热带气旋风场非对称性对表面海浪场的影响

用WAVEWATCHIII海浪模拟了5个不同风场结构的热带气旋下海浪平均要素和海浪方向谱来研究其对风场非对称性的响应。结果表明热带气旋诱发的海浪场对风场的非对称性很敏感。随着风场非对称性加强,有效波高除了左前象限增加以外在其他所有象限内都减小,且有效波高场的非对称性增强,并且非对称轴逆时针旋转,同时,有效波高最大值的位置向前移动。风场的非对称性对其他平均要素也有影响,尤其在左后象限最明显,例如平均波长,平均波向,波峰方向等。风场的非对称性对海浪谱的多峰性以及主导波的频率和传播方向都有很重要的影响。     

两种网格下的SWAN模式对黄渤海海浪模拟比较

采用NCEP再分析风场作为驱动海浪模式的强迫场,在考虑相同物理过程和分辨率基础上,SWAN海浪模式分别采用矩形网格和非结构三角网格对2000年12月黄渤海海域波浪场进行模拟,并将模拟的有效波高与海洋浮标观测数据作对比分析,结果表明,SWAN模式运用两种网格均能够取得良好的模拟结果,相对矩形网格,非结构三角网格模拟有效波...     

神经网络方法对海浪有效波高数值模拟的改进

结合东北太平洋浮标资料,使用神经网络模型对WAVEWATCHⅢ海浪模式模拟的有效波高进行训练模拟,并与增加风场作为输入项的神经网络模型作了对比分析。通过分析浮标观测资料、WAVEWATCHⅢ数值模式和神经网络模拟的海浪有效波高大小,可以看出使用神经网络结合数值模式能够较好地提高有效波高的模拟精度。     

HH 极化 Ter r aSAR-X 图像提取海浪要素的方法研究

把 SAR 海面风场反演的地球物理模型与海浪的参数化初猜谱反演模式结合起来,用于提取 Ter r aSAR-X 图像的海浪 要素信息。首先采用风场反演的经验模型得到 Ter r aSAR-X 图像的海面风场,然后将风场信息作为初始条件应用于参数化初 猜测谱模式中,从而得到海浪谱以及相关的海浪要素信息。反演结果与对应的浮标站点数据进行对比,对比结果显示：风速 的绝对误差在 1. 1 m/ s以内,风向的绝对误差在 5毅以内,有效波高的绝对误差在 0. 93 m 以内,平均周期的绝对误差在 2. 43 s 以内。因此,可以得出结论：本文使用的方法能有效的从 Ter r aSAR-X 图像中提取海浪要素的信息。     

卫星高度计波高数据同化对西北太平洋海浪数值预报的影响评估

通过数值试验验证卫星高度计波高数据同化对西北太平洋3 d海浪预报的改进效果。驱动海浪模式的强迫场采用国家海洋环境预报中心基于MM5模式预报的风场,波高数据同化使用的观测数据是Jason-1卫星高度计有效波高。用最优插值数据同化方法获得海浪有效波高的最优估计并重构相应的海浪方向谱,以此为初始场进行为期3 d的数值预报试验。与没有同化的预报进行了比较和分析,结果表明卫星高度计海浪数据同化对0~72 h预报有不同程度的明显改善,改进程度随预报时效的增加而减少。     

基于海浪谱分解与重构的资料同化试验

针对有效波高资料提出一种海浪谱分解与重构的资料同化方案:利用历史时段内的有效波高观测资料和模式计算波高场,采用最优插值方法得到分析波高场;在WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ模式的波浪能量密度谱和有效波高分析值之间引入一个变异系数矩阵,描述模式的误差,以此为状态向量构建卡尔曼滤波系统,对分解过的海浪谱进行修正和重构,得到同化后的海浪谱初始场。利用美国阿拉斯加湾北部海域的7个浮标站进行同化和72 h预报试验,对连续1个月的预报结果进行统计表明:采用该同化方案后24 h预报结果的有效波高均方根误差比未同化的结果降低了0.13 m;同化方案对预报效果的影响可持续36 h左右,随着预报时效延长,同化的效果减弱。     

南海北部一次台风浪过程的数值模拟

采用Holland 模型将2009 年6 号台风莫拉菲参数化, 并通过一个权重系数将模型风场和背景风场叠加起来, 构造了南海北部台风过境时的风场。随后通过时空插值, 将该风场以空间分辨率5′×5′、时间步长1 h 的精度输入到SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模式中, 模拟了莫拉菲台风通过时南海北部的海浪场。然后使用Jason-2 卫星波高数据对模式进行了验证, 结果表明模式结果与实测值吻合良好。利用模式结果我们分析了台风中心和海浪场的最大有效波高中心的位置关系, 以及台风风场结构和海浪场结构的关系。最后, 通过计算海浪场的能量并将其与风要素和浪要素对比, 我们研究了台风过境期间海浪场的动力机制。     

浪流耦合数值模式在苏北辐射沙洲海域的应用研究

采用三角形网格海洋模式ADCIRC-2DDI和海浪模式SWAN双向耦合模式,建立了苏北辐射沙洲海域高精度水动力模型,用以研究该海域天文潮-风暴潮-海浪相互作用。以2012年15号台风"布拉万"为例,分别采用WRF气象模型后报风场和台风模型风场进行台风期间水位和波浪场的数值模拟,与实测资料的对比结果显示模型较准确地模拟出了"布拉万"台风期间的风暴增水与海浪过程,但模拟的极值增水和二次增水时间较实测资料提前了3 h左右。对"布拉万"台风期间模拟结果的分析表明:在浅滩及浅滩前沿水域,水位和海流对海浪模拟结果具有显著影响,是否耦合计算的有效波高差异可达1 m以上;波浪对水位的影响具有空间差异,在水深大于15 m的区域,波浪引起的水位变化小于5 cm,在浅滩区域,波浪引起的水位变化在4～10 cm,是否考虑波浪耦合对漫滩区域的模拟结果影响较大,进行浅滩及浅滩前沿的水动力计算,有必要考虑浪流耦合过程。     

石岛海域海浪数值模拟及特征分析

本文基于SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模式研究了2001～2016年石岛海浪有效波高的季节和年际变化特征,评估了不同区域风场对其贡献,并探讨了其与ENSO的关系。结果表明,石岛有效波高受黄海季风系统的影响呈现显著的季节变化:12月份最大, 6月份最小, 1%大波有效波高季节变化不显著。石岛有效波高年际变化信号显著,其与风速年际变化之间的关系存在季节性差异:石岛有效波高和石岛、黄海区域平均风速不同月份的年际异常分别在7、10月份相关性较高,而石岛1%大波有效波高和石岛、黄海区域平均1%大风风速不同月份的年际异常则在8月份左右相关性最高。不同区域风场对石岛有效波高场的影响也呈现了季节性差异:夏季,黄海南部区域风场对石岛海浪的贡献较大,而石岛风场的贡献较小;冬季,石岛风场的贡献较大。ENSO(El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation)事件会对石岛有效波高的年际变化产生一定的影响,但影响比较小。本研究旨在对石岛海浪在季节和年际尺度上的变化特征以及风场等影响因素进行研究,对该海域海浪场进行了详细的认识,对了解该海域海浪有重要意义。     

基于WWATCH模式和高度计数据的几内亚湾海域海浪的数值计算

我国与非洲国家的经济往来和能源合作日益密切,研究几内亚湾及其附近海域海浪特点对此具有重要意义。将第三代海浪数值模式WWATCH模式应用于几内亚湾及其附近海域,以美国国家环境预报中心(NCEP)的再分析风场资料作为模式输入,对该海域2004年的海浪场进行了数值计算。利用计算结果分析了2004年2月和8月几内亚湾及附近海域的海浪特点,将模式计算的有效波高与Topex/Poseidon高度计观测的有效波高进行对比,结果表明,模式有效波高的大小和变化趋势与T/P高度计有效波高具有良好的一致性,其中在深海海域计算效果好于浅海海域。     

Estimation of Design Wave Height for the Waters around the Korean Peninsula

Long term wave climate of both extreme wave and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is not enough to provide reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. Basic data base of hindcasted wave parameters such as significant wave height, peak period and direction has been established continuously for the period of 25 years starting from 1979 and for major 106 typhoons for the past 53 years since 1951 for each grid point of the North East Asia Regional Seas with grid size of 18 km. Wind field reanalyzed by European Center for Midrange Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used for the simulation of waves for the extratropical storms, while wind field calculated by typhoon wind model with typhoon parameters carefully analyzed using most of the available data was used for the simulation of typhoon waves. Design wave heights for the return period of 10, 20, 30, 50 and 100 years for 16 directions at each grid point have been estimated by means of extreme wave analysis using the wave simulation data. As in conventional methodsi of design criteria estimation, it is assumed that the climate is stationary and the statistics and extreme analysis using the long-term hindcasting data are used in the statistical prediction for the future. The method of extreme statistical analysis in handling the extreme events like typhoon Maemi in 2003 was evaluated for more stable results of design wave height estimation for the return periods of 30–50 years for the cost effective construction of coastal structures.     

黄渤海海域波浪时空变化特征分析

本文利用欧洲中期预报中心(ECMWF)第五代再分析数据集(ECMWF Reanalysis v5,ERA5),对中国黄渤海海域2000—2019年的波浪进行了统计分析.得到如下的结论:1)黄渤海海区波浪具有明显的季节性,渤海区域有效波高呈现出周边小,中间大的特点;黄海海域有效波高呈现由南向北降低的趋势;研究区域冬季有效...     

Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves Cause a Force and a Torque on the Bottom

Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium.     

星载高级合成孔径雷达波模式算法及其反演数据精度验证

搭载在欧洲环境卫星(ENVISAT)上的高级合成孔径雷达(Advanced Synthetic Aperture Radar,ASAR)二级波模式数据提供了诸多海浪信息包括有效波高、波向、波长和二维海浪谱等,在海浪预报模式中具有重要作用。本文拟利用浮标观测数据对ASAR波模式算法及其反演数据精度进行对比验证。由于SAR卫星在海面的特殊成像机制,不同海况下会有不同的测量结果,通过与美国国家浮标中心(NDBC)的浮标数据对比,显示ASAR有效波高在高海况下低估和在低海况下高估的现象,在中等海况下的测量结果较优。通过研究ASAR数据集中对应的海浪谱,按照能量与方向分布可分为四种类型:单一方向海浪谱(Ⅰ类谱),180°方向模糊海浪谱(Ⅱ类谱),海浪两个方向且能量分布杂乱(Ⅲ类谱),多个传播方向且谱型杂乱海浪谱(Ⅳ类谱)。探究在不同类型下的海浪参数的精度,结果表明在单一波向正常海浪谱情况下,有效波高、波向与浮标数据一致性较好,存在180°方向模糊的对称海浪谱仅有效波高精度较高,谱型杂乱的海浪谱海浪有效波高和波向反演结果均较差。     

Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches

A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.     

短峰畸形波生成、演化过程的外部特征研究

在实际海况中,由于波浪组分方向不同,使海浪常表现为三维短峰波,与二维长峰波相比,有诸多异同特征。为了研究三维畸形波生成和演化过程中异常大波的外部特征以及大波间的关联,本文采用色散和方向聚焦方法在物理水池中模拟了短峰畸形波的整个生成和演化过程。研究结果表明,生成和演化过程中出现的异常大波沿着方向分布函数峰值方向演化,具有一定程度“对称”特征;根据异常大波的特征参数可将该过程分成3～4个典型的阶段,这意味着可以根据异常大波的特征参数判断其所处阶段及预测其演化趋势;三维畸形波生成和演化过程可能会跳过“波群”或者“深谷”阶段,与二维畸形波相比,时−空范围较小,这意味着在三维波浪场中,与畸形波相关的深谷和波群的发生概率较低。     

The long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and the wave height (wind wave, swell, mixed wave)in global ocean during the last 44 a

Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)reanalysis wave data(ERA-40),the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and(wind wave,swell,mixed wave)wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5×1.5 during the last 44 a is analyzed.It is discovered that a majority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend(2–8 cm/decade),the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height(SWH)has good consistency with that of the swell wave height.The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly concentrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies,high latitude of the North Pacific,Indian Ocean north of 30 S,the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters,and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific,Juan.Fernandez Archipelago,the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters.The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed.Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave,the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore,and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore,and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.     

开孔沉箱式结构内部波浪冲击压力试验研究

为研究在不同比尺模型下,透空式海洋结构中开孔沉箱内部受力与入射波浪的关系及差异,针对简化的上部开孔箱体海洋结构,选取两组不同尺寸模型进行了多组规则波物理模型试验。首先采用低通滤波方法分析了冲击力的不同组分,然后对比了两组模型内部所受冲击力的分布及波要素与箱体内部受力的关系。研究发现,波面对开口的淹没程度是影响冲击过程的主要因素;当模型尺寸发生变化时,开孔箱体内部所受波浪力与入射波要素的关系也发生了变化。