On the role of shoreline boundary conditions in wave overtopping modelling with non-linear shallow water equations

The note extends and completes the analysis carried out by Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.] on the performance of a state of the art Non-Linear Shallow Water Equations solver in common coastal engineering applications. The case of bore-generated overtopping of a truncated plane beach is considered and the performance of the model is assessed by comparing with the Peregrine and Williams [Peregrine, D., Williams, S.M., 2001. Swash overtopping a truncated beach. J. Fluid Mech. 440, 391–399.] analytical solution. In particular the influence of shoreline boundary conditions is investigated by considering the two best performing approaches discussed in Briganti and Dodd [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]. Different distances of the edge of the beach from the bore collapse point are tested. For larger distances, the accuracy of the overtopping modelling decreases, as a consequence of the error in modelling the tip of the swash lens and, consequently, the run-up. A sensitivity analysis using the numerical resolution is carried out. This reveals that the approach in which cells shallower than a prescribed threshold are drained and wave propagation speeds for wet/dry Riemann problem are used at the interface between a wet and a dry cell (referred as Option 2ea in [Briganti, R., Dodd, N., 2009. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 56(5–6) (doi:101016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.008), 495–505.]) performs consistently better than the other.     

Numerical simulation of wave overtopping of coastal structures using the non-linear shallow water equations

A one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented. The model (AMAZON) is based on solving the non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations. A modern upwind scheme of the Godunov-type using an HLL approximate Riemann solver is described which captures bore waves in both transcritical and supercritical flows. By employing a finite volume formulation, the method can be implemented on an irregular, structured, boundary-fitted computational mesh. The use of the NLSW equations to model wave overtopping is computationally efficient and practically flexible, though the detailed structure of wave breaking is of course ignored. It is shown that wave overtopping at a vertical wall may also be approximately modelled by representing the wall as a steep bed slope. The AMAZON model solutions have been compared with analytical solutions and laboratory data for wave overtopping at sloping and vertical seawalls and good agreement has been found. The model requires more verification tests for irregular waves before its application as a generic design tool.     

The role of offshore boundary conditions in the uncertainty of numerical prediction of wave overtopping using non-linear shallow water equations

The paper examines the variability of wave overtopping parameters predicted by numerical models based on non-linear shallow water equations, due to the boundary conditions obtained from wave energy density spectra. Free surface elevation time series at the boundary are generated using the principle of linear superposition of the spectral components. The components' phases are assumed to be random, making it possible to generate an infinite number of offshore boundary conditions from only one spectrum.A reference case was provided by carrying out overtopping tests on a simple concrete structure in a wave flume. Numerical tests using the measured free surface elevation at the toe of the structure were carried out. Three parameters were analysed throughout the paper: the overtopping discharge, the probability of overtopping and the maximum overtopping volume. These showed very good agreement between the numerical solver prediction and the overtopping measurements. Subsequently, the measured spectra at the toe were used to generate a population of reconstructed offshore boundary time series for each test, following a Monte Carlo approach. A sensitivity analysis determined that 500 tests were suitable to perform a statistical analysis on the predicted overtopping parameters. Results of these tests show that the variability in the predicted parameters is higher for the smaller number of overtopping waves in the modelled range and decreases significantly as overtopping becomes more frequent. The characteristics of the distributions of the predictions have been studied. The average value of the three parameters has been compared with the measurements. Although the accuracy is lower than that achieved by the model when the measured time series are used at the boundary, the prediction is still fairly accurate above all for the highest overtopping discharges. The distribution of the modelled probability of overtopping was found to follow a normal distribution, while the maximum value follows a GEV one. The overtopping discharge shows a more complex behaviour, values in the middle of the tested range follow a Weibull distribution, while a normal distribution describes the top end of the range better.Results indicate that when the probability of overtopping is smaller than 5%, a sensitivity analysis on the seeding of the offshore boundary conditions is recommended.     

Neural network modelling of wave overtopping at coastal structures

A method has been developed to estimate wave overtopping discharges for a wide range of coastal structures. The prediction method is based on Neural Network modelling. For this purpose use is made of a data set obtained from a large number of physical model tests (collected within the framework of the European project CLASH, see e.g. [Steendam, G.J., Van der Meer, J.W., Verhaeghe, H., Besley, P., Franco, L. and Van Gent, M.R.A. (2004). The international database on wave overtopping. World Scientific, Proc. 29th ICCE, vol. 4, pp. 4301–4313, Lisbon, Portugal.]). Moreover, a method was developed to obtain confidence intervals for the overtopping predictions of the neural network.     

Spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures

Spatial distribution of random wave overtopping water behind coastal structures was investigated using a numerical model based on Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver (RANS) and Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme (RANS-VOF). The computed spatial distributions of wave overtopping water behind the structure agree well with the measurements by Pullen et al (2008) for a vertical wall and Lykke Andersen and Burcharth (2006) for a 1:2 sea dike. A semi-analytical model was derived to relate spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures to landward ground level, velocity and layer thickness on the crest. This semi-analytical model agrees reasonably well with both numerical model results and measurements close to coastal structures. Our numerical model results suggest that the proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with a seaward slope when it is less than 1:3 and decreases with a seaward slope when it gets steeper. The proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with landward ground level and overtopping discharge. It also increases with the product of incident wave height and wavelength, but decreases with increasing relative structure freeboard and crest width. We also found that the extent of hazard area due to wave overtopping is significantly reduced by using a permeable structure crown. Findings in this study will enable engineers to establish the extent of hazard zones due to wave overtopping behind coastal structures.     

The new wave overtopping database for coastal structures

Significant effort has been made to generate a homogeneous database on wave overtopping consisting of more than 10,000 irregular wave overtopping tests from more than 160 independent projects or test series, each described by means of 31 parameters. Many coastal structures, including dikes, rubble mound breakwaters, berm breakwaters, caisson structures and combinations have been considered and have been schematised for inclusion in the database. All these overtopping tests are represented by over 300,000 numbers in the database.     

High-resolution central difference scheme for the shallow water equations

1 IntroductionThe shallow water equations (SWE) are frequent-ly used as a mathematical model for water flows incoastal areas, lakes, estuaries, etc. Thus, they are animportant tool to simulate a variety of problems relat-ed to coastal engineering, environment, ecology, etc.(Bermúdez et al., 1998). On the basis of solving theone-dimensional (1D) SWE, Hu et al. (2000) have de-veloped a model capable of simulating storm wavespropagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping asea wall. Ano…     

Numerical study of vegetation damping effects on solitary wave run-up using the nonlinear shallow water equations

Vegetation damping effects on propagating water waves have been investigated by many researchers. This paper investigates the effects of damping due to vegetation on solitary water wave run-up via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison's formulation for vegetation induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical model is solved via a finite volume method on a Cartesian cut cell mesh. The accuracy of the numerical scheme and the effects of the vegetation terms in the present model are validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to simulate a solitary wave propagating on a plane slope with vegetation. The sensitivity of solitary wave run-up to plant height, diameter and stem density is investigated by comparison of the numerical results for different patterns of vegetation. The numerical results show that vegetation can effectively reduce solitary wave propagation velocity and that solitary wave run-up is decreased with increase of plant height in water and also diameter and stem density.     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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The dynamics of wave induced ship motions in shallow water

The analytical method developed by Svendsen (1968) for a forced heave motion is extended to the general problem of wave induced heave, roll and sway motions of a long ship at a depth of water which is only slightly larger than the draught of the ship. This corresponds, for example, to the situation of a fully loaded ship in a harbour area.After linearization of the problem, the water motion is considered for each of the three individual motions and for the wave reflection-transmission problem for a fixed ship. The ensuing results for the forces on the ship are then synthesized to form the equations of motion, which are presented with all coefficients given, including mooring forces.Analytical and numerical results are given for the three components of motion, for the associated resonance frequencies, and for the hydrodynamic masses and moments of inertia. Finally, the assumptions used are analyzed and evaluated by comparison with measurements and with other results for a special case.     

Measurement of shallow water wave direction for longshore sediment transport

Formulae which predict the longshore transport of sand under the action of oblique waves are shown to be very sensitive to the angle of incidence of the waves. A simple, computerized wave recorder and pattern-matching technique is described which measures the angle of incidence by determining the phase difference between signals from a pair of closely spaced sensors. Data from field trials suggest that a resolution of better than 4° is possible with this system, but problems of mixed frequency waves remain in both the longshore transport functions and the field equipment.     

Refined seaward boundary conditions for modelling shallow water waves in semi-enclosed water bodies

Based on the theory of characteristics, this research elaborates on the numerical treatment of two types of seaward boundary conditions for modelling long-wave dynamics in truncated estuarine and coastal domains. These seaward boundary conditions are devised for the solution of the fully non-linear shallow water equations in the time domain. The first type is the clamped boundary, at which the water level variation is given and the velocity is computed along the characteristic line going out of the domain. The second type is the non-reflecting boundary, where the incident wave information is introduced and the reflected waves from inside the computational domain are allowed to escape at the same time. The essence of its numerical implementation is to distinguish the inward and outward characteristics and to disconnect the incoming characteristic relation from the actual flow inside the domain. Compared with previous techniques, the present method includes extra terms in the derivation to account for the effects of the uneven bed, bottom friction and shape of the characteristic lines. A shock-capturing finite difference method is used to solve the shallow water equations in the deviatoric format, but the seaward boundary algorithms constructed herein are generic and applicable to other solvers. The necessity of these refinements is highlighted by simulating the tidal oscillation in the Persian/Arabian Gulf, periodic wave runup on the coastline and the wave resonance in a narrow harbour. It is found that neglecting the bed slope at the boundary may result in biased mean water levels in the prediction.     

Improved boundary equations for elliptic water wave models

Approximate equations for the elliptic mild slope equation are derived based on Padé approximation and used as absorbing boundaries. The new boundary equations can absorb the incident waves for high range of wave incidence angle. In addition, the new boundary equations can be used iteratively to refine the solution by eliminating reflections from the boundaries. An iterative conjugate gradient scheme has been used to solve the elliptic water wave equation and the new boundary equations. The model developed can accommodate for wave diffraction, refraction and reflections from structures with wide range of wave angles at the boundaries. The new model has been tested for several cases. The model compares very well with other models.     

Estimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water

This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra.     

Design of an integrated shallow water wave experiment

The experimental design and instrumentation for an integrated shallow-water surface gravity wave experiment is discussed. The experiment required the measurement of the water surface elevation, meteorological parameters, and directional spectra at a number of locations on a shallow lake. In addition, to acquire data under a wide range of conditions, an experimental period of three years was required. A system of telephone and radio modem links were installed to enable real-time monitoring of instrument performance at eight separate measurement locations on the lake. This system also enabled logging sessions to be optimized to ensure the maximum possible data return from this extended experiment     

Euler–Lagrange equations for the spectral element shallow water system

We present the derivation of the discrete Euler–Lagrange equations for an inverse spectral element ocean model based on the shallow water equations. We show that the discrete Euler–Lagrange equations can be obtained from the continuous Euler–Lagrange equations by using a correct combination of the weak and the strong forms of derivatives in the Galerkin integrals, and by changing the order with which elemental assembly and mass averaging are applied in the forward and in the adjoint systems. Our derivation can be extended to obtain an adjoint for any Galerkin finite element and spectral element system.We begin the derivations using a linear wave equation in one dimension. We then apply our technique to a two-dimensional shallow water ocean model and test it on a classic double-gyre problem. The spectral element forward and adjoint ocean models can be used in a variety of inverse applications, ranging from traditional data assimilation and parameter estimation, to the less traditional model sensitivity and stability analyses, and ensemble prediction. Here the Euler–Lagrange equations are solved by an indirect representer algorithm.     

浅水波长计算问题

浅水波周期保持常值,而波长缩减时其计算需进行迭代。提出了两个精度较高的经验公式供计算应用。水深波长比差值ΔLD0的变化规律反映出浅水波长缩减为一复杂过程,并与波能密度加大相关。LD0≤0.14时,特别是LD0=0.056前后,其特征会更加显著,由此可探讨波长变化的内在机理。     

解浅水方程的集中质量有限元方法

本文给出三角形单元集中质量有限元解浅水波方程的方法以及该方法在IBM-PC微机上的应用实例并取得较好结果。     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

Prototype measurements and small-scale model tests of wave overtopping at shallow rubble-mound breakwaters: the Ostia-Rome yacht harbour case

The paper presents the comparison between the results of small-scale model tests and prototype measurements of wave overtopping at a rubble-mound breakwater. The specific structure investigated is the west breakwater of the yacht harbour of Rome at Ostia (Italy) and is characterized by a gentle seaward slope (1/4) and by a long, shallow foreshore. The laboratory tests firstly aimed at carefully reproducing two measured storms in which overtopping occurred and was measured. The tests have been carried out in two independent laboratories, in a wave flume and in a wave basin, hence using a two-dimensional (2-D) and a three-dimensional (3-D) setup. In the 2-D laboratory tests no overtopping occurred during the storm reproductions; in the 3-D case discharges five to ten times smaller than those observed in prototype have been measured. This indicates the existence of model and scale effects. These effects have been discussed on the basis of the results of several parametric tests, which have been carried out in both laboratories, in addition to the storm reproductions, varying wave and water level characteristics. Final comparison of all the performed tests with 86 prototype measurements still suggests the existence of scale and model effects that induce strong underestimation of overtopping discharge at small scale. The scale reproduction of wave breaking on the foreshore, together with the 3-D features of the prototype conditions and the absence of wind stress in the laboratory measurements, have been individuated as the main sources of scale and model effects. The paper also provides a comparison between the data and a largely used formula for wave overtopping discharges in the presence of structures similar to the one at hand. The suitable value of a roughness factor that appears in that formula is investigated and good agreement is found with other recent researches on rubble-mound breakwaters.