泉州市砂质海岸侵蚀特征及原因分析

基于泉州市沿岸岸滩侵蚀状况调查,结合海岸动力地貌学知识研究,分析泉州市沿岸岸滩侵蚀状况.调查岸段有32个,对其进行采样拍照及侵蚀现状描述,对7个岸段进行了剖面调查及沉积物分析.研究表明泉州市沙质海岸以岬控岸和沙坝--泻湖为主,岬控岸的沉积物和剖面表现为中细粒沉积和岸坡由近岸向海变平缓,而沙坝--泻湖岸则以粗粒沉积和岸坡起伏不平为特征,沉积物特征、沿岸输沙、平衡剖面及动力地貌均反映了泉州砂质海岸的侵蚀状况.在全球海平面上升的大背景下,除特大自然灾害影响,泉州近海域的人为活动恶化了海岸侵蚀的程度,其中以海砂开采最为严重.     

浮渡河口沙坝—潟湖地貌系统稳定性评价研究

沙坝—潟湖是一类持续处于动态平衡调整过程中的地貌系统,具有河口典型的生态系统和重要的科研价值。文章从物源供给特征、外部干扰特征和沙坝—潟湖系统结构特征3个方面考虑,构建了沙坝—潟湖系统稳定性评价指标模型,用于评估浮渡河河口沙坝—潟湖稳定性。结果表明：2001—2012年沙坝—潟湖稳定性明显下降,河口筑坝、围海养殖等海岸开发活动强度的增加是引起稳定性下降的主要原因。在人类干扰活动较小的阶段,沙坝—潟湖稳定性会逐步调整并趋于动态平衡,但很难恢复原始稳定状态。沙坝－潟湖海岸是海岸整治修复的重要对象,采用量化指数方法识别沙坝－潟湖海岸演化趋势,可进一步增强海岸整治修复对策合理性。     

旅游开发活动对沙坝-潟湖景观稳定性的影响分析——以广西北海银滩沙坝-潟湖景观为例

以北海银滩两组沙坝—潟湖景观的旅游开发为例,基于1990,2000和2003年的遥感数据和GIS技术,研究旅游开发活动对沙坝—潟湖景观稳定性的影响。研究结果表明,1)目前沙坝(滩)用于旅游开发,人类活动作用下加速岸滩的蚀退和潟湖的淤积,使沙坝—潟湖景观体系走向衰退。2)人类活动作用下两组沙坝—潟湖景观呈同步变化,海岸景观生态过程与联系使得整体的演变效应明显扩大。3)旅游活动影响下的沙坝——潟湖景观格局的稳定性主要取决于旅游经济活动对沙坝——潟湖景观的合理利用。研究结果可为沙坝—潟湖景观和海滩旅游度假区的旅游开发及生态管理提供参考和借鉴。     

山东威海滨海沙滩动力地貌特征

通过现场调查数据和动力地貌分析,探讨了山东威海滨海沙滩剖面形态及其动力学特征。将研究区砂质海岸地貌类型分为岬湾型、沙坝泻湖型2种,其中沙坝泻湖型又可分为沙坝型,沙咀型和连岛型3种亚型。在海岸地貌类型、海洋动力和人为因素影响下,研究区的沙滩形态表现出显著的差异。依据破波尺度参数ε的大小,研究区沙滩可分为反射型、沙坝-槽谷型、低潮阶地型和耗散型4种类型。沙滩开发利用和养护对策的制定,应该针对海岸地貌类型和沙滩形态而区别对待。     

华南海岸动力地貌体系

华南海岸动力地貌可分为河口三角洲体系、溺谷体系、岬角-海湾体系、沙坝-澙湖体系、潮滩体系、珊瑚礁碟形沙岛-洼地体系、海峡冲刷槽-潮流三角洲体系等七类.本文将扼要阐述各类体系的外动力过程、侵蚀与堆积地貌及其演变的特征.     

海南岛港湾演变与工程建设

海南岛沿岸多港湾，主要有3种类型的潮汐汊道型港湾：（1）沙坝-泻湖型潮汐汊道港湾主要分布在东南部海岸，以三亚港最为典型。三亚港原始岸线为基岩港湾海岸，由中生代花岗岩构成。花岗岩风化泥沙充填谷地港湾连成陆地，以沙坝-泻湖体系形式逐渐堆积成海积平原。（2）港湾型潮汐汊道主要分布在海南岛西部，起源于构造断裂带的港湾。其演化的主要因素是河流及海岸侵蚀向湾内供应的沉积物以及巨大的纳潮量形成的潮流动力。消费品流及海岸供沙使纳潮水域淤积，纳潮量相应减少，同时在口门内外形成潮流三角洲（拦门沙浅滩）。（3）溺谷型潮汐汊道主要分布在海南岛北岸、东北岸。其演化过程是：古河口溺谷，沿岸输沙发育海岸沙坝，古河口溺谷逐渐淤积衰退，潮流作用形成 口门外落潮流堆积体及涨潮带入海相细粒物质，使纳潮水域进一步淤浅缩小，目前这类汊道处于发育演化的晚期，接近汊道整体的消亡。     

近期辽东湾西侧砂质海滩冲淤特征北大核心CSCD

2013—2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。     

近期辽东湾西侧砂质海滩冲淤特征

2013—2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。     

烟台芝罘岛连岛沙坝地区全新世以来的地貌与环境演变

在前人研究成果和已有钻孔资料的基础上，通过野外观测、地貌制图、钻探、取样、年代测定和孢粉分析，对芝罘岛连岛沙坝地区全新世以来的地貌和环境演变进行了研究。结果表明，芝罘岛沙坝地区可划分为北部芝罘岛、南部基岩岬角和中部海积—冲积—风积平原3个地貌单元，其中中部堆积平原又包括西部的河口沙坝—泻湖平原和东部的连岛沙坝平原，其界线为大沽夹河河口。芝罘岛沙坝地区全新统包括5种沉积相、11种沉积亚相，它们构成海侵体系(TST)和高海面体系(HST)两种基本层序，前者形成于6000aBP前的全新世最大海侵时期，后者形成于6000aBP以来的相对海面波动时期。芝罘岛连岛沙坝北部形成于6000～5000aBP的相对海面稳定期及4000aBP以来的波动期，其下伏平台6000aBP前即己形成；沙坝南部开始形成于2300aBP前，最后成陆于300a以来，但其下伏平台在7700aBP前已形成。4000aBP以来相对海面的波动式升降及其河流、海岸地貌响应，在连岛沙坝的形成过程中起了重要作用。     

台风"艾利"对福建沙质海滩影响过程研究

通过对福建沙质海滩地形地貌现场调查,对比分析0418号台风“艾利”登陆福建前后各沙滩剖面的蚀淤变化,探讨了福建沙滩对台风“艾利”响应规律。研究结果表明,2004年8月底台风“艾利”过境期间,福建沿海砂质海岸显出了较强烈的地貌响应。沙滩剖面地形变化,冲淤相间,以冲蚀为主;后滨沙丘蚀退、滩肩蚀低、岸线向陆迁移是地貌响应的主要特征;沙滩沉积物的总收支趋于亏损。不同海岸类型的沙滩剖面对台风“艾利”的响应特征不同。岬湾型沙滩剖面地貌响应以前滨滩面侵蚀为主要特征。夷直型的长乐江田下沙剖面,对“艾利”台风的主要地貌响应特征为后滨沙丘、高潮带侵蚀,岸线后退超过16m,出现高度近1 m的直立侵蚀陡坎。沙坝-泻湖型沙滩剖面冲淤变化的主要特征是中潮带形成次一级沙坝。各沙滩的地貌风暴效应有自北往南依次减弱的趋势。     

我国滨海旅游度假区开发的文化问题思考

滨海旅游度假文化是海洋文化的一个组成部分,是现代滨海开发地区为度假旅游者创造的一种旅游文化。这种文化的度假性、开发性、外向性和崇商性,是滨海旅游度假区吸引度假旅游者的关键所在。为使滨海旅游度假文化建设持续地发展,除生态的、技术的原则外,在滨海旅游度假区规划设计时应遵循整体性、时代性、审美性和赢利性原则。     

深圳发展东部滨海旅游度假区的前景探析

深圳具备优良的海滨旅游资源，但其滨海旅游特色一直体现得不够充分，滨海度假旅游品牌在全国以至海外的影响力还很有限。深圳最近对东部滨海地区的发展进行了总体规划，根据深圳东部滨海地区发展现状和发展规划，就开发深圳东部滨海旅游度假胜地、将东部滨海旅游度假区打造成为具有国际水准的、以滨海休闲度假为特色的黄金海岸旅游胜地提出了的几点建议。     

The impact of human activities on the flushing properties of a semi-enclosed lagoon: Xiaohai, Hainan, China

In this study, a Lagrangian particle tracking model driven by hydrodynamic fields was used to investigate the changes of flushing properties in Xiaohai Lagoon resulting from natural evolution and influences of human activities. Comparisons of residence times between 1936 and 2001 indicate that the flushing efficiency of the lagoon has deteriorated greatly during the past seven decades. Over this period, the average residence time of the lagoon has increased from 45 to 71 days, an increase of 59%. The Lagrangian residual velocity has decreased from 1936 to 2001 in the large portions of the lagoon, and the spatial distribution pattern of the residual current has changed significantly. The well-developed horizontal circulations in 1936 disappeared. Instead, the horizontal Lagrangian residual velocity showed uniformly seaward motion with reduced velocity in 2001. Human activities have incurred great impacts on the deterioration of flushing efficiency. The reduction of river inflow imposed the most significant impact, causing an increase of average residence time by 33%. The land reclamation in the lagoon came as the second most significant factor, causing an increase of 15%. Closure of the North Opening had posed minor impact. The model results suggest that restoring the river inflow, as well as the dredging of the tidal channel and the inner lagoon, should be the top proprieties for future water quality management.     

Long-term morphological modeling of a tidal inlet: the Arcachon Basin,France

The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades.     

黄河口清水沟流路地貌特征研究

黄河入海流路自1976年5月改道至清水沟流路以来,其地貌形态一直处于剧烈的变化当中,以往的研究虽然关注了典型断面主槽的形态特征及过流能力的变化,但对于清水沟流路范围界限内河道断面整体形态及其沿程变化等地貌特征还缺乏系统研究.本文以2019年10月黄河口现行清水沟流路范围渔洼以下河段加测横断面为研究对象,辨识现状地貌分布特点和横断面沿程形态特征,并分析其成因.结果表明:黄河口地貌形成受自然演变和人类活动的影响,既具有主槽、滩地、堤防等河流地貌要素,又具有滩涂、潮沟、拦门沙等海洋地貌要素.在有堤防河段,主槽形态窄深,过流能力较强;在无堤防河段,主槽形态宽浅,过流能力较差;从滩槽高差、唇滩高差、滩地横比降三个指标来看,无堤防河段的"自然悬河"程度大于有堤防河段的"二级悬河"程度.黄河口悬河程度小于黄河下游大部分河段,但黄河口尾闾河道的滩地横比降依然远大于河道纵比降,若发生漫滩洪水将极易引起顺堤行洪,会对黄河口堤防安全造成极大威胁.     

Fish fauna recovery in a newly re-flooded Mediterranean coastal lagoon

Drana Lagoon, located at the NW site of Evros River Delta, was drained in 1987 and re-flooded in 2004 within the framework of an integrated wetland restoration project. This study presents the results of a monitoring program of the lagoon's oceanographic, water quality and fish fauna characteristics, during the pre- and post-restoration period. Results depict the presence of high salinity water (up to 41) due to seawater intrusion, strong evaporation in its interior and inadequate freshwater inflows. Overall, nutrient levels were low depicting local changes. Tidal variability at the mouth was approximately 0.2 m, producing high velocity tidal currents (up to 0.75 m/s). Eleven fish fauna species were collected; seven species were caught in both the inlet channel and the lagoon during the pre-restoration period and nine species in the post-restoration period. Atherina boyeri (37.6%) and Pomatoschistus marmoratus (31.7%) dominated the lagoon during the post-restoration period. Most of the A. boyeri specimens (88.5%) were caught inside the lagoon, while P. marmoratus had an almost equal distribution in the inlet channel and the lagoon (56.3% and 43.7% respectively). The presence of species of the Mugilidae family (5.2% total average catches after lagoon re-flooding) was mainly in the inlet channel (12.6% of the average catches) and not inside the lagoon (only 1.3% of the average catches). The small number of fish species inhabiting the lagoon might be the result of the recent restoration or it could be related with the increased water flow observed at the lagoon mouth during the flood and ebb tidal phases, and also in the presence of a smooth bank in the concrete waterspout that connects the entrance channel with the lagoon. The limited presence of the Mugilidae juveniles inside the lagoon could be related to the prevailing tidal inlet dynamics (i.e. strong ebb flow at lagoon inlet), thus preventing the species to enter the lagoon. In order to restore the lagoon environment, careful and gradual steps should be undertaken under the basis of continuous monitoring of hydrologic, environmental and fisheries system's status.     

Sedimentation in mangroves and coral reefs in a wet tropical island, Pohnpei, Micronesia

A six-month-long study was conducted of the fate of turbid river plumes from the Enipein watershed in Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia. Pohnpei is one of the wettest places on earth, with a mean annual rainfall exceeding 4 m in the lowlands and 8 m in the highlands. The river waters were clear of sediment except after major storms with rainfall exceeding 5 cm day⁻¹. Following a storm, the river plume spread in the mangrove fringed estuary and in the coral reef lagoon. The waters were highly stratified in temperature, salinity, and suspended sediment concentration. The brackish water was flushed out in four days, while the suspended sediment all settled out in the estuary, in the mangroves, and in the lagoon including on the coral reefs, in less than one day. The mean rate of sedimentation exceeded 35 mg cm⁻² d⁻¹ both over the mangroves and on the adjacent coral reefs. While this leads to no detrimental effects on the mangroves, sediment smothers corals and leads to substantial coral mortality in the lagoon. The mud is not flushed out from the lagoon because there are no strong currents from waves or tides. This high sedimentation rate is attributable to poor farming and land-use practices on the upland areas.     

Facies and geometry of tidal channel-fill deposits (Arcachon Lagoon, SW France)

The Arcachon Lagoon has an important network of tidal channels and well developed tidal flats covered by the marine grass Zostera marina. Based on 66 piston cores taken from the Graveyron tidal channel, and observations on the neighbouring channels, this paper documents the facies and geometry of the channel-fill deposits. In the inner lagoon (studied area) the tidal channels are 80 to 150 m wide and have a meandering morphology with sandy point bars 2 to 5 m thick. The channel-fill does not consist of the classic inclined heterolithic bedding typical of many channel-fills (Reineck, 1958), but of cross-stratified sandy deposits characterized by the absence of slack-water clay-drapes. These unusual facies characteristics are due to the low turbidity of the lagoonal waters which is caused by the lack of significant river inflow and the dense coverage of Zostera marina on the tidal flats. The overall geometry of the channel-fill deposits is characterized by a narrow sand-ribbon shape, a few kilometres long, 80 to 150 m wide and 1 to 5 m thick. This sand ribbon is made of elliptical sand bodies, deposited as point bars, that coalesce longitudinally along the channel axis. This narrow shape is due to the fact that the lateral migration of the channel is virtually nil (reduced to a few metres). In spite of their characteristic meandering morphology, these channels do not deposit extensive tabular sand sheets of amalgamated point bars like the tidal creeks on the North Sea tidal flats. Two factors are thought to control this lack of channel migration. (1) The tidal flats adjacent to the tidal channels are made of 3- to 5-m-thick cohesive muddy sediments covered by Zostera marina that prevents the erosion of the channel banks. This first mechanism is supported by the observation that the tidal creeks that drain the muddy tidal flats covered by Zostera marina do not migrate laterally, whereas those that drain the sandy tidal flats devoid of a dense coverage of marine grass do have active lateral migration. (2) The tidal channels are not fed by any river and therefore do not receive any fluvial sand influx during the winter floods. Their morphology is in equilibrium with the tidal discharge and represents a stable stage in the development of the channel. This second mechanism is supported by the fact that the only tidal channels that actively migrate laterally in the lagoon receive sandy fluvial influx from the River Leyre located in the southeastern corner of the lagoon.     

Spit and Inlet Morphodynamics of a Tropical Coastal Lagoon

The morphological changes of spits and inlets of the Chilika lagoon, the largest brackish water tropical coastal lagoon in Asia, are investigated using real-time kinematic GPS observation and numerical models during 2009–2013. The seasonal/interannual variations of the spit and inlet cross-sectional areas with varying widths and depths are recorded in association with different physical processes. The results show significant changes in spit morphology: particularly, the south spit accreted continuously, while the middle and north spits eroded. The cross-sectional depth of inlets becomes narrower and deeper during summer and winter seasons, while they are wider and shallower during the monsoon. The model results show that sediment transport rate is larger during monsoon and summer, while it is relatively less during the winter. Alongshore, sediment transport is predominantly northward throughout the study period. The result shows that gain/loss of the spits and closure/opening of inlets are significantly controlled by the high wave power, longshore drifts, and river discharge. The study demonstrates that the combined use of observational and numerical models is very effective to understand the changes of spit and inlet morphology and their impact on ecological conditions of the lagoon environment.