Synergy and fusion of optical and synthetic aperture radar satellite data for underwater topography estimation in coastal areas

A method to obtain underwater topography for coastal areas using state-of-the-art remote sensing data and techniques worldwide is presented. The data from the new Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) satellite TerraSAR-X with high resolution up to 1 m are used to render the ocean waves. As bathymetry is reflected by long swell wave refraction governed by underwater structures in shallow areas, it can be derived using the dispersion relation from observed swell properties. To complete the bathymetric maps, optical satellite data of the QuickBird satellite are fused to map extreme shallow waters, e.g., in near-coast areas. The algorithms for bathymetry estimation from optical and SAR data are combined and integrated in order to cover different depth domains. Both techniques make use of different physical phenomena and mathematical treatment. The optical methods based on sunlight reflection analysis provide depths in shallow water up to 20 m in preferably calm weather conditions. The depth estimation from SAR is based on the observation of long waves and covers the areas between about 70- and 10-m water depths depending on sea state and acquisition quality. The depths in the range of 20 m up to 10 m represent the domain where the synergy of data from both sources arises. Thus, the results derived from SAR and optical sensors complement each other. In this study, a bathymetry map near Rottnest Island, Australia, is derived. QuickBird satellite optical data and radar data from TerraSAR-X have been used. The depths estimated are aligned on two different grids. The first one is a uniform rectangular mesh with a horizontal resolution of 150 m, which corresponds to an average swell wavelength observed in the 10 × 10-km SAR image acquired. The second mesh has a resolution of 150 m for depths up to 20 m (deeper domain covered by SAR-based technique) and 2.4 m resolution for the shallow domain imaged by an optical sensor. This new technique provides a platform for mapping of coastal bathymetry over a broad area on a scale that is relevant to marine planners, managers, and offshore industry.     

Analysis of nonlinear site response using the LSST downhole accelerometer array data

Both linear and nonlinear behaviors of soil deposits were evaluated by strong and weak motion data observed on the surface and at depths of 6, 11, 17, 47 m at the Large Scale Seismic Test (LSST) array in Lotung, Taiwan. The soil properties measured by well logging and by the shear wave velocity profile measured by uphole and cross-hole methods are available. Both one-dimensional equivalent-linear method and nonlinear method are used for the evaluation have been used. The synthetic records at various depths are obtained by using the records at the bottom as input motion. These synthetic records are then compared with actual records at corresponding depths. Records of 13 earthquakes are used. We find that the synthetic records obtained from a linear model match well with actual records for small input motions, but the results obtained from a nonlinear model match poorly. On the other hand, the synthetic records using both the nonlinear model and equivalent-linear model are in good agreement with the observed records for large input motions. In these cases, the predicted response spectra using the linear model consistently overestimate the observed records. The threshold distinguishing the large and small input motions is 0.04 g at depth of 47 m for the LSST data. Thus, the nonlinearity started at 0.04 g and occurred unequivocally at 0.075 g. Furthermore, the dominant frequencies shift toward lower values when input motions become large. Clearly, the observed records at the LSST site manifest nonlinearity of soil response. The hysteresis loops evaluated by the nonlinear method show a permanent strain of about 0.01% in soil layers at higher ground motion input levels in this case.     

Mapping bathymetry using X-band marine radar data recorded from a moving vessel

Marine radars mounted on ships can provide remarkable insights into ocean behaviour from distances of several kilometres, placing other in situ observations and the environment around a ship into a wider oceanographic context. It has been known for some time that it is possible to map shallow water bathymetry and currents using radar image sequences recorded from shore based stations. However, a long standing question from military and hydrographic communities has been whether such techniques can be applied to radar data collected by moving vessels. If so, this presents the possibility of mapping large areas of shallow or coastal seas (albeit with a somewhat coarse horizontal resolution of 50–100 m) prior to the surveying vessel actually having to travel into potentially uncharted or dangerous shallow water areas. Trial sets of radar data were recorded by the Canadian Forces Auxiliary Vessel Quest using a Wamos radar digitiser connected to a Decca navigation radar during a number of deployments around Nova Scotia in 2008 and 2009. Georeferencing corrections derived from the existing ship navigation systems were sufficient to allow the application of the existing depth inversion analysis designed for static radar installations. This paper presents the results of bathymetry analyses of two datasets recorded from CFAV Quest while the vessel was travelling at speeds of up to 14 knots. The bathymetry derived from the radar data compare favourably with independent surveys and with the on-board echo sounder to depths of approximately 50 m.     

The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

A preliminary study on Typhoon Tim induced resonance at Hualien Harbor,Taiwan

New analysis of wave records at Hualien Harbor during Typhoon Tim in 1994 reveals that for certain wave periods, the ratios of measured wave heights among three available wave stations inside the harbor are unique and roughly remain the same during the severest period of resonance. Since there is no incident infragravity wave (period from 80 to 220 s) information at offshore boundaries, these unique ratios become the surrogate of background truth for checking the performance of numerical simulations. A new simulation effort using a large (45 × 17 km) modeling domain, high-resolution (20 × 20 m) grid and the RIDE wave transformation model were conducted to simulate the observed responses. Comparison of the modeling results with the observations showed reasonable agreement. Additional model studies using ideal bathymetries with the same grid domain and resolution were also conducted to help interpret the prototype modeling results. The effects of two types of commonly used remedies were first examined by using the ideal bathymetry, and then, the prototype bathymetry. The results demonstrated that a single 1-km long, shore-parallel breakwater could significantly reduce the resonance. The results of using three shore-parallel breakwaters, however, are no better. More studies to identify the optimum design associated with the shore-parallel breakwater (location, length, etc.) are necessary for the optimum reduction of resonance at Hualien Harbor.     

Water percolation in a thick unsaturated loess layer considering the ground‐atmosphere interaction

The key objective of this paper is to advance our present understanding of how surface water infiltrates in thick unsaturated loess, which is found in arid and semiarid regions of the world, considering the ground‐atmosphere interaction. In situ data for a period of 1 year in thick loess layer at a site in the Loess Plateau of China that has groundwater table at 97.5 m depth were collected for achieving this objective. Climate factors, mainly rainfall and actual evaporation, were measured. In addition, variations of soil temperature and water content at different depths in the unsaturated zone were also measured. The data were used to interpret the water percolation characteristics by dividing the thick unsaturated zone into three zones; namely, (i) surface zone, which constitutes the top 1.0 m, (ii) unsteady zone, which is from 1.0 to 7.0 m, and (iii) steady zone, which is below 7.0 m. In the surface zone, soil temperature and water content are sensitive to climate factors. There is a variation of water content associated with the cumulative influence of infiltration and evaporation in the precipitation and nonprecipitation periods, respectively. In the unsteady zone, the water content is relatively constant; however, temperature varies in different seasons. Water percolation in this zone is both in liquid and vapour phases. In the steady zone, both soil temperature and water content are constant during the entire investigation period. The percolation velocity in this zone is approximately 1.23 × 10^?8 m/s or 0.39 m/year, which suggests that it will take approximately 230.8 years for surface water to pass through the thick unsaturated zone and recharge the groundwater.     

Improved seawater depth determination using corrected helicopter time-domain electromagnetic data

Two areas within Sydney Harbour were surveyed in 2002 with a helicopter‐borne time‐domain electromagnetic system to test its potential for bathymetric mapping in shallow seawater. As delivered, the data were improperly calibrated. Therefore a re‐calibration was performed to reconcile the measured data with ‘ground truth’. Synthetic electromagnetic transients were computed for two‐layer models representing the seawater and the sediment overlying bedrock at a number of locations within the survey area. The seawater depth in the models varied between 3 m and 70 m. The measured and calculated data were compared at each delay time, and were found to be linearly related. The slope and intercept of the line of best fit were used to correct all the measured data. Inversion of the corrected time‐domain electromagnetic data generally resolved the bathymetry to submetre accuracy down to depths of about 55 m.     

Contemporary morphodynamics of a high-energy headland-embayment shoreface

A 2-year investigation into shoreface morphodynamic behaviour off a high-energy headland-embayment coast in Northern Ireland reveals important process–response mechanisms that cannot be explained solely by existing conceptual models. Fourteen sequential bathymetric surveys, conducted every 1–2 months, show that morphologic (seabed) change is not directly related to oceanographic forcing—extensive nearshore and shoreface accretion and erosion occurs under fair-weather, modal and high-energy conditions. The main factors which seem to cause significant change are long-duration (swell) events coupled with onshore winds, availability of (recently) introduced sediment, surges and elapsed time between storms and the next scheduled survey. Several high-energy events over a short time period (<30 days) did not result in extensive seafloor changes, contrary to expectations. Net seabed change over 2 years shows an average to 0.6 m m^?2 of shoreface accretion from the nearshore to 24 m depth. Net erosion was not observed anywhere, including the subaerial beach. Geologic evidence strongly suggests that the source of the significant volume (7.7×105 m³) of sediment introduced into the study area must have been derived from the lower shoreface and/or inner shelf, beyond 24 m depth.     

Strain-induced magma degassing: insights from simple-shear experiments on bubble bearing melts

Experiments have been performed to determine the effect of deformation on degassing of bubble-bearing melts. Cylindrical specimens of phonolitic composition, initial water content of 1.5 wt.% and 2 vol.% bubbles, have been deformed in simple-shear (torsional configuration) in an internally heated Paterson-type pressure vessel at temperatures of 798–848 K, 100–180 MPa confining pressure and different final strains. Micro-structural analyses of the samples before and after deformation have been performed in two and three dimensions using optical microscopy, a nanotomography machine and synchrotron tomography. The water content of the glasses before and after deformation has been measured using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR). In samples strained up to a total of γ ∼ 2 the bubbles record accurately the total strain, whereas at higher strains (γ ∼ 10) the bubbles become very flattened and elongate in the direction of shear. The residual water content of the glasses remains constant up to a strain of γ ∼ 2 and then decreases to about 0.2 wt.% at γ ∼ 10. Results show that strain enhances bubble coalescence and degassing even at low bubble volume-fractions. Noticeably, deformation produced a strongly water under-saturated melt. This suggests that degassing may occur at great depths in the volcanic conduit and may force the magma to become super-cooled early during ascent to the Earth’s surface potentially contributing to the genesis of obsidian.     

Age modelling for Pleistocene lake sediments: A comparison of methods from the Andean Fúquene Basin (Colombia) case study

Challenges and pitfalls for developing age models for long lacustrine sedimentary records are discussed and a comparison is made between radiocarbon dating, visual curve matching, and frequency analysis in the depth domain in combination with cyclostratigraphy. A core section of the high resolution 284-ka long temperature record developed from Lake Fúquene in the Northern Andes is used to explore four different age models (a–d). (a) A model based on 46 AMS ¹⁴C dates of bulk sediment is hampered by low concentrations of organic carbon. (b) A model based on the comparison of the radiocarbon dated pollen record to the well-established record from Cariaco Basin using curve matching and visual tie points. For the upper 26 m of the core this approach yields an age interval of 28–59.5 ka. (c) Another age model is based on curve matching and the Intcal09 radiocarbon calibration curve, yielding an age range of 22.5–80.4 ka for the same core interval. (d) Finally, a model is developed based on spectral analysis in the depth domain of the temperature-related altitudinal migrations of the upper forest line. This method identifies periodicities without a pre-conceived idea of age. The main frequency of 9.07 m appears to reflect the 41-kyr orbital signal of obliquity, which is tuned to the filtered 41-kyr temperature signal from the well-constrained LR04 marine benthic ∂¹⁸O stack record (Lisiecki and Raymo, 2005). Using this last age-modelling approach, the upper 26 m of core Fq-9C yields a temporal interval of 27–133 ka. Problems arising from radiocarbon dating carbon poor sediments from a large lake are addressed and the visual curve matching approach is compared to the analysis of cyclic changes in sediment records in developing an age model. We conclude that the frequency analysis and cyclostratigraphy model is the most reliable one of the four approaches. These results show that cyclostratigraphy may provide a useful method for developing an age model for long terrestrial records including multiple orbital cycles.     

Optimizing spectral wave estimates with adjoint-based sensitivity maps

A discrete numerical adjoint has recently been developed for the stochastic wave model SWAN. In the present study, this adjoint code is used to construct spectral sensitivity maps for two nearshore domains. The maps display the correlations of spectral energy levels throughout the domain with the observed energy levels at a selected location or region of interest (LOI/ROI), providing a full spectrum of values at all locations in the domain. We investigate the effectiveness of sensitivity maps based on significant wave height (H _s ) in determining alternate offshore instrument deployment sites when a chosen nearshore location or region is inaccessible. Wave and bathymetry datasets are employed from one shallower, small-scale domain (Duck, NC) and one deeper, larger-scale domain (San Diego, CA). The effects of seasonal changes in wave climate, errors in bathymetry, and multiple assimilation points on sensitivity map shapes and model performance are investigated. Model accuracy is evaluated by comparing spectral statistics as well as with an RMS skill score, which estimates a mean model–data error across all spectral bins. Results indicate that data assimilation from identified high-sensitivity alternate locations consistently improves model performance at nearshore LOIs, while assimilation from low-sensitivity locations results in lesser or no improvement. Use of sub-sampled or alongshore-averaged bathymetry has a domain-specific effect on model performance when assimilating from a high-sensitivity alternate location. When multiple alternate assimilation locations are used from areas of lower sensitivity, model performance may be worse than with a single, high-sensitivity assimilation point.     

Altimetry-Derived Gravity Predictions of Bathymetry by the Gravity-Geologic Method

The gravity-geologic method (GGM) was implemented for 2′ by 2′ bathymetric determinations in a 1.6° longitude-by-1.0° latitude region centered on the eastern end of the Shackleton Fracture Zone in the Drake Passage, Antarctica. The GGM used the Bouguer slab approximation to process satellite altimetry-derived marine free-air gravity anomalies and 6,548 local shipborne bathymetric sounding measurements from the Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute to update the surrounding off-track bathymetry. The limitations of the Bouguer slab for modeling the gravity effects of variable density, rugged bathymetric relief at distances up to several kilometers, were mitigated by establishing ‘tuning’ densities that stabilized the GGM predictions. Tests using two-thirds of the shipborne bathymetric measurements to estimate the remaining third indicated that the tuning densities minimized root-mean-square deviations to about 29 m. The optimum GGM bathymetry model honoring all the ship observations correlated very well with widely available bathymetry models, despite local differences that ranged up to a few kilometers. The great analytical simplicity of GGM facilitates accurately and efficiently updating bathymetry as new gravity and bathymetric sounding data become available. Furthermore, the availability of marine free-air gravity anomaly data ensures that the GGM is more effective than simply extrapolating or interpolating ship bathymetry coverage into unmapped regions.     

台湾浅滩浅海水深SAR遥感探测实例研究

本文基于浅海地形SAR遥感成像机理,提出星载SAR图像浅海水深遥感探测新技术.利用该遥感探测新技术与浅海地形SAR遥感图像,在台湾浅滩海域进行了浅海水深SAR遥感探测实例研究.SAR遥感探测水深值与实测水深值的比较结果显示,SAR遥感探测水深值的均方根误差达到2.5 m,误差小于10%.表明SAR具有探测浅海水深的能力,本文提出的浅海水深SAR遥感探测技术是收敛与可行的.     

基于重力地质法的南中国海海底地形反演

根据重力地质法（GGM）,利用南中国海海域内63179个船测控制点水深将测高自由空间重力异常划分为长波参考场和短波残差场,并反演出了该海域112°E-119°E,12°N-20°N范围的1’×1’海底地形模型,该过程中使用的海水和海底洋壳密度差异常数1.32 g·cm^-3通过实测水深估计得到.利用反演得到的GGM模型对剩余的10529个检核点船测水深插值计算后与实测水深进行比较,其较差结果的均值为-1.64 m,标准差为76.95 m,相对精度为4.06%.此外,根据船测点数量、分布和海底地形的不同,选择了三个海域进行统计,结果表明：在船测控制点分布均匀的海域,GGM模型精度优于ETOPO1模型,在控制点过于分散的海域其精度会有所下降,但好于船测水深的直接格网化结果.为进一步探究检核点的较差结果中出现较大数值的成因,本文对精度较差的点位进行了单独分析,选择了两条船测航迹剖面进行了研究,并分析了检核点的水深较差、相对精度与水深和重力异常的关系,结果表明：GGM模型精度受水深和重力异常的相关性影响较小,受海底地形复杂程度影响较大,地形坡度变化平缓海域的预测精度明显高于海山地区.最后,综合GGM模型和ETOPO1模型优势,利用所有船测水深作为控制,生成了综合的海底地形模型.     

Multi-scale modeling of Puget Sound using an unstructured-grid coastal ocean model: from tide flats to estuaries and coastal waters

Water circulation in Puget Sound, a large complex estuary system in the Pacific Northwest coastal ocean of the United States, is governed by multiple spatially and temporally varying forcings from tides, atmosphere (wind, heating/cooling, precipitation/evaporation, pressure), and river inflows. In addition, the hydrodynamic response is affected strongly by geomorphic features, such as fjord-like bathymetry and complex shoreline features, resulting in many distinguishing characteristics in its main and sub-basins. To better understand the details of circulation features in Puget Sound and to assist with proposed nearshore restoration actions for improving water quality and the ecological health of Puget Sound, a high-resolution (around 50 m in estuaries and tide flats) hydrodynamic model for the entire Puget Sound was needed. Here, a three-dimensional circulation model of Puget Sound using an unstructured-grid finite volume coastal ocean model is presented. The model was constructed with sufficient resolution in the nearshore region to address the complex coastline, multi-tidal channels, and tide flats. Model open boundaries were extended to the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the northern end of the Strait of Georgia to account for the influences of ocean water intrusion from the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Fraser River plume from the Strait of Georgia, respectively. Comparisons of model results, observed data, and associated error statistics for tidal elevation, velocity, temperature, and salinity indicate that the model is capable of simulating the general circulation patterns on the scale of a large estuarine system as well as detailed hydrodynamics in the nearshore tide flats. Tidal characteristics, temperature/salinity stratification, mean circulation, and river plumes in estuaries with tide flats are discussed.     

Can the Waves Generated by Fast Ferries be a Physical Model of Tsunami?

The potential of long ship-induced waves to serve as a physical model for tsunami waves (called simply tsunami below) is examined. Such waves (wavelengths more than 200 m at depths down to 10–20 m) are induced by high-speed ferries sailing at near-critical speeds in semisheltered, relatively shallow areas. It is shown based on experience from Tallinn Bay, Baltic Sea, that for many aspects these waves can model nearshore dynamics and runup of tsunami caused by landslides, including processes of wave refraction, diffraction, and sea-bottom interaction in bays and harbors. Many governing nondimensional parameters (such as the nonlinearity, dispersion, Reynolds and Ursell numbers, surf similarity parameter, breaking parameter, etc.) of the largest ship waves and landslide tsunamis have the same order of magnitude. It is especially important that use of ship waves for wave propagation and runup studies allows their spatial structure to be accounted for adequately. Near-critical ship waves can therefore be used as a natural substitute for tsunami, for study under controlled and safe conditions.     

Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing

There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (H_s/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<H_s/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (H_s/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s^‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Influence of water mixing on the inhibitory effect of UV radiation on primary and bacterial production in Mediterranean coastal water

The scaling of the solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR, 280–400 nm) effect on phyto- and bacterio-plankton at the ecosystem level is difficult since its estimate is often based on short-time incubation experiments performed at fixed depths, neglecting the previous days’ radiation history and the variable radiation caused by vertical mixing. To examine this issue, we measured primary (PP) and bacterial (BP) production in samples from coastal water in the Northwest Mediterranean Sea incubated at fixed depths or moving vertically within the water column (0–8 m) with a periodicity of 22 min, exposed to full sun, PAR or maintained in dark. Three experiments were carried out on consecutive days to measure day-to-day variations in planktonic response. In surface waters, PP was inhibited by ~32 to 42% by UVR, and BP was inhibited by ~50 to 70% by solar radiation (UVR + PAR). We observed a general decrease in the integrated inhibition of PP due to UVR for both fixed and moving incubations over the 3 days from ~27% of inhibition to non-significant inhibition. In contrast, large discrepancies were observed in the integrated inhibition of BP due to solar radiation (UVR + PAR) between fixed and moving incubations. Whereas both type of incubations gave similar estimation of solar radiation inhibition on day 1 (~25%), inhibition became much higher for fixed incubation compared to moving incubation on days 2 and 3. Differences in responses between days suggest that light history, spectral quality, photoadaptation or acclimation may be important factors in daily observed responses. Our results also underline, for the first time, the importance of the vertical mixing in the BP inhibition by solar radiation.     

Bathymetric Structure‐from‐Motion: extracting shallow stream bathymetry from multi‐view stereo photogrammetry

Stream bathymetry is a critical variable in a number of river science applications. In larger rivers, bathymetry can be measured with instruments such as sonar (single or multi‐beam), bathymetric airborne LiDAR (light detection and ranging), or acoustic Doppler current profilers. However, in smaller streams with depths less than 2 m, bathymetry is one of the more difficult variables to map at high‐resolution. Optical remote sensing techniques offer several potential solutions for collecting high‐resolution bathymetry. In this research, I focus on direct photogrammetric measurements of bathymetry using multi‐view stereo photogrammetry, specifically Structure‐from‐Motion (SfM). The main barrier to accurate bathymetric mapping with any photogrammetric technique is correcting for the refraction of light as it passes between the two different media (air and water), which causes water depths to appear shallower than they are. I propose and test an iterative approach that calculates a series of refraction correction equations for every point/camera combination in a SfM point cloud. This new method is meant to address shortcomings of other correction techniques and works within the current preferred method for SfM data collection, oblique and highly convergent photographs. The multi‐camera refraction correction presented here produces bathymetric datasets with accuracies of ~0.02% of the flying height and precisions of ~0.1% of the flying height. This methodology, like many fluvial remote sensing methods, will only work under ideal conditions (e.g. clear water), but it provides an additional tool for collecting high‐resolution bathymetric datasets for a variety of river, coastal, and estuary systems. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Application of a finite element model (TELEMAC) to computing the wind induced response of the Irish Sea

Initially a brief overview of the problem of computing the wind-induced circulation on the west coast of Britain is reviewed together with storm surge modelling. To date this work has primarily been performed with finite difference models. However, here new work is presented using a finite element model with a range of mesh refinements in shallow water regions to examine the influence of mesh resolution upon the wind-induced circulation off the west coast of Britain. Steady state current fields are computed for uniform westerly and southerly winds and compared with a uniform grid (of order 7 km) finite difference model solution. Calculations show that in deep water regions away from the coastal influence, the large-scale circulation features in the finite element solution are in good agreement with those found in the finite difference model. This suggests that they can be adequately resolved on a 7 km mesh. In the nearshore region and within estuaries a significantly finer mesh is required, with the variable mesh finite element model showing significant small scale variability in the nearshore area. Refining the mesh in the Mersey and using an accurate topographic data set, shows that although the larger scale features in the estuary can be resolved in the coarser mesh model, accurate topography is required to model their exact location. In addition smaller scale features are found that were not resolved in the coarser mesh models. Due to the effects of “wetting and drying” and the importance of non-linear processes in shallow regions difficulties occurred in de-tiding the full solution in order to determine the wind forced residual. Determining the wind forced solution in shallow water from a calculation in which wind and tidal forcing are included poses problems as to how to “de-tide” the solution in such a highly non-linear region. An approach based upon the harmonic analysis of the total solution, rather than subtracting a “tide only” solution is shown to be most effective and has implications for storm surge prediction.General and specific conclusions on the importance of highly accurate bathymetry, good mesh resolution and de-tiding method upon the accuracy of the wind forced solution in nearshore regions are summarized in the final part of the paper. The implications for storm surge prediction together with suggestions for future research to enhance the accuracy of storm surge prediction, namely “the way forward” are given at the end of the paper.