The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

Nonlinear wave propagation on a sphere: Interaction between Rossby waves and gravity waves; stability of the Rossby waves

Abstract

An analytical spectral model of the barotropic divergent equations on a sphere is developed using the potential-stream function formulation and the normal modes as basic functions. Explicit expressions of the coefficients of nonlinear interaction are obtained in the asymptotic case of a slowly rotating sphere, i.e. when the normal modes can be expressed as single spherical harmonics.     

Horizontal water trap for measurement of aeolian sand transport

A new type of horizontal trap was developed for measuring the aeolian sand transport rate on a flat surface. The trap consists of an adjustable frame that is embedded level with the sand surface, into which a plastic liner is installed and filled with water to capture the blown sand. The water trap has high efficiency and does not disturb the wind field or induce upwind scour. Deployment on Padre Island, Texas, indicated that this portable and adjustable trap catches and retains all the sand blown into it, even under relatively strong wind. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Aeolian sand transport at the Lanphere Dunes,Northern California

Aeolian sand transport was studied at the Lanphere Dunes, a coastal dune complex in northern California, by comparing slipface advance rates with transport predicted based on local wind data. The slipfaces of a 2·5 m high transverse ridge and 10 m high parabolic dune were monitored over a period of three months to estimate sand discharge. The study was performed during the dry season, which has the maximum sand‐driving potential. Over the three month study period, average sand discharge was 12·5 m³ per m width per year at the transverse ridge and 8·8 m³ per m width per year at the parabolic dune. A method was developed for modelling slipfaces that are sinuous and where sediment transport rates are not constant across the width of the slipface. Field measurements were used to generate three‐dimensional representations of dune slipfaces. Periodic measurements over the course of three months were used to compute the volume of displaced sediment. Theoretical sand transport was computed from local wind data using the Bagnold model and compared with the observed transport rates. Predicted rates were substantially lower than observed rates. Wind velocities rarely exceeded the threshold velocity. Discrepancies between the observed and predicted values appear to be caused by a combination of wind data recording procedures and differences between wind velocities at the anemometer location and the site where sand transport was measured. Wind data collected by weather bureaux have been utilized in numerous studies for modelling sediment transport. Such data typically have sample intervals of one hour or greater and are often averaged prior to reporting. The effect of averaging was investigated by comparing sand transport estimates based on daily average wind velocities with those based on the original hourly observations. The daily average data were depleted of high velocity winds and sand transport estimates were accordingly much lower than those based on the hourly data. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of tides, wind and waves on the net sand transport in the North Sea

Large-scale redistribution of sand by hydrodynamical processes in shelf seas is important for basin and coastal evolution on time scales of a thousand to tens of thousands of years. The influence of tides on the large-scale net sand-transport patterns in the North Sea has received much attention, but the influence of wind-driven flow and wind waves has hardly been investigated. Here, to establish the present-day situation and to develop a method that can also be used for palaeo-situations and forecasts for different sea levels, this influence is assessed for the present southern North Sea using a numerical flow model, a parametric wave model and a wave-averaged sand-transport formulation. Various forcing combinations are used to identify the dominant transport mechanisms: tides only, tides and wind, tides and waves, and combined tides, wind and waves. Wind forcing is applied in two ways to find an efficient, but still representative, method of incorporating this stochastic process: a statistical wind climatology and an observed time series. The results show that (i) the wind climatology yields a good approximation of the sand transport computed using the time series; (ii) wind-driven flow and waves only contribute significantly to the net sand transport by tides when acting together where tidal currents are small; and (iii) various combinations of forcings dominate the net sand transport in different regions of the southern North Sea: (a) tides dominate in the southern, middle and northwestern parts of the Southern Bight and in the region of The Wash; (b) tides, wind-driven flow and waves all are important in the northeastern part of the Southern Bight; and (c) wind-driven flow and waves dominate north of the Friesian Islands, in the German Bight and on the Dogger Bank. Qualitative comparison with observations shows good agreement.     

Energetics prediction of frequency-dependent suspended sand transport rates on a macrotidal beach

The on–offshore (cross-shore) transport of sand on beaches is highly time-variable, which has made it difficult to model or predict. In this paper, simple energetics modelling is used to compare velocity moment predictions with field observations of suspended sand transport rates. Separate consideration is given to transport associated with the three main frequency-dependent cross-shore transport processes: that associated with the short (incident) waves, that due to the long (infragravity) waves, and transport associated with the mean flow. Direct comparison between the depth-averaged model predictions, and the in-situ point measurements was facilitated by making the first order assumption that the time-averaged suspension profile is exponential and the wave velocity profile is vertically uniform. An appropriate rippled bed roughness was used to provide the drag coefficient in the energetics model and the vertical length scale of the exponential suspension profile. Despite these simple assumptions, comparison of the velocity moment predictions with the field observations of suspended sand fluxes reveals that this approach has the capacity to predict transport magnitudes due to short wave, long wave, and mean flow components to within about one order of magnitude. However, owing to the limitations of the model, the transport direction of the short wave component could not, on occasion, be correctly determined, probably due to ‘reverse’ transport over ripples. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical investigation of the effect of seasonal variations of depthof-closure on shoreline evolution

The current study presents the effects of seasonal variations in the depth-of-closure(Dc)on shoreline evolution using a numerical,one-line shoreline model.Beach erosion of the southern beach of the Nha Trang Coast,which is located in south central of Vietnam,is selected as the study area.This study area is immensely influenced by the tropical monsoon climate that has a clear pattern of large waves in the northeast monsoon season and calm waves in the non-monsoon season.The analysis of the long-term measured shoreline variations from a video-camera system has found a strong correlation of these variations to the monsoon-dominated wave characteristics in the Nha Trang Bay.Therefore,a new approach for determining the depth-of-closure with consideration of the seasonal wave climate changes is purposed in the current study.By implementing this new approach into a numerical,one-line shoreline model,it is found that the seasonal variations of Dc appear to better describe the periodical shoreline evolution due to the monsoon-dominated wave characteristics for the Nha Trang Coast.Such important findings are considered to commonly apply for monsoon-dominated coastal regions in general.These findings are useful information not only for scientific readers but also for the coastal authorities and managers in order to make better countermeasure plans against this kind of erosion mechanism in the future.     

Modeling the effects of pulsed versus chronic sand inputs on salmonid spawning habitat in a low‐gradient gravel‐bed river

It is widely recognized that high supplies of fine sediment, largely sand, can negatively impact the aquatic habitat quality of gravel‐bed rivers, but effects of the style of input (chronic vs. pulsed) have not been examined quantitatively. We hypothesize that a continuous (i.e. chronic) supply of sand will be more detrimental to the quality of aquatic habitat than an instantaneous sand pulse equal to the integrated volume of the chronic supply. We investigate this issue by applying a two‐dimensional numerical model to a 1 km long reach of prime salmonid spawning habitat in central Idaho. Results show that in both supply scenarios, sand moves through the study reach as bed load, and that both the movement and depth of sand on the streambed mirrors the hydrograph of this snowmelt‐dominated river. Predictions indicate greater and more persistent mortality of salmonid embryos under chronic supplies than pulse inputs, supporting our hypothesis. However, predicted mortality varies both with salmonid species and location of spawning. We found that the greatest impacts occur closer to the location of the sand input under both supply scenarios. Results also suggest that reach‐scale morphology may modulate the impact of sand loads, and that under conditions of high sand loading climate‐related increases in flow magnitude could increase embryo mortality through sand deposition, rather than streambed scour. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Nondimensional sediment transport capacity of sand soils and its response to parameter in the Loess Plateau of China

Soil erosion is a major contributor to land degradation in the Loess Plateau in China. To clarify the sediment transport capacity of overland flow influenced by hydraulic parameters, such as shear stress, sand shear stress (hydraulic gradient partition method and hydraulic radius partition method), mean flow velocity, Froude number, stream power, and unit stream power, indoor experiments with eight-unit-width flow discharges from 0.0667 × 10⁻³ to 0.3333 × 10⁻³ m²·s⁻¹, six slope gradients from 3.49 to 20.79%, and two kinds of sand soils (d₅₀ = 0.17 and 0.53 mm) were systematically investigated. A nondimensional method was adopted in data processing. Results showed that there was a partition phenomenon of relation curves because of the different median grain diameters. The correlation between the nondimensional stream power and nondimensional sediment transport capacity was the highest, followed by the correlation between the nondimensional unit stream power and nondimensional sediment transport capacity. However, there was a poor correlation between the flow intensity indices of velocity category and nondimensional sediment transport capacity. Nondimensional stream power, nondimensional unit stream power, and nondimensional shear stress could predict sediment transport capacity well. Ignoring the partition phenomenon of the relation curves, stream power could be used to predict sediment transport capacity, with a coefficient of determination of .85. Furthermore, a general flow intensity index was obtained to predict sediment transport capacity of overland flow. Finally, an empirical formula for predicting sediment transport capacity with a coefficient of determination of .90 was established by multiple regression analyses based on the general flow intensity index. During the analysis between measured sediment transport capacities in present study and predicted values based on Zhang model, Mahmoodabadi model, and Wu model, it was found that these three models could not accurately predict sediment transport capacities of this study because different models are estimated on the basis of different experimental conditions.     

Biogeomorphology in the marine landscape: Modelling the feedbacks between patches of the polychaete worm Lanice conchilega and tidal sand waves

Tidal sand waves are dynamic bedforms found in coastal shelf seas. Moreover, these areas are inhabited by numerous benthic species, of which the spatial distribution is linked to the morphological structure of sand waves. In particular, the tube-building worm Lanice conchilegais of interest as this organism forms small mounds on the seabed, which provide shelter to other organisms. We investigate how the interactions between small-scale mounds (height ∼dm) and large-scale sand waves (height ∼m) shape the bed of the marine environment. To this end, we present a two-way coupled process-based model of sand waves and tube-building worm patches in Delft3D. The population density evolves according to a general law of logistic growth, with the bed shear stress controlling the carrying capacity. Worm patches are randomly seeded and the tubes are mimicked by small cylinders that influence flow and turbulence, thereby altering sediment dynamics. Model results relate the patches with the highest worm densities to the sand wave troughs, which qualitatively agrees with field observations. Furthermore, the L. conchilegatubes trigger the formation of sandy mounds on the seabed. Because of the population density distribution, the mounds in the troughs can be several centimetres higher than on the crests. Regarding sand wave morphology, the combination of patches and mounds are found to shorten the time-to-equilibrium. Also, if the initial bed comprised small sinusoidal sand waves, the equilibrium wave height decreased with a few decimetres compared to the situation without worm patches. As the timescale of mound formation (years) is shorter than that of sand wave evolution (decades), the mounds induce (and accelerate) sand wave growth on a similar spatial scale to the mounds. Initially, this leads to shorter sand waves than they would be in an abiotic environment. However, near equilibrium the wavelengths tend towards their abiotic counterparts again. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd     

Strong seasonality in sand loading and resulting feedbacks on sediment transport,bed texture,and channel planform at Mount Pinatubo,Philippines

Declining sand inputs to a channel with bimodal bed sediment can lead to degradation, armoring, and reduced bedload transport rates. Where sand loading is episodic, channels may alternate between high‐sand and low‐sand conditions, with ensuing responses in bed texture and bedload transport rates. The effects of episodic sand loading are explored through flow, grain size, and bedload transport measurements on the Pasig‐Potrero River, a sediment‐rich channel draining Mount Pinatubo, Philippines. Sand loading on the Pasig‐Potrero River is highly seasonal, and channel adjustments between seasons are dramatic. In the rainy season, inputs from sand‐rich 1991 eruption deposits lead to active, sand‐bedded, braided channels. In the dry season, many precipitation‐driven sand sources are cut off, leading to incision, armoring, and significantly lower bedload transport rates. This seasonal transition offers an excellent opportunity to examine models of degradation, incision, and armoring as well as the effectiveness of sediment transport models that explicitly encapsulate the importance of sand on transport rates. During the fall 2009 seasonal transition, 7·6 km of channel incised and armored, carving a 2–3 m deep channel on the upper alluvial fan. Bedload transport rates measured in the August 2009 rainy season were over four orders of magnitude greater than gravel‐bedded dry‐season channels surveyed in January 2010, despite having similar shear stress and unit discharge conditions. Within dry‐season incised channels, bed armoring is rapid, leading to an abrupt gravel‐sand transition. Bedload transport rates adjust more slowly, creating a lag between armoring and commensurate reductions in transport. Seasonal channel incision occurred in steps, aided by lateral migration into sand‐rich banks. These lateral sand inputs may increase armor layer mobility, renewing incision, and forming terraces within the incised seasonal channel. The seasonal incised channel is currently being reset by precipitation‐driven sand loading during the next rainy season, and the cycle begins again. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Modelling the impact of a time-varying wave angle on the nonlinear evolution of sand bars in the surf zone

Sandy beaches are often characterized by the presence of sand bars, whose characteristics (growth, migration speed, etc.) strongly depend on offshore wave conditions, such as wave height and angle of wave incidence. This study addresses the impact of a sinusoidally time-varying wave angle of incidence with different time-means on the saturation height, migration speed and longshore spacing of sand bars. Model results show that shore-transverse sand bars (so-called TBR bars) eventually develop under a time-varying wave angle. Depending on the time-mean, amplitude and period of the varying angle of wave incidence, the mean heights and mean migration speeds of the bars can be larger or smaller than their corresponding values in the case of time-invariant angles. Bars might not even form when the wave angle varies around a too large oblique mean value, whereas bars exist in the case of a time-invariant wave angle. The oscillations in both bar height and migration speed are large if the period of the time-varying wave angle is close to the adjustment timescale of the system and if large differences in the local growth and migration rates of the bars occur during one oscillation period. The oscillations in bar height are a combination of harmonics with the principal period and half the period of the time-varying wave angle, whereas those of migration speed contain only the principal period. Bars that are subject to time-varying wave angles have larger longshore crest-to-crest spacings than those which form under fixed wave angles. Physical explanations for these findings are given. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd     

More on the evolution of bed material waves in alluvial rivers

Sediment waves or pulses can form in rivers following variations in input from landslides, debris flows, and other sources. The question as to how rivers cope with such sediment inputs is of considerable practical interest. Experimental, numerical and field evidence assembled by the authors suggests that in mountain gravel‐bed streams, such pulses show relatively little translation, instead mostly dispersing in place. This research has recently been the subject of discussion. In particular it has been suggested that (a) the equations of flow and sediment mass balance used in the analyses, and in most other morphodynamic analyses, require correction; (b) the dominance of dispersion appears only because the hyperbolic nature of the governing equations has not been adequately considered; and (c) the sediment transport equation used in the analyses does not lead to generalizable results. Here we suggest that (a) the relations for mass balance do not require the indicated correction; (b) the hyperbolic nature of the governing equations does not preclude the result of dispersion dominating translation in mountain streams; and (c) the general behaviour of an appropriate hyperbolic model of sediment waves (pulses) includes the relative roles of dispersion and translation, and is not affected by the precise choice of a sediment transport relation (as long as the choice is reasonable for the case in question). Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Wind tunnel investigation of horizontal and vertical sand fluxes of ascending and descending sand particles in aeolian sand transport

The horizontal and vertical sand mass fluxes in aeolian sand transport are investigated in a wind tunnel by PTV (particle tracking velocimetry). According to the particle velocity and volume fraction of each individual particle from PTV images, the total horizontal sand mass flux, the horizontal mass fluxes of ascending and descending sand particles, and upward and downward vertical sand fluxes are analyzed. The results show that the horizontal mass fluxes of ascending and descending sand particles generally decrease with the increase of height and can be described by an exponential function above about 0.03 m height. At the same friction velocity, the decay heights of the total horizontal sand mass flux and the horizontal mass fluxes of ascending and descending sand particles are very similar. The proportion of horizontal mass flux of ascending sand particles is generally about 0.3–0.42, this means the horizontal mass flux of descending sand particles makes an important contribution to the total horizontal sand mass flux. Both the upward and downward vertical sand mass fluxes generally decrease with height and they are approximately equal at the same height and friction velocity. The relation between upward (or downward) vertical sand mass flux and horizontal sand mass flux can be described by a power function. The present study is used to help understand the transport of ascending and descending sand particles. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Grain size dependency in the occurrence of sand waves

Sandy shallow seas, like the North Sea, are very dynamic. Several morphological features are present on the bed, from small ripples to sand waves and large tidal sandbanks. The larger patterns induce significant depth variations that have an impact on human activities taking place in this area. Therefore, it is important to know where these large-scale features occur, what their natural behaviour is and how they interact with human activities. Here, we extend earlier research that compares the results of an idealized model of large-scale seabed patterns with data of seabed patterns in the North Sea. The idealized model is extended with a grain size dependency. The adaptations lead to more accurate predictions of the occurrence of large-scale bed forms in the North Sea. Therefore, grain size dependency and, in particular, critical shear stress are important to explain the occurrence of sand waves and sandbanks in the North Sea. Responsible Editor: Alejandro Souza     

A field experiment on the role of small scale wind gustiness in aeolian sand transport

Estimates of aeolian sand transport generally use an average wind speed to assess the wind energy. To determine if variation in small-scale wind gustiness (on the order of several seconds duration) has a significant effect on sand movement, detailed field measurements were made of wind speed and transport rate. Average wind speed and several gust parameters were derived from the wind data. The results indicate that small-scale gust information does not improve prediction of transport rates.     

Dispersive effects of zonally varying topography on quasigeostrophic Rossby waves

Abstract

Dispersion of linear quasigeostrophic plane waves in a stratified ocean with bottom topography is discussed. Particular emphasis is given to cases for which zonal gradients in the sea floor height are important. As such, the relative importance of the topographic and planetary β-effects is strongly dependent on wave vector orientation. The magnitude of the topographic slopes considered is chosen such that these two effects (topographic and planetary β) are of comparable importance. In the interest of simplicity, stratification is taken to be independent of depth. The eigenvalue problem which must be solved to find the free modes of oscillation has already been treated in the literature (in fact, Charney and Flierl (1981) have treated the effects of a more realistic stratification). The aim of this note is to more fully expose, primarily by example, several dispersive properties of these free wave modes which have been largely overlooked.     

Further perspectives on the evolution of bed material waves in alluvial rivers

In one‐dimensional mathematical models of ?uvial ?ow, sediment transport and morphological evolution, the governing equations based on mass and momentum conservation laws constitute a hyperbolic system. Succinctly, the hyperbolic nature excludes dispersion or diffusion operators, which is well known in the context of differential equations. There is no doubt that the so‐called ‘dispersion’ argument for bed material wave evolution is questionable, as we have explicitly asserted. Surprisingly, in a recent communication, the authors of the ‘dispersion’ argument suggest that dispersion is not precluded in hyperbolic systems. We provide herein further perspectives to help explain that the dispersion argument is neither appropriate nor necessary for interpreting bed material wave evolution. Also the continuity equations involved are addressed to prompt wider understanding of their signi?cance. In particular, the continuity equation of the water–sediment mixture proposed by the authors of the ‘dispersion’ argument is proved to be incorrect, and inevitably their reasoning based on it is problematic. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Evolution of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy

In the present paper the morphodynamics of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy, is analysed by comparing data gathered during two different surveys carried out in 1991 and 2001, respectively. In particular, a morphometric analysis on the most recent data and a qualitative analysis of the differences between bottom bedform patterns, are carried out. At locations characterised by greater depths, only minor changes to the planimetric configuration of the field, i.e. crest orientation (which is seen to be orthogonal to the direction of net gross sand transport) and wave length are observed, while differences in wave length and crest direction are more evident in more shallow areas. On the other hand, wave height has significantly increased in the whole field. A possible explanation of such a change, based on the previsions of a theory which relates sand-wave growth and migration to the main components of the tidal ellipse, is provided.Responsible Editor: Jens Kappenberg