Simulation of wave breaking effects in two-dimensional elliptic harbor wave models

A technique is developed for including the effects of dissipation due to wave breaking in two-dimensional elliptic models based on the mild-slope wave equation. This involves exploration of convergence properties pertaining to iteration due to presence of the nonlinear wave breaking parameter in the governing equations as well as new boundary conditions that include wave-breaking effects. Five wave-breaking formulations are examined in conjunction with the resulting model, which is applied to tests involving a sloping beach, a bar-trough bottom configuration, shore-connected and shore-parallel breakwaters on a sloping beach, and two real-world cases. Model results show that three of the formulations, when used within the context of the modeling scheme presented here, provide excellent results compared to data.     

Improved coastal boundary condition for surface water waves

Surface water waves in coastal waters are commonly modeled using the mild slope equation. One of the parameters in the coastal boundary condition for this equation is the direction at which waves approach a coast. Three published methods of estimating this direction are examined, and it is demonstrated that the wave fields obtained using these estimates deviate significantly from the corresponding analytic solution. A new method of estimating the direction of approaching waves is presented and it is shown that this method correctly reproduces the analytic solution. The ability of these methods to simulate waves in a rectangular harbor is examined.     

On the role of shoreline boundary conditions in wave overtopping modelling with non-linear shallow water equations

The note extends and completes the analysis carried out by Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.] on the performance of a state of the art Non-Linear Shallow Water Equations solver in common coastal engineering applications. The case of bore-generated overtopping of a truncated plane beach is considered and the performance of the model is assessed by comparing with the Peregrine and Williams [Peregrine, D., Williams, S.M., 2001. Swash overtopping a truncated beach. J. Fluid Mech. 440, 391–399.] analytical solution. In particular the influence of shoreline boundary conditions is investigated by considering the two best performing approaches discussed in Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]. Different distances of the edge of the beach from the bore collapse point are tested. For larger distances, the accuracy of the overtopping modelling decreases, as a consequence of the error in modelling the tip of the swash lens and, consequently, the run-up. A sensitivity analysis using the numerical resolution is carried out. This reveals that the approach in which cells shallower than a prescribed threshold are drained and wave propagation speeds for wet/dry Riemann problem are used at the interface between a wet and a dry cell (referred as Option 2ea in [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]) performs consistently better than the other.     

Improved parabolic water wave transformation model

An improved parabolic water wave transformation model is developed based on generalized [1/1] Padé approximation. For forward scattered waves, the parabolic equation is solved using a marching scheme. The values of wave angles are calculated after the solution of each line; so that better [1/1] generalized Padé approximation is performed. The nonlinear effects are included using a modified dispersion equation. The model is easy to use and performs very well for complex bathymetry. The model is tested for cases of wave angles up to 70°. The numerical results show that for large wave angles, the new parabolic model is better than all the existing parabolic models based on rational approximation.     

Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models

An improved formulation to describe breaking wave energy dissipation is presented and incorporated into a previous parametric cross-shore wave transformation model [Baldock, T.E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S., Van Weert, P., 1998. Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coastal Engineering 34, 173–196]. The new formulation accounts for a term in the bore dissipation equation neglected in some previous modelling, but which is shown to be important in the inner surf zone. The only free model parameter remains the choice of γ, the ratio of wave height to water depth at initial breaking, and a well-established standard parameter is used for all model runs. The proposed model is compared to three sets of experimental data and a previous version of the model which was extensively calibrated against field and laboratory data. The model is also compared to the widely used model presented by Thornton and Guza (1983) [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research 88 (No.C10), 5925–5938].     

四叉树网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型研究

波浪是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。考虑到近岸地形复杂、波浪演化显著的特点,建立了四叉树网格体系下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型,采用有限体积法对模型进行数值离散,应用GPBiCG(m, n)算法求解离散后的控制方程。模型中根据波浪波长布局计算网格,生成多层次四叉树网格,对复杂计算域有较好的适应性,并且在离散和方程求解中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,节约了存储空间和计算时间。将模型成功应用于物理模型实验及Acapulco海湾的波浪场数值模拟,结果表明该模型能够准确、高效地模拟近岸波浪场,可为近岸波浪场的模拟提供一定的理论和技术支持。     

The applicability of the shallow water equations for modelling violent wave overtopping

The shallow water equations (SWE) have been used to model a series of experiments examining violent wave overtopping of a near-vertical sloping structure with impacting wave conditions. A finite volume scheme was used to solve the shallow water equations. A monotonic reconstruction method was applied to eliminate spurious oscillations and ensure proper treatment of bed slope terms. Both the numerical results and physical observations of the water surface closely followed the relevant Rayleigh probability distributions. However, the numerical model overestimated the wave heights and suffered from the lack of dispersion within the shallow water equations. Comparisons made on dimensionless parameters for the overtopping discharge and percentage of waves overtopping between the numerical model and the experimental observations indicated that for the lesser impacting waves, the shallow water equations perform satisfactorily and provide a good alternative to computationally more expensive methods.     

The role of offshore boundary conditions in the uncertainty of numerical prediction of wave overtopping using non-linear shallow water equations

The paper examines the variability of wave overtopping parameters predicted by numerical models based on non-linear shallow water equations, due to the boundary conditions obtained from wave energy density spectra. Free surface elevation time series at the boundary are generated using the principle of linear superposition of the spectral components. The components' phases are assumed to be random, making it possible to generate an infinite number of offshore boundary conditions from only one spectrum.A reference case was provided by carrying out overtopping tests on a simple concrete structure in a wave flume. Numerical tests using the measured free surface elevation at the toe of the structure were carried out. Three parameters were analysed throughout the paper: the overtopping discharge, the probability of overtopping and the maximum overtopping volume. These showed very good agreement between the numerical solver prediction and the overtopping measurements. Subsequently, the measured spectra at the toe were used to generate a population of reconstructed offshore boundary time series for each test, following a Monte Carlo approach. A sensitivity analysis determined that 500 tests were suitable to perform a statistical analysis on the predicted overtopping parameters. Results of these tests show that the variability in the predicted parameters is higher for the smaller number of overtopping waves in the modelled range and decreases significantly as overtopping becomes more frequent. The characteristics of the distributions of the predictions have been studied. The average value of the three parameters has been compared with the measurements. Although the accuracy is lower than that achieved by the model when the measured time series are used at the boundary, the prediction is still fairly accurate above all for the highest overtopping discharges. The distribution of the modelled probability of overtopping was found to follow a normal distribution, while the maximum value follows a GEV one. The overtopping discharge shows a more complex behaviour, values in the middle of the tested range follow a Weibull distribution, while a normal distribution describes the top end of the range better.Results indicate that when the probability of overtopping is smaller than 5%, a sensitivity analysis on the seeding of the offshore boundary conditions is recommended.     

The BCI criterion for the initiation of breaking process in Boussinesq-type equations wave models

The Breaking Celerity Index (BCI) is proposed as a new wave breaking criterion for Boussinesq-type equations wave propagation models (BTE).The BCI effectiveness in determining the breaking initiation location has been verified against data from different experimental investigations conducted with incident regular and irregular waves propagating along uniform slope [Utku, M. (1999). “The Relative Trough Froude Number. A New Criteria for Wave Breaking”. Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. of Civil and Enviromental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA; Gonsalves Veloso dos Reis, M.T.L. (1992). “Characteristics of waves in the surf zone”. MS Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool., Liverpool; Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2006). “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: experimental and numerical analysis”. Journal of Geophysical Research, VOL 111, C11019] and barred beaches [Tomasicchio, G.R., and Sancho, F. (2002). “On wave induced undertow at a barred beach”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 557–569]. The considered experiments were carried out in small-scale and large-scale facilities. In addition, one set of data has been obtained by the use of the COBRAS model based upon the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations [Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., and Sakakiyama, T. (2000). “A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions”. Proceedings of Coastal Structures ‘99, Balkema, Rotterdam, 169–174; Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). “Numerical simulation based on a RANS model of wave groups on an impermeable slope”. Proceedings of Fifth International Symposium WAVES 2005, Madrid].Numerical simulations have been performed with the 1D-FUNWAVE model [Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B., and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). “FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model Documentation and User's Manual”. Research Report No CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark]. With regard to the adopted experimental conditions, the breaking location has been calculated for different trigger mechanisms [Zelt, J.A. (1991). “The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves”. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205–246; Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T., and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and run-up. I: 1D”. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39–47; Utku, M., and Basco, D.R. (2002). “A new criteria for wave breaking based on the Relative Trough Froude Number”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 258–268] including the proposed BCI.The calculations have shown that BCI gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other trigger criteria, both for spilling and plunging breaking events, with a not negligible reduction of the calculation time.     

适于模拟不规则水域波浪的缓坡方程两种数值模型比较

本文分析比较了适于不规则水域波浪模拟的椭圆型缓坡方程两种数值模型。两种数值模型均采用有限体积法离散,分别基于四叉树网格和非结构化三角形网格建立。首先结合近岸缓坡地形上波浪传播的经典物理模型实验对两种数值模型分别进行了验证,并结合计算结果对比分析了两种模型的计算精度和效率。计算结果表明,两种数值模型均可有效地模拟近岸波浪的传播变形;相对非结构化三角形网格下的模型,基于四叉树网格建立的数值模型在数值离散和求解过程中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,离散简单,易于程序实现,且节约计算存储空间,计算效率高。     

Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves

When applying numerical methods to study short-wave propagation in the horizontal plane (refraction and/or diffraction problems) it is important to know which method can best be used with respect to accuracy, computer costs and practical flexibility.In this paper three models, indicated as the refraction model, the parabolic refraction-diffraction model and the full refraction-diffraction model, are briefly described, together with a comparison of the computational results of these models with measurements in a hydraulic scale model. Conclusions with respect to the practical use of the models are also given.     

High order Hamiltonian water wave models with wave-breaking mechanism

Based on the Hamiltonian formulation of water waves, using Hamiltonian consistent modelling methods, we derive higher order Hamiltonian equations by Taylor expansions of the potential and the vertical velocity around the still water level. The polynomial expansion in wave height is mixed with pseudo-differential operators that preserve the exact dispersion relation. The consistent approximate equations have inherited the Hamiltonian structure and give exact conservation of the approximate energy. In order to deal with breaking waves, we extend the eddy-viscosity model of Kennedy et al. (2000) to be applicable for fully dispersive equations. As breaking trigger mechanism we use a kinematic criterion based on the quotient of horizontal fluid velocity at the crest and the crest speed. The performance is illustrated by comparing simulations with experimental data for an irregular breaking wave with a peak period of 12 s above deep water and for a bathymetry induced periodic wave plunging breaker over a trapezoidal bar. The comparisons show that the higher order models perform quite well; the extension with the breaking wave mechanism improves the simulations significantly.     

Improved numerical solution of Dobrovol'skaya's boundary integral equations on similarity flow for uniform symmetrical entry of wedges

Dobrovol'skaya [1] presented a similarity solution for the water entry of symmetrical wedges with constant velocity. The solution involves an integral equation that becomes increasingly harder to numerically solve as the deadrise angle decreases. Zhao and Faltinsen [2] were able to present reliable results for deadrise angles down to 4°. In this paper, Zhao and Faltinsen's results are improved and reliable results for deadrise angles down to 1° are confirmed by comparing to the asymptotic solutions at small deadrise angles and the solutions by the traditional boundary element method at relatively large deadrise angles. The present similarity solution results provide a reference solution in theoretical studies of water entry problems and in developing accurate numerical solvers for simulating strongly nonlinear wave–body interactions, which flows are governed by Laplace equation or Euler equation.     

Full-range equation for wave boundary layer thickness

Full-range equation covering all the flow regimes in a wave boundary layer is proposed for the boundary layer thickness. The results are compared with the available experimental data and good agreement has been found. In case of wave boundary layers, there are three definitions of boundary layer thickness in use. Therefore, the full-range equation is derived for three of the definitions. The findings of this study may be useful in calculating suspended sediment transport in coastal environments and studying wave–current combined motion.     

Moving shoreline boundary condition for nearshore models

The paper develops and analyzes two fully nonlinear boundary conditions that incorporate the motion of the shoreline in nonlinear time domain nearshore models. A moving shoreline essentially means the computational domain is changing with the solution of the flow. The problem is solved in two steps. The first is to establish an equation that determines the motion of the shoreline based on the local momentum balance. The second is to develop and implement into a shoreline model the capability of accommodating a changing computational domain. The two models represent two different ways of addressing this step: one is to track the position of the shoreline in a fixed grid by establishing a special shoreline point which generally is not a fixed grid point. The second is by a coordinate transformation that maps the changing domain onto a fixed domain and solves the basic equations in the mapped domain. The two shoreline conditions are tested against three known solution for nonlinear shoreline motion. Two are the 1-D solutions to the nonlinear shallow water (NSW) equations by Carrier and Greenspan [J. Fluid Mech. 4 (1958) 97], one representing the response to a transient change in the offshore water level, the other the motion due to a periodic standing wave, both on slopes steep enough to allow full reflection. The third is the 2-D horizontal (2DH) computational solution by Zelt [Coast. Eng. 15 (1991) 205] for the run-up of a solitary wave on a cusped beach. In all cases, both models are shown to behave well and give high accuracy results for suitably chosen grid and time spacings.     

任意曲线边界条件下缓变水深水域波浪传播的数值模拟

缓坡方程被广泛地应用于描述波浪的传播变形计算,目前一般采用矩形网格求解.将计算域剖分为任意四边形网格,以格林公式为基础,在变量沿单元边界线性变化的假定下,对双曲型的波能守恒方程、波数矢无旋性方程进行离散,同时通过等参单元变换推求节点偏导数值以离散椭圆型光程函数方程,从而建立了任意曲线边界条件下缓变水深水域波浪传播的数值模拟模型.将模型应用于平行直线型等深线地形,并将计算域剖分为不规则四边形网格,对不同入射角、底坡、波高等多种组合情况比较了数值解与解析解,结果表明两者一致.应用于复杂边界的实例,数值模拟结果与物模实验值基本吻合.     

Numerical simulation of wave overtopping of coastal structures using the non-linear shallow water equations

A one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented. The model (AMAZON) is based on solving the non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations. A modern upwind scheme of the Godunov-type using an HLL approximate Riemann solver is described which captures bore waves in both transcritical and supercritical flows. By employing a finite volume formulation, the method can be implemented on an irregular, structured, boundary-fitted computational mesh. The use of the NLSW equations to model wave overtopping is computationally efficient and practically flexible, though the detailed structure of wave breaking is of course ignored. It is shown that wave overtopping at a vertical wall may also be approximately modelled by representing the wall as a steep bed slope. The AMAZON model solutions have been compared with analytical solutions and laboratory data for wave overtopping at sloping and vertical seawalls and good agreement has been found. The model requires more verification tests for irregular waves before its application as a generic design tool.     

A 3-D model based on Navier–Stokes equations for regular and irregular water wave propagation

A spatial fixed σ-coordinate is used to transform the Navier–Stokes equations from the sea bed to the still water level. In the fixed σ-coordinate system only a very small number of vertical grid points are required for the numerical model. The time step for using the spatial fixed σ-coordinate is efficiently larger than that of using a time dependent σ-coordinate, as there is substantial truncation error involved in the time dependent σ-coordinate transformation. There is no need to carry out the σ-coordinate transformation at each time step, which can reduce computational times. It is important that wave breaking can be potentially modeled in the fixed σ-coordinate system, but in a time-dependent σ-coordinate system the wave breaking cannot be modeled. A projection method is used to separate advection and diffusion terms from the pressure terms in Navier–Stokes equations. The pressure variable is further separated into hydrostatic and hydrodynamic pressures so that the computer rounding errors can be largely avoided. In order to reduce computational time of solving the hydrodynamic pressure equation, at every time step the initial pressure is extrapolated in time domain using computed pressures from previous time steps, and then corrected in spatial domain using a multigrid method. For each time step, only a few of iterations (typically six iterations) are required for solving the pressure equation. The model is tested against available experimental data for regular and irregular waves and good agreement between calculation results and the measured data has been achieved.