深水斜坡堤胸墙波浪力计算方法研究

通过物理模型试验研究中国《海港水文规范》(JTJ213-98)中斜坡式防波堤顶部胸墙波浪力计算公式在深水情况下的适用性.试验测量4种不同水深波浪作用下斜坡堤顶部胸墙的波浪力和作用高度.通过对胸墙迎浪面的波浪压强分布、总水平作用力和波浪作用高度的试验结果与《海港水文规范》结果的对比分析,发现胸墙迎浪面的实测波压分布不同于规范采用的均匀分布;规范计算得到的总水平力和波浪作用高度均小于实测值.本文改进规范中斜坡堤胸墙波浪力计算方法,使其更适用于深水堤顶部胸墙受力计算.     

扭王字块体护面斜坡堤胸墙受力试验研究

现行规范中未就扭王字块体护面斜波堤胸墙水平波浪力的计算方法做出具体规定,造成工程设计时使用不便。为解决上述问题,通过物模试验分析在波陡等六种因素的影响下,扭王字块体护面斜波堤胸墙水平波浪力的变化趋势。同时运用非线性拟合方法,遵循π定理,给出斜坡堤在扭王字块体条件下胸墙水平波浪力的计算公式。并对计算公式进行有效验证,该公式具有较好的精确性与适用性。研究成果丰富了规范内容,并为斜坡堤工程设计中胸墙水平波浪力折减系数的合理取值提供了参考依据。此研究成果对于斜坡堤科学研究领域和工程设计领域,都具有很大的参考价值。     

深水斜坡堤胸墙波浪力研究进展

总结了近年来在斜坡堤胸墙前波浪破碎形态、波浪作用分布、胸墙受力设计等方面研究的进展,分析了斜坡堤上胸墙波浪力的计算方法。已有研究工作表明,深水情况下斜坡堤胸墙波浪作用分布与传统的均布形式有差异,《海港水文规范》中关于斜坡堤胸墙波浪力的计算方法在深水中的适用性应进一步研究。     

斜坡堤胸墙波压力的试验与分析

通过断面物理模型试验,获得了斜坡堤堤顶胸墙在肩宽B不同工况组合下,承受水平波浪力、底部浮托力的大量数据。对这些数据进行了分析,得出了斜坡堤堤顶胸墙波压力随肩宽B的变化规律。     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力的影响因素

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式4种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点,获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和,得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高、相对波长、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。结果表明,相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著;波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大、后减小、再增大的变化趋势;波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力影响因素的试验与分析

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式四种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高(H/d)、相对波长(L/d)、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。试验结果表明：相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著。波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大—后减小—再增大的变化趋势。波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

不同型式斜坡堤弧形胸墙波浪压力的试验研究

本研究设计前仰式、深弧式和后仰式3种弧形胸墙以及直立式胸墙进行物理模型试验,通过安装在胸墙迎浪面上的压力传感器测量所受波浪压力,讨论不同型式斜坡堤弧形胸墙迎浪面所受波浪压力的分布规律及其影响因素。试验结果表明:弧形胸墙迎浪面所受波浪压力随着测点高程的增大呈现振荡减小的变化趋势,最大值出现在弧顶处。随着入射波周期的增大呈现先增大后减小再增大的变化趋势。相同波浪要素条件下,斜坡堤弧形胸墙波浪压力大于直立式胸墙波浪压力;而在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,后仰式胸墙波浪压力较前仰式和深弧式的大。     

扭王字块体护面斜坡堤越浪量试验研究

针对现行规范中缺少扭王字块体护面斜坡堤越浪量的计算方法,考虑波陡、相对水深、相对堤顶超高、相对坡肩宽度、相对胸墙高度和相对块体尺寸等影响因素,通过波浪水槽物模试验,运用多元回归方法,给出了扭王字块体斜坡堤越浪量中护面结构影响系数和平均越浪量的计算公式。与试验值和其它计算公式进行了验证对比,结果基本吻合,具有一致性的规律。研究成果丰富了规范内容,对斜坡堤工程设计具有重要参考意义。     

不同掩护程度弧形胸墙波压力及越浪量试验研究

为了明确斜坡堤弧形胸墙越浪量及波压力的变化规律,采用波浪水槽试验测量了弧形胸墙的越浪量和波压力。试验从斜坡堤弧形胸墙前的掩护程度等因素入手对弧形胸墙的返浪效果及波压力进行初步研究,得出不同掩护程度弧形胸墙的越浪量及波压力,发现掩护程度越好,弧形胸墙所受波压力越小;半掩护情况下越浪量最小,为实际工程设计提供了依据。     

波浪周期对防波堤护面块体稳定性影响的试验分析

波浪对斜坡堤护面结构的冲刷破坏作用受诸多因素的影响,如波浪要素、水深条件、坡面角度、护面块体型式等。在进行某项有关斜坡堤护面块体的课题研究中发现,当防波堤断面结构确定后,护面人工块体的稳定性主要取决于波高及波周期的变化。在进行这方面内容设计计算中,通常波高的取值都能给予足够的重视,但波周期对护面块体稳定性的影响容易被忽视。本研究通过物理模型试验,针对波浪周期对斜坡堤护面块体稳定性的影响进行了总结分析,为防波堤设计提供参考。     

Viscosity and nonlinearity effects on the forces and waves generated by a floating twin hull under heave oscillation

Nonlinear hydrodynamics of a twin rectangular hull under heave oscillation is analyzed using numerical methods. Two-dimensional nonlinear time-domain solutions to both inviscid and viscous problems are obtained and the results are compared with linear, inviscid frequency-domain results obtained in [26] to quantify nonlinear and viscous effects. Finite-difference methods based on boundary-fitted coordinates are used for solving the governing equations in the time domain [2]. A primitive-variables based projection method [6] is used for the viscous analysis and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [11] for inviscid analysis. The algorithms are validated and the order of accuracy determined by comparing the results obtained from the present algorithm with the experimental results of Vugt [22] for a heaving rectangle in the free surface. The present study on the twin-hull hydrodynamics shows that at large and non-resonant regular frequencies, and small amplitude of body oscillation, the fluid viscosity does not significantly affect the wave motion and the radiation forces. At low frequencies however the viscosity effect is found to be significant even for small amplitude of body oscillation. In particular, the hydrodynamic force obtained from the nonlinear viscous analysis is found to be closer to the linear inviscid force than the nonlinear inviscid force to the linear inviscid force, the reason for which is attributed to the wave dampening effect of viscosity. Since the wave lengths generated at smaller frequencies of oscillation are longer and therefore the waves could have a more significant effect on the dynamic pressure on the bottom of the hulls which contribute to the heave force, the correlation between the heave force and the wave elevation is found to be larger at smaller frequencies. Because of nonlinearity, the wave radiation and wave damping force remained nonzero even at and around the resonant frequencies – with the resonant frequencies as determined in [26] using linear potential flow theory. As to be expected, the nonlinear effect on the wave force is found to be significant at all frequencies for large amplitude of oscillation compared to the hull draft. The effect of viscosity on the force, by flow separation, is also found to be significant for large amplitude of body oscillation.     

西北航道夏季气旋登陆期间海冰对波浪的影响

西北航道是指从北大西洋经加拿大北极群岛进入北冰洋,再进入太平洋的航道,是连接大西洋和太平洋的捷径。为了探讨西北航道通航期极端天气条件下强风及海冰对波浪场的影响机制,建立并验证了考虑海冰影响下的西北航道风浪演化模型,并以2012年8月北极气旋登陆期间为例探讨西北航道通航期波浪特性及波能流密度的时空演化及其对风和海冰的响应。研究结果表明,北极夏季海冰大多分布于西北航道以北海域,而风向大部分集中在SSW(南偏西22.5°)至SW(南偏西45°),西北航道海冰的存在并不会引起有效风区的明显减少,也不会引起无冰海域波能流的明显减小(不超过5%)。但是,当风向变为北向风时,无冰海域波能流减小幅度最多高达62%。最后,综合海冰和波浪要素的时空分布,提出了极端天气条件下西北航道通航期的最佳适航路线,为西北航道的夏季安全通航提供了科学依据。     

Calculating the Wave Force on Partially Immersed Large-Scale Horizontal Cylinders

Large-scale interceptors constitute the main structure of offshore self-driven floating marine litter collection devices,and the structural stability of such interceptors under the action of waves directly influences the overall safety of the device.When the ratio of the diameter of a horizontal cylinder in such interceptors to the incident wavelength is larger than 0.25,the wave force can be calculated by using the diffraction theory,by considering the problem as that of the interaction between the waves and a partially immersed large-scale horizontal cylinder.In this study,an analytical approach to calculate the wave force on a partially immersed large-scale horizontal cylinder was formulated by using the stepwise approximation method.Physical model tests were conducted to investigate the effects of different factors(wave height,period,and immersion depth)on the wave force on a large-scale horizontal cylinder under conditions involving short-period waves.The results show that both horizontal and vertical wave forces on the cylinder increase as the wave height(immersion depth)increases in most cases.The vertical wave force decreases with the decrease of the period.For the horizontal wave force,it increases with the decrease of the period when the wavelength is larger than the diameter of the cylinder and decreases with the decrease of the period when the wavelength is smaller than the diameter of the cylinder.     

大洋波浪特征：西太平洋波浪调查研究报告

本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布,以及波谱的分析。分析结果指出,大洋波浪的波高和周期都大于近海波浪的波高和周期。分布特征也不同于近海。波浪多属混合浪,会出现典型的双峰谱。     

Numerical study of nonlinear freak wave impact underneath a fixed horizontal deck in 2-D space

Freak waves are extreme and unexpected surface waves with huge wave heights that may lead to severe damage to ships and offshore structures. However, few researches have been conducted to investigate the impact underneath fixed horizontal decks caused by freak waves. To study these phenomena, a 2-D numerical wave tank is built in which nonlinear freak waves based on the Peregrine breather solution are generated. As a validation, a regular-wave-induced underneath impact is simulated and compared to the existing experimental measurements. Then the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact is investigate with different values of deck clearance above the mean free surface. In addition, a comparative simulation of a “large” regular wave based on the 2nd-order Stokes wave theory with the same crest height and wave length of the nonlinear freak wave is carried out to reveal the unique features of the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact. By applying a fluid–structure interaction (FSI) algorithm in which the bottom deck and front side wall are simplified as Euler beams in 2-D and discretized by the finite element method (FEM), the hydroelastic effects are considered during the impact event. The vertical force acting underneath the bottom deck, the transversal force acting on the front side wall, the structural displacements of the elastic deck and wall are analyzed and discussed respectively, from which meaningful conclusions are drawn.     

Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves Cause a Force and a Torque on the Bottom

Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium.     

Exact solution and approximate solution of irregular wave radiation stress for non-breaking wave

Wave radiation stress is the main driving force of wave-induced near-shore currents. It is directly related to the hydrodynamic characteristics of near-shore current whether the calculation of wave radiation stress is accurate or not. Irregular waves are more capable of reacting wave motion in the ocean compared to regular waves.Therefore, the calculation of the radiation stress under irregular waves will be more able to reflect the wave driving force in the actual near-shore current. Exact solution and approximate solution of the irregular wave radiation stress are derived in this paper and the two kinds of calculation methods are compared. On the basis of this, the experimental results are used to further verify the calculation of wave energy in the approximate calculation method. The results show that the approximate calculation method of irregular wave radiation stress has a good accuracy under the condition of narrow-band spectrum, which can save a lot of computing time, and thus improve the efficiency of calculation. However, the exact calculation method can more accurately reflect the fluctuation of radiation stress at each moment and each location.     

Momentum balance in shoaling gravity waves: Comment on ’shoaling surface gravity waves cause a force and a torque on the bottom’ by K. E. Kenyon

In a recent paper, Kenyon (2004) proposed that the wave-induced energy flux is generally not conserved, and that shoaling waves cause a mean force and torque on the bottom. That force was equated to the divergence of the wave momentum flux estimated from the assumption that the wave-induced mass flux is conserved. This assumption and conclusions are contrary to a wide body of observations and theory. Most importantly, waves propagate in water, so that the momentum balance generally involves the mean water flow. Although the expression for the non-hydrostatic bottom force given by Kenyon is not supported by observations, a consistent review of existing theory shows that a smaller mean wave-induced force must be present in cases with bottom friction or wave reflection. That force exactly balances the change in wave momentum flux due to bottom friction and the exchange of wave momentum between incident and reflected wave components. The remainder of the wave momentum flux divergence, due to shoaling or wave breaking, is compensated by the mean flow, with a balance involving hydrostatic pressure forces that arise from a change in mean surface elevation that is very well verified by observations.     

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的理论与试验研究

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤具有低反射、结构受力小、适宜较大水深和工程造价低等优点。为明确双消浪室局部开孔沉箱水动力特性的主要影响因素,采用理论分析和物理模型试验相结合的方法,对规则波和不规则波作用下双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行研究。基于势流理论,建立规则波和不规则波对局部开孔沉箱防波堤作用的三维解析解,采用二次压力损失边界条件考虑沉箱开孔墙对波浪运动的影响,利用周期性边界条件考虑防波堤结构沿长度方向的周期性变化。开展相应规则波和不规则波物理模型试验,验证理论模型的合理性。通过算例分析,研究不同波浪要素和结构参数对防波堤反射特性的影响。研究表明:双消浪室局部开孔沉箱相对消浪室宽度取值为0.08~0.20,沉箱前墙开孔率大于后墙开孔率时,防波堤在较大波浪频率范围内消波效果显著;当前后墙的开孔率相等时,防波堤反射系数的最小值随着开孔率增大而减小。