Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.     

Detection of breaking waves using X-band pulse radar in the nearshore region

An X-band pulsed Doppler microwave radar has been used to determine the characteristics of breaking waves. Field experiments were conducted at the Shuang-Si estuary in the north of Taiwan in the winter of 2005. Analyses on maxima radar cross section and Doppler frequency shift are done to characterize wave breaking zones. Based on observations of breaking waves, the wave breaking zones are shown to be located at water depths of 1.8 to 2.2 m in the experimental site. In general, the results indicate that a radar system has the potential to delineate the spatial variation of breaking waves clearly and that this is sufficient to achieve a measurement operation for near-shore air-sea interaction events.     

Laboratory research on effective test area of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers

The size and shape of the effective test area are crucial to consider when short-crested waves are created by segmented wavemakers. The range of the effective test area of short-crested waves simulated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is analyzed in this paper. The experimental investigation on the wave field distribution of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is conducted by using an array of wave gauges. Wave spectra and directional spreading function are analyzed and the results show that when the main direction is at a certain angle with the normal line of wave generators, the wave field of 3D short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers has good spatial uniformity within the model test area. The effective test area can provide good wave environments for seakeeping model tests of various ocean engineering structures in the deep ocean engineering basin.     

Shear Flow Dispersion Under Wave and Current

The longitudinal dispersion of solute in open channel flow with short period progressive waves is investigated. The waves induce second order drift velocity in the direction of propagation and enhance the mixing process in concurrent direction. The 1-D wave-period-averaged dispersion equation is derived and an expression for the wave-current induced longitudinal dispersion coefficient (WCLDC) is proposed based on Fischer's expression (1979) for dispersion in unidirectional flow. The result shows that the effect of waves on dispersion is mainly due to the cross-sectional variation of the drift velocity. Furthermore, to obtain a more practical expression of the WCLDC, the longitudinal dispersion coefficient due to Seo and Cheong (1998) is modified to incluee the effect of drift velocity. Laboratory experiments have been conducted to verify the proposed expression. The experimental results, together with dimensional analysis, show that the wave effect can be reflected by the ratio between the wave amplitude and wave period. A comparative study between the cases with and without waves demonstrates that the magnitude of the longitudinal dispersion coefficient is increased under the presence of waves.     

Rainfall effect on wind waves and the turbulence beneath air-sea interface

Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.     

Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Double Jetty

The coefficient of deffraction of regular waves behind the double jetty has been computed in this paper at first by using the singularity distribution method. The model tests conducted for diffraction of irregular waves with a unidirectional frequency spectrum have confirmed good agreement between the data measured in experiments and the results computed by the singularity distribution method plus the linear superposition method for the energy of component waves in the directional frequency spectra. Therefore, this technique for component waves in the directional spectra has been further used to compute diffraction of irregular waves of multidirection, including the employment of a directional distribution function of the cos2 type, as well as the Bretschneider-Misuyann frequency spectrum.     

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.     

Experimental Study on the Cyclic Behavior of Monopiles in Fine Sandy Beds Under Regular Waves

This paper presents an experimental study on the wave-induced behavior of monopiles. Laboratory experiments were conducted at the constant initial state of the sandy beds in a wave flume with a soil trench. The responses of the pile-head displacement, the pile strain and the pore water pressure on regular waves were investigated. The experimental results show that the monopiles lean along the direction of the wave progression and the inclination increases with the duration of wave actions. The pile-head displacement (consisting of the permanent displacement and cyclic displacement) increases as the wave height increases, especially more significantly for the permanent displacement. The head-fixed pile suffers from larger wave load than that on the head-free pile under the same wave condition. Increasing pile diameter or fixing fins on the monopile is effective in reducing the pore water pressure in the upper part of the bed and the permanent displacement.     

吕宋海峡内波吸引子的三维数值模拟

Internal waves propagate along wave beams that are inclined with respect to the horizontal plane. It is conjectured that the internal waves generated in the Luzon Strait may be confined between the double ridges in the strait and concentrate to a closed trajectory, the so-called internal wave attractor, due to the reflection of wave beams from the lateral boundaries, sea surface and bottom. This work carried out two experiments using a three dimensional non-hydrostatic general circulation model, MITgcm, to investigate the possibility that the ridges in the Luzon Strait allows for internal wave attractors. Baroclinic current in both of the experiments demonstrate the forming of ring-like patterns in some section around 20° and 21°N, indicating that the development of the internal wave attractors are allowed in the Luzon Strait. The different resolutions and initial conditions in the two experiments also reveal that the internal-wave-attractor phenomenon is robust in this region.     

Theoretical and Experimental Study on the Acoustic Wave Energy After the Nonlinear Interaction of Acoustic Waves in Aqueous Media

Based on the Burgers equation and Manley?Rowe equation, the derivation about nonlinear interaction of the acoustic waves has been done in this paper. After nonlinear interaction among the low-frequency weak waves and the pump wave, the analytical solutions of acoustic waves’ amplitude in the field are deduced. The relationship between normalized energy of high-frequency and the change of acoustic energy before and after the nonlinear interaction of the acoustic waves is analyzed. The experimental results about the changes of the acoustic energy are presented. The study shows that new frequencies are generated and the energies of the low-frequency are modulated in a long term by the pump waves, which leads the energies of the low-frequency acoustic waves to change in the pulse trend in the process of the nonlinear interaction of the acoustic waves. The increase and decrease of the energies of the low-frequency are observed under certain typical conditions, which lays a foundation for practical engineering applications.     

马蹄波波形几何参数的试验研究

为了研究真实海洋表面马蹄波的波形特征,通过物理模型试验研究了马蹄波的波形特征参数。研究中通过引入满足共振条件的扰动波成功在试验室内产生了马蹄波,测量和分析了马蹄波的波面升高和水平弧形波峰的几何特征,定义了新的垂向几何参数和水平几何特征参数,给出了不同水深情况下的这些参数的结果,得出了水深对马蹄波几何形态的影响。理论分析了马蹄波的横向结果,并与试验测量结果和弧形处理结果进行了对比。结果表明,马蹄波波形受水深影响较大;水深越浅,马蹄波的波面形状越接近椭圆余弦波,横向波长也越大。     

Numerical models for evolution of extreme wave groups

The paper considers the application of two numerical models to simulate the evolution of steep breaking waves. The first one is a Lagrangian wave model based on equations of motion of an inviscid fluid in Lagrangian coordinates. A method for treating spilling breaking is introduced and includes dissipative suppression of the breaker and correction of crest shape to improve the post breaking behaviour. The model is used to create a Lagrangian numerical wave tank, to reproduce experimental results of wave group evolution. The same set of experiments is modelled using a novel VoF numerical wave tank created using OpenFOAM. Lagrangian numerical results are validated against experiments and VoF computations and good agreement is demonstrated. Differences are observed only for a small region around the breaking crest.     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

Estimation of near-field characteristics of tsunami generation by submarine landslide

Underwater landslide can trigger impulsive waves with high amplitude and run-up, which may cause substantial damage. In this work, the experimental investigations are performed to study the impulsive wave characteristics caused by underwater landslides. The effects of landslide geometry and kinematics on wave characteristics are studied by performing 84 laboratory experiments. The influences of thickness, volume and shape of failure mass on the characteristics of initial wave are discussed. The impacts of water body conditions such as the slope of sliding bed and the initial submergence of underwater landslide are also examined. The present experimental data as well as the available data in the literature are used to provide an applied method for prediction of the initial wave amplitude. The present prediction method is properly verified by several experimental, numerical and real case data.     

数值波浪水槽中完全非线性浅水波仿真特性研究

应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。     

分层海洋中运动物体生成的内波

该文提供分层海洋中运动物体生成内波的理论、数值和实验研究的背景资料的综述 ,并给出理论研究的 Green函数、正交模态模式和极点回避等方法的评述。数值研究给出数值求解Wronsky行列式的源求解方法及介绍直接差分计算含源内波方程和积分方程的方法。有关源致内波的实验研究 ,作者介绍物体在分层流水槽运动时生成内波的两个典型实验及其主要实验结果。最后评述船舶在海洋表面处生成表面波的研究方法 ,以此指导水下 Rankine卵形体生成内波的实验研究。     

Experimental study of strong reflection of regular water waves over submerged breakwaters in tandem

A series of laboratory experiments was carried out to investigate the strong reflection of regular water waves over a train of submerged breakwaters. Rectangular and trapezoidal shapes of submerged breakwaters are employed and compared for reflecting capability of incident waves. Measured reflection coefficients of regular waves over impermeable submerged breakwaters are verified by comparing with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The trapezoidal shape is recommended for a submerged breakwater in terms of reflecting capability and practical application.     

Random wave runup and overtopping a steep sea wall: Shallow-water and Boussinesq modelling with generalised breaking and wall impact algorithms validated against laboratory and field measurements

A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements.     

内孤立波过山脊地形演化实验研究

通过模型实验,研究了下沉型内孤立波通过山脊地形演化特征。实验以三角形障碍物模拟海底山脊地形,采用两种密度的分层水,对上层流体和下层流体的高度比、密度等进行了量化处理。实验研究表明:KdV理论波形可较好模拟本次实验内孤立波波形,但随着内孤立波振幅的增大,误差增加;在内孤立波与障碍物微量作用、中度作用和破波作用三种程度的相互作用中,内孤立波过障碍物具有不同的波形变化和主波能量衰减率。