一种改进的近岸波浪破碎数值模型

提出一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的改进波浪破碎模型,用于模拟近岸浅水波浪破碎.模型借助水滚的概念,提出一种确定k方程紊动模式中紊动源项的计算公式,通过解k方程计算Boussinesq方程中的涡黏系数,实现对破碎波的模拟.岸边界采用窄缝法,使得模型可用于波浪爬坡的计算.用实验室实测波高和增减水资料对模型进行了验证,得到了一致的结果.紊动源、紊动动能以及紊动耗散率的计算结果表明:①在破波点处紊动源项值最大,随着波浪向岸边传播,逐渐减小;②破波点处,水平方向的对流和扩散在紊动能量输移中发挥重要作用;③岸边附近紊动源与紊动耗散接近平衡.     

南极普里兹湾夏季海冰边缘区内破碎海冰的分布特征

基于中国第21次南极考察中获得的69°00'S、76°24'E附近普里兹湾夏季海冰边缘区内破碎海冰的航拍照片,利用图像处理的方法从中提取了破碎海冰的若干几何参数,得到了海冰边缘区内随着与开阔水域距离增大,海冰面积、平均钳测直径等几何参数的变化规律。并按其尺寸的变化规律将海冰边缘区划分为边界区、过渡区和内部区三部分,其变化和波浪在冰边缘区中的衰减过程紧密相关。圆度的变化则说明海冰边缘区中海冰磨损最充分的地方是在冰间相互作用最明显的过渡区。另外,一种改进的幂函数分布和Weibull分布用来对破碎海冰尺寸的累积频率进行拟合,分布函数中各参数的变化情况很好的反映了海冰边缘区内破碎海冰的分布变化。其中,参数L_r随着与开阔水距离增加而增大(说明由于波能衰减导致可以出现的破碎海冰最大尺寸的增加);尺度参数L₀随着与开阔水距离增加而增大(反映了破碎海冰平均尺寸的增加以及由于波能的衰减而导致单位面积区域内尺寸较大的破碎海冰所占比例的增加);分布维数D随着与开阔水距离增加而减小(说明了由于波能的衰减导致破碎海冰所受约束条件的减弱);形状参数γ随着与开阔水距离增加而减小(说明了随着波能的衰减破碎海冰尺寸分布范围的增大)。     

近岸波生流运动三维数值模拟及验证

开发建立了近岸波生流运动三维数值计算模式。模式中,引入了三维时均剩余动量、破波表面水滚、波浪水平与垂向紊动作为主要驱动力,同时考虑了波流共同作用的底部剪切力。推导了可综合反映底坡、能量传递率和密度影响的水滚能量传输方程;将Larson-Kraus的二维波浪水平紊动系数表达式拓展至三维。采用大量实测数据和文献资料测试验证了所建模式,表明所建模式可有效模拟波浪增减水、底部离岸流、沿岸流、裂流、堤后环流等不同维度的波生流现象。此外,研究也表明破波水滚效应可解释波生流峰值向岸推移的物理现象,从而在模拟中不能忽略;破波带内沿岸流速垂向较为均匀的现象与波浪附加垂向紊动有关。     

淹没刚性植被明渠紊流沿程流动特性差异

淹没刚性植被通过改变水流结构,造成时均流速、紊动强度、雷诺应力等水力参数垂线分布不均匀和沿程差异化。采用声学多普勒测速仪(ADV)测量3种淹没度(3.0、4.0、5.0)下的流速,结合统计学方法,系统分析植被段内及其上、下游过渡段流速和紊动特性差异。结果表明：植被显著增强了水流紊动,且紊动特性取值与淹没度正相关;植被段内流速差异在低淹没度下的植被层内和高淹没度下的自由流动层内更加显著,而紊动特性沿程增强,且垂线分布具有相似性,最大值点位于冠层顶部附近;当淹没度满足KH涡的形成和发展条件时,随淹没度的增大,植被段内紊动特性垂线分布出现转折点(临近此点梯度急剧减小并趋于0)的断面数量增多,经验证,在充分发展的紊流区此点可作为KH涡的上边界点。     

黄河口潮滩粉土体固结非均匀性研究

通过分析直立堤前海床地貌和深度剖面方向贯入强度特性及相邻自由海床剖面方向贯入强度特性,研究了黄河口潮滩粉土体动力响应的非均匀性。研究发现：沿海床剖面不仅存在水平硬层,同时也存在竖直硬层,且竖直硬层与水动力条件有关。结合现场循环冲击荷载试验和直立堤前多孔介质海床数值模型,解释粉土海床非均匀性形成的机制：由于粉土体中细小无黏性颗粒在波浪作用下逐渐脱离土骨架,在土体中缓慢流动汇聚,在后期波浪改造累积作用下固结排水强度增大,形成强度不同的地带,导致土体动力响应的非均匀性。     

淹没植物明渠床面冲淤及其对水流运动的影响

植物的存在改变了河流水动力特性,造成独特的床面冲淤态势。利用实验室水槽模拟含淹没植物的河道,对床面形态和紊流统计特性参数进行测量,研究不同类型紊流作用下的床面冲淤特征以及床面起伏对流动的影响。结果表明:床面剪切紊流条件下,床面形态为马蹄坑-沙沟/沙脊与沙波复合分布,床面变形加剧了流速沿水深不均匀分布并促进水流动量交换;在自由剪切混合层紊流条件下,床面形态为植物根部马蹄形冲坑及其后方沙沟、沙脊交错分布,床面变形对流动的影响并不显著;“类二重紊流”条件下,床面形态同样表现为马蹄坑-沙沟/沙脊-沙波复合,床面变形促进植物层内部的水流动量交换、抑制紊动清扫,抑制植物层外部的动量交换、促进紊动喷射。     

新近系保德组沉积薄弱区红土阻水性能及其资源开发意义

关键隔水层沉积薄弱区阻水性能的深入研究对于矿井生产安全和生态水资源保护均具有重要意义。基于区域沉积特征重新优化钻孔数据,研究榆神矿区红土沉积厚度的分布规律,并探讨与红土阻水性能相关的微观工程特性和控制因素。结果表明,红土沉积厚度从西北向东南逐渐增大,并且随着河流的演化,红土分布变得极不均匀,红土缺失区面积达到48.80%。在垂直方向上通过粒径分析和渗透试验表明,红土的阻水性能随着红土沉积深度的增加而增强;在水平方向上通过微观结构和物质组成分析表明,红土的隔水性能与其沉积厚度并非简单的线性关系,随着红土沉积厚度的减小,薄弱区红土的隔水性能急剧下降。基于稳定达西流速概念计算了非完全阻水的红土薄弱区临界厚度,通过多源数据融合,得到榆神矿区红土阻水性能的分区。榆神矿区红土工程特性及阻水性能的系统研究可为红土薄弱区内矿井查清隐蔽致灾地质因素、实现关键隔水层保护及再建以及指导煤水双资源协同共采工程实践等方面提供重要的理论依据。     

涂抹区重叠竖井地基固结特性研究

在软基处理工程中,经常出现竖井打设变密而地基固结效率降低的现象。鉴于此,建立了重叠涂抹区内土体水平向渗透系数的分布函数,给出了涂抹区重叠时竖井地基超静孔压和平均固结度的解析解。通过分析不同工况下竖井地基固结度随竖井间距的变化情况,探究了竖井间距减小而地基固结效率不增反减的成因。最后,探讨了涂抹作用和井阻作用对竖井最小临界间距的影响。结果表明：相邻竖井涂抹区重叠是竖井地基中出现竖井最小临界间距的根本原因。涂抹作用越大,则竖井最小临界间距越大;具体表现为当地基扰动程度增大时或涂抹区半径增大时,竖井最小临界间距随之增大。井阻作用越大,则竖井最小临界间距越小;具体表现为当竖井渗透系数减小时、竖井长度增大时或竖井半径减小时,竖井最小临界间距随之减小。     

典型窝崩三维数值模拟

窝崩是冲积河流常见的一种崩岸类型,具有发展速度快、破坏力强等特点,且不易成功模拟。以长江下游扬中河段指南村窝崩为例,基于窝崩机理及其力学模式,采用考虑回流区紊动影响的挟沙力公式模拟窝塘内泥沙输移,初步建立了窝崩三维数值模拟方法。研究结果表明:窝崩发生初期窝塘内局部水流具有底层流速大于上层流速的特征,这为窝塘底部及坡脚淘刷提供了动力条件;窝塘内回流区水流挟沙力的计算对窝崩形态模拟结果存在显著影响,考虑回流区紊动影响的泥沙输移特性后,模拟结果与实测结果基本吻合,可较好地模拟窝崩的快速发展过程。研究成果可为窝崩机理的深入认识和窝崩治理提供科技支撑。     

风化红砂岩残积土路基瞬态饱和区动态水压力特征试验研究

连续降雨条件下,风化红砂岩残积土路基瞬态饱和区动态水压力特征是深刻认识反复翻浆冒泥病害机制的关键。采用不排水动三轴试验,模拟路基瞬态饱和区列车加载频率和连续降雨条件下排水边界条件,开展路基瞬态饱和区动态水压力特征试验研究。分析了细颗粒含量对风化红砂岩残积土路基瞬态饱和区动态水压力的影响,揭示了路基瞬态饱和区细颗粒含量临界值约为25%。当细颗粒含量小于25%时,动态水压力随细颗粒含量的增加而增大;当细颗粒含量大于25%时,动态水压力随细颗粒含量的增加而减小。引入等效粒间孔隙比的概念,解释了细颗粒含量临界值的微观机制和物理意义。基于试验构建了考虑细颗粒含量的风化红砂岩残积土路基瞬态饱和区动态水压力经验模型,分析了模型参数随细颗粒含量变化的敏感性。该模型有助于工程技术人员预测连续降雨条件下铁路路基瞬态饱和区动态水压力。     

考虑渗流效应的冲流带泥沙起动机理研究

为揭示内部渗流对海岸冲流带泥沙起动的影响,系统地开展了斜坡海床冲流特性与泥沙起动机理研究。通过室内水槽开展了孤立波在可渗透和不可渗透斜坡海床上的冲流试验,测试了冲流过程中波高、波速等变化规律;建立了渗透海床冲流数值模型并通过试验结果进行验证;深入分析了床面渗流对其波浪流场动态特征以及床面泥沙起动的影响机理。研究表明,床面渗流作用加剧波浪的不对称性,在波浪上冲过程中因床面强入渗作用而增大了床面切应力;回流过程因入渗所造成流量损失而导致床面切应力减小。床面渗流引起床面颗粒有效重度和切应力变化而导致泥沙希尔兹数大大增加,加剧了泥沙起动现象,且床面切应力改变是引起泥沙希尔兹数变化的主要因素。     

利用滩坝砂体规模研究古风力的定量恢复*

古风力是一项重要的古气候指标,其定量恢复是一个难题。风作用于水体产生的波浪大小间接地反映了风力,能够为古风力的恢复提供思路。发育于破浪带和冲浪回流带的破浪沙坝、沿岸沙坝分别记录了破浪和冲浪过程,作者分别介绍利用古湖泊中发育的破浪沙坝和沿岸沙坝进行古波况和古风力恢复的原理和操作流程。(1)根据破浪沙坝的几何形态,可以将其厚度与破浪水深建立函数关系,而破浪水深又由破浪波高决定,因此破浪沙坝厚度可以恢复破浪波高,据此可以进一步根据波浪统计关系恢复有效波高、根据风浪关系恢复风力。此方法依托以下3个参数: 单期次的破浪沙坝厚度、破浪沙坝的基座坡角、古风程。(2)沿岸沙坝厚度近似记录了冲浪的极限高度,后者受控于有效波高,据此也可以恢复有效波高和风力。此方法依托以下5个参数: 单期次的沿岸沙坝厚度、古(平均)水深、古风程、古风向相对于岸线的入射角、组成沿岸沙坝的沉积物粒度。上述2种方法综合性较强,涉及古风向、古地形坡度、风程或盆地直径、古水深等参数的恢复,需要综合运用古地貌恢复、去压实校正、古岸线识别、古水深恢复等技术,并需要结合波浪理论。古湖泊滨岸带地层中保存有大量的滩坝沉积,利用其恢复古波况和古风况具有一定的应用前景,能够有助于更详细地重建沉积盆地的古地理背景。     

Persistent Differences in Horizontal Gradients in Phytoplankton Concentration Maintained by Surf Zone Hydrodynamics

Surf zones, regions of breaking waves, are at the interface between the shore and coastal ocean. Surf zone hydrodynamics may affect delivery of phytoplankton subsidies to the intertidal zone. Over a month of daily sampling at an intermediate surf zone with bathymetric rip currents and a reflective surf zone, we measured surf zone hydrodynamics and compared concentrations of coastal phytoplankton taxa in the surf zones to concentrations offshore. At the intermediate surf zone, ~80% of the variability in the concentration of coastal phytoplankton taxa within the surf zone was explained by their variation offshore; however, concentrations were much higher and lower than those offshore in samples from a bathymetric rip current and over the adjacent shoal, respectively. Hydrodynamics at this intermediate surf zone did not hinder the delivery of coastal phytoplankton to the surf zone, but the bathymetric rip current system appeared to redistribute phytoplankton concentrating them within eddies. At the reflective shore, we sampled surf zones at a beach and two adjacent rocky intertidal sites. Concentrations of typical coastal phytoplankton taxa were usually an order of magnitude or more lower than those offshore, even when offshore samples were collected just 20 m beyond the breakers. The phytoplankton assemblages inside and outside the surf zone often appeared to be disconnected. Surf zone hydrodynamics at the steep, reflective shore coupled with low phytoplankton concentrations in near-surface water appeared to limit delivery of phytoplankton subsidies to the surf zone. Surf zone hydrodynamics may be a key factor in the alongshore variation in phytoplankton subsidies to coastal communities.     

A review of some current trends in nearshore research

Studies of sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone cover a broad spectrum of disciplines and it is difficult to determine what particular trend is emerging in current research because many problems, particularly those confronting coastal engineers, are practical rather than academic and consequently demand rapid solution. Restrictive physical factors, such as heavy swell and wave turbulence in the breaker area, have undoubtedly limited in situ measurements and may partly account for the apparent poor correlation between field data and laboratory results and theoretical prediction. The development of sophisticated field instrumentation is an attempt to resolve this problem and this Review draws attention to some of the more recent techniques that have been reported in the extensive literature during the last decade or so.For the purpose of this paper, the nearshore zone is sub-divided into swash, surf/breaker and offshore zones. A summary is given of littoral transport rates, particularly with regard to the value of tracer experiments and models, and the difficulty of measuring surge-swash velocities and bottom profiles is assessed. Brief mention is made of swash percolation and groundwater flow and, bearing in mind the engineering problem of arresting the loss of beach sand to the backshore and dune system of some coastlines, the shear stress of sea breeze has also been evaluated. The problems of predicting changes in the plan shape of beaches and in the rate of mobility of shingle under wave action are discussed. Methods for measuring suspended sediment and bulk density are also described. Variations in wave refraction and wave energy relative to theoretical computation are appraised and reference is made to the use of radar in hydrodynamic surveying.Other sections of the review refer to the relationship that appears to exist between edge waves and crescentic bars; and the use of photography in studying coastal processes.     

Storm extreme levels and coastal flood hazards: A parametric approach on the French coast of Languedoc (district of Leucate)

Coastal flooding is a significant risk on the shores of Languedoc-Roussillon. The storms that periodically hit the coast can generate strong swells and storm surges. Most beach resorts, built on a low elevation dune ridge, are periodically flooded during major storms. Although risks zoning regulations take into consideration coastal flood hazards, the delineation of vulnerable areas is still insufficient and the commonly accepted threshold is regularly exceeded during most severe storms. This paper presents a method to improve the assessment of extreme storm-related water levels. It relies on fieldwork carried out in the Leucate commune (Aude), which is particularly exposed to the risk of sea level rise. It considers both storm surges and wave phenomena that occur within the surf zone (set-up and swash), calculated from the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN^®) numerical wave model and the Stockdon formula. Water levels reached during several recent storm events have been reconstructed and simulations of submerged areas were carried out by numerical modelling.     

青海湖东南岸现代滩坝沉积模式与识别标志

青海湖是研究湖泊滩坝的有利区域。通过对青海湖现代滩坝的实地考察和精细解剖,对滩坝的沉积特征、形成机制、沉积序列、沉积模式、识别标志等方面进行了系统研究。青海湖滩坝发育3种岩相,即块状砾质砂岩相、块状砾岩相和递变砂砾岩相。结合岩相分布和现代湖岸水动力观测,将青海湖波浪带划分为对称浪带、歪浪带、破浪带和冲洗浪带,并据此建立了青海湖滩坝沉积模式。提出滩坝相较于河口坝的4点关键识别标志:(1)岩性底界面接触关系差异,滩坝与下伏半深湖泥质沉积总是突变接触,有明显的突变面,而河口坝则是渐变接触;(2)滩坝垂向上发育典型的“ABC”序列,沉积物自底至顶呈细-粗-细的变化;(3)滩坝普遍发育冲洗层理,以及向陆倾斜的漫越层,而河口坝主要发育槽状交错层理;(4)砂体走向差异,滩坝砂体走向总体平行于湖岸,而河口坝砂体走向总体垂直于湖岸。     

Characteristics of sediment in transport in the swash zone of a steep estuarine foreshore

Cross‐shore grading of sediment has been observed on the surface of estuarine beaches but the swash zone processes responsible for this grading have not been measured. This study was conducted to provide an explanation for the cross‐shore grading of sediment on a predominantly sandy estuarine foreshore. Data on wave and swash characteristics and sediment trapped in the uprush and backwash during 25 swash events were gathered from mid‐rising to mid‐falling tide on a small transgressive barrier in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA. Sediment is predominantly quartz and feldspar, medium to coarse sands with a gravel fraction of granules and pebbles. Wave energies increased with tidal rise. The percentage of gravel in transport in the uprush and backwash is similar (11% and 13%) during the rising tide when the swash zone is at mid‐foreshore, decreases in the uprush (9%) and increases in the backwash (18%) when the swash zone is on the upper foreshore. When the swash zone is at mid‐foreshore on the falling tide, the quantity of gravel in the backwash (30%) is greater than in the uprush (24%). The low proportion of gravel within the foreshore prior to trapping, and the increase in the percentage of gravel when the waves and swash are on the upper foreshore, suggests that the step is the primary source of gravel high on the foreshore. The size of the step increases as wave heights increase with tidal rise. The rate of delivery of gravel into the swash is enhanced by sediment entrained during wave breaking and interaction of the uprush with the previous backwash. The lag in the rate of step migration relative to breaker migration during the falling tide increases the likelihood of mining gravel from the step and subsequent transport in the uprush and backwash. These findings are important for low energy estuarine beaches sensitive to small changes in tidal range and wave energy that cause sedimentological change across the foreshore.     

海岸带波浪破碎区污染物运动的实验研究

由于波浪在岸滩上的演化、破碎使得污染物在海岸带的运动规律变得十分复杂。通过实验模拟,研究了缓坡海岸(坡度为1:100和1:40)波浪破碎区污染物的运动规律,给出了不同时刻污染物在该区域的运动变化趋势。讨论并分析了在斜向规则入射波、不规则入射波及不同入射波波高作用下污染物在沿岸波浪破碎区域的运动变化方向和相应的运动范围分布规律。给出并分析了近岸波浪破碎区域污染物运动分布规律。     

Effect of a submerged bay-mouth breakwater on tsunami behavior analyzed by 2D/3D hybrid model simulation

The hybrid numerical model had been developed to simulate a complicated 3D flow around structures generated by tsunami. In the model, the conventional 2D model is adopted for the wide region far from structures and the 3D non-hydrostatic pressure model is used in the limited region adjacent to structures. The applicability of the model is shown by comparisons of the numerical results with the experimental results of the laboratory model tests and the numerical analysis results of the conventional whole 2D simulation. In addition, the effect of a submerged structure at the opening of a breakwater is discussed from the numerical simulations by the hybrid model. The submerged structure improves the stability of the rubble mound and reduces the tsunami inflow into the bay, while it increases the water surface velocity around the opening of the breakwater. The increase of surface velocity causes the increases of impulsive forces by collision with drafts and so on.