，作为推算锋面抵达时推算波高的方法。本文提出加权风场内插法计算各时刻各网格点的风速，使得面积风域理论简化为在网格点上的离散计算。文中根据锋面期间实际观测数据计算波能传播速率与风能传播系数等参数，经由案例分析的结果显示这个离散化面积风域法可以合理地推算锋面期间快速成长的波高。     

台湾以东黑潮锋的中尺度过程研究

采用海洋再分析结果,研究了海洋涡旋和锋面波动对台湾以东黑潮锋的影响,结果表明,Rossby波第一斜压模态形成的冷涡(暖涡),减弱(增强)台湾以东黑潮温度锋强度,减小(加大)锋的宽度.在再分析结果中,捕获到1991年1-2月台湾以东的一次黑潮锋面波动.锋面波动的波槽(波脊)到达时,该温度锋强度减弱(增强),宽度和厚度减小...     

Characteristics of acoustic propagation to the eastern vertical line array receiver during the summer 1996 New England shelfbreak PRIMER experiment

During July and August of 1996, the summer component of the New England shelfbreak front PRIMER experiment was fielded in the Mid-Atlantic Bight, at a site due south of Martha's Vineyard, MA. This study produced acoustic transmission data from a network of moored sources and receivers in conjunction with very-high-resolution oceanography measurements. This paper analyzes receptions at the northeast array receiver from two 400 Hz acoustic tomography sources, with the transmission paths going from the continental slope onto the continental shelf. These data, along with forward acoustic-propagation modeling based on moored oceanographic data, SeaSoar hydrography measurements, and bottom measurements, reveal many new and interesting aspects of acoustic propagation in a complicated slope-shelf environment. For example, one sees that both the shelfbreak front and tidally generated soliton internal wave packets produce stronger mode coupling than previously expected, leading to an interesting time-and-range-variable population of the acoustic normal modes. Additionally, the arrival time wander and the signal spread of acoustic pulses show variability that can be attributed to the presence of a frontal meander and variability in the soliton field. These and other effects are discussed in this paper, with an emphasis on creating a strong connection between the environmental measurements and the acoustic field characteristics.     

台湾以东黑潮锋的中尺度过程研究

采用海洋再分析结果,研究了海洋涡旋和锋面波动对台湾以东黑潮锋的影响,结果表明,Rossby波第一斜压模态形成的冷涡(暖涡),减弱(增强)台湾以东黑潮温度锋强度,减小(加大)锋的宽度.在再分析结果中,捕获到1991年1-2月台湾以东的一次黑潮锋面波动.锋面波动的波槽(波脊)到达时,该温度锋强度减弱(增强),宽度和厚度减小...     

Acoustic mode coupling by nonlinear internal wave packets in a shelfbreak front area

A computational case study of coupled-mode 400-Hz acoustic propagation over the distance 27 km on the continental shelf is presented. The mode coupling reported here is caused by lateral gradients of sound-speed within packets of nonlinear internal waves, often referred to as solitary wave packets. In a waveguide having unequal attenuation of modes, directional exchange of energy between low- and high-loss modes, via mode coupling, can become time dependent by the movement of waves and can cause temporally variable loss of acoustic energy into the bottom. Here, that bottom interaction effect is shown to be sensitive to stratification conditions, which determine waveguide properties and, in turn, determine modal attenuation coefficients. In particular, time-dependent energy loss due to the presence of moving internal wave packets is compared for waveguides with and without a frontal feature similar to that found at the shelfbreak south of New England. The mean and variability of acoustic energy level 27 km distant from a source are shown to be altered in a first order way by the presence of the frontal feature. The effects of the front are also shown to be functions of source depth.     

堤前远破波运动与冲淤形态

利用数值波浪水槽,对远破波作用下堤前波浪运动进行了数值模拟。分析了堤前速度场的变化,指出堤前波浪运动在一个波周期内可分为向堤波和离堤波。波浪在距堤约L/2处破碎后向堤冲击并沿堤面爬升,称为向堤波;波浪从堤面最高处回落与向堤波相遇并破碎,称为离堤波。堤前远破波的前半个周期的向堤波速度场大于后半个周期的离堤波速度场,且堤前波浪运动在一个波周期内的前半个周期和后半个周期完全不同。床面某点(L/4,3L/4)的速度在一个波浪周期内随时间呈向堤和离堤变化,向堤速度最大值大于离堤速度的最大值。利用堤前速度场的研究成果,进一步分析了远破波作用下堤前海床冲淤形成过程,完善了冲淤机理。     

规则波作用下台阶地形上墩柱绕流三维数值研究

利用Flow-3D建立三维数值波浪水槽,模拟波浪在不对称台阶地形上的传播。系统研究规则波作用下墩柱周围水流的流动特性,分析墩柱周围的瞬时速度场、涡量场以及KC值变化,不同相位时墩柱前、后水平流速分布情况。结果表明:波浪在台阶地形传播的过程中,墩柱迎水面的涡动结构不够明显;高涡量呈对称状聚集在墩柱的背水面,并形成一对旋转方向相反的涡结构;周期对KC值的影响比波高的影响要明显;墩柱迎水面水平方向流速变化较大,侧面水平流速变化最为剧烈,背面由于受到墩柱的掩护作用水平方向流速变化不大,在墩柱的正面和侧面竖向环流明显。     

Characteristics of storm waves off the Mediterranean coast of Israel

A two-year series of directional wave measurement off the Eastern Mediterranean coast of Israel reveals an abundance of high storm waves. Some of these waves have significant height in excess of 5 meters and periods as long as 15 sec.The evolution of the storm waves is described and related to the growth and paths of the storm fronts in Mid-Mediterranean. Shorter-period waves are found to always lead the arrival of longer-period swell. This characteristic is explained by a short decay distance and/or a high migration velocity of the storm front.The scatter plot of significant wave height vs period for the recorded events of each storm describes an open-loop time sequence. The difference in period between that of the peak height event and the period of a fully arisen sea of the same height is found to be indicative of the true decay distance the waves have travelled.     

Anomalous Decimeter Radio Noise from the Region of the Atmospheric Front: I. Characteristics of the Detected Radio Noise and Meteorological Parameters of the Frontal Cloudiness

An extraordinary experimental fact is presented and analyzed, namely, a rather intense broadband radio noise detected during the passage of an atmospheric front through the field of view of UHF antennas. Local atmospheric properties and possible sources of the extraordinary noise, including the thermal noise from cloudiness and extra-atmospheric sources, are considered. A conclusion is made about the presence of an additional nonthermal source of radio noise in the frontal cloudiness. According to the proposed hypothesis, these are multiple electric microdicharges on hydrometeors in the convective cloud.     

A coupled-mode model for the refraction–diffraction of linear waves over steep three-dimensional bathymetry

A consistent coupled-mode model recently developed by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [1], is generalized in 2+1 dimensions and applied to the diffraction of small-amplitude water waves from localized three-dimensional scatterers lying over a parallel-contour bathymetry. The wave field is decomposed into an incident field, carrying out the effects of the background bathymetry, and a diffraction field, with forcing restricted on the surface of the localized scatterer(s). The vertical distribution of the wave potential is represented by a uniformly convergent local-mode series containing, except of the ususal propagating and evanescent modes, an additional mode, accounting for the sloping bottom boundary condition. By applying a variational principle, the problem is reduced to a coupled-mode system of differential equations in the horizontal space. To treat the unbounded domain, the Berenger perfectly matched layer model is optimized and used as an absorbing boundary condition. Computed results are compared with other simpler models and verified against experimental data. The inclusion of the sloping-bottom mode in the representation substantially accelerates its convergence, and thus, a few modes are enough to obtain accurately the wave potential and velocity up to and including the boundaries, even in steep bathymetry regions. The present method provides high-quality information concerning the pressure and the tangential velocity at the bottom, useful for the study of oscillating bottom boundary layer, sea-bed movement and sediment transport studies.     

Generation of baroclinic wave signatures by moving atmospheric fronts

The paper addresses the plane linear problem on generation of an internal wave in a continuously stratified ocean by a moving atmospheric front. The front exhibits air pressure perturbations, as well as the field of tangential wind stress. In the frame of a model for the planetary atmospheric boundary layer, a relationship between the air pressure and wind fields has been derived, generalizing Ackerbloom's formulae for the case of a moving atmospheric anomaly. Using the Fourier transform, a relation has been obtained for the wave's signature in the wake of a moving atmospheric perturbation, and the respective analysis has been performed. Numerical estimates of the internal wave amplitudes have been acquired for the mean density stratification in the Kuril-Kamchatka region. Comparative analysis of the effectiveness of wave signature generation by the moving areas of surface pressures and tangential wind stresses has been carried out. It has been demonstrated that the latter field determines the effectiveness of baroclinic wave signature generation. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Steepness and spectrum of a nonlinearly deformed wave on shallow waters

The process of nonlinear deformation of a surface wave on shallow waters is investigated. The main attention is given to the relationship between the wave Fourier spectrum and the steepness of wave front slope. It is shown that an unambiguous relationship couples these quantities in the case of an initially sinusoidal wave, which allows estimation of the spectral composition of the wave field from the observed wave steepness.     

内孤立波与平顶海山作用的能量耗散实验研究

内波破碎引起的能量耗散和混合是海洋内部的重要物理过程.通过在二维内波水槽进行实验室实验,分析内波与地形的作用,探究内孤立波与平顶海山地形作用时波要素、能量以及湍耗散率的时空变化.本实验利用重力塌陷法在两层流体中制造第一模态内孤立波,通过粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry,PIV)获得...     

不完全立波的二维数值波浪水槽模拟

利用二维数值波浪水槽研究波浪在防波堤前的运动状态.模型选用Navier-Stokes方程作为基本方程,以有限元法对基本方程进行离散.以直立堤前完全立波和越浪条件的不完全立波、斜坡堤前的不完全立波等典型情况的模拟为基础,组合这些典型情况模拟削角堤前不完全立波运动,探讨其堤前波面、波节点及波腹点位置、波压力等特性变化.     

斜向不规则波入、反射波分离的实验研究

斜向入射的不规则波在海岸结构物前发生反射形成入、反射波共存的波浪场,对这种物理场的入、反射波的分离是海岸工程研究的一个重要课题.改进了一种可用于斜向入射的不规则波分离的两点法,使得测波阵列的两波高仪可布置在结构物前任何方向上.将此方法应用于三维波浪水池的物理模型试验研究,试验了不同的两波高仪的组合、不同的基床高度、不同的入射方向和不同的波浪要素等各种条件对分离结果的影响,结果表明,各种情况在满足非奇异条件下可得到较好的分离结果.该方法计算简便,可以给出较准确的反射系数和入、反射波的频谱.     

海底声学原位测试声速提取技术研究

海底沉积物的声学声速特性是沉积物声学中的一个重要的研究方向。正确提取声学原位测量的声速对海底沉积物声学反演至关重要。分析了海底声学原位测试系统的输出子波特性,提出了基于子波提取的互相关双向极值声速提取法。在声速提取过程中,发现某些通道实测声波到达时会出现超出正常范围的异常。分析后认为异常通道的到达波相位出现180°反至现象。通过互相关数值的负极小值提取的声波到达时对互相关正极大值所获得的到达时曲线进行校正后提取声速,得到了正确的结果,说明了本方法的正确性。     

Scattering of Semidiurnal Internal Kelvin Wave at Step Bottom Topography

A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.     

A coupled-mode system with application to nonlinear water waves propagating in finite water depth and in variable bathymetry regions

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is presented, modelling the evolution of nonlinear water waves in finite depth over a general bottom topography. The vertical structure of the wave field is represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional terms, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The present coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion, and the local-mode series exhibits fast convergence. Thus, a small number of modes (up to 5–6) are usually enough for precise numerical solution. In the present work, the coupled-mode system is applied to the numerical investigation of families of steady travelling wave solutions in constant depth, corresponding to a wide range of water depths, ranging from intermediate depth to shallow-water wave conditions, and its results are compared vs. Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, as well as with fully nonlinear Fourier methods. Furthermore, numerical results are presented for waves propagating over variable bathymetry regions and compared with nonlinear methods based on boundary integral formulation and experimental data, showing good agreement.     

孟加拉湾一次热带气旋过程的海浪场模拟分析

基于第3代海浪模式WW3(WAVEWATCH-III),以具有高精度和较高分辨率的CCMP(Cross-Calibrated, Multi-Platform)风场为驱动场,对2011年12月发生在孟加拉湾的热带气旋“Thane”所致的大浪进行数值模拟。结果表明:(1)以CCMP风场驱动WW3海浪模式,可以较好地模拟热带气旋“Thane”在孟加拉湾造成的大浪,模拟的海浪数据具有较高精度。当有效波高(SWH)在2 m以内和大于5 m时,模拟值略小于观测值;当SWH在2~5 m之间时,模拟值略大于观测值。(2)热带气旋“Thane”所形成的大风和大浪的分布特征具有一定差异:大风区在气旋四周分布较为均匀;在大洋中部时,大浪区主要分布于右半圆,在近海时,大浪区主要分布于气旋行进方向的前方。(3)热带气旋“Thane”的风向和波向整体上保持了较好的一致性,仅在第2象限有一定的差异,该区域的风向主要为西北向,而波向则主要为偏北向。