潮间带低速层中高速埋伏岩体计算模式的建立

在某些沿海潮间带区域的低速层中常存在一定数量的巨大高速滚石埋伏岩体。这些埋伏岩体会给工程地质勘察带来很大的困难 ,甚至无法进行工程地质勘察。根据浅层折射波方法原理利用浅层折射波相遇时距曲线与折射波射线路径关系建立了求取浅层高速埋伏岩体的埋深及其厚度的计算模式 ,利用这些公式可以较准确地确定高速埋伏岩体的位置、埋深及其厚度 ,对工程地质勘察是十分有利的。     

Travel-time curves for a simple sea floor model

This paper reviews a simple technique for interpreting the velocity structure of upper oceanic crust from travel-time data of sonobuoy and ocean bottom receiver refraction experiments. The technique does not involve sophisticated digital processing or synthetic seismogram analysis. Interpretations can be carried out with a pencil, paper and slide rule.Travel-time inversion procedures based on the -p transformation require the assumption of the shallowmost velocity. In some cases, however, such as oceanic crustal studies, the shallowmost velocity is one tf the critical parameters for which one wishes to invert. An inversion method for the shallowmost velocity is discussed which assumes a constant velocity gradient. The time, range and ray parameter of a point on the travel-time curve are sufficient to obtain the velocity at the top of the gradient zone and the gradient. The method can be used to interpolate the velocity-depth function into regions from which no seismic energy is returned as a first arrival. Once an estimate of the upper crustal velocity is obtained the traditional -p procedures can be applied.The model considered consists of a homogeneous layer over a layer in which velocity increases linearly with depth. For such a geometry there are three classes of behaviour of the travel-time curve based on the number of cusps: zero, one or two. The number of cusps depends on the uppermost velocity in the crust, the velocity gradient of the upper crust and the depth of the sources and receivers. It has not been previously recognized that two cusps in the travel time curve may be observed for this simple model. Since estimating the ray parameter from first arrival times is less ambiguous when there are no cusps, understanding the relations involved with the three classes aids in the design of experiments. It is reasonable to apply the model to shallow sea floor structure because of the high quality of marine refraction data which has recently been obtained.     

The RIDE model: an enhanced computer program for wave transformation

A wave transformation model (RIDE) was enhanced to include the process of wave breaking energy dissipation in addition to water wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, and harbor resonance. The Gaussian Elimination with partial Pivoting (GEP) method for a banded matrix equation and a newly developed bookkeeping procedure were used to solve the elliptic equation. Because the bookkeeping procedure changes the large computer memory requirements into a large hard-disk-size requirement with a minimum number of disk I/O, the simple and robust GEP method can be used in personal computers to handle realistic applications. The computing time is roughly proportional to N^1.7, where N is the number of grid points in the computing domain. Because the GEP method is capable of solving many wave conditions together (limited by having the same wave period, no bottom friction and no breaking), this model is very efficient compared to iteration methods when simulating some of the wave transformation process.     

An Extended Mild-Slope Equation

On the assumption that the vortex and the vertical velocity component of the current aresmall,a mild-slope equation for wave propagation on non-uniform flows is deduced from the basichydrodynamic equations,with the terms of (V_hh)~2 and (V_h~2)h included in the equation.The terms of bot-tom friction,wind energy input and wave nonlinearity are also introduced into the equation.The wind en-ergy input functions for wind waves and swells are separately considered by adopting Wen′s(1989)empiri-cal formula for wind waves and Snyder′s observation results for swells.Thus,an extended mild-slope equa-tion is obtained,in which the effects of refraction,diffraction,reflection,current,bottom friction,wind en-ergy input and wave nonlinearity are considered synthetically.     

Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages

Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method.     

Acoustic inversion of bottom reflectivity and bottom sound-speedprofile

This paper applies a full-field technique to invert bottom sound profile and bottom reflectivity from simulated acoustic data in a shallow water environment. Bottom sound-speed profile and bottom reflectivity have been traditionally estimated using seismic reflection/refraction techniques when acoustic ray paths and travel time can be identified and measured from the data. However, in shallow water, the many multipaths due to bottom reflection/refraction make such identification and measurement rather difficult. A full-field inversion technique is presented here that uses a broad-band source and a vertical array for bottom sound-speed and reflectivity inversion. The technique is a modified matched field inversion technique referred to as matched beam processing. Matched beam processing uses conventional beamforming processing to transform the field data into the beam domain and correlate that with the replica field also in the beam domain. This allows the analysis to track the acoustic field as a function of incident/reflected angle and minimize contamination or mismatch due to sidelobe leakage     

江苏近海地层原位剪切波速相关特性及预测方法研究

剪切波速测试是原位勘测常用且有效的技术之一,其测试成果可用于分析场地土层动力学特性。海洋地层测试条件恶劣,在某些情况下对剪切波速的预测分析尤为重要。为了研究海洋地层精确的剪切波速预测方法,结合江苏近海及潮间带的剪切波速原位测试成果,总结和对比分析了剪切波速预测方法,评判了剪切波速的变化特性和与土体物理力学指标的统计关系。基于广义回归神经网络(GRNN)方法,通过剪切波速与土体各参数的统计关系,建立了剪切波速与土体各物理力学指标的非线性映射关系,进行了剪切波速的预测分析,得到了较好的预测结果。     

Crustal low-velocity zone south of Shatsky Rise,northwest Pacific Ocean

The detailed seismic refraction investigation of the oceanic crust south of Shatsky Rise in the Northwestern Pacific revealed a low velocity zone (LVZ) with an average compressional wave velocity of 6.3 km/s within layer 3. This conclusion is based on the shadow zone for refractions on the travel time curves in their first arrivals from the M discontinuity. The LVZ may be composed of oceanic plagiogranites because serpentinization of peridotites would probably lead to an increase in crustal block volume with a concomitent decrease in density and thereby thickening and upwelling at the place of now “overdeepened” ocean would be expected.     

Effect of higher-order bottom variation terms on the refraction of water waves in the extended mild-slope equations

This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.     

The vertical structure of combined wave–current flow

A simple numerical model, based on the Reynolds stress equations and k–ε turbulence closure scheme, is developed for the coastal wave and current bottom boundary layer. The current friction velocity is introduced to account for the effect of currents on waves. The implicit Crank–Nicolson finite difference method discretizes the governing equations. Vertical changing step grids with the constant ratio for two adjacent spatial steps are used together with the equal time steps in the modeling. Vertical profiles of mean current velocity and wave velocity amplitude are obtained. These modeled results are compared with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. It has been shown that modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) mean velocity profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) wave velocity amplitude profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled wave velocity amplitudes are in good agreement with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands].     

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。     

Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport

A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, a_c expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found.     

Instability of the Kuroshio in Luzon Strait: Effects of ridge topography and stratification

The spectral analyses of moored current velocities in the central Luzon Strait reveal northward (i.e., downstream of the Kuroshio) propagation of a frontal wave with a five-day period, with wave amplitude increasing northward. Estimated from both curve fitting and frequency domain Empirical Orthogonal Function methods, the characteristics of five-day variations have wave speeds ranging from 32 to 40 cm s⁻¹, wavelengths ranging from 130 to 150 km, and e-folding time scales for growth ranging from 0.8 to 3 days. An analytical two-layer model used to explore linear stability characteristics indicates that bottom topography (two meridional ridges) is important for the Kuroshio stability characteristics in the Luzon Strait. In the two-layer model with the two ridges, the flow is stabilized for the long-wave mode but destabilized for the short-wave mode (due to increasing vertical shear in the horizontal velocity). The analytical model produces wavelengths and phase speeds for the most unstable mode which is similar to the observation, but the growth rate is underestimated. However, a spectral numerical model applied with a more realistic stratification and velocity structure does obtain faster growth rates comparable to the observations. Parameter sensitivity tests were conducted using the analytical model. The characteristics of the most unstable mode are most sensitive to the surface front location relative to the bottom topography but not sensitive to varying the density difference and thickness of the upper layer.     

An extended analytic solution for combined refraction and diffraction of long waves over circular shoals

A new analytic solution of the mild-slope long wave equation is derived for studying the effects of bottom topography on combined refraction and diffraction. The solution is essentially of a series form involving the Bessel functions of real orders but is found to be singular as the bottom tends to be parabolic. Numerical evaluation of the solution nearby the singularity requires some special considerations. The particular solution under the singular condition is also given. Study on combined refraction and diffraction for waves around a circular island on the top of a shoal, which is radially described by a power function with two independent parameters, indicates that there exist an extremely high wave zone near the top of a hyperparabolic shoal. It is also found that the intensity of wave ray focusing increases significantly as the mean slope decreases. A direct consequence of the wave ray focusing is the concentration of wave energy and an increase of the maximal wave runup height around the island.     

基于潮间带现场数据的底部切应力算法对比

底部切应力作为水动力和泥沙输移模型中的关键参数,对底床泥沙起动、侵蚀淤积速率的研究十分重要.目前基于现场实测流速数据计算底部切应力的理论方法有6种:LP-mean法、LP-max法、TKE法、TKE W法、RS法和ID法,这些方法都有其特定的适用条件.河口海岸浅水区域水流和波浪作用复杂,遴选合适的方法计算底部切应力非常...     

Seabed Morphology and Pollution Along the Bagnoli Coast (Naples, Italy): a Hypothesis for Environmental Restoration

Abstract. The interaction of coastal and submarine morphology with the hydrodynamic regimes exerts a control on coastal dynamic processes, conditioning the dispersion of sediments and potential pollutants existing in the area. Thus, the study of such parameters is useful in order to define environmental threats. Within the submerged sector of the Bagnoli coast and particularly in the southern part of the investigated area, there are sediment groups composed of very fine sands located in low-energy zones due to wave refraction and diffraction; they can also be found on the sea bottom and on the man-made structures typical of this zone. These areas show high pollutant levels of N, P, Cu, Fe, Mn, Ni, Pb, Zn, Cd, polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and polychlorinated bi-phenyls (PCBs). The northern area, a place of high-energy hydrodynamic processes, also shows high concentration levels of pollutants due to the presence of secondary cell circulation.
Morphological research and analysis of textural characteristics of bottom sediments along the Bagnoli coast allowed the actual processes and their evolution in space and time to be defined. It has also been possible to correlate such processes to the seabed morphology system, the wave formations which affect the coast, the complex system of sediment transport, as well as to the man-made interventions in the area. The results of recent chemical analyses of beach sediments and bottom sediments off the Bagnoli coast were also incorporated. They prove the presence of heavy metals, PAHs and PCBs in high and sometimes very high concentrations. Finally, based on the results of research and analyses, a hypothesis for an intervention for environmental restoration has been formulated in order to renaturalise the coast through dredging and treatment of the sand, both on the seabed and on the emerged beach.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

基于OBS和MCS数据的水合物地层速度特征

天然气水合物是一种新型的清洁能源, 南海北部神狐海域的地质条件有利于水合物的形成和储藏。传统的多道地震(MCS)数据难以得到精确的速度信息, 并且只能从时间域上判断地质体纵向分布。海底地震仪(OBS)是一种常用的主动源地震仪器, 可以接收到更清晰的气枪信号。相比于MCS, OBS剖面上的折射震相可以揭示较深部的地层速度信息。文章结合MCS和OBS的优势, 识别水平叠加剖面上的反射层位, 并得到初始模型; 将OBS剖面和水平叠加剖面拼合, 从而判断OBS剖面上反射震相所对应层位; 拾取OBS台站上的反射和折射震相, 使用RayInvr软件正演模拟得到水合物存在区域的二维速度模型, 解决了MCS中较为困难的时深转换问题。最终模型显示了水合物、游离气区域的埋深、厚度和速度, 以及似海底反射(BSR)下方更深部界面的深度和速度特征。     

Analysis of some key parametrizations in a beach profile morphodynamical model

A numerical process-based model to forecast beach profile morphodynamics has been developed. In the present paper, an analysis of various modelling approaches and key parametrizations involved in the estimation of the wave-driven current and the suspended sediment concentration is carried out.Several resolution techniques for the 1DV horizontal (i.e., in the x-direction perpendicular to coastline) momentum equation governing the Mean Horizontal Velocity (MHV) are analysed. In the first kind of techniques, the mean horizontal velocity is computed from the momentum equation, whereas the Mean Water Level (MWL) is computed using a parametrization of the depth-averaged momentum equation. Two boundary or integral conditions are thus needed. In the second kind, both mean horizontal velocity and mean water level gradient in the x-direction are the unknowns of the momentum equation, thus, three boundary or integral conditions are needed. Various additional conditions are discussed. We show that using a technique of the first kind is equivalent to imposing the difference between the surface and the bottom shear stresses in the 1D vertical equation. Both techniques lead to results that are in good agreement with the Delta Flume experimental data, provided the Stokes drift flow discharge is imposed as an additional condition. The influence of the breaking roller model and of the turbulent viscosity parametrization are also analysed.Suspended sediment transport by the mean current and wave-induced bedload transport are taken into account in the sediment flux. Three turbulent diffusivity parametrizations are compared for suspended sediment concentration estimations. A linear profile for the turbulent diffusivity taking into account the wave bottom shear stress and the surface wave breaking turbulence production is shown to give the best results. Using experimental data, we put forward the poor estimation of the bottom sediment concentration given by the three implemented parametrizations. We thus propose a new parametrization relying on a Shields parameter based on the breaking roller induced surface shear stress. Using this new parametrization, the bottom profile used in the tests keeps its two bars which disappear otherwise. However, the morphodynamical model still overestimates the bars offshore motion, a bias already observed in other models.     

Partially standing wave measurement in the presence of steady current by use of coincident velocity and/or pressure data

In recent years, instrumentation for field flow measurements has become more and more sophisticated. In particular, local pressure and velocity are measured at frequency rates up to at least 2 Hz, which gives information on wave energy. The present work describes the methods for partially standing wave measurement in the presence of current by use of coincident measurements of both horizontal velocity and pressure, or vertical velocity. Reflection calculated from either coincident horizontal and vertical velocities or three-gauge methods are compared. They are based on existing experiments carried out in an ocean wave basin for both regular and irregular waves in the presence of current. Applications to field measurements, out of and in the breaking zones are then presented. In the nearshore, coincident horizontal and vertical velocities far from the bottom, and coincident horizontal velocity and pressure close to the bottom give relevant information concerning partially standing waves.