结合抛物型缓坡方程计算波浪辐射应力

将波浪辐射应力与抛物型缓坡方程中的待求变量联系起来,提出了一种计算辐射应力的新方法,并用有限差分法对控制方程进行了数值求解。数值结果表明这种方法精度高、编程简单、求解快速,可用于实际大区域波浪辐射应力的计算。     

关于波浪缓坡方程的研究

缓坡方程（ｍｉｌｄ－ｓｌｏｐｅ ｅｑｕａｔｉｏｎ）是基于线性波浪理论研究波浪在近岸传播变形（折射绕射）的基础和被广泛应用的方程。从缓坡方程问世到现在,人们对它进行了大量的理论和应用研究,包括求解该方法、简化近似和改进。本文对有关波浪缓坡方程的研究成果进行了较为系统的归纳总结和评述,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用。     

基于改进缓坡方程的波浪传播数值模拟

用变分原理导出考虑底坡一阶导数平方项和二阶曲率项影响的缓坡方程,对传统缓坡方程作了改进,提高波浪在海底地形变化剧烈、水深较浅时数值模拟精度。数值计算与已有实验室试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟有剧烈变化的海底地形的波浪传播,比传统缓坡方程模型计算结果在精度上有明显提高。     

考虑风能输入的抛物型缓坡方程

在Radder和Kirby发展的波浪折射绕射缓坡方程抛物型模型基础上,对这种模型进行了改进,改进后的模型除可以考虑波浪传播过程中的底摩阻损耗、非线性作用外,加入了风能输入对波浪传播的影响。基于风能输入项的波浪模型数值计算结果表明,在纯风浪情况下的计算结果与传统的风浪计算方法结果一致,在波浪传播过程中由于风的作用,将导致波高比无风作用下计算的波高大。     

广义曲线网格下的缓坡方程数值模型的建立及验证

采用一个综合考虑地形、背景流、摩擦耗散的Ebersole型缓坡方程，变换为广义曲线坐标形式，建立了相应的计算模型。利用双曲地形波浪传播进行验证，设计了长江口深水航道区域与地形相符的曲线网格，并作了该地区波浪的计算检验。结果表明，该模型不仅大大减少了计算量，更增加了计算的稳定度，是一个实用的计算模型。     

用抛物型方程求解波浪折射的数值计算

据微幅波理论导出的波动方程是椭圆型的，数值计算比较复杂，但若以抛物型方程近似取代椭圆型的波方程，那么数值计算将会简单得多。本文将就抛物型方程建立波浪折射的数值计算模型式。     

基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟近岸植被区波浪传播

植被对波浪传播运动有重要影响。考虑近岸波浪在植被区传播中的折射、绕射、破碎及植被引起的波能耗损效应,基于抛物型缓坡方程建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数学模型,对模型进行了数值模拟验证,采用数值模拟试验分析了植被对波浪传播的影响。数值模拟结果表明,波浪在近岸植被区传播时,随着植被密度和植被高度的增加,波浪传播中的波高衰减增大,波能耗损增加;不同周期波浪在植被区传播中的波高衰减过程也明显不同。     

一个新的非恒定型不规则波缓坡方程

缓坡方程由Ｂｅｒｋｈｏｆ所推导并在规则波折射绕射问题的研究上有着广泛的应用。然而对于不规则波折射绕射问题研究，缓坡方程还处于发展研究阶段，本文采用Ｐａｄｅ近似并仿Ｋｕｂｏ方法对缓坡波动方程进行了推导，得到了一个含有时间高阶导数项的不规则波缓坡方程，随即采用ＷＫＢ方法对这个不规则波的缓坡方程进行了简化，推导出一个较为实用的含有一阶时间导数的不规则波缓坡的波动方程。通过数值手段对所推导的不规则波缓坡方程进行了数值模拟，其结果与物模实验较为一致     

适于模拟不规则水域波浪的缓坡方程两种数值模型比较

本文分析比较了适于不规则水域波浪模拟的椭圆型缓坡方程两种数值模型。两种数值模型均采用有限体积法离散,分别基于四叉树网格和非结构化三角形网格建立。首先结合近岸缓坡地形上波浪传播的经典物理模型实验对两种数值模型分别进行了验证,并结合计算结果对比分析了两种模型的计算精度和效率。计算结果表明,两种数值模型均可有效地模拟近岸波浪的传播变形;相对非结构化三角形网格下的模型,基于四叉树网格建立的数值模型在数值离散和求解过程中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,离散简单,易于程序实现,且节约计算存储空间,计算效率高。     

港池泊稳的能量平衡方程数值模拟

对基于能量平衡方程的多向随机波浪传播数学模型进行改进,通过模拟不同防波堤绕射引起的港池泊稳,验证模型的合理性和有效性。利用非线性弥散关系提高模型计算浅水变形的精度;采用二次逆风差分格式离散控制方程,避免了加入绕射项引起的数值耗散;并将文氏谱加入模型中,使其更加适合中国海域的工程应用。应用改进后模型绘制的双突堤和岛式防波堤绕射系数图与我国《海港水文规范》图进行了对比。对比结果十分接近,可以较好地描述港池的泊稳状况,为综合计算波浪在近岸的浅水变形、折射、绕射、反射和能量耗散等作用奠定了基础。     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.     

非结构化网格下椭圆型缓坡方程的数值求解

椭圆型缓坡方程是一种用线性波浪理论研究近岸波浪传播变形的有效波浪数学模型。非结构化网格下的有限容积法不仅对复杂边界的适应性好,还能保证迭代求解过程的守恒性。建立了非结构化网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型。在模型中采用非结构化网格下的有限容积法对椭圆型缓坡方程进行了数值离散,结合GPBiCG(m,n)算法求解离散方程。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可有效地用于模拟近岸缓坡区域复杂边界下波浪的传播。     

Tide simulation using the mild-slope equation with Coriolis force and bottom friction

Since the mild-slope equation was derived by Berkhoff (1972),the researchers considered various mechanism to simplify and improve the equation,which has been widely used for coastal wave field calculation.Recently,some scholars applied the mild-slope equation in simulating the tidal motion,which proves that the equation is capable to calculate the tide in actual terrain.But in their studies,they made a lot of simplifications,and did not consider the effects of Coriolis force and bottom friction on tidal wave.In this paper,the first-order linear mild-slope equations are deduced from Kirby mild-slope equation including wave and current interaction.Then,referring to the method of wave equations’ modification,the Coriolis force and bottom friction term are considered,and the effects of which have been performed with the radial sand ridges topography.Finally,the results show that the modified mild-slope equation can be used to simulate tidal motion,and the calculations agree well with the measurements,thus the applicability and validity of the mild-slope equation on tidal simulation are further proved.     

A parabolic equation extended to account for rapidly varying topography

In this paper, following the procedure outlined by Li (1994. An evolution equation for water waves. Coastal Engineering, 23, 227-242) and Hsu and Wen (2000. A study of using parabolic model to describe wave breaking and wide-angle wave incidence. Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers, 23(4), 515–527) and Hsu and Wen (2000) the extended refraction–diffraction equation is recasted into a time-dependent parabolic equation. This model, which includes higher-order bottom effect terms, is extended to account for a rapidly varying topography and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. The importance of the higher-order bottom effect terms is examined in terms of the relative water depth. The present model was tested for wave reflection in a number of different environments, namely from a plane slope with different inclinations, from a patch of periodic ripples. The model was also tested for wave height distribution around a circular shoal and wave breaking on a barred beach. The comparison of predictions with other numerical models and experimental data show that the validity of the present model for describing wave propagation over a rapidly varying seabed is satisfactory.     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.