基于FLUENT的波浪溢流水动力数值模拟

波浪溢流现象使得海堤受到了越浪和溢流的联合作用,复杂的水动力过程会引起海堤后坡产生严重的侵蚀破坏。基于FLUENT软件建立了二维数值波浪溢流水槽模型,该模型运用UDF速度边界造波法分析在不同超高条件下海堤后坡流量和水流厚度的水力学特性。结果表明数值模拟结果与前人物理模型试验结果吻合,该模型可以真实地模拟出海堤波浪溢流现象。在此基础上进一步研究了波浪溢流中越浪和溢流在不同相对超高条件下的主导性作用,而后建立了十分准确的波浪溢流海堤后坡稳定水流厚度计算公式。     

决口海堤洪水波传播模拟和分析研究I:方法和验证

选用水槽和港池物理模型方法以及已有的一些物理模型试验成果,结合SWASH模型,对孤立波在海堤斜坡上的爬高和越浪进行验证,确定合适的计算参数;计算和分析几种不同内坡形式的海堤堤顶决口,确定合适的海堤内坡边界条件。研究分析表明,验证后的SWASH模型可以用来进行海侧来波和陆域越堤波浪的联合计算,为决口海堤洪水波传播模拟和分析奠定了基础。     

决口海堤洪水波传播模拟和分析研究Ⅰ:方法和验证

选用水槽和港池物理模型方法以及已有的一些物理模型试验成果,结合SWASH模型,对孤立波在海堤斜坡上的爬高和越浪进行验证,确定合适的计算参数;计算和分析几种不同内坡形式的海堤堤顶决口,确定合适的海堤内坡边界条件。研究分析表明,验证后的SWASH模型可以用来进行海侧来波和陆域越堤波浪的联合计算,为决口海堤洪水波传播模拟和分析奠定了基础。     

波浪爬高随消波平台宽度变化的一种现象

笔者在水槽中用带平台的复坡式海堤进行断面要素和堤前波要素对波浪爬高影响的试验中,发现在某些条件下,随平台加宽,波浪爬高起先减小,然后增加,接着又减小。在试验范围内,增加的数值已达到0.41米。就笔者接触到的文献中,均未提及这一现象,现有的波浪爬高计算公式中也未予考虑,如果忽视,可能会对海堤工程的安全产生不良后果。     

陡墙式海堤平台对波浪爬高影响

通过物理模型试验研究陡墙式海堤复坡平台高程和宽度对波浪爬高的影响。平台越宽对波浪爬高影响越大,平台位于静水位处对波浪爬高影响最大,并得出了受平台影响的波浪爬高折减系数计算公式,可供工程参考使用。     

侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对沙坝-潟湖海岸的冲淤影响研究

全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。     

沙质岸坡上波浪传播变形及动力响应特性研究

波浪作用对水库岸坡稳定性有重要影响。为了解波浪在岸坡地形中的传播演变机制和孔隙水压力响应特性,在波浪水槽末端铺设长6 m、坡度1∶16的斜坡沙床进行试验。通过改变入射波浪参数,测量斜坡段各处波面形态,采集斜坡段不同位置处孔隙水压力,分析了波浪在沙质岸坡上浅水变形区域内波面变化特征、波能演变规律以及岸坡土体孔压特征。结果表明：随着入射波浪厄塞尔数的增大,波浪浅水变形更加明显,波形不对称性加剧,各阶谐波之间互相作用更加强烈;水深较大区域,岸坡渗透作用大于浅水变形作用,波高呈现减小趋势;浅水变形剧烈区,浅水变形作用大于岸坡渗透作用,波高呈现增大趋势,最终破碎;孔压随入射波高与波周期的增大而增大,岸坡不同位置处孔压沿深度衰减速率和随波高增长速率均不同;岸坡孔压沿深度衰减速率与入射波周期呈现出正相关关系,与波高并无太大关系。     

波浪在混合式海堤上的爬高

本文通过模型试验以及对影响波浪爬高诸主要因素的递推分析法,分析了波高、波长、平台宽、平台顶高程、斜坡坡比及相对水深等因素对混合式海堤上波浪爬高的影响,并给出了计算波浪爬高的经验公式。     

胜利油田海堤风暴潮致损初始机制与过程分析

海堤损毁严重威胁着沿海地区人民生命财产安全和油气田正常运行。台风风暴潮期间有越浪时,海堤损毁发生迅速,海堤致损初始机制和破坏过程难以掌握。本文依据“利奇马”台风风暴潮期间损毁的东营胜利油田桩12海堤,建立室内物理模型,对海堤破坏的致损初始机制和破坏过程进行研究。结果表明：在堤顶路面发生破坏和不发生破坏两种工况下,堤内掏蚀空洞的发育情况是台风风暴潮使海堤损毁的重要因素,波浪经空洞对斜坡护面的浮托和推动,使得下部堆积散体暴露并被波浪冲走。通过本次室内模型试验,明确海堤致损初始机制,直观展示海堤破坏过程,为后续油气田海堤修复、修建工作提供数据支撑和理论依据。     

一种波浪作用下软质海崖侵蚀量计算模型

基于波浪作用下软质海崖的侵蚀机理,考虑波浪水动力和海崖土质条件,建立了一种波浪作用下软质海崖侵蚀量的计算模型,利用室内水槽试验进行验证和参数回归,并使用该模型计算了平潭岛东北部软质海崖的侵蚀状况,与实测数据进行对比分析。研究发现：（1）海崖最大侵蚀量基本发生在静水位线处,随波浪持续作用,最大侵蚀量位置有所上移,当波浪持续作用一定时间时侵蚀基本停止;（2）当波高超过某一临界值时,侵蚀才会发生,而波高非常大的波浪对侵蚀的贡献相对不是很大;（3）平潭岛东北部的两处海崖,每次强台风连续作用8h时的侵蚀距离计算值为0.31m和0.25m。     

Erosional equivalences of levees: Steady and intermittent wave overtopping

Present criteria for acceptable grass covered levee overtopping are based on average overtopping values but do not include the effect of overtopping duration. This paper applies experimental steady state results for acceptable overtopping to the case of intermittent wave overtopping. Laboratory results consisting of velocities and durations for acceptable land side levee erosion due to steady flows are examined to determine the physical basis for the erosion. Three bases are examined: (1) velocity above a threshold value, (2) shear stress above a threshold value, and (3) work above a threshold value. The work basis provides the best agreement with the data and a threshold work value and a work index representing the summation of the product of work above the threshold and time are developed. The governing equations for flow down the land side of a levee establish that the flows near the land side levee toe will be supercritical. Wave runup is considered to be Rayleigh distributed with the runup above the levee crest serving as a surrogate for overtopping. Two examples illustrating application of the methodology are presented. Example 1 considers three qualities of grass cover: good, average, and poor. The required levee elevations for these three covers differ by 1.8 m. The results for Example 1 are compared with the empirical criteria of 0.1 liters per second per meter (l/s per m), 1.0  l/s per m, and 10.0  l/s per m. It is found that the required crest elevation by the methodology recommended herein for the “poor” cover is only slightly lower than for the criterion for average overtopping of q=10.0  l/s per m but significantly lower than for the overtopping criterion of 1.0 and 0.1 m/s per m. Example 2 considers two durations of the peak surge with the result that the longer duration peak surge requires a levee that is higher by approximately 0.8 m.     

Laboratory study of combined wave overtopping and storm surge overflow of a levee

Combined wave overtopping and storm surge overflow of a levee with a trapezoidal cross section was studied in a two-dimensional laboratory wave/flow flume at a nominal prototype-to-model length scale of 25-to-1. The goal of this study was to develop design guidance in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Time series of water depth at two locations on the levee crown and flow thickness at five locations on the landward-side slope were measured along with horizontal velocity near the landward edge of the crown. New equations are presented for average overtopping discharge, distribution of instantaneous discharge, and distribution of individual wave volumes. Equations are also given for mean flow thickness, RMS wave height, mean velocity, and velocity of the wave front down the landward-side slope.     

An application of Boussinesq modeling to Hurricane wave overtopping and inundation

Wave and combined wave-and-surge overtopping was significant across a large portion of the hurricane protection system of New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina. In particular, along the east-facing levees of the Mississippi River-Gulf Outlet (MRGO), the overtopping caused numerous levee breaches. This paper will focus on the MRGO levees, and will attempt to recreate the hydrodynamic conditions during Katrina to provide an estimate of the experienced overtopping rates. Due to the irregular beach profiles leading up to the levees and the general hydrodynamic complexity of the overtopping in this area, a Boussinesq wave model is employed. This model is shown to be accurate for the prediction of waves shoaling and breaking over irregular beach profiles, as well as for the overtopping of levees. With surge levels provided by ADCIRC and nearshore wave heights by STWAVE, the Boussinesq model is used to predict conditions at the MRGO levees for 10 h near the peak of Katrina. The peak simulated overtopping rates correlate well with expected levee damage thresholds and observations of damage in the levee system. Finally, the predicted overtopping rates are utilized to estimate a volumetric flooding rate as a function of time for the entire 20 km stretch of east-facing MRGO levees.     

Layer thicknesses and velocities of wave overtopping flow at seadikes

Seadikes often fail due to wave overtopping and a failure of the landward slope. Therefore, these aspects have to be taken into account for the design of seadikes. In present design, the calculation of the crest height of seadikes is essentially based on using a design water level and the corresponding wave run-up height. An average overtopping rate is generally considered for wave overtopping which can not account for the stresses and other effects due to extreme individual overtopping events. Landward slope design is more or less based on experience. It can be concluded from failure analysis that dike failures on the landward slope are rather initiated by individual overtopping events, in particular by the related overtopping flow velocities and layer thicknesses which are relevant for the prediction of erosion, infiltration and slip failure. Therefore, overtopping flow velocities and layer thicknesses are required in addition to average overtopping rates as hydraulic boundary conditions for the geotechnical stability analysis of seadikes.The objective of the present paper is the theoretical and experimental determination of overtopping flow velocities and layer thicknesses on the seaward slope, the dike crest and the landward slope of a seadike. Overtopping parameters are derived on the basis of small scale model tests which are required for the design of the landward slope and to avoid dike failures by wave overtopping in the future. For the prediction of the layer thicknesses and the velocities of the overtopping flow on the seaward slope, the dike crest and the landward slope, a set of theoretical formulas is derived and validated by hydraulic scale model tests.     

沙质海岸波浪动床模型设计—毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷试验模型

本文结合毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷模型的试验研究探讨了海岸波浪动床模型的相似律和试验波浪要素的确定。作者推导获得了同时满足波浪作用下岸滩剖面冲淤相似、沿程冲淤部位相似、泥沙起动相似和沉降相似的综合相似比尺公式：λρｓ－ρ＝λ＾１／３ｌ．λ＾１／６Ｄ；λｄ＝（λＤ／λｔ）＾２／３解决了波浪冲刷动床模型的基本相似问题和砂的选砂问题。对于常浪向与强浪向不一致的海岸，作者提出了采用综合考虑波高、波周期（或波     

Analysis of overtopping flow on sea dikes in oblique and short-crested waves

Dike resilience against wave overtopping has gained more and more attention in recent years due to the effect of expected future climate changes. The overtopping flow velocities and flow depths on dikes have recently been studied in 2D small-scale experiments. This has led to semi-empirical formulae for the estimation of flow depths and flow velocities across a dike. The results have been coupled to the actual erosion of the landward dike slope determined by full-scale 2D tests using the so-called “Overtopping Simulator”. This paper describes the results from 96 small-scale tests carried out in a shallow water basin at Aalborg University to cover the so far unknown 3D effects from oblique long-crested and short-crested waves. Based on results from the laboratory tests, expansions are proposed to the existing 2D formulae so as to cover oblique and short-crested waves. The wave obliquity is seen to significantly reduce the overtopping flow velocities and flow depths on especially the landward slope of a sea dike. Moreover, the tests showed that the average flow directions on the dike crest from oblique long-crested and short-crested waves correspond approximately to the incident wave direction. Flow depths and the squared flow velocities on the dike are concluded to be Rayleigh-distributed in case of both long-crested and short-crested waves for all considered incident wave obliquities. Findings in the present paper are needed to obtain more realistic estimates of dike erosion caused by wave overtopping.     

Predictions on Irregular Wave run-up and Overtopping

A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on analysis of the influences of wave steepness, structure slope, incident wave angle, width of the berm and water depth on the berm and the wave run-up, empirical formulas for wave run-up on dike are proposed. Moreover, empirical formula on estimating the wave run-up on composite slope with multiple berms is presented for practical application of complex dike cross-section. The present study shows that the influence factors for wave overtopping are almost the same as those for wave run-up and the trend of the wave overtopping variation with main influence parameters is also similar to that for wave run-up. The trend of the wave overtopping discharge variations can be well described by two main factors, i.e. the wave run-up and the crest freeboard of the structure. A new prediction method for wave overtopping discharge is proposed for random waves. The proposed prediction formulas are applied to case study of over forty cases and the results show that the prediction methods are good enough for practical design purposes.     

Experimental study on mechanism of sea-dike failure due to wave overtopping

This work, which was largely a fruit of China's national marine hazard mitigation service, explicitly reveals the major mechanism of sea-dike failure during wave overtopping. A large group of wave-flume experiments were conducted for sea dikes with varying geometric characteristics and pavement types. The erosion and slide of the landward slope due to the combined effect of normal hit and great shear from overtopping flows was identified the major trigger of the destabilization of sea dikes. Once the intermittent hydrodynamic load and swash caused any deformation (bump or dent) of the pavement layer, pavement fractions (slabs or rubble) on the slope started to be initiated and removed by the water. The erosion of the landward slope was then gradually aggravated followed by entire failure within a couple of minutes. Hence, the competent velocity would be helpful evaluate the failure risk if as well accounted in standards or criteria. However, the dike top was measured experiencing the largest hydrodynamic pressure with a certain cap while the force on the wall increased rapidly as the overtopping intensity approached the dike-failure threshold. The faster increase of the force on the wall than on the landward slope yielded the sequencing of loads reaching hypothetic limits before failure as: dike top – top-mounted wall – landward slope. Therefore, beside the slide failure, the fatigue damage due to the instantaneous hydrodynamic impact might be another mechanism of the dike failure, which did not appear in the experiment but should be kept in mind. Instead of the widely adopted tolerable overtopping rate, a 0.117–0.424 m³/(m s) range of overtopping discharge and a 10 m/s overtopping velocity for the failure risk of typical sea dikes along China's coastlines were suggested, which enables the possible failure risk prediction through empirical calculations. The failure overtopping rate was identified strongly dependent on the pavement material, the landward slope and the dike-mounted wall but showed little variation with the width of the dike top. The flat concrete pavement and gentle landward slopes are suggested for the dike design and construction. For given configurations and hydrodynamic conditions in the experiment, the dike without the wall experienced less overtopping volume than those with the 1-m top-mounted wall. Meanwhile, the remove of the wall increased the failure overtopping rate, which means a certain increase of the failure criterion. Thus, care must be taken to conclude that the dike-mounted wall seems not an entirely appropriate reinforcement for the stability and safety of coastal protections. This should be further checked and discussed by researchers and engineers in the future.     

Controls on the development of valleys,canyons, and unconfined channel–levee complexes on the Pleistocene Slope of East Kalimantan,Indonesia

Shallow 3D seismic data show contrasting depositional patterns in Pleistocene deepwater slopes of offshore East Kalimantan, Indonesia. The northern East Kalimantan slope is dominated by valleys and canyons, while the central slope is dominated by unconfined channel–levee complexes. The Mahakam delta is immediately landward of the central slope and provided large amounts of sediments to the central slope during Pleistocene lowstands of sea level. In the central area, the upper slope contains relatively straight and deep channels. Sinuous channel–levee complexes occur on the middle and lower slope, where channels migrated laterally, then aggraded and avulsed. Younger channel–levee complexes avoided bathymetric highs created by previous channel–levee complexes. Levees decrease in thickness down slope. Relief between channels and levees also decreases down slope.North of the Mahakam delta, siliciclastic sediment supply was limited during the Pleistocene, and the slope is dominated by valleys and canyons. Late Pleistocene rivers and deltas were generally not present on the northern outer shelf. Only one lowstand delta was present on the northern shelf margin during the upper Pleistocene, and sediments from that lowstand delta filled a pre-existing slope valley complex and formed a basin-floor fan. Except for that basin-floor fan, the northern basin floor shows no evidence of sand-rich channels or fans, but contains broad areas with chaotic reflectors interpreted as mass transport complexes. This suggests that slope valleys and canyons formed by slope failures, not by erosion associated with turbidite sands from rivers or deltas. In summary, amount of sediment coming onto the slope determines slope morphology. Large, relatively steady input of sediment from the Pleistocene paleo-Mahakam delta apparently prevented large valleys and canyons from developing on the central slope. In contrast, deep valleys and canyons developed on the northern slope that was relatively “starved” for siliciclastic sediment.